{"title":"SONAX","description":"\u003ch2\u003eSONAX: Premium cleaning \u0026amp; car care products for perfectionists, from the market leader\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eStep into the world of SONAX car care:\u003c\/strong\u003e Sonax gives you a full line-up of top-tier cleaning and care products for your car. Paint, interior, wheels or tyres – Sonax delivers a flawless finish and protects your car for the long haul.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003col\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eTop quality\u003c\/strong\u003e: Proven formulas and smart technology that get you professional results.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePlenty of choice\u003c\/strong\u003e: Products tuned to every surface on your car and every job.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEasy to use\u003c\/strong\u003e: User-friendly products that go on easily and give you the best care.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ol\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eFlawless paint care with SONAX\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSONAX has a wide range for paint care, from shampoos and polishes to sealants. These products don't just pull off dirt and grime – they also protect your paint from the elements.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eInterior cleaning at the highest level\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor the inside, SONAX has dedicated cleaners and care products. They leave the cabin fresh and clean, lift dirt reliably and protect materials like leather, plastic and fabric.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eShining wheels and well-kept tyres\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWith SONAX wheel cleaners and tyre care, your wheels come up gleaming and your tyres stay supple and crack-free for longer. These products are built to shift stubborn brake dust and road grime.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c!----\u003e","products":[{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-polish-wax-3-politur","title":"XTREME Polish+Wax 3 Polish","description":"\u003ch2\u003eFine scratches and hazing gone, paint sealed — with the SONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 3\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does a finishing polish actually do? This light combination polish pulls out fine scratches, hazing and oxidation — and seals the paint in the same step with Hybrid NetProtection Technology for lasting protection and real depth of gloss.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eNot every paint defect calls for an aggressive cutting compound. If you want to freshen up paint that is already in good shape, or clear the fine water spots and hazing left behind after winter, you do not need a heavy cutting product — you need a finishing polish that works gently and protects at the same time. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 3\u003c\/strong\u003e is exactly that: a light combination polish that pulls fine scratches, swirl marks and oxidation haze out of the clear coat and seals it in one single pass with Hybrid NetProtection Technology. The result is mirror gloss with depth — without loading the paint more than it needs. As the finest member of the XTREME Polish+Wax range, it is the logical pick for the last polishing stage in a multi-step workflow, or as a stand-alone product on cars whose paint is still healthy.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSo what does \"light cut\" mean in practice? Clear coat has a limited film thickness — on most cars somewhere between 30 and 60 microns. Every polish takes a slice of that. An aggressive cutting compound can remove 5–10 microns in a single pass, a fine finishing polish less than 1–2 microns. That makes a real difference to how long the paint lasts: with the right polish at the right strength you can keep the clear coat in shape year after year without the film thickness dropping into awkward territory. This is where a well-graded set of polishes pays off — and the Polish+Wax 3 fills exactly the slot most car owners are missing: the gentle, regularly usable finishing polish with a sealant built in.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLight cut for gentle paint correction.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Polish+Wax 3 runs fine abrasives that pull surface scratches and micro-marring out of the clear coat without digging deeper than they have to. That makes it the safe pick for soft paint, older cars, or as the closing step after a harder cutting stage.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHybrid NetProtection Technology — polish and seal in one.\u003c\/strong\u003e The NPT sealant in the bottle ties inorganic and organic protection components into a weather-resistant network right on the paint. That saves you a separate wax or sealant pass and still gives you measurable water beading and protection against the elements.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDeep gloss and colour brilliance as the end result.\u003c\/strong\u003e The mix of fine abrasion and the sealant that follows leaves a mirror finish with real depth. On dark paint especially, the difference to an untreated or merely waxed panel jumps straight out — the paint looks fresh, rich and three-dimensional.