{"title":"Interior \u0026 leather by Dr. Wack","description":null,"products":[{"product_id":"dr-wack-a1-all-in-one-innenraumreiniger-glasreiniger","title":"A1 \"ALL in ONE\" Interior \u0026 Glass Cleaner","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eA1 ALL in ONE Interior \u0026amp; Glass Cleaner does the dash and the glass without leaving streaks\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is the A1 ALL in ONE Interior \u0026amp; Glass Cleaner? A ready-to-use interior cleaner from Dr. Wack, set slightly acidic at pH 5.5, that works on glass, screens, dash, fabric, Alcantara, leather and piano black. Not a degreaser for heavy grease films, and no substitute for a dedicated upholstery cleaner.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA1 ALL in ONE Interior \u0026amp; Glass Cleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e is a ready-to-use interior cleaner from Dr. Wack that pulls eight material groups onto a single approval list: glass inside and out, screens, plastic and dash, fabric and upholstery, Alcantara, leather and synthetic leather, paint and piano black, plus vinyl. Nothing gets diluted and there is no dwell time. The cloth does the dosing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThere are six different materials between the steering wheel and the windscreen, and every one of them reacts differently to the same cleaner. An alkaline all-purpose cleaner gets the footwell clean and, over time, eats into the topcoat on a leather seat back. On glass it leaves exactly the haze you set out to wipe off. That is why three bottles stand side by side in so many boots, all-purpose cleaner, glass cleaner and plastic dressing, and why the interior still gets left longer than the paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhy one bottle is enough here is on the safety data sheet, not on the front label: pH 5.5 at 20 °C, measured to DIN 19268. That sits slightly on the acidic side, roughly where shower gel is set, and so on the other side of neutral from the alkaline all-purpose cleaners the scene calls APC. For you that means the same bottle that just did the side window can go onto the leather seat bolster without a second thought.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDr. Wack names two additives outright: an antistatic finish and a built-in odour killer. Antistatic means the ultra-thin layer left behind bleeds off the charge that builds on plastic while you wipe. Without it, a freshly wiped dashboard pulls dust in like a balloon you have just rubbed on your sleeve. Day-to-day: the dash dusts over later instead of straight away. There is no number on the effect, though, since neither the manufacturer's page nor the data sheet commits to a figure.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEight material groups on one approval list.\u003c\/strong\u003e Glass inside and out, screens, plastic and dash, fabric and upholstery, Alcantara, leather and synthetic leather, paint and piano black, vinyl. Reading the label before you touch the next surface drops out of the job for the whole cabin. The outside glass is explicitly on the list too, which is rare for an interior cleaner.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003epH 5.5 instead of alkaline.\u003c\/strong\u003e The safety data sheet quotes 5.5 plus\/minus 0.2 at 20 °C to DIN 19268. Slightly acidic rather than alkaline is why leather, Alcantara and piano black are allowed on the same list as the glass. And it is the same reason the product is not a degreaser.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThree sizes, three jobs.\u003c\/strong\u003e 100 ml for the glovebox, 500 ml with a trigger head for the shelf, 750 ml as the Limited Edition 2025. Per litre, the 750 ml bottle works out at less than a third of the 100 ml one. With the small bottle you pay for where it fits, not for what is in it.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e What we see a lot is Alcantara getting treated like ordinary cloth: spray it on, scrub hard, done. Dr. Wack specifies the opposite for Alcantara, namely straight onto the spot, no dwell time, light pressure, no rubbing. The reason is mechanical: scrub it and the pile of the microfibre suede lies down one way and picks up shiny patches that no cleaner brings back. Work in dabs, turn the cloth often, and lift the pile again at the end by going across it with the dry side.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eOnly the glass gets sprayed directly, everything else goes through the cloth\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThree groups of surface, three ways to spray: glass takes the jet, plastic and screens take it via the cloth, fabric gets it spot-on onto the mark.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe bottle wants a shake before the first pull of the trigger, and the nozzle has to be turned from Stop to Spray. For the glass you spray straight onto the pane, clean with a waffle-weave or glass cloth, then run a dry side of the cloth over the already dry pane. That second, dry pass is what decides whether you get streaks, and it is the one people skip most often.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eScreens, dash, piano black and painted trim never get the product straight on. There you spray into the microfibre cloth and work the surface with that, following up with a dry side if it needs it. The reason is not the chemistry, it is the seam: overspray that lands on a screen runs into the gap between glass and trim and sits there, where you can no longer reach it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFabric, upholstery and Alcantara are the third case. Here the product goes straight onto the dirty spot again, no dwell time and light pressure, because you want the loosened mark to travel up out of the weave into the cloth and not deeper in. On Alcantara the rule from the tip above applies on top of that.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhether the glass ends up streak-free comes down to the pile and to whatever was in that cloth before. Dr. Wack puts its own \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/dr-wack-a1-all-in-one-mikrofasertuch-mikrofasertuch\"\u003emicrofibre cloth\u003c\/a\u003e alongside the product, matched to the way it works and with overlocked edges so nothing scratches on screens or piano black. Still keep your cloths sorted by surface: one that has seen plastic dressing carries silicone into the glass and wrecks every dry pass you make.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe order inside the car sounds obvious and still gets done wrong: headliner and dash first, then door cards, then seats, glass last. Start with the windscreen and you wipe it twice, because dusting the dashboard puts dust and overspray straight back onto it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-all-in-one-innenraumreiniger-glasreiniger_anwendung.jpg?v=1787867745\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"A1 ALL in ONE Interior \u0026amp; Glass Cleaner being sprayed onto the microfibre cloth in front of the steering wheel\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eGrease films and old upholstery stains are not its patch\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe cleaner works with no dwell time, and whatever does not go into solution in that second will not come off on the third wipe either.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003epH 5.5 is the strength of this product and its limit at the same time. A film of smoke, chip fat or years of hand sweat on the centre console needs an alkaline cleaner that turns the fatty acids into soap and makes them water-soluble. A slightly acidic interior cleaner cannot do that, however many passes you make. If the cloth still comes up brown after the third pass, it is the wrong cleaner and not too little pressure.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe second blind spot is the upholstery. Fresh coffee on a seat comes away cleanly with the Interior \u0026amp; Glass Cleaner. A stain that has sat in the weave for three weeks needs dwell time, foam and a tool with bristles. For that, the same line carries the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/dr-wack-a1-polster-alcantara-reiniger-pro-textilreiniger\"\u003eupholstery and Alcantara cleaner\u003c\/a\u003e as the specialist. Fresh, take the all-rounder. Dried in, take the specialist.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe third limit sits in the word cleaner. Cleaning and conditioning are two steps, and this product only does the first. On leather it lifts the hand grime off the topcoat but gives back neither suppleness nor protection, and on plastic it leaves no care layer with UV protection. If you want deep black on the dashboard after the wipe, you need a plastic dressing afterwards.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe fourth limit is on the glass. As a glass cleaner the product gets the pane clean and streak-free, it does not seal it. Nothing repels water afterwards, there is no beading and no rain-repellent effect, that is a glass sealant's job. The approval for outside glass means cleaning: bug splatter that has stood in the sun for two days is still a case for a bug remover.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe fifth limit is not a material limit but a handling one, and it is up in the tip above. That leaves the honest frame: eight material groups, mild chemistry, no heavy lifting. A decathlete does not win the 100 metres, and that is exactly what this product is inside the car.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eDo the interior every couple of weeks and you do not need five bottles\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs an interior cleaner the product earns its place with anyone who does the cabin regularly in one pass and does not want to swap between four bottles while doing it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt makes less sense if you set aside one deep clean a year. What you are missing then is a vacuum first and a cleaner with dwell time second, not an all-rounder. And if you detail for a living, a concentrate plus your own fabric chemistry gets you further for less.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDr. Wack splits the sizes cleanly. The 500 ml bottle with the trigger head is the version for the shelf, the 750 ml of the Limited Edition 2025 is the same formula with more in it. The safety data sheet for the A1 ALL in ONE Interior \u0026amp; Glass Cleaner lists all three part numbers together. The 100 ml bottle is not a budget version, it is a decision about where it lives: glovebox, company car, fingerprint on the screen before a meeting.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn the shelf the product stands between two camps. On one side the alkaline all-purpose cleaners, which have more power and ask for more care. On the other the specialists for one surface each, from a pure glass cleaner to a fabric foam. What else is lined up next to it is in the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/collections\/innenraumreiniger\"\u003einterior cleaner\u003c\/a\u003e category. This product is the answer there to the question about the one bottle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn storage the safety data sheet says two things: keep it from freezing and store it away from food. So the 100 ml bottle belongs in the glovebox and not in an unheated store room over winter. The product is built in Baar-Ebenhausen, where Dr. Wack has had development, production and logistics on one site since the 2024 new build.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe trick no manufacturer writes down costs nothing and saves you the second lap: wipe the glass horizontally on the inside and vertically on the outside. If a streak is left standing, its direction tells you which side it is on. Horizontal means inside, vertical means outside. Because this product is approved for both sides, you make both passes with the same bottle and do not have to guess while you walk round the car three times.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-all-in-one-innenraumreiniger-glasreiniger_anwendung_2.jpg?v=1787867749\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"Bottle of A1 ALL in ONE Interior \u0026amp; Glass Cleaner next to the folded microfibre cloth inside the car\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"A1\"","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":54707180208463,"sku":"D1-DRW-2570","price":13.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"100 ml","offer_id":58584739119439,"sku":"D1-DRW-2571","price":6.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"750 ml (Limited Edition 2025)","offer_id":54731389632847,"sku":"D1-DRW-2573","price":15.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-all-in-one-innenraumreiniger-glasreiniger.png?v=1787867102"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-a1-cabrio-verdeck-impraegnierer-textilimpraegnierung","title":"A1 Cabrio \"Verdeck-Imprägnierer\" Fabric waterproofing","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eDr. Wack A1 Cabrio \"Convertible Top Waterproofer\" makes fabric tops water-repellent and allows them to breathe\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is the Dr. Wack A1 Cabrio \"Convertible Top Waterproofer\"? A 400 ml aerosol waterproofing spray for textile convertible tops made of cotton blends, acrylic, or Dralon. It does not clean, it does not re-dye, and it is explicitly not intended for tops made of soft PVC, vinyl, or synthetic leather.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDr. Wack A1 Cabrio \"Convertible Top Waterproofer\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is a textile waterproofing agent from Dr. Wack that coats individual threads rather than forming a skin over the fabric. The manufacturer describes it as follows: the active ingredients wrap around each fiber and, as they dry, stand upright like many tiny umbrellas side by side. The fabric remains open between these umbrellas.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat is the whole difference between waterproofing and sealing. A tarp holds back water because it has no holes. A waterproofed convertible top holds back water because the water no longer wants to wet the fiber: it contracts into a bead with a surface tension of about 72 mN\/m and finds no hold to spread out on the low-energy fiber surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor you, this means: the gaps in the fabric remain open, allowing air and water vapor to continue passing through. A top that is instead covered with a closed film may keep the rain out, but it also traps moisture inside. Anyone who has ever slept under a plastic tarp knows the result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\n\u003cstrong\u003eTest winner with measurement protocol.\u003c\/strong\u003e In 2020, KÜS, AUTO BILD, and AUTO BILD Klassik tested ten convertible top waterproofers in a chemical laboratory on identical black top fabric, measuring water repellency over ten cycles on a spray rating tester. The A1 was the only one to receive the rating \"highly recommended\": water and oil-repellent, residue-free, and easy to apply. Five of the ten products failed.