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Run the Polish+Wax 3 by machine with a soft finishing pad — low to medium speed, light pressure. That spreads the cut evenly without stressing the clear coat. Working by hand? Small sections (30 × 30 cm), cross-hatch passes, medium pressure as you work the product in. Once it has flashed off (the surface goes slightly dull), buff it back — that is when the full gloss shows up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHybrid NetProtection Technology — the sealant formula behind the Polish+Wax 3\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHybrid NetProtection Technology (NPT) is the technical heart of the whole XTREME Polish+Wax range. Behind the name sits a sealing approach that links organic and inorganic protection components together — think of a chemical network built straight onto the clear coat. Inorganic components such as silicon-based compounds are hard, UV-stable and shield against mechanical attack from dirt and water. Organic components such as waxes or polymers are flexible, grip the paint well and deliver that typical gloss and soft feel underhand. Linking both systems gives you a protective layer that is neither too rigid nor too soft — it moves with temperature swings, it stays put, and it invites water to bead. For you that means one product, two jobs. No separate waxing, no separate sealing after polishing. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 3\u003c\/strong\u003e closes both steps in one pass and still lands a result that can hold its own against a sealant applied afterwards.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSo where is the difference between the Polish+Wax 3 and other one-step products? The key is the quality of the abrasives. Cheap combination polishes often lean on coarse abrasive bonds that show quick results but hit the paint harder. The fine abrasives in the Polish+Wax 3 are sized to work through hazing, water marks and swirls effectively without cutting into deeper layers of clear coat. That looks after the material long term and lets you reach for the bottle regularly without worrying about thinning the clear coat over the years — a decisive edge over stronger cutting compounds in continuous use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne more plus: the product is easy to control. Where aggressive polishes can burn through an edge or a body line in seconds, this fine formulation is forgiving — even if you are less experienced, the risk of over-polishing stays low. The NPT sealant that builds up during the polishing pass needs no curing time like a ceramic product and no separate coat — it forms as you polish and is active the moment you buff off. That simplifies the whole routine and makes the Polish+Wax 3 a dependable all-rounder for regular paint care.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the XTREME Polish+Wax 3 — step by step to a mirror finish\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBefore any polish comes a proper wash: get the dirt, road film and loose grit off the paint — ideally with a two-bucket wash or a foam wash, so nothing abrasive stays behind on the panel. If you want the maximum out of it, run an iron decontamination step before polishing to pull embedded iron particles. The polishing pass with the Polish+Wax 3 then happens on clean, dry paint. The product goes on by machine or by hand: with a polisher (dual action or rotary) and a soft finishing pad you get even results across big panels, while hand application suits smaller corrections or anyone without a machine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe way we recommend: a small blob of product onto the pad, spread it at low speed, then work it in evenly at medium speed. Do not work in direct sun or on hot paint — the product grabs too fast and buffing off gets harder. After working it in, let it flash off briefly (until the surface goes slightly dull) and then buff with a clean microfibre. The result shows immediately: an evenly glossy panel with no residue. The Polish+Wax 3 also suits beginners in paint care — the light colour of the product and the easy dosing make it simple to hit the right amount and avoid going over the same spot too often.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor trim, mirrors or tight sections we recommend a smaller polishing pad or hand application with a folded microfibre. That way you get an even result in awkward spots too, without slinging product onto rubber seals or plastic parts. If you are planning several passes — on a car that has gone a long time without care, say — check the result in proper light (a detailing lamp or daylight) after each pass before you lay down the next one. That saves you pointless repeats and spares both time and material.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere it fits — when the Polish+Wax 3 is the right call\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe XTREME Polish+Wax 3 is ideal for cars whose paint is fundamentally sound but would benefit from a refresh. Typical situations: after the winter break, when leftover grime and water spots have baked into the clear coat; after a cutting stage with a stronger compound, as the closing fine step; or after a drive through sand or fine dust that has left light swirls on the paint. With heavier scratches or deeper oxidation damage — visible grooves, sanding marks, dullness across a whole panel — it runs into its limits. In that case a stronger cutting compound is the right first move, with the Polish+Wax 3 as the finisher.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt works especially well on dark colours such as black, dark blue or graphite metallic — that is where sensitivity to fine scratches and haze is highest, and where the visual payoff of a successful polish is most impressive. On light paint it works just as well, but the before-and-after difference is naturally a bit less dramatic.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt also suits cars with a factory clear-coat sealant or a protective film, as long as the sealant is not already too thick or too hard — in that case, check whether the protective layer is still intact before you polish. After a pass with the Polish+Wax 3, a further sealant is optional, since the NPT technology has already built a layer of protection. If you still want more, you can lay a compatible sealant or a ceramic straight on top — paint that has just been polished and degreased is the ideal base for it. Regular care with the finishing polish in spring and autumn shields the paint through the toughest stretches of the year — after a winter of road salt and before the UV-heavy summer season — and keeps it long term in a state that barely needs correcting.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePolish+Wax 3 compared — where it sits in the SONAX XTREME polish line-up\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe XTREME Polish+Wax line is sorted by cut: the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-xtreme-polish-wax-2-politur\"\u003eXTREME Polish+Wax 2\u003c\/a\u003e offers a medium cut — ideal for hazing, but also for lighter scratches and medium oxidation. The Polish+Wax 3 is the finer option: it corrects less aggressively, which makes it the natural choice for the closing polishing step or for paint that is already well looked after. Both share the Hybrid NPT sealant, they differ in cut. If you want a clean, soft finish after heavy correction with the Polish+Wax 2 or a pro-grade compound, you close the workflow with the Polish+Wax 3 — and tick off polishing and sealing in the same step. This two-stage approach — medium correction first, then refining and sealing — is a proven workflow in professional paint correction, and you can run it with XTREME products without moving up to the pro machine polishing line.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs an alternative, the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-polish-all-in-one-politur\"\u003eXTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\"\u003c\/a\u003e is the modern ceramic option — it combines light abrasion with a ceramic sealant that builds a harder, longer-lasting layer than the NPT technology. If you are after maximum durability from the sealant and still want to polish and protect with one product, the Ceramic Polish takes you a step further. For the regular, simpler refresh with little effort, the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-xtreme-brilliantwax-1-politur-wachsversiegelung\"\u003eXTREME BrilliantWax 1\u003c\/a\u003e is an alternative: a light hand wax polish for quick depth of gloss between care intervals. The Polish+Wax 3 sits between these products — more corrective bite than BrilliantWax, more accessible than a ceramic system. For the systematic detailer who picks products by the state of the paint, it is the natural first pick for the status \"paint in good shape, a few things to tidy up\" — before you decide whether heavier correction is really necessary.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying advice — who the Polish+Wax 3 from SONAX pays off for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 3\u003c\/strong\u003e is the right product for anyone who wants to keep their paint in top shape regularly without reaching for an aggressive compound every time. It suits paint-care beginners looking for a forgiving product, and experienced detailers who use it as the closing stage in a graded polishing workflow. The mix of genuine correction and a built-in long-term sealant makes it one of the most versatile products in the XTREME range. The 500 ml bottle covers several full car treatments and is good value for that. If you care about lasting paint protection and want to take it one step further, run the Polish+Wax 3 as the correction stage and finish with a ceramic sealant for maximum durability.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOur verdict: if you want an all-round paint product that works fast, easily and with a visible result — and seals on top of that — the Polish+Wax 3 has you covered. It is not a tool for heavy correction on deep damage, but for everything that comes after that, or that is needed in between, it has the right format: friendly and forgiving to use, consistent and even in the result, fair on price. It is a particularly good match for cars with paint that is looked after but no longer factory-fresh — the broad middle of the fleet, three to ten years on the road. In that class there is often not much missing from a top result, and the light cut of the Polish+Wax 3 is enough to unlock that potential in full.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":49160876949839,"sku":"D1-SNX-0202200","price":17.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/Sonax-XTREME-Polish-Wax-3-9.png?v=1721514206"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-polster-alcantarareiniger-textilreiniger","title":"XTREME Upholstery+Alcantara Cleaner Textile Cleaner","description":"\u003ch2\u003eDeep-clean fabric seats, Alcantara and headliners — SONAX XTREME Upholstery+Alcantara Cleaner\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat can the SONAX XTREME Upholstery+Alcantara Cleaner do? This foaming cleaner with enzymatic odour control pulls dirt and smells deep out of upholstery, Alcantara, headliners and carpet — without soaking the fabric or leaving rings.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eUpholstery and Alcantara inside the car take a daily beating: seat wear, food spills, sweat residue, pet hair and trapped smells build up in the fibres over months, and a quick vacuum on its own won't get all of it out. What you need is a cleaner that works deep into the fibre structure, breaks dirt down chemically, and at the same time neutralises smells for good — not just masks them. That's exactly what the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Upholstery+Alcantara Cleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e does: a foaming cleaner with enzymatic odour control for every textile surface in the cabin. The 400 ml aerosol can keeps the job simple, and the foam technology gives you a gentle, deep clean without soaking the upholstery through.