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\n\u003cstrong\u003eOil bounces off, not just rain.\u003c\/strong\u003e Oil repellency was tested in the same study using oils with surface tensions similar to tree resins. In practical terms, this means that resin, bird droppings, and road film have a harder time sticking, and you don't have to reach for a sponge and foam as often on a fabric that Dr. Wack itself certifies as having low abrasion resistance.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\n\u003cstrong\u003e400 ml, PFAS-free, not just for cars.\u003c\/strong\u003e Dr. Wack lists the current formula as 100 percent PFAS-free. The can is also approved for awnings, tents, and textile clothing—the items in the same garage as your convertible that need the same moisture protection.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eExpert tip from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e From our experience, one specific process primarily costs you performance: spraying the top in the sun because it dries faster there. Dr. Wack writes the exact opposite in its own care tips. It should be sprayed in a cool, shaded area. Only when the top is well-ventilated should the car be moved into the sun, as the heat facilitates the standing up of the active ingredients. Application takes less than 10 minutes per layer. The sun does the actual work afterward.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSeveral thin layers beat one heavy application\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eShake the can, spray thinly and evenly from a distance of about 20 centimeters, let it flash off, then apply a second thin layer, taking care not to go over already treated areas intentionally.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe reason lies in the mechanics. The active ingredients need to stand up while drying, and for that, they need space and air at the fiber level. Anyone who saturates the surface until it shines causes the product to clump together instead of standing up. Dr. Wack frames this as a prohibition: avoid soaking the sprayed surfaces; it is better to spray thinly several times and allow the product time to dry in between.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBefore the first spray, it is decided whether it will hold at all. The top must be clean and completely dry; otherwise, the waterproofing will sit on the dirt instead of the fiber. Surfactant residues are even more treacherous than dirt: the manufacturer explicitly writes that detergent residues prevent any waterproofing effect. After using the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/dr-wack-a1-cabrio-verdeck-reiniger-cabrioverdeckreiniger\"\u003eConvertible Top Cleaner\u003c\/a\u003e, rinse until the runoff water remains clear and no white bubbles form anywhere. Afterward, the fabric needs time to dry thoroughly down to the underlayer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eEverything that is not textile must be covered. According to the manufacturer, glass, plastic windows, and paint surfaces should neither be sprayed nor exposed to spray mist. A strip of masking tape along the edge of the top and an old sheet over the rear window are sufficient. Work outdoors in the shade, not on a heated surface or in direct sunlight.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe sequence on the surface itself is unspectacular but important: work in strips, overlapping, from one side to the other. A top is an inclined surface, and a spray jet that dwells on one spot for too long will accumulate into a trickle. Evenly here means: at a constant speed, a constant 20 cm distance, and no dwelling.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSoft PVC is the limit for this waterproofer\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAccording to the manufacturer, this product is not suitable for tops made of soft PVC, vinyl, or synthetic leather; a plastic deep-care product should be used there instead. This is not a matter of preference, but a matter of material.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSoft PVC has no fibers to coat. It is a solid layer that consists of about 40 percent plasticizers, which keep the plastic elastic. If these escape due to UV radiation and weathering, the material becomes brittle and the embedded pigments are destroyed. A vinyl top therefore needs a replenishment of plasticizers, not a water repellent. This is exactly what the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/dr-wack-a1-kunststoff-tiefenpfleger-kunststoffpflege-glaenzend\"\u003ePlastic Deep-Care Agent\u003c\/a\u003e provides.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe test for this is tactile and takes five seconds. If the top feels like fabric, with a visible weave structure and a rough, soft surface, it is textile and this spray is the right choice. If it feels like a smooth, closed film, you are dealing with soft PVC.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe second limit concerns color. The integrated UV protection prevents fading of the top fabric with regular use, but it does not reverse existing fading. Whatever pigment was lost on the sunny side over five summers remains lost. The spray secures today's condition; it cannot buy back what was lost yesterday.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnd a note regarding the formulation: repelling oil without fluorine chemistry is the harder part of this task, as fluorine compounds were the easy way for decades. The fact that today's formula is, according to Dr. Wack, free of PFAS and still led in oil repellency in lab tests is the result of the work done in Baar-Ebenhausen.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eA factory-new top still shows its beading on its own\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eModern top fabrics come waterproofed from the factory, and as long as raindrops remain as beads on them, you simply do not need this can yet.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt is needed where the elements are constantly pressing on the fabric: for a convertible that stays outside or under trees, for a year-round vehicle, or for a car without a garage during the winter. Top fabrics like the three-layer Sonnenland material with Dralon outer fabric, which BMW, Mercedes, and Porsche install as standard, last for many years like new. But you only get those years with proper care.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnyone who regularly takes their convertible through a car wash should not confuse things: a wax program there is a paint product and works on a smooth, closed surface. A textile top is the opposite of that, and it remains just as unprotected after the wash as it was when it went in.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne 400 ml can covers more than one top. Because the same can is approved for awnings, tents, and textile clothing, the rest won't end up on the shelf, but on the patio awning. If you are looking for the right products for the complete process, you will find cleaners and waterproofers side by side in the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/collections\/dr-wack-cabrio-verdeck\"\u003eConvertible Top Care\u003c\/a\u003e section.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe question remains when to reapply, and the top itself answers that. There is an intermediate stage between \"holding\" and \"no longer holding,\" and that is your actual deadline. Freshly waterproofed, the droplets sit as round beads on the fabric; that is beading.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen the effect wears off, the beads fall flat and run off as a continuous film. The scene calls this \"sheeting,\" and on a convertible top, it is a yellow card. Only after that comes the dark, matte spot that remains, which means: the water is sitting inside the fiber.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe difference between the two points in time is a whole extra step. Those who reapply during sheeting spray onto a clean, dry top and are done in half an hour. Those who wait until the dark spot appears must clean it again first, thus introducing exactly the mechanical stress to the fabric that the waterproofing was supposed to save it from in the first place.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"A1\"","offers":[{"title":"400 ml","offer_id":54707182043471,"sku":"D1-DRW-2525","price":16.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-cabrio-verdeck-impraegnierer-textilimpraegnierung.png?v=1787867160"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-a1-cabrio-verdeck-reiniger-cabrioverdeckreiniger","title":"A1 Cabrio \"Verdeck-Reiniger\" Soft top cleaner","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eDr. Wack A1 Cabrio \"Verdeck-Reiniger\" gets the green film out of your soft top\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is Dr. Wack A1 Cabrio \"Verdeck-Reiniger\"? A cleaning foam in a 400 ml can for every convertible soft top, from cotton-blend fabric to vinyl, for spot cleaning or the whole roof. It's not a proofer and not a pigmented colour restorer: it won't bring back water repellency or faded colour.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDr. Wack A1 Cabrio \"Verdeck-Reiniger\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is a soft top cleaner from Dr. Wack that works as a clinging power foam. The foam stays put on the sloped roof, lifts road film, green algae and individual stains out of the top layer and holds them until you rinse foam and dirt off together. The manufacturer approves it for every type of top: fabric, acrylic, Dralon, plastic and leather.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHere the form does the work, not just the chemistry. A liquid cleaner runs down a soft top in seconds and drags the loosened dirt with it into the capillaries of the fabric. Foam has a yield point — it stays where it is until a force acts on it. For you, that means the dirt travels up into the foam and leaves the roof with the rinse water, instead of soaking in one layer deeper.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhy a soft top gets dirty differently from paint is explained in Dr. Wack's product information sheet. Most tops are built in three layers: a cotton inner lining as the headliner, a rubber interlayer, and on top an outer layer of plastic, acrylic, polyacrylonitrile or cotton-blend fabric. That outer layer is rough and soft. Dirt doesn't sit on top — it snags.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnd it's delicate. Dr. Wack explicitly gives soft tops a low abrasion resistance: scrubbing attacks the surface texture and colour depth before it gets to the dirt. That's exactly why a cleaner that sits for 5 minutes beats a good hard scrub. Time does the work, not pressure.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDwell time on the slope instead of run-off.\u003c\/strong\u003e A soft top is a sloped surface where any liquid runs off before it works. The power foam stays where you put it and can work the full 5 minutes on stubborn grime. That's the difference between one soak and three re-sprays.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e8 to 12 complete roofs from 400 ml.\u003c\/strong\u003e Dr. Wack puts the yield for full-coverage foaming at 8 to 12 applications, compared with 2 to 6 with conventional products. If you only treat individual stains, a can goes much further, because the foam goes exactly where you aim it and nothing is wasted.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOne cleaner for five roof materials.\u003c\/strong\u003e Plastic, fabric, acrylic, Dralon and leather are all on the manufacturer's list. So in a two-convertible household you don't need a second can when a fabric top sits next to a vinyl one. According to Dr. Wack, the foam doesn't attack the factory proofing.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e We often see people aim the can at a bone-dry roof because it's quicker. It isn't quicker — it kills the effect: dry fabric soaks up the foam in seconds, and down there it doesn't work any more. Give it 2 minutes with the hose until the fabric is evenly dark, then reach for the can. And start at the seams and on the shady side. That's where water sits longest, and that's where the green film shows up first.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe power foam holds on the slope for 5 minutes\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWet the roof, rinse off loose dirt, shake the can, spray the foam onto the dirty areas and leave it for 5 minutes on stubborn grime.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePre-wetting isn't a footnote in the instructions. Dry fabric pulls the foam straight into its capillaries, and there it doesn't work — it just vanishes. An evenly soaked roof is saturated: there's no more suction under the foam, so it stays on top where the dirt is.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWork with a soft, damp sponge, no pressure, in strips. Rinse the sponge out as you go, otherwise it holds on to the loosened grit and turns into a sanding block on a fabric with low abrasion resistance. The cleaner does the loosening; the sponge only has to lift it off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor a single stain, the same rule applies on a small scale. Spray spot-on onto dry fabric and you end up with two problems: the stain and a tide mark around it, because the floated dirt is left behind at the drying edge. So wet the whole strip the stain sits in and work past the seam. The foam can go spot-on; the moisture has to cover a wide area.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFinally, rinse with clean water until you can't see any more foam forming. Dr. Wack names exactly this test in its own care tips, and there's a physical reason for it: surfactants are wetting agents. Whatever's left of them in the fabric lowers the surface tension of water and attracts moisture instead of repelling it. You'll notice it like this: a badly rinsed roof dries slower than before.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-cabrio-verdeck-reiniger-cabrioverdeckreiniger_anwendung.png?v=1787867798\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"Dr. Wack A1 Cabrio Verdeck-Reiniger being sprayed as a band of foam onto the pre-wetted fabric roof\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe brightener refreshes the colour, it doesn't re-dye\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe colour-refreshing effect is real, and it has a clear limit: it's optical, coming from a brightener and from the grey haze being gone, not from pigment.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe formula contains a stilbene-based optical brightener, the same type of substance that makes white laundry look whiter. It settles on the fibre, absorbs invisible UV light and gives it back as visible blue. In practice, a tired-looking black looks rich again afterwards because the yellow cast is neutralised.