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFoam technology for a deep clean without soaking the fabric.\u003c\/strong\u003e The fine-pored foam works deep into the fibre structure, lifts embedded dirt and is then brushed out or picked up with a cloth — without overwetting the upholstery. Less moisture means faster drying and no risk of mould if the car isn't well aired.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEnzymatic odour control gets rid of smells for good.\u003c\/strong\u003e Cigarette smoke, pet smells, food odours and sweat aren't just a dirt problem — they're a chemical one: the odour molecules are lodged in the fibres and you can't get rid of them by covering them up. The enzymatic formula breaks down the molecular structure of the substances causing the smell — so you end up with lasting freshness instead of a quick spritz of fragrance.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSafe on Alcantara, no greying or fibre damage.\u003c\/strong\u003e Alcantara reacts badly to the wrong products — anything too harsh can mat the fibres, cause discolouration or kill that soft feel for good. The XTREME Upholstery+Alcantara Cleaner formula is approved for Alcantara and won't change the fibres when you use it properly.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Vacuum the area thoroughly before you start — foam cleaners work better on a surface that's already roughly clean, because they're meant to sink into the fibres, not into loose grit. Always do a whole connected area in one go — the entire seat panel in a single pass, never just the one stain. That keeps drying rings from forming at the edges. After cleaning with a brush or cloth, vacuum the area dry, then leave it to dry with the doors open.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFoam cleaner technology — why foam beats liquid cleaners on upholstery\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eChoosing between a spray liquid and a foam isn't a trivial call on upholstery cleaners. Liquid cleaners flow easily — they sink deep into the upholstery, which on one hand gives you a thorough clean, but on the other brings the risk of soaking the fabric through: seats that take on too much moisture need long drying times and can encourage mould in the foam padding if they don't dry properly. Foam has a controlled viscosity: it clings to the surface and works into the fibre structure without saturating the material. The cleaning agents in it spread evenly through the foam structure and act right where the dirt sits, on the fibre surface. After the dwell time you work the foam out mechanically with a soft brush or a microfibre cloth, and it carries the loosened dirt with it. The result: a more thorough clean with less moisture. For a cabin you want back in use as soon as possible after cleaning, that's a real practical edge. One more thing: foam is easier to apply to vertical and sloped surfaces than liquid cleaners, which would run straight off. That makes the job easier and lower-risk on seat bolsters, door cards and headliners.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe enzymatic side works hand in hand with the mechanical foam cleaning: enzymes are biological catalysts that break down organic substances like proteins (sweat, food residue), fats and odour molecules at the molecular level. That's why enzymatic cleaners work on smells for good — they take out the cause, not the symptom. Compared to purely fragranced interior cleaners that just mask smells, the enzymatic action is far more lasting: the smell doesn't come back, because the molecules causing it are no longer there.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFoam technology also has a safety edge: spraying doesn't throw out coarse droplets that can get in your eyes — the fine foam stays on the surface and doesn't run off where it shouldn't. That makes the job safer and cleaner in the tight cabin than spray liquids. For interior work where you're up close to the surface, that's an everyday point that matters. There's an economic side too: foam goes further than liquid because it bulks up its volume with air and spreads the cleaning agent evenly across the surface without saturating it. A 400 ml can lasts for several full seat cleans.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne more thing that matters day-to-day: anyone who runs the car with pets knows how stubbornly animal and food smells cling to upholstery. The odour molecules are adsorbed by the fibres and settle deep inside the padding — a surface freshen-up with a fragrance spray masks the smell for a bit but doesn't get rid of it. Enzymatic cleaners are the only lasting fix here, because they break down the proteins causing the smell. For dog owners and families with small kids, reaching for an enzymatic foam cleaner regularly is less a luxury than a must for a cabin that stays fresh. Especially in the warmer months, when temperatures in a parked car ramp up smell development, a regular upholstery clean really pays off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHow to use the XTREME Upholstery+Alcantara Cleaner properly\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHow you go about it makes the difference. Start by vacuuming the area thoroughly — a brush attachment lifts surface dust and hair that would otherwise block the foam from reaching deep. Then spray the foam evenly over the surface and work it straight in with a soft upholstery brush or microfibre cloth in circular motions. The foam should visibly froth up and pick up dirt. Important: always do the whole connected area in one pass — half a seat and a stop leaves visible drying rings at the line between cleaned and uncleaned fabric. After a dwell time of 1–3 minutes, lift the foam with a clean cloth or pick it up with a vacuum. On heavily soiled upholstery a second round may be needed. Then leave the area to dry with the windows or doors open — a small fan can cut drying time to under an hour. On Alcantara: use a very soft brush and work with the grain of the fibres, not against it — that stops greying and keeps the soft texture.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHeadliners call for extra care: too much moisture can loosen the adhesive on the trim and cause it to sag. Apply the foam sparingly here, don't let it dwell long, and wipe with only light pressure. A vacuum straight after helps cut the moisture quickly. On badly loosened or yellowed headliners, professional reconditioning is the way to go.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAn often underrated use is cleaning the footwell carpet. Floor mats and carpets in the car pick up dirt, sand, road salt in winter and moisture off shoes over months — and carry all that straight into the carpet fibres. Foam works great here too: the carpet doesn't get soaked, the foam works near the surface in the fibre. After brushing it out, pick it up with a carpet or upholstery attachment on the vacuum. For stubbornly dirty footwells a second pass may be needed. If you've pulled the mats out, you can clean them even more effectively — foam them on a plastic sheet or tarp outside, brush them in, rinse with a little water and leave to dry in the shade. The result is far better than cleaning them in place.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere it works — the materials and situations it suits best\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX XTREME Upholstery+Alcantara Cleaner is built for every textile and Alcantara surface in the cabin: fabric seats and upholstery, Alcantara seat bolsters and steering wheel covers, headliners, carpets and door cards with a textile section. Especially good on dirt from coffee, cola, chocolate, denim rub-off, pet hair and skin oils. The enzymatic odour control makes it particularly valuable on cars shared with pets, used cars with smoke smell baked in, or cars that regularly haul food. What it can't do: deep oil stains, paint and similar inorganic substances — those need dedicated solvent cleaners. Use a separate leather cleaner on leather surfaces; the Upholstery+Alcantara Cleaner isn't meant for smooth leather. On velour and similar velvety surfaces, test on a hidden spot first, as these materials can sometimes react more sensitively to foam cleaners than standard upholstery.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAnother use worth flagging is the seasonal clean after winter. Salt and grit off wet winter shoes settle in the carpet and the lowest layers of the upholstery and can attack the material over time. A thorough spring clean with the upholstery cleaner takes out that residue before it does any lasting damage. At the same time, it neutralises the winter smells that crept in — damp clothes, heater air, dog paws. That makes a spring interior clean one of the most effective steps for a fresh cabin across the whole season. If you do a full interior clean twice a year — spring and autumn — you keep upholstery and materials in a state that means a deep recondition is needed less often.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCompared — XTREME Upholstery+Alcantara Cleaner vs. Stain Remover vs. propellant-free cleaner\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX XTREME range has three upholstery cleaner products, each with a different focus. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-polster-alcantarafleckentferner-polsterreiniger\"\u003eXTREME Upholstery+Alcantara Stain Remover\u003c\/a\u003e is a spot cleaner for tackling single stains — you apply it straight to the stain and can use it without cleaning the whole surface. Ideal for fresh stains or as a first treatment in the car. The SONAX XTREME Upholstery+Alcantara Cleaner, on the other hand, is built for whole-surface cleaning — for when you want to clean the entire seat panel or a larger area. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-polster-alcantarareiniger-treibgasfrei-polsterreiniger\"\u003eXTREME Upholstery+Alcantara Cleaner (propellant-free)\u003c\/a\u003e is the more eco-friendly option without aerosol propellant, with the same cleaning effect. If you'd rather skip aerosol products or work in closed spaces without good ventilation, reach for the propellant-free version. The cleaning effect is comparable. So the choice comes down to the situation: single stain → Stain Remover; whole-surface clean with aerosol → this textile cleaner; whole-surface clean the eco way → propellant-free version.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA smart combo in the detailing workflow is to use both products: first spot-treat fresh or stubborn single stains with the Stain Remover, then freshen the whole surface evenly with the textile cleaner. That saves time, because you don't have to concentrate the foam cleaner on spot-treated areas, and it gives an even result across the whole seat panel with no visible difference between treated and untreated zones. Pro detailers run exactly this two-step method day-to-day and get the best results on upholstery work with it. As a final step after drying, an impregnation spray for upholstery and textiles is worth it — it builds a protective layer that repels new dirt and makes the next clean far easier. That full interior routine — clean, neutralise smells, then impregnate — is the optimum for car textiles that stay fresh long-term.