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhat it can't do is replace lost pigment. A roof that has faded on the sunny side after several summers will come up clean and even again, but not black again. That takes a pigmented soft top dye, and that's a different step with a different risk.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe second limit is mechanical and final. Where a stiff brush or a pressure washer held too close has roughed up the top layer or damaged a seam, no cleaner brings the texture back. Raised fibres scatter the light, the spot stays dull and grey and from then on picks up dirt faster. Dr. Wack's own care tips explicitly warn against pressure washers, car washes and stiff brushes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe third limit is more a matter of context. There's no independent lab test of this cleaner: test institutes and car magazines have so far tested soft top proofers, not cleaners. So what's backed up here is what Dr. Wack states in its product information sheet, verifiable with the manufacturer in Baar-Ebenhausen. We'd rather say so than hint at a test win that doesn't exist for this product.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCleaning alone keeps the roof clean, not dry\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA freshly cleaned roof is open, absorbent and unprotected — and in exactly that state, the next step decides how long it stays clean.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eGreen film on a soft top isn't dirt that settles, it's something that grows. Algae and moss need just one thing for that: time with moisture. A roof that soaks up every shower and then needs two days to dry out gives them that time every single week. The cleaner gets the green film out. It doesn't shorten the drying time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat's why Dr. Wack's instructions don't end with a full stop but with a fork in the road. If your roof is fabric, the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/dr-wack-a1-cabrio-verdeck-impraegnierer-textilimpraegnierung\"\u003eCabrio \"Verdeck-Imprägnierer\" fabric proofer\u003c\/a\u003e goes on once it's dry, stopping it from soaking up water and so cutting drying time. If it's plastic or vinyl, the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/dr-wack-a1-kunststoff-tiefenpfleger-kunststoffpflege-glaenzend\"\u003e\"Kunststoff-Tiefenpfleger\" trim care\u003c\/a\u003e is next, because soft PVC doesn't need water repellency but the plasticisers it loses over the years.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSkip the second step and you don't just lose the protection — you lose the cleaning work faster too. An unproofed roof soaks up the next rain, stays dark and damp for longer and in that time picks up dust, pollen and spores that cling to the wet fabric. The next green film starts the day you finish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWho the can is worth it for: anyone who keeps their convertible outdoors or under trees, second cars with fabric tops that sit for long periods over winter, and anyone who wants to treat individual stains rather than foam the whole roof. If your convertible lives in a garage and you wipe the roof down once a year, an all-rounder from our \u003ca href=\"\/en\/collections\/textil-und-polster\"\u003efabric and upholstery care\u003c\/a\u003e will get you just as far.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe point no manufacturer prints on the can: the can is also your test kit. Before pre-wetting, put a walnut-sized blob of foam on an inconspicuous spot of the still-dry roof. If it stands up as a white dome, the proofing is still alive. If it slumps into a dark patch within a few seconds, it's gone — and the second step isn't optional that day. Three seconds of effort, and you know before you start what you'll need afterwards.\u003c\/p\u003e\n","brand":"Dr. Wack \"A1\"","offers":[{"title":"400 ml","offer_id":54707182240079,"sku":"D1-DRW-2520","price":16.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-cabrio-verdeck-reiniger-cabrioverdeckreiniger.png?v=1787867170"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-a1-kunststoff-tiefenpfleger-kunststoffpflege-glaenzend","title":"A1 \"Kunststoff-Tiefenpfleger\" Trim care (gloss)","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eFaded bumpers and trim strips come back glossy black with the A1 trim dressing\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is the Dr. Wack A1 \"Kunststoff-Tiefenpfleger\" in gloss? A colour refresher for plastic, rubber and vinyl that brings faded black back on bumpers, trim strips and wheel arch liners and, according to the manufacturer, stands up particularly well to rain and car washes. Keep it off glass, paint, the tyre tread and the interior controls.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThe gloss trim dressing from Dr. Wack\u003c\/strong\u003e is car plastic care made at the factory in Baar-Ebenhausen, designed for every exterior and interior plastic, rubber and vinyl surface on the vehicle. You dose it onto a cloth or a fine-pored sponge, never onto the part itself. After about 5 minutes you wipe over it. What stays behind is a film with UV protection and an antistatic effect.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat a grey part can turn black again is something you see at every wash. Wet, the bumper is jet black; as it dries, the black retreats into grey. Over the years before, the part didn't lose any colour, it lost a smooth surface. Rain, road salt and above all UV radiation break down the top layers of the plastic and leave it microscopically rough.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA rough surface scatters light in every direction instead of bouncing it back in one beam. The gloss level drops, and that's exactly what your eye reads as a grey haze. Water fills that roughness for a few minutes and makes the surface look smooth again. The A1 gloss does the same, except it stays put once it's dry. In day-to-day terms: the black you see on the wet part is the black you get.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eRunning in parallel is the second ageing process, which Dr. Wack names in its own product information sheet. Over the years plastic loses its plasticisers and turns brittle. The dressing works against that preventively, because according to the manufacturer it soaks in rather than just sitting on top, and it brings UV protection along. It doesn't undo anything. If you wait until the wheel arch trim cracks at the edge, you're treating a part that crossed that line long ago.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eTested on a bumper, not on a dashboard.\u003c\/strong\u003e In 2017 a comparison test at the Kärcher lab in Winnenden took on 16 plastic colour refreshers, applied section by section to the unpainted front bumper of a 1996 Ford Fiesta. The instant effect was measured with a gloss meter, then wash-off resistance over two rain cycles of 10 minutes each. The A1 gloss won with 91 out of 100 points, while most of the field was visibly fading after the first rain cycle.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e5 minutes dwell time, a second pass after 30 minutes.\u003c\/strong\u003e You apply the dressing sparingly with a cloth or fine-pored sponge, let it soak in for about 5 minutes, then wipe over it. Half an hour later the manufacturer calls for a second coat, and that's the one that delivers the advertised long-term effect. Outside, this step isn't optional: whatever is meant to survive rain and the car wash gets built in the second pass.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e250 millilitres cover the exterior trim of a car several times over.\u003c\/strong\u003e It doesn't go on across whole panels like shampoo, but thinly via the applicator, and what you treat is bumpers, trim strips, arch liners and seals rather than entire body sides. User reports put the next round at 2 to 3 months. Dr. Wack doesn't give a coverage figure in millilitres per part, and we won't make one up.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e The questions we get about the gloss version almost all take the same shape: blotchy, cloudy, glossier in one spot than the next. That's not a product fault, it's what gloss does. A matte surface forgives a lap mark; a glossy one shows it as a shadow stripe. So work part by part rather than hand-width by hand-width: the bumper edge to edge in one go, then the next trim piece. And dose onto the cloth, never onto the part.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eDo the trim in one go, not in patches\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe A1 gloss goes onto a clean, dry surface, gets spread sparingly with a cloth or fine-pored sponge and is wiped over with a dry cloth after about 5 minutes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFirst, the surface has to be clean. On trim, meaning the unpainted black plastic parts outside, there's more than dust after a winter: traffic film, road salt residue and wax haze from the last polish. An \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/dr-wack-a1-all-in-one-intensivreiniger-aussen-intensivreiniger\"\u003eA1 \"ALL in ONE\" heavy-duty cleaner (exterior)\u003c\/a\u003e takes that off. After that the car needs proper drying time, not just one pass with a drying towel. Every gap and every trim edge still holds water after the wash, and it runs out as you apply, pulling pale streaks right there.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThen the part-by-part rule applies. Take the whole bumper, arch to arch, then the sill trim, then the wheel arch liner. Stop halfway and carry on twenty minutes later, and you set an edge between fresh and half-dried product that later shows up as a shadow in raking light.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOutside, heat is the underrated enemy. A black trim piece in the midday sun gets hot enough that the product flashes off before it can soak in. That's exactly why the product information sheet rules out direct sun and hot parts. In practice: shady side first, or push the whole job into the early evening.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eUnder the bonnet the same temperature rule applies, only stricter. Engine covers, the airbox and the scuttle panel are plastic surfaces like any other and are among the spots where greying shows most. Work there on a cold engine, not straight after a drive.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe gloss brings back the colour, not the material\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe no-go surface closest to hand outside is the tyre tread: a hand's width below the arch liner you're working on. Add glass, painted parts and, inside, controls like the steering wheel and pedals.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWe add headlights out of our own conviction. Headlight lenses are an optical surface with the same job as glass, and a dressing film on them scatters light instead of letting it through. You'll notice it straight away with oncoming traffic at night. On the tyre the dividing line is finer than it sounds: the sidewall is a rubber surface like any other, the tread is off limits.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe second limit is more fundamental. The dressing works on the surface and gives it its black back, but it doesn't rebuild material. A scratch stays a scratch, a web of hairline cracks in an old trim piece stays visible, just black instead of grey. And a part that's already so brittle it snaps at the edge won't turn flexible again with any dressing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn return it scores a point many cheap products miss: the A1 is solvent-free. Solvent-based dressings give instant depth, but they evaporate again and take with them whatever mobile components are still left in the plastic. The upshot: after treatment the part isn't drier than before, it just has one more protective film.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat leads to a clear if-then rule, and it hinges on the factory finish of the part. If the part left the factory glossy, like piano-black trim strips, grille surrounds or smooth trim panels, this version is the right one. If it was delivered grained and matte, like many modern bumper inserts and wheel arch trims, reach for the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/dr-wack-a1-kunststoff-tiefenpfleger-kunststoffpflege-matt\"\u003ematte version of the trim dressing\u003c\/a\u003e, otherwise the part ends up looking like something it never was.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnd a dressing is not a coating. The test measured two rain cycles, not a season. That the A1 barely faded doesn't mean it lasts a year, it means it hangs on longer than most of the others in the same trial.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eOut in the open plastic ages, under a roof it barely does\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou'll get the most out of this product if your car lives outside, because there UV and rain work on the trim all year round and the greying comes back fast.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn a car kept under cover and driven twice a month in summer, the same process takes years. There a refresh every few seasons is more honest than a fixed interval, and the 250 ml bottle lasts accordingly. If you're bringing back a ten-year-old car with badly faded trim, on the other hand, plan the second pass after 30 minutes in from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne side effect from the product information sheet is worth more in day-to-day detailing than it sounds: the A1 gloss lifts polish and wax residue off plastic parts. Exactly those white edges that sit in the grain of the bumper and trim after a paint polish and won't come out with a cloth. A job plenty of people buy a separate product for.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAntistatic is the second point that plays out differently outside than inside. The surface no longer holds an electrostatic charge for fine dust to cling to. You notice it because the grey traffic film builds up more slowly between two washes and comes off more easily at the next one. If you want to dig further, the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/collections\/kunststoffpflege\"\u003eplastic care\u003c\/a\u003e range also has products built for pure colour depth without the staying power.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFinally, the test no manufacturer writes down, and one you should do before you even start. Point the hose at the grey part and look at it wet.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf it turns jet black, the greying is purely optical and down to the roughened surface. That's exactly the state the dressing brings back, and the wet part shows you in advance what the result will look like. If it stays milky grey even when wet, the surface has broken down further than any dressing can make up for. Then you don't need a dressing but mechanical prep or a re-dyeing product, and two minutes with the hose save you a letdown.