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying advice — when this textile cleaner is the right call\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX XTREME Upholstery+Alcantara Cleaner is for anyone who wants to clean the cabin regularly and thoroughly — whether as part of a seasonal interior clean, after buying a used car, or after heavy use with family, pets or regular food runs. The 400 ml aerosol can lasts for several full interior cleans. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-autoinnenreiniger-innenraumreiniger\"\u003eXTREME Interior Cleaner\u003c\/a\u003e combo — hard\/universal for plastics and soft\/textile for upholstery — covers the whole cabin in one care workflow. For pro detailers doing used-car preps daily, it's a solid standard tool for interior reconditioning. The simple aerosol application lets you work fast, and the reliable odour control solves one of the most common customer gripes on used cars. Next time you're stood in front of a car with a worn cabin that smells of old fabric and smoke, reach for the Upholstery+Alcantara Cleaner — and see what a good enzymatic foam cleaner can do for an interior.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor detailers upgrading used cars: cleaning the interior with a quality foam cleaner is often the single most noticeable step in a used-car prep — customers spot straight away whether a cabin smells fresh and looks clean. That has a big effect on a car's perceived value. With a product like this that works reliably and delivers results in a short time, interior reconditioning isn't just a box to tick but a real quality marker that makes the difference.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBottom line: the textile cleaner is the right call for anyone who wants to deep-clean a whole car interior rather than just treat single stains. The mix of foam technology, enzymatic odour control and Alcantara compatibility makes it the all-rounder for interior cleaning. Once you've seen how a freshly cleaned cabin changes the drive, you won't want to skip a regular upholstery clean again. The 400 ml size is good for 2–4 full interior treatments — depending on the car and how dirty it is. For regular pro work, buying in bigger quantity pays off, so you've always got fresh stock on hand and avoid breaks in the detailing workflow. The aerosol can is easy to store and stays on hand for the next interior clean. Kept cool and dry, the product holds its full effectiveness for a long time — another edge over liquid cleaners, which can lose effect faster once opened.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"400 ml","offer_id":49160877179215,"sku":"D1-SNX-206300","price":10.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/Sonax-XTREME-Polster-AlcantaraReiniger-8.png?v=1721514200"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-polish-wax-2-politur","title":"XTREME Polish+Wax 2 Car Polish","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRemove fine scratches and build lasting deep gloss with SONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 2\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 2 do? This all-in-one polish with a medium cut removes fine wash marks and hazing while sealing at the same time with Hybrid NetProtection Technology — polishing and sealing in one step.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA car with lightly stressed paint — fine wash marks, a bit of hazing, the first UV-induced dullness — doesn't need an aggressive correction compound. What it needs is a product that polishes the paint gently, brings the colour depth back and lays down a protective seal at the same time. That's exactly where the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is strong: an all-in-one polish with a medium cut that pairs fine abrasives with Hybrid NetProtection Technology. The result is mirror-like deep gloss, seriously good water beading and a durable protective layer that goes on in a single pass — no separate sealing round. If you want to refresh your paint regularly without spending hours on correction, the Polish+Wax 2 is the one to grab.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePolishing and sealing in one step — time saved, nothing given up.\u003c\/strong\u003e Most polishes need a separate sealing step once the polishing is done. The Polish+Wax 2 builds Hybrid NetProtection Technology straight into the polish: while the abrasives work the fine scratches out, the NPT components lay down a protective layer at the same time. That saves time and makes sure the freshly polished surface is sealed right away.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMirror-like deep gloss with a proper colour boost.\u003c\/strong\u003e The extremely fine abrasives in the Polish+Wax 2 are tuned for as-new and regularly maintained paint — they level the clearcoat without pulling off more material than needed. What you get is an evenly mirroring surface with deep colour saturation, especially on dark paint.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHybrid NetProtection Technology — a seal that bonds with the paint.\u003c\/strong\u003e NPT links inorganic and organic protective components into a stable network on the paint surface. That network handles the weather better than a simple wax layer and protects long term against UV, acid rain and organic deposits like bug splatter and bird droppings.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Protect plastic and rubber trim before you polish with the XTREME KunststoffGel Außen — polish residue in shut lines and on rubber seals is a pain to get out and leaves white marks. Lay the polish down on dry paint, spread it thin and work it in straight away with a medium-hard microfibre cloth — don't let it dry on. For machine work with a polishing pad set, the Polish+Wax 2 gives especially even results, because the heat from the machine kicks off the NPT cross-linking.