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"A1\"","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":54707187843407,"sku":"D1-DRW-2780","price":12.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-kunststoff-tiefenpfleger-glaenzend-kunststoffpflege.png?v=1787867254"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-a1-kunststoff-tiefenpfleger-kunststoffpflege-matt","title":"A1 \"Kunststoff-Tiefenpfleger\" Trim Care (Matt)","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eThe Kunststoff-Tiefenpfleger matt brings the colour back without putting a reflection in the screen\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is the Dr. Wack A1 \"Kunststoff-Tiefenpfleger\" matt? A colour refresh for plastic, rubber and vinyl inside and out that dries down matt and, the manufacturer says, cuts reflections of the dashboard in the windscreen. Not suitable for glass, painted parts, tyre treads or controls such as the steering wheel and pedals.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eKunststoff-Tiefenpfleger matt\u003c\/strong\u003e is a trim care product from Dr. Wack, made at the plant in Baar-Ebenhausen, for every interior and exterior plastic, rubber and vinyl surface on the car. You dose it onto a cloth and not onto the part, then it soaks in for around 5 minutes and gets wiped off. What stays behind is an antistatic film with a UV filter that scatters light instead of bouncing it back.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBehind that sit two ageing processes that Dr. Wack names in its own product information sheet. Over the years plastic loses its plasticisers, the small mobile molecules that sit between the long chain molecules and let them slide past each other. Once those have evaporated, chain rubs on chain, the part goes hard and sooner or later it splits at the edge.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAt the same time UV light cracks the colour pigments open, and black turns into that washed-out grey. The Kunststoff-Tiefenpfleger matt works against both: the manufacturer says it soaks into the plastic rather than just sitting on top, and it brings a UV filter with it. Day-to-day that means you are not treating the grey haze, you are treating what makes it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMatt here is not a taste, it is scatter.\u003c\/strong\u003e A matt surface throws light off in every direction, a glossy one bundles it — and that bundle is exactly what a steeply raked windscreen sends back into your field of view. That is why carmakers ship dashboards grained and dark. Two of the eight product benefits in the information sheet turn on this point: the reduced reflection and the explicit approval for plastics that are already matt.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFive minutes working in the material, not on it.\u003c\/strong\u003e You lay it on sparingly through a cloth or a fine-pored sponge, then come 5 minutes of dwell time and the wipe-off. Those five minutes are the difference between colouring the plastic and coating it: whatever has not soaked in by then belongs in the towel, not on the dashboard.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eTwo bottles for two ranges.\u003c\/strong\u003e The small 50 ml bottle is the size for one car interior and for anyone who first wants to see how matt matt really looks on their plastic. The big one holds 250 ml, five times as much, and covers bumpers, arch trims and exterior mouldings on top. Inside, users report 2 to 3 months before the next round.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e We get a lot of questions about why the plastic looks streaky or greasy after treatment. Nearly always the same step is missing. Wiping down after the five minutes is not cosmetic, it is what creates the matt finish in the first place. Whatever has not soaked in during the dwell time is sitting on top as a film, and that film shines, goes tacky and pulls in dust. Take it off with a dry, clean towel, not with the one you applied with.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe five minutes belong to the plastic, the rest belongs to the towel\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn a dusty panel, all your cloth spreads around is dust. The Kunststoff-Tiefenpfleger matt belongs on a clean, dry surface, and it goes onto the cloth, never onto the part.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSo clean it first. An \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/dr-wack-a1-all-in-one-innenraumreiniger-glasreiniger\"\u003einterior and glass cleaner\u003c\/a\u003e pulls dust, the greasy film from fingers and nicotine residue off the surface, and then it has to dry. Put the conditioner on damp material and you thin it out and get clouds instead of an even panel.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThen dose it sparingly onto a soft, absorbent cloth or a fine-pored sponge and lay it on evenly. Let it dwell for 5 minutes — that is when the actual work happens, the rest of the time you are only waiting. Then wipe down with a second, dry towel until the surface comes back flat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the full long-term effect Dr. Wack recommends a second round after about 30 minutes. That is the step almost nobody does, and it costs barely any product: the plastic is largely saturated from the first pass, so the second coat only fills the spots that came up short.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTwo conditions come as notes in the product information sheet: no direct sun, no heated-up surface. A dashboard that has stood in the sun all morning is hot enough to dry the conditioner off before it can soak in. Then the film sits on top and you are back at the streak problem.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-kunststoff-tiefenpfleger-kunststoffpflege-matt_anwendung.jpg?v=1787867852\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"Dr. Wack A1 Kunststoff-Tiefenpfleger matt with a folded microfibre towel on the centre console\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe conditioner has no business on the steering wheel or the pedals\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDr. Wack rules out four surfaces outright: glass, painted parts, tyre treads and controls such as the steering wheel and pedals. With the last two it is not about the material, it is about grip.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe film that keeps dust off also lowers friction. On a steering wheel rim or a brake pedal that is the wrong property, because your hand and your shoe need to hold on there. The same thinking goes for the gear lever, the handbrake grip and the floor mats, even if those are not named in the exclusion.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eGlass is just as much off limits. Nothing soaks in there, the film stays put and in backlight it produces exactly the smears you set out to get rid of. On the tyre the dividing line is finer than it sounds: the sidewall is a rubber surface like any other, the tread is explicitly excluded.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThen the honest read from the lab. Auto Bild put nine plastic conditioners up against each other on colour refresh, durability over five washes, water repellency and material compatibility. The matt A1 won the test with a grade of 1.5, and it picked up its points mainly on wash durability and material compatibility. Another product in the same field refreshed the colour more strongly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat gives you a clean if-then rule. If a part has to stay matt, so dashboard, door cards, grained and already matt plastics, you take this version. If you want maximum colour depth on black trim, on the unpainted plastic of bumpers, wheel arches and mouldings, and the gloss level there is not an issue, the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/dr-wack-a1-kunststoff-tiefenpfleger-kunststoffpflege-glaenzend\"\u003eglossy version of the conditioner\u003c\/a\u003e is the better tool.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnd a limit in the other direction: the conditioner makes nothing matt that left the factory glossy. It simply adds no gloss of its own, that is all. So a piano-black panel on the centre console stays glossy, however often you work it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eInside, dust decides how long it lasts, not the rain\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe long-term effect Dr. Wack advertises is an outdoor figure. It describes how many wet drives and car washes the film survives. Inside the cabin, neither of those two is attacking it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIndoors, dust decides. Antistatic means the surface no longer holds the electrostatic charge that dust clings to. You notice it because the grey haze comes back more slowly and lifts off dry, instead of you having to turn up with a damp cloth again. Users report two to three months before the next round is due.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOutside the maths is different. On black trim, rain, road salt and car washes work against the film, and that is exactly where the test measured durability. One special case is in the product information sheet as well: the Kunststoff-Tiefenpfleger matt lifts polish and wax residue off plastic parts. If you have white edges sitting on the bumper after a polish, this is the tool for them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWho actually gains from it: drivers whose cockpit catches more sun than the rest of the car, so convertibles and anything that lives outdoors. And anyone driving into a low sun morning or evening. In December the sun here sits less than 15 degrees above the horizon at midday, its light hits the windscreen at almost a grazing angle, and then the gloss level of the dashboard is part of what decides how much you see.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you wipe the inside of your car out twice a year and live with the grey, you do not need the deep action and will find simpler options in \u003ca href=\"\/en\/collections\/kunststoffpflege\"\u003etrim care\u003c\/a\u003e. And if your cockpit is piano black and display surfaces, you are only treating the grained parts around them anyway.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFinally, the test no manufacturer writes down: judge the result on the windscreen, not on the dashboard. Straight after the wipe-down every treated surface looks good, from above, under cabin light, from half a metre away.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhether too much product stayed behind only shows from the driver's seat, looking into the light. Sit in and look for the outline of the dashboard in the screen. If it is there, one pass with the dry towel is missing. If it is gone, you worked clean.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"A1\"","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":54707188498767,"sku":"D1-DRW-2770","price":12.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"50 ml","offer_id":58584740233551,"sku":"D1-DRW-2773","price":5.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-kunststoff-tiefenpfleger-kunststoffpflege-matt.png?v=1787867264"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-a1-leder-pflege-lederpflege","title":"A1 \"Leather Care\" Leather care","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eDr. Wack A1 \"Leather Care\" keeps the top layer supple and slows down cracking\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is Dr. Wack A1 \"Leather Care\"? A solvent-free care film based on jojoba oil that can be used on any type of smooth leather and synthetic leather, including perforated seats. It keeps the top layer supple, protects against fading from UV rays, and makes water bead off. Not a cleaner, not a sealant, and not for suede.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDr. Wack A1 \"Leather Care\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is a leather care product from Dr. Wack based on jojoba oil for smooth leather and synthetic leather in vehicles. It applies a thin film to the top layer and keeps it supple. In doing so, it works against the problem Dr. Wack describes in its product information sheet: heat, moisture, UV radiation, and dirt make leather brittle and cracked.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe active ingredient has \"oil\" in its name, but chemically it is not one. Jojoba oil is a liquid wax, an ester of long-chain fatty acids and fatty alcohols that largely lacks the unsaturated sites where oxygen typically attacks. This is exactly what Dr. Wack relies on for its claim of temperature and aging resistance. For you, this means: the film will not turn rancid or sticky over the course of months, unlike fat-based household remedies on a leather seat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe second half of the answer lies in the substrate. On modern automotive leather, a polyurethane top layer sits above the dyed skin—a wafer-thin lacquer layer that provides color and abrasion resistance. Oil cannot penetrate this. You can tell because whatever looks darker and richer after application is not soaked skin, but a surface kept supple, which, according to the manufacturer, restores color depth without becoming shiny.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n\n\u003cli\u003e\n\n\u003cstrong\u003eSuppleness and cracks were measured in the laboratory.\u003c\/strong\u003e The sheet mentions two effects that go hand-in-hand: the care prevents crack formation and stops existing cracks from growing. In March 2014, the GTÜ tested exactly this aspect using standardized procedures for wrinkling, suppleness, and impregnation protection, involving pressure loading, rolling, and water wetting. The result for the cleaner and care combination: 239 out of 300 points, 1st place out of 10.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\u003cli\u003e\n\n\u003cstrong\u003eBeading on the seat, not just on the paint.\u003c\/strong\u003e Dr. Wack states that the film protects against dirt and makes water bead off. On leather, this means the same as on paint: the drop remains a sphere instead of soaking in. Because automotive leather is 99.9 percent surface-dyed smooth leather, this top layer determines whether a coffee spill is easily wiped away or needs to be worked out later.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\u003cli\u003e\n\n\u003cstrong\u003e250 ml, and the sheet insists on sparse use.\u003c\/strong\u003e Applying evenly and sparingly is not just a phrase, but the instruction manual: whatever the top layer does not absorb remains as a film and becomes greasy. Dr. Wack does not provide a coverage rate per bottle. We therefore work in palm-sized sections and wipe each one down with the dry side of the cloth.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePractical tip from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e \"Leave to act depending on the absorbency of the leather\" is all Dr. Wack writes about application time. From our experience, this becomes a clear instruction: apply a palm-sized test area to the driver's side bolster and check it after 1 minute. If the shine is gone, the leather has absorbed it and can handle a second thin application. If it is still shiny, the top layer is saturated, and the rest should be removed immediately with the dry side of the cloth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eEvery leather zone absorbs differently, the driver's side bolster the most\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Leather Care is applied sparingly to a soft cloth, never directly to the surface, and distributed on cleaned, dry leather in palm-sized sections.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe bottle should be shaken beforehand, otherwise the wax will settle at the bottom. Dr. Wack recommends a soft, absorbent cloth, a fine-pored sponge, or their own \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/dr-wack-a1-all-in-one-mikrofasertuch-mikrofasertuch\"\u003eA1 \"ALL in ONE\" microfiber cloth\u003c\/a\u003e as an application tool. All three do the same thing: they dose the product. A cloth dispenses exactly as much as you have put into it and picks it back up at the end with the second, dry side.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe surface determines how much of it disappears. On the entry bolster of the driver's seat, the top layer is under the most stress; jeans rub over it every time you get in. This zone absorbs noticeably more than the back seat, which remains almost untouched for years in many cars. Anyone treating both the same will have too little product in the front and a film in the back that looks dusty after two days.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBetween applying and wiping off, there is a short venting phase, and that lasts exactly as long as the leather needs. For a smooth, well-maintained Nappa surface, this is a matter of seconds. For a matte, already roughened bolster, it can take 1 minute. The absorption test from the practical tip answers this faster than any rule of thumb because it measures the answer on the vehicle instead of estimating it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHeat is a different kind of problem for a care product than it is for a cleaner. On a heated surface, the film settles where it lands and cannot be spread out evenly anymore. What results are clouds instead of a uniform layer. That is why Dr. Wack rules out direct sunlight and heated surfaces. Shade, open doors, 10 minutes of patience.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePerforated seats require the flat hand. What is pushed into a row of holes does not dry through, and underneath sits foam that absorbs what gets through. The approval for perforated leather applies under exactly this condition. On the steering wheel rim, work even thinner than usual and polish with the dry side until the grip is matte again.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eNew automotive leather does not need re-fattening, it needs protection\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePigmented automotive leather cannot be \"fed.\" The closed top layer over it does not allow fats to penetrate into the fiber, which is why every care product works on this layer and not inside the hide.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Lederzentrum, for decades the go-to address for leather repair, puts it clearly: in the first three years, automotive leather does not need re-fattening; it is still optimally equipped by the tanner. What it needs is protection against wear and color transfer from clothing. Anyone trying to re-fatten three-year-old automotive leather is effectively waxing a rain jacket: the material is coated, and the cream stays on the outside.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is exactly where the strength of this product lies, and exactly where its first limit is. The A1 \"Leather Care\" is a protective film, not a nutrient. It keeps the top layer elastic, applies a water-repellent layer on top, and takes on the abrasion that would otherwise hit the color layer. For leather that has truly dried out after fifteen years, it does not replace a re-fattening care milk.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe second limit is more harmless to name and more expensive to ignore. Where the top layer has been worn through and the light-colored substrate is showing, no care film will bring back the color. That is a case for leather repair with color application, not a bottle. The care product slows down the path to that point; it does not reverse it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe third limit is where the manufacturer remains silent. Dr. Wack does not specify anywhere how many months the film lasts, and we will not invent a number. What can be said: it is a care product, not a coating. Anyone looking for a multi-year service life is looking for a leather sealant, and that is a different product with different preparation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe fourth is on the bottle: suede, nubuck, and Alcantara are excluded because there is no closed film there that can be cared for in this way. A simple rule applies for your choice: if your leather is young, pigmented, and intact, protection is the right task and A1 \"Leather Care\" is the right bottle. If it is old, matte, and truly brittle, reach for a re-fattening care milk in the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/collections\/lederpflege\"\u003eleather care\u003c\/a\u003e category.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe driver's seat needs care four times as often as the back seat\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDr. Wack does not name a maintenance interval. We work with twice a year for the entire leather interior and significantly more often for the driver's seat and steering wheel.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe figures behind this come from two directions and coincide. Our internal routine at Detailing101 provides for thorough cleaning every 2 to 3 months and care twice a year. The Lederzentrum recommends caring for the driver's seat every 3 months for new leather and the rest of the leather every 6 to 12 months. Both lead to the same ratio: the seat surface you use daily consumes the protection many times faster than the back seat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA1 \"Leather Care\" is therefore right for vehicles with pigmented smooth leather or synthetic leather that are still intact and should remain so. It is particularly useful for light-colored interiors, where indigo abrasion from dark jeans appears first on the driver's bolster, and for ventilated or heated seats with perforation, where many competing products with spray heads are disqualified.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt is wrong for vehicles with Alcantara interiors, for open-pored aniline leather, and for anyone expecting a coating that only needs to be applied once a year. Anyone who wants their leather clean beforehand—and the manufacturer explicitly demands this—takes the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/dr-wack-a1-leder-reiniger-lederreiniger\"\u003eA1 \"Leather Cleaner\"\u003c\/a\u003e as the first step. Care applied to a still-greasy top layer sits on the dirt rather than the leather.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eRegarding the container: 250 ml from a plastic bottle, manufactured at Dr. O.K. Wack Chemie in Baar-Ebenhausen. Because the cloth doses rather than a spray head, the amount lasts longer than the number might suggest. This cannot be proven, as no yield information exists either on the bottle or in the product information sheet, and we do not write down estimated numbers.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe most important lever in the end is not the quantity, but the timing. Dr. Wack names heat and UV radiation as two of the drivers that make leather brittle, and both have their season. Care applied in October has already passed the stress it is meant to work against. We therefore schedule the main appointment in the spring, before the interior behind glass gets really hot for the first time, and follow up with a second one in late summer.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"A1\"","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":54707189809487,"sku":"D1-DRW-2510","price":16.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-leder-pflege-lederpflege_d41586a1-ba5b-496a-8da0-00a2f613e764.png?v=1787867280"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-a1-leder-reiniger-lederreiniger","title":"A1 \"Leder-Reiniger\" Leather Cleaner","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eDr. Wack A1 \"Leather Cleaner\" removes the grease film from car leather\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is Dr. Wack A1 \"Leather Cleaner\"? A water-based cleaner with less than 5 percent anionic surfactants for all types of smooth leather and artificial leather, expressly including perforated leather. Not suitable for suede, nubuck, or Alcantara. And not a conditioner: the second step is required to provide suppleness and protection.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDr. Wack A1 \"Leather Cleaner\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is a water-based leather cleaner by Dr. Wack for all smooth leather types and artificial leather in vehicles. It dissolves the film of skin oils, hand cream, and textile abrasion that settles on the leather surface and in its pores, picking it up with the cloth instead of spreading it around. The topcoat that gives the leather its color remains untouched.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe work is done by a single surfactant: isopropylamine dodecylbenzenesulfonate, an anionic surfactant with a hydrophilic end and a lipophilic end. The lipophilic end latches onto the dirt film, the other stays in the water, and the grease is pulled into the water like it’s on a leash. You can tell it’s working: the grime you would otherwise just smear around leaves the car on the cloth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTo ensure the surfactant can actually grip, a glycol ether goes first to make the grease layer water-soluble. Xanthan gives the liquid just enough body so it doesn’t immediately run off a vertical seat bolster and crawl into the stitching. Practical: one pass instead of three, and no dark edges along the seams.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe film in question is not dust. Skin oils, hand cream, sunscreen, and jean dyes deposit layer by layer until the leather on the steering wheel and seat bolster develops a greasy shine. Dr. Wack describes what happens next in the product information sheet: the dirt penetrates into the fiber structure, clogs the pores, and accelerates the aging of the leather.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n\n\u003cli\u003e\n\n\u003cstrong\u003eSeven ingredients, led by water.\u003c\/strong\u003e The declaration according to the Detergents Regulation lists exactly seven substances; the surfactant content is under 5 percent. No bleach, no abrasives, no solvent cocktail. This is the reason why Dr. Wack recommends the product for light-colored leather: what is dangerous for a light-colored seat is rarely the dirt, but the agent used against it.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\u003cli\u003e\n\n\u003cstrong\u003eApproved for perforated leather.\u003c\/strong\u003e The manufacturer explicitly lists perforated leather as an area of application, and the reason is in the instructions for use: the cleaner is applied to the cloth, never as a spray directly onto the surface, and the 250 ml bottle consequently does not have a spray head. For ventilated or heated Nappa seats, this is exactly what determines whether the perforation gets clean or liquid ends up in the seat foam.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\u003cli\u003e\n\n\u003cstrong\u003eThree work steps, no dwelling time.\u003c\/strong\u003e Soak the cloth, clean the surface, wipe down residue-free with a second damp cloth. That is all the product information sheet says. There is no waiting time during which the product could sit on the leather and dry, and nothing is wasted from the 250 ml: the cloth handles the dosing.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePractical tip from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e We often see that the compatibility test required by Dr. Wack in the product information sheet is performed in the most unfavorable spot: right in the middle of the driver's seat surface. Instead, use the back of a rear seat backrest—same leather section, same topcoat, just without an audience. Only pass judgment once the spot is dry, as damp leather is always darker. With under 5 percent surfactant content, the test on pigmented leather is almost always inconspicuous. The exception is aniline leather, and that is what you want to find beforehand.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe topcoat gets clean, the leather underneath remains untouched\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe cleaner goes on the cloth, not the leather. Three steps, no dwelling time, working in palm-sized sections.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAlmost every factory car leather is pigmented smooth leather. Over the actual hide lies a thin, paint-like topcoat that provides color, structure, and abrasion resistance, and the dirt sits on and in this layer, not in the hide below. This means for you: the color cannot bleed out during cleaning because it is locked in the topcoat and does not end up in the cleaning water.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe same applies to artificial leather, just without the hide underneath: the surface is essentially a closed plastic film, and the dirt sits on top. That is why artificial leather is listed alongside smooth leather on the bottle. In many vehicles, door panels, center armrests, and seat bolsters are artificial leather anyway, while only the seat surface is genuine leather. One product for both saves you the trouble of sorting.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe third step is the one almost everyone skips. After cleaning, the dissolved dirt sits on the surface as an emulsion, and anyone who closes the car now has only relocated it. A second cloth, dampened only with water, picks it up. That is why you work in small sections: what is dissolved must be removed while it is still damp.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe manufacturer sets two conditions: do not work in direct sun or on heated surfaces. A black leather seat behind glass gets significantly warmer on a summer afternoon than the outside air, and on a warm surface, the water in the cloth evaporates faster than you can wipe it away. Then, exactly the rim you wanted to remove remains. Shade and open doors solve this.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt works differently on a seam than on a flat surface. Two leather edges and a thread meet there, and the depression between them catches exactly what you have dissolved from the surface. Therefore, never wipe across the seam, but along it, and pick up the edge with the dry side of the cloth. Otherwise, you push the dirt into the groove and see it there again in four weeks as a dark line.