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHybrid NetProtection Technology — how polishing and sealing work chemically in one step\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHybrid NetProtection Technology is the chemical heart of the Polish+Wax 2 and explains why the product does more than a simple \"polish with a bit of wax in it\". Conventional all-in-one polishes use wax as the sealing component — that works, but wax layers are comparatively short-lived and sensitive to alkaline cleaners and UV. Hybrid NPT takes a different route: it combines inorganic protective components (similar to the ones used in mineral sealants) with organic polymers to form a hybrid network. That hybrid structure bonds more strongly to the clearcoat than pure wax and stays more flexible than purely inorganic sealants, which crack sooner under mechanical stress. The result is a protective layer that brings together the best of both worlds: the chemical resistance of inorganic compounds and the mechanical flexibility of organic polymers.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe abrasives in the Polish+Wax 2 are set up for a medium cut — they take out fine scratches in depth class 1 to 2 (wash marks, brush strikes, light holograms) without digging into the clearcoat. That's an important difference to more aggressive compounds used on heavily weathered or deeply damaged paint: a gentle cut protects the clearcoat from losing too much material and extends the life of the paint. On as-new cars and regularly maintained paint, the medium cut of the Polish+Wax 2 is the right way into paint care — treat your paint twice a year with it and you keep it in as-new condition long term, without burning through your clearcoat reserve.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA common misunderstanding: that an all-in-one polish is less effective than separate polishing and sealing steps. That's not true across the board. On badly neglected paint with deep scratches and an oxidised surface, a multi-stage correction with an aggressive cutting compound, a finishing polish and a separate sealant makes sense. For everything else — as-new paint, regular maintenance polishing, a seasonal refresh — an all-in-one polish is the more efficient answer. It saves time, cuts the number of products you need and delivers results that are more than enough for everyday use. The Polish+Wax 2 closes the gap between \"not polishing at all\" and \"a professional multi-step correction\" perfectly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the Polish+Wax 2 properly — step by step to deep gloss\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWorking with the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 2\u003c\/strong\u003e always starts with a thorough wash. Dirt, grit and brake dust left on the paint act like sandpaper when you polish and cut scratches far worse than what you started with. After the wash, dry the car completely — polishes work far better on dry paint and grip more evenly. Before you start, protect plastic and rubber areas with masking tape or the XTREME KunststoffGel so no polish residue creeps into the shut lines.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe polish goes onto a SONAX applicator sponge or a polishing ball and gets spread over the paint in even, overlapping passes. Technique decides the result here: straight back-and-forth or lightly crossing lines beat circular motions, which can leave holograms. Lay the polish down thin and even — too much product only makes the wipe-off harder and doesn't improve anything. Split the paint into sections you can handle: bonnet, roof, boot lid, one side at a time. Once it's spread, wipe it off straight away with a clean, medium-hard microfibre cloth, before the polish dries on. Dried residue is a pain to get out and can leave streaks. For the best finish, go over the panel again after the wipe-off with a second, fresh microfibre and buff it dry — that second pass pulls the last residues off and brings out the full gloss the NPT seal makes possible.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA classic mistake when working by hand is too much pressure. Polishes don't need you to lean on them — the chemical action of the abrasives is enough to level fine scratches. Too much pressure builds heat, which breaks the abrasives down too fast and cures the sealing components too early, before they've spread evenly across the paint. Light, even pressure with calm, overlapping passes is the recipe for consistent results. Working outdoors, watch out for direct sun: if the paint is hot (above about 30°C), move into the shade or wait for it to cool, because the heat cuts your working time right down and dry spots can form.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Polish+Wax 2 is explicitly suited to machine work. A dual-action polisher with a medium-hard pad gives more even results than working by hand, because the machine keeps the pressure and the speed constant. One thing that matters: prime the pad fully with polish before you start, so the first pass doesn't run dry. After machine work, buff to a high gloss with a fresh microfibre. The water beading from the NPT seal shows after the very first application — by the first rain at the latest you'll see the classic lotus effect on the freshly treated paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere it fits — when the Polish+Wax 2 is the right call\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Polish+Wax 2 was developed for a clearly defined job and it delivers there: as-new cars (0–3 years) with fine everyday scratches, regularly maintained cars that need a seasonal refresh (spring care after