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt shows on the steering wheel first because more contact hours per square centimeter accumulate there than on any other leather surface in the car. For perforated seats, guide the cloth flat over the holes instead of pressing it in, and wring it out beforehand until it is damp rather than wet. What else is suitable for this work step can be found in the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/collections\/lederreiniger\"\u003eLeather cleaner\u003c\/a\u003e category.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-leder-reiniger-lederreiniger_anwendung.jpg?v=1787867856\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"Dr. Wack A1 leather cleaner on a leather seat, next to it a microfiber cloth removes the grease film\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe leather cleaner does not belong on Alcantara and suede\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAlcantara looks like suede but is a polyester microfiber fleece. A leather cleaner gets between the fibers, clumps the pile, and leaves hard spots.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe same boundary applies to real suede, nubuck, and velour. These leathers have no topcoat; their surface is a roughened fiber fabric that absorbs liquid and then mats. Dr. Wack explicitly excludes suede in the product information sheet. If your seat feels velvety and changes color when you brush it, the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/dr-wack-a1-polster-alcantara-reiniger-pro-textilreiniger\"\u003eA1 \"Upholstery\/Alcantara Cleaner\" (Pro)\u003c\/a\u003e is the right product.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou can tell them apart with two simple moves. Rub your finger against the grain: if the color changes and a track remains, you are dealing with Alcantara or velour. If the surface remains the same and feels smooth and slightly cool, it is smooth leather, and Nappa is just the soft, fine-grained version of that, often with perforation in the center of the seat. When in doubt, the seat bolster is the deciding factor; it is almost always the more robust material.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe second boundary is less noticeable. Aniline leather is dyed through and has no topcoat; it absorbs like blotting paper and shows every water ring. You can recognize it by the fact that a water drop immediately soaks in and darkens instead of staying put. This is exactly why the manufacturer requires a test on a hidden area before every application. If the cloth picks up color, stop.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe third boundary lies in the physics of the topcoat. The cleaner works on it, not under it. Dye transfer from dark jeans lies on top and comes off, which Dr. Wack itself lists as a type of soiling. Dye that has migrated through fine cracks into the layer, however, sits underneath, and no cleaner can reach it there. What is stuck there is a case for leather restoration, not a bottle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnd the last one, which is already in the name: the A1 \"Leather Cleaner\" cleans, it does not condition. It does not restore suppleness or protection to the leather and does not repair a worn-out seat bolster where the topcoat is already missing. Freshly cleaned leather is open and unprotected. What follows is a separate step with a separate product.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe test victories were won by the duo, not the cleaner alone\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTwo GTÜ comparative tests and a test in Auto Bild Sportscars went to Dr. Wack. In each case, the team of cleaner and conditioner was evaluated, not the individual bottle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe figures: 227 out of 300 points and 1st place out of 12 products at GTÜ in November 2013, 239 out of 300 and 1st place out of 10 in March 2014, plus 1st place out of 7 at Auto Bild Sportscars. The classification remains fair only with two footnotes: the tests are over ten years old, and the bottle today carries the imprint \"New Power Formula.\" They prove the line, not the current formulation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBoth are produced at Dr. O.K. Wack Chemie in Baar-Ebenhausen. The A1 \"Leather Cleaner\" is right for you if you have pigmented smooth leather or artificial leather in your car, especially if it is light-colored or perforated, and if you are prepared to carry out the second step. Those who only want to wipe everything down once a year are better off taking the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/dr-wack-a1-leder-pflege-lederpflege\"\u003eA1 \"Leather Care\"\u003c\/a\u003e with them, because according to the manufacturer, its jojoba oil-based care components only truly absorb after a deep-pore cleaning.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eRegarding the container size: 250 ml sounds like little for complete leather interior. It goes further than the number suggests because the cloth does the dosing and there is no spray head. However, Dr. Wack does not provide a coverage figure, and we will not calculate one for you that we cannot prove. What we can say: one pass over the steering wheel, front seats, and door panels costs you more cloth sides than product.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe litmus test at the end is not the leather, but the cloth. Freshly wiped leather always looks clean because it is damp and dark, which is reliably misleading. Take a fresh side of the cloth and wipe over the area you just treated: if it comes up gray, the pores are still releasing dirt, and you are not finished.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOnly when the cloth side remains clean is the surface ready for the second step. This is not a detail, but the reason why the order matters: conditioner on still-dirty leather locks the dirt under the new layer instead of removing it. During the next pass, you are then working against your own product.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-leder-reiniger-lederreiniger_anwendung_2.jpg?v=1787867860\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"Close-up of A1 leather cleaner on a leather center armrest while wiping down with a damp cloth\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"A1\"","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":54707190989135,"sku":"D1-DRW-2515","price":12.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-leder-reiniger-lederreiniger.png?v=1787867291"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-a1-polster-alcantara-reiniger-pro-textilreiniger","title":"A1 \"Polster-\/Alcantara Reiniger\" (Pro) Textile Cleaner","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eA1 \"Polster-\/Alcantara Reiniger\" pulls stains out of the pile without leaving rings\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is the A1 \"Polster-\/Alcantara Reiniger\" (Pro)? An aerosol foam from Dr. Wack for fabric upholstery, velour, Alcantara, carpet, vinyl trim and the headliner that breaks stains loose inside the weave and takes odours apart instead of covering them up. Not meant for pigmented smooth leather, and not for liquid that has run all the way down into the seat foam.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA1 \"Polster-\/Alcantara Reiniger\" (Pro)\u003c\/strong\u003e is a textile cleaner from Dr. Wack that comes out of a 400 ml can as a foam and lifts the dirt inside the pile instead of flushing it down into the seat. Alcantara is no special case borrowed from leather care here. It is a microfibre non-woven made of polyester and polyurethane, so textile, and it gets treated exactly that way.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe foam works with three building blocks at once. Anionic surfactants grab grease and skin flakes. Polycarboxylates hold the loosened dirt in suspension so it does not settle straight back in. And enzymes cut the protein residue from milk, coffee or blood into fragments no bacterium can do anything with. For you that means the smell goes because its source has been taken apart, not because a fragrance is lying over it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHow little water is involved comes out in one unremarkable line of the safety data sheet from Baar-Ebenhausen. Next to the heading pH value stands a single word: none. A pH value assumes a water-based solution, and there is none here, the actives travel in a mix of solvent and propellant. So the can itself brings almost no moisture with it. That comes from your towel. Which puts it in your hands.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eTest winner with 288 out of 300 points.\u003c\/strong\u003e In 2022 AUTO BILD and the KÜS set ten upholstery cleaners on eight standardised soilings in the lab, from coffee and cocoa through dressing and egg yolk to blood and an oil-and-soot mix. The Polster-\/Alcantara Reiniger won with a grade of 1.1 and the tester's note that it leaves no stains behind. In 2025 the same thing happened at Taxi heute against five rivals.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOdour out, not odour over the top.\u003c\/strong\u003e Dr. Wack names spilt milk as the hard case itself, and the stink does not come from the milk, it comes from what bacteria make of its protein. The enzymes in the foam take their food supply away. After up to 5 minutes of dwell time you pick up both with the towel, the stain and the cause behind it.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFive material groups out of one can.\u003c\/strong\u003e Approved are fabric upholstery and velour, Alcantara, carpet and floor mats, door and side trim with vinyl covering, plus the headliner. The headliner in particular is more than a footnote. It is glued, and too much liquid loosens the adhesive before it loosens the stain. A foam that stays up on top is the only sensible format there.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e We get a lot of questions about stains that are back once everything has dried. Usually the cleaning was right and the drying was wrong. Under the cover sits a block of seat foam that stores moisture and hands it back upwards as it dries, along with whatever is still in it. The counter-move is on no label: at the end, lay a dry white cotton towel on the spot, weigh it down with a book and leave it there for 20 to 30 minutes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe ring comes from the towel, not from the can\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA water ring does not form while you spray, it forms while it dries, on the border between damp and dry, where the last of the moisture dumps the dirt it was carrying.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAny paper napkin with a coffee stain on it proves the point. The edge is darker than the middle, because as the liquid evaporates it runs outwards and drops everything it dissolved where it disappears last. The same thing happens in upholstery. So you wipe from the outer edge of the damp patch towards the middle, instead of leaving that edge as the last wet spot.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe run-up to that is short. Vacuum the loose stuff out so no sand gets rubbed into the weave. Shake the can hard. Spray the dirty area evenly and let it soak in for up to 5 minutes. Then work with a damp microfibre or terry towel and firm pressure, turning the towel several times and rinsing it out. A saturated towel has stopped cleaning, it is only moving dirt around.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAt the end, wipe damp until no more foam forms, then go over it once dry. That step looks cosmetic and is not. Surfactants left in the weave are wetting agents, they pull in moisture and dust, and the spot then dirties up again faster than it did before. A flat, overlocked \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/dr-wack-a1-all-in-one-mikrofasertuch-mikrofasertuch\"\u003emicrofibre towel\u003c\/a\u003e shears through the pile better than a high-pile one, which mostly just soaks the foam up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTwo things are on no label. A can that has stood out in the cold overnight sprays coarse and dripping wet, because the internal pressure drops with the temperature, so let it come up to room temperature first. And work with the doors open: whatever moisture you put in has to be able to get back out of the cabin.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-polster-alcantara-reiniger-pro-textilreiniger_anwendung.jpg?v=1787867876\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"A1 Polster-\/Alcantara Reiniger Pro being sprayed evenly across the Alcantara seat cushion\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhat sits in the seat foam, the foam cleaner will not get out\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe cleaner works in the pile and the top few millimetres of the weave, it goes no deeper, and whatever has run through into the seat foam stays there.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn fresh and part-dried stains this is still exactly where it lives. The eight test soilings at AUTO BILD were the everyday programme: coffee, cocoa, dressing, egg yolk, porridge with chocolate, plus blood and an oil-and-soot mix. The testers recorded that no stain was left behind once everything had dried.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat testing ran in a lab on standardised panels, though, and not on a seat bolster with six years of skin grease in it. If you are hunting for real-world reports, know the difference: a grade tells you how well the chemistry works under identical conditions. How many passes your seat needs, it does not tell you.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe first limit is volume. The cup of coffee that went right down into the cushion is sitting in the foam core, and the trade calls its route back to the surface wicking. The only thing that helps there is spray extraction, a wet vac that puts water in and pulls it straight back out in the same pass. Stain means can. Soaked through means wet vac.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe second limit is the material. This foam has no business on pigmented smooth leather, because leather gets cleaned through its top coat, with little moisture and without the firm pressure Dr. Wack explicitly asks for here. The third limit the testers name themselves: the dwell time is long for an aerosol cleaner. If you want a floor mat done in two minutes, you have picked the wrong product.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn a full interior the maths tips over as well. Four seats, door cards and floor mats in one go are the wrong job for a 400 ml can. Then a \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/koch-chemie-colourlock-pol-star-reinigerkonzentrat-textil-leder-alcantara\"\u003ecleaner concentrate for textile and Alcantara\u003c\/a\u003e is the more sensible pick, because you dilute it and get many times the working solution out of the same bottle size. In that same AUTO BILD test it was this concentrate that took the value-for-money win, while the test win went to the can.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAlcantara asks for cleaning more often than leather, not less\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAlcantara never sits on the boot bulkhead in a car, it sits on the surfaces your hands touch most: seat bolsters, steering wheel rim, gear surround, centre console, and on sports models the headliner.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eLeather has a closed top coat, so skin grease stays on top of it and comes away with a damp cloth. The pile of a microfibre non-woven is open. Grease runs down between the fibres, sticks them together and lays them flat against the surface. The light then comes back in one direction instead of scattering, and the spot picks up that familiar greasy sheen.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat is also where the colour-refreshing effect Dr. Wack talks about sits. No dye is being added. The cleaner takes the grease out from between the fibres, brushing lifts the pile back up and it scatters the light like it did on day one. The colour was never gone, it was lying flat. So once everything is properly dry, brush the pile through in one direction with a soft brush.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne caveat belongs with that. Sheen from grease comes off, sheen from fibres crushed flat does not. Scrub back and forth soaking wet and at full force and you felt the pile mechanically, and no cleaner brings that back. That is why the manufacturer says pressure and not speed: short, directed strokes with weight behind them, no circles.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you only want to keep floor mats and the boot carpet clean, a simpler \u003ca href=\"\/en\/collections\/textilreiniger\"\u003etextile cleaner\u003c\/a\u003e gets you just as far. The extra you pay for this can pays off on Alcantara, light velour and the headliner, not on black needle felt in the footwell.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe last point belongs to drying, because that is where the most expensive mistake happens. A seat that is damp in the evening and stands overnight in a closed car smells musty two days later. So exactly the thing you bought the product to deal with.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePut the upholstery job on a day when the car can stand open for a few hours afterwards, and only put the floor mats back once they are dry through. Laid back in damp, the mat dries on top and keeps the carpet underneath wet for days. That is the source of the classic old-car smell, which most people pin on the year of manufacture rather than on the last clean.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"A1\"","offers":[{"title":"400 ml","offer_id":54707194134863,"sku":"D1-DRW-2791","price":13.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-polster-alcantara-reiniger-pro-textilreiniger.png?v=1787867319"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-s100-sitzbank-pflege-motorradpflege","title":"\"S100\" seat care for motorcycles","description":"\u003ch2 data-start=\"644\" data-end=\"730\"\u003eDr. Wack S100 seat care – your shortcut to a clean, well-kept motorcycle seat\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"732\" data-end=\"771\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"4\" data-end=\"28\"\u003eS100 seat care\u003c\/strong\u003e makes it dead easy to keep your motorcycle seat clean, bring the colour back to life and keep the surface grippy – with extra UV protection against fading. Your seat wins on every front: material, looks and comfort in the saddle.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul data-start=\"803\" data-end=\"934\"\u003e\n\u003cli data-start=\"803\" data-end=\"846\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"805\" data-end=\"846\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"0\" data-end=\"20\" data-is-only-node=\"\"\u003eDeep-down clean\u003c\/strong\u003e – pulls deep-seated dirt out of plastic and leather for good\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli data-start=\"847\" data-end=\"890\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"849\" data-end=\"890\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"0\" data-end=\"21\" data-is-only-node=\"\"\u003eFeeds and protects\u003c\/strong\u003e – puts vital nutrients back into the material and stops it going brittle\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli data-start=\"891\" data-end=\"934\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"893\" data-end=\"934\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"0\" data-end=\"23\" data-is-only-node=\"\"\u003eUV protection built in\u003c\/strong\u003e – guards against fading from the sun\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr data-start=\"936\" data-end=\"939\"\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-start=\"947\" data-end=\"979\"\u003eCleaning \u0026amp; deep action\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"981\" data-end=\"1061\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"4\" data-end=\"28\"\u003eS100 seat care\u003c\/strong\u003e lifts dirt right out of the seat material – plastic or leather, it makes no difference. The surface stays nicely grippy, so you keep a solid seat even when you push on. Using it couldn't be simpler: spray on, let it sit for a moment, then wipe off with a clean cloth. That's it – your seat comes up fresh and ready to ride.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-start=\"1063\" data-end=\"1090\"\u003eColour \u0026amp; flexibility\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"1092\" data-end=\"1172\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eA real head-turner: the \u003cstrong data-start=\"26\" data-end=\"46\"\u003ecolour refresh\u003c\/strong\u003e brings dull, faded seats back to life. At the same time it feeds the material to stop it drying out and going brittle – for a supple surface that stays that way and won't let you down.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-start=\"1174\" data-end=\"1217\"\u003eUV protection \u0026amp; Made in Germany quality\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"1219\" data-end=\"1299\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eWith its built-in \u003cstrong data-start=\"24\" data-end=\"37\"\u003eUV protection\u003c\/strong\u003e, \u003cstrong data-start=\"50\" data-end=\"74\"\u003eS100 seat care\u003c\/strong\u003e shields your material from sun and fading over the long haul – exactly what you want if you spend your days riding in the sun. And \"Made in Germany\" says it all on quality: research, development, production and service all come out of Bavaria – with awards to show for it, like \"Motorrad Best Brand 2023\".\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"S100\"","offers":[{"title":"100ml","offer_id":54707239846223,"sku":"D1-DRW-2130","price":8.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 100 ml","offer_id":55725349470543,"sku":"D1-DRW-2130_2","price":17.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 100 ml","offer_id":55725349503311,"sku":"D1-DRW-2130_3","price":26.97,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"12x 100 ml","offer_id":55725349536079,"sku":"D1-DRW-2130_12","price":107.88,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/S100-SBP-100ml_1500x1500_bbbd2949-2843-42d3-8163-d13836c06f8d.png?v=1742507230"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-a1-applikations-schwamm-zubehoer","title":"A1 \"Applikations-Schwamm\" Applicator sponge (microfibre)","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eThe A1 \"Application Sponge\" applies care products thinly and evenly\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is the A1 \"Application Sponge\"? An application sponge with a soft microfiber cover that distributes waxes, sealants, and care products both inside and out—on paint as well as grained plastic and smooth leather. It is not intended for polishes or as a wipe-off cloth. Buffing remains the task of the microfiber.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eA1 \"Application Sponge\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is an application sponge from Dr. Wack with a core made of soft polyurethane foam and a cover made of extra-soft microfibers. The foam is open-pored and holds liquid in its cells like a kitchen sponge. In practical terms, this means: the cover releases the product evenly, the core provides a continuous supply, and you interrupt your work less often for re-dosing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe difference compared to a cloth becomes apparent wherever a surface is not smooth. Grained plastic is embossed with peaks and valleys so that it doesn't look like bare plastic. A firm sponge only touches the peaks. Whatever is left lying on top dries as a lighter-colored streak. The soft cover settles into the texture and also fills the valleys.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-applikations-schwamm-zubehoer_anwendung.png?v=1787867767\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"A1 Application Sponge applying spray wax to black paint\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\n\u003cstrong\u003eFour product groups, one tool.\u003c\/strong\u003e Dr. Wack approves this sponge for waxes, sealants, plastic care, and leather care, specifically naming four A1 products. The two foam sponges in the line do not have this range. One is developed for a single spray wax, the other for polishes. Only this one covers both interior and exterior use.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\n\u003cstrong\u003eSmooth sliding even where things get matte.\u003c\/strong\u003e Matte surfaces scatter light because their surface is rough, and rough means friction. A hard applicator catches on them, you apply more pressure, and that is exactly where the even film breaks. The extra-soft fibers glide even on matted plastic. You can tell by this: for the plastic deep cleaner, the data sheet states a 5-minute exposure time, and the entire surface must be evenly covered within these 5 minutes.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe second pass costs nothing extra.\u003c\/strong\u003e For the plastic deep cleaner, Dr. Wack advises a second application after about 30 minutes, because the result then lasts significantly longer. The sponge is still soaked by then, so you hardly need to re-dose. After the work is done, wash it out with warm water and dry it without fabric softener. Softener leaves a film on the fibers and removes the very absorbency for which you bought it.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePro-tip from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e We often receive inquiries about perforated leather where the seat has dark spots after care. Perforations are the rows of holes through which the seat heating and ventilation operate. This means for you: whatever is too much on the surface collects underneath and dries there. The product is rarely to blame, usually a sponge that is too full. Dose 2 to 3 sprays, start at the bolster, and do the perforated section last with the remainder in the cover.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003e\"Economical\" is in the data sheet. The sponge makes it possible.\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDr. Wack writes the same instruction on the product information sheet for plastic deep cleaner and leather care: apply evenly and sparingly. Which applicator is in your hand determines whether both can be achieved together.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBeing economical on its own is easy. You take little product and go over the surface, creating streaks. Being even on its own is also easy. You take plenty and apply a rich film that then leaves a greasy shine where it is too thick. Both together require a tool that carries a small amount over a large area without absorbing it all itself.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe procedure is the same for all approved products. 2 to 3 sprays go into the cover, not onto the component. Afterwards, pull in overlapping strips instead of moving in circles, because a strip has one visible edge and a circle has four. For \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/dr-wack-a1-kunststoff-tiefenpfleger-kunststoffpflege-matt\"\u003eplastic care\u003c\/a\u003e, an exposure time of about 5 minutes follows, after which you wipe off with a dry microfiber cloth. For leather, the waiting time depends on the absorbency of the zone.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor leather, the sequence is also a deciding factor. Dr. Wack expressly approves the A1 Leather Care for punched and perforated leather. Whether the rows of holes clog is determined by the application and not the formula, and for this, an applicator is needed that releases product instead of dumping it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn the exterior, only the quantity changes, not the process. With A1 HIGH END Spray Wax and Speed Wax Plus 3, you work panel by panel, one door or half a hood at a time, and lay the film so thinly that it does not yet reflect during application. On mirror caps and wheel arch edges, turn the sponge to the narrow side instead of pressing it flat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne point is almost always overlooked regarding matte surfaces: the sponge can be damp, but the component must not be. On damp plastic, the care film floats instead of absorbing, and dries patchily. And do not work in direct sunlight. On a heated bumper, the first pass sets before you have even applied the second.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-applikations-schwamm-zubehoer_anwendung_5.png?v=1787867789\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"Distributing plastic care on the dashboard with the A1 Application Sponge\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe Application Sponge applies. It cannot buff or wipe off.\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDr. Wack expressly excludes the processing of polishes. A cover made of extra-soft fibers cannot bundle the pressure that an abrasive polishing grain needs to work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe reason lies in the design, not the quality. Polishing thrives on manual pressure, which remains in the sponge body and is transferred to the grain. A soft cover cushions exactly that. You then distribute the polish instead of buffing it in, and what remains is a haze instead of a finish. For this job, the line has its own dedicated sponge.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe second limit is on the data sheets of the target products themselves, though rarely read. As an accessory for plastic deep cleaner and leather care, Dr. Wack recommends the A1 ALL in ONE microfiber cloth, not the A1 \"Application Sponge.\" This is not a contradiction. The sponge applies the product; the cloth removes the excess. Anyone who only buys the sponge has solved the application but left the removal pending.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnd it doesn't reach everywhere. A palm-sized block doesn't fit into seams, grooves, and the edge between the seat cushion and bolster. There, you work with a cloth over your index finger. If you want to cover a surface, use the sponge. If you are working out a seam or a narrow wheel arch edge, use the cloth or one of the narrow \u003ca href=\"\/en\/collections\/applikatoren\"\u003eapplicators\u003c\/a\u003e from the range.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-applikations-schwamm-zubehoer_anwendung_6.png?v=1787867793\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"A1 Application Sponge on perforated leather seat with visible perforation\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAnyone who does leather and trim themselves buys it twice.\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAn applicator absorbs what it last carried. Anyone working with leather care on the interior and spray wax on the exterior should logically separate the two into two sponges.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is not a precaution, but a matter of working time. A cover still containing jojoba oil from leather care will apply wax unevenly for the first two passes. You then spend half a hood cleaning the sponge instead of sealing. Trim is the more critical part here. The black exterior parts—bumper aprons, wheel arch trims, mirror bases—are exactly the surfaces where residual foreign product remains as a haze.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor whom is a second sponge worth it? For everyone who does the interior and exterior themselves and uses more than one care product. If you only use \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/dr-wack-a1-leder-pflege-lederpflege\"\u003eleather care\u003c\/a\u003e once a year and nothing else, one is enough. That is not modesty, but simple math. A second applicator only pays off if it is used regularly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWe often see that organization fails not because of the product, but because of storage. Two identical-looking sponges on the same shelf are indistinguishable after four weeks. A line with a permanent marker on the back is enough; then interior and exterior stay separated without you having to think when grabbing them from the shelf.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe fact that a single applicator is approved for paint, plastic, and leather, while the two foam sponges in the line remain tied to a single product, is a decision by the application technology team in Baar-Ebenhausen. It is also the reason for the microfiber cover instead of an exposed foam structure.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne thing is not in any data sheet. Give the sponge 10 seconds before the first pull: after dosing, squeeze it once in your hand and let it expand again. The product then sits in the entire cover instead of in one spot, and the first pass looks like the last. It is precisely on this first pass that edges are created that no one can explain afterwards.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"A1\"","offers":[{"title":"Gray \/ 1 piece","offer_id":58086545129807,"sku":"D1-DRW-8193","price":6.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-applikations-schwamm-zubehoer.png?v=1787867149"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-a1-leder-set-inkl-microfasertuch-lederpflege-set","title":"A1 \"Leder-Set\" Leather Care Set","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eThe Dr. Wack leather care set turns two bottles into one work process\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is the Dr. Wack A1 \"Leather Set\"? A leather care set consisting of A1 Leather Cleaner and A1 Leather Care, each in a 250-milliliter bottle, plus a premium microfiber cloth in a folding box. It covers both steps required by pigmented smooth leather and synthetic leather. It is not a repair kit, not for suede or Alcantara, and cannot be completed with a single cloth.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThe Dr. Wack A1 \"Leather Set\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is the \u003cstrong\u003eleather care set\u003c\/strong\u003e of the A1 line: a folding box containing the A1 Leather Cleaner and the A1 Leather Care, each in a 250-milliliter dropper bottle, plus a premium microfiber cloth. What is sold here is not the sum of two bottles, but a sequence. The cleaner removes the grease film, the care product provides the protection, and neither step achieves anything on its own.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHow closely the two belong together is stated in their respective product information sheets. The sheet for the Leather Cleaner lists four product advantages, and three of them are about the Leather Care: the cleaner prepares the leather ideally for the subsequent treatment, only deep-pore cleaning allows the care components to penetrate, and this results in protection against aging. A data sheet that dedicates three-quarters of its arguments to the other bottle does not describe a single product.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe same applies in reverse. According to its sheet, the Leather Care should be applied to a cleaned and dried surface, and directly under the application instructions, there is a tip from the manufacturer: Depending on the condition of the leather, Dr. Wack recommends using the Leather Cleaner beforehand. Two sheets, two references, one process. Both are developed and produced at the same location in Baar-Ebenhausen, so it is no coincidence that they are coordinated with one another. The set turns the process into a regimen.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n\n\u003cli\u003e\n\n\u003cstrong\u003eTwo 250-milliliter dropper bottles.\u003c\/strong\u003e In the folding box, the cleaner and care product sit side by side in equal quantities, accompanied by the premium microfiber cloth. Neither bottle has a spray head. This is not a cost-cutting measure, but the condition for Dr. Wack’s explicit approval for use on perforated leather: whatever is dosed via a cloth does not run into the ventilation holes of the seats.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\u003cli\u003e\n\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe three test wins belong to the pair.\u003c\/strong\u003e The GTÜ ranked the combination 1st out of 10 with 239 out of 300 points in March 2014, 1st out of 12 with 227 out of 300 in November 2013, and Auto Bild Sportscars ranked it 1st out of 7 in issue 12\/2013. testberichte.de summarizes this into an overall grade of 1.3. Each time, the combination of both bottles was evaluated, never just one. A note on this context: these tests are now over ten years old.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\u003cli\u003e\n\n\u003cstrong\u003eOne cloth is included, but the instructions list four tasks.\u003c\/strong\u003e Cleaning, wiping off, applying care, buffing care. For these four steps, both product information sheets name a specific tool: a cloth, fine-pored sponge, or soft brush. There is only one cloth in the box. Those who know this beforehand will keep two additional ones ready to finish in one pass instead of two.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\n\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePro-tip from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e We often see the included cloth being used for all four tasks, getting dirtier from step to step. Assign it only one task: applying the care product, the cleanest step. A cloth that has previously carried the cleaner will drag surfactant residues into the fresh protective film, preventing the bonding you are applying it for. Two simple household cloths are sufficient for the cleaning phase. We mark the set's cloth with a stitch of sewing thread so it never ends up in the wrong pile.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe cleaner opens the surface, the care product closes it\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBoth bottles belong in the same session. Ideally, there should be a drying break between the last cleaning area and the first care application, not a whole weekend.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFreshly cleaned smooth leather is at its most vulnerable: the top layer is bare, the old protective film is gone, and there is no barrier against new jeans abrasion. It is a freshly sanded surface waiting for its varnish. Anyone who drives the car for two weeks like this hasn't slowed down the wear, but accelerated it for two weeks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe other direction costs you protection immediately. A grease and surfactant film on the top layer acts as a release agent, just like the agent used in a mold to ensure nothing sticks. For you, this means: the care film will not bond to the leather, but will sit on the dirt and come off with the next sleeve. You expected it to last for months, but it lasted until Tuesday.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe sequence follows the same logic you know from car paint. Before any sealant is applied, a panel wipe is used on the surface—a degreaser that leaves the surface truly bare, because a layer is only as good as what it sits on. The cleaner’s second step, wiping down with a cloth dampened only with water, is exactly this step for the interior. You can also find both bottles individually in the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/collections\/dr-wack-lederpflege\"\u003eleather care range from Dr. Wack\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor both bottles, work in small sections rather than over an entire seat, and both times it is the cloth, not the bottle, that does the dosing. On perforated leather, Dr. Wack explicitly prescribes a soft, absorbent cloth for the care product rather than a sponge, because a sponge releases more liquid than the surface can absorb.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eOne cloth in the set does not cover four tasks\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe box covers the chemistry completely, but not the tools. Two bottles, one cloth, and the two sets of instructions specify four separate tool roles.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe cleaner sheet specifies a sponge or a clean, soft, lint-free cloth for application and a second, damp cloth for wiping down. The care sheet specifies a fine-pored sponge for the surface, an absorbent cloth for perforated leather, and a cloth or soft brush for buffing. Neither a sponge nor a brush is included in the set.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWith only one cloth, you drag the loosened dirt through all four steps. This is how you lose a leather cleaning session without noticing it on the same day: the surface looks good when damp, and two days later the dark line along the seam is back where you wiped it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTwo other limitations are set. Dr. Wack excludes suede, nubuck, and Alcantara for both bottles, and the folding box does not change that. And nothing is being repaired here. If the top layer on the bolster is worn through and the backing is exposed, color is missing, and there is no color in either bottle. That belongs in the hands of a leather specialist.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe third limitation is a blank space in the data sheet. Dr. Wack does not quantify a durability period—that is, how many months the protective film lasts—and we do not speculate. If you want a layer that you apply once a year and leave alone, you are looking for a leather sealant. If you want to keep the factory surface clean and supple, this pair is built exactly for that.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eYou buy the set once, and the refills individually\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTwo bottles of the same size, two unequal consumption rates. Which one runs out first is decided by your vehicle, and this also decides your second order.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe cleaner goes where there is a grease film: steering wheel rim, entry bolster, center armrest. The care product goes over every surface that needs protection, including the rear bench seat and door panels, which the cleaner often never even sees. Per pass, the care product therefore covers many times the surface area. Anyone who cleans more frequently than they care for the leather will reverse this ratio.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis leads to a simple purchasing rule. The set is the right initial purchase because you get both steps, two coordinated quantities, and the cloth in one box, and you don’t yet know your own consumption. Refills are the right second purchase: if the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/dr-wack-a1-leder-reiniger-lederreiniger\"\u003eA1 \"Leather Cleaner\"\u003c\/a\u003e is still half-full on the shelf while the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/dr-wack-a1-leder-pflege-lederpflege\"\u003eA1 \"Leather Care\"\u003c\/a\u003e is empty, order the care product individually and not a second leather care set.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou also buy individually if one of the two bottles is already in your possession, if only the steering wheel rim in your car is real leather and the rest is fabric, or if your upholstery is predominantly Alcantara. In all three cases, the set contains a bottle you will barely touch.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe leather care set is the right choice for vehicles with pigmented smooth leather or synthetic leather that is still intact, and for anyone who is treating their leather thoroughly for the first time. The first pass over the steering wheel, front seats, and doors takes longer than you plan because you work in small sections and change cloth sides in between. The second time, you will be significantly faster. That is part of the process and not a sign that you are doing something wrong.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe strongest indication this set gives you is on the two empty bottles at the end. If the cleaner is empty first, your interior has a contact problem, and it is better to clean more often than you care for it. If the care product is empty first, it is mainly sun and heat working against your leather, and then your main maintenance appointment should be at the start of the warm months rather than in October. You won't get this diagnosis from any data sheet, only from your own consumption.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"A1\"","offers":[{"title":"1 piece","offer_id":58086545228111,"sku":"D1-DRW-2511","price":24.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-leder-set-inkl-microfasertuch-lederpflege-set.png?v=1787867304"}],"url":"https:\/\/detailing1.pl\/en\/collections\/dr-wack-innenraum-leder.oembed","provider":"Detailing1","version":"1.0","type":"link"}