winter, autumn care before the salt season), and paint with light UV-induced hazing. For that range the medium cut is exactly right: it clears the defects that are there completely and leaves no unnecessary damage in the clearcoat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhere the Polish+Wax 2 stops: for deep scratches, heavy oxidation, orange peel or strong holograms you need a stronger cutting stage. The XTREME Polish+Wax 3 has a stronger cut and is the right choice for harder-worn paint — often the combination of Polish+Wax 3 as the first step and Polish+Wax 2 as the finishing step is the most professional way through neglected paint. And on fresh factory paint that's still \"green\" and shows no defects at all, a pure sealant with no polishing step is the better call, so you don't stress the paint for nothing. In those cases the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-protect-shine-hochglanz-versiegelung\"\u003eXTREME Protect+Shine high-gloss sealant\u003c\/a\u003e without abrasives is the product for the job.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Polish+Wax 2 really shines on dark paint — black, dark blue, dark grey — because those colours show deep gloss and colour saturation most clearly. Light paint (white, silver) benefits too, but the difference between treated and untreated is far more dramatic on dark surfaces. On metallic paint the NPT seal makes sure the metallic flakes reflect evenly instead of being muted by haze — an effect that looks especially impressive on red and blue metallics.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAnother job it's made for is prepping a used car before you buy or sell. If you're buying, the state of the paint tells you quickly how well the car was looked after — and freshly polished paint is a strong signal of care and value retention. If you're selling, a careful polish can visibly lift the price you get. One to two hours of work for a full polishing treatment — and material costs of under 20 euros — can easily justify several hundred euros more at sale. The Polish+Wax 2 is especially good for this because it gives solid results even without a machine, and the seal presents the car at its best for potential buyers.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe Polish+Wax 2 compared — where it sits in the SONAX XTREME polish range\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe XTREME polish range from SONAX is laid out clearly by cut and purpose. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 2\u003c\/strong\u003e takes the middle spot: more cut than a plain wax care stick, less than an aggressive correction compound. The XTREME Polish+Wax 3 has a stronger cut, is built for older and more weathered paint and can take out deeper scratches — but it also demands more control, because too much abrasion can damage the clearcoat. For getting into active paint care, the Polish+Wax 2 is therefore the safer recommendation, because it does less harm if your technique isn't dialled in yet. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-brilliantwax-1-politur-wachsversiegel\"\u003eXTREME BrilliantWax 1\u003c\/a\u003e isn't really a cutting product at all but a polish with a wax seal for very light defects and gentle surface care — it has less cut than the Polish+Wax 2, but its higher wax content gives a soft, warm gloss that people prefer on classics and rare cars.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCompared to products from other makers, the Polish+Wax 2 is one of the most complete answers in its price bracket, because it polishes and seals in one step without giving anything up. Plenty of entry-level all-in-one polishes sacrifice either the cut or the sealing performance — the Polish+Wax 2 keeps both at a professional level. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-polish-wax-3-politur\"\u003eXTREME Polish+Wax 3\u003c\/a\u003e is the stronger alternative when the defects are pronounced, and can be used as a first stage ahead of the Polish+Wax 2. Running both — Polish+Wax 3 to kill the defects, then Polish+Wax 2 for the refinement and the final seal — is a proper two-step workflow that gets great results even on badly neglected paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying advice — who the Polish+Wax 2 is right for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is the right choice for anyone who wants to take paint care into their own hands and has a car with lightly to moderately stressed paint. It's simple enough for beginners with no polishing experience, and precise enough for experienced detailers looking for a fast, reliable maintenance polishing step. The 500 ml bottle covers several full cars and gives you very good value for the quality on offer — both the cut and the sealing performance of the Hybrid NPT sit clearly above comparable all-in-one polishes from the supermarket shelf. You'll notice the difference by the first rain at the latest: the water beading from the NPT seal is obvious even to a complete novice and a reliable sign the seal went on properly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor seasonal paint care we recommend the Polish+Wax 2 twice a year — in spring to clear salt residue and the micro-scratches winter leaves behind, and in autumn to prepare the paint for the hard winter season. That routine keeps the paint in a state where most fine defects never form in the first place, because the seal works as a buffer between the paint and the elements. Stick to that rhythm and use a quick detailer for the short-term refresh between polishes, and you'll have well-kept paint all year without a big time investment. Regular care isn't just about looks either — it protects the value of the car long term, because well-kept paint ages far more slowly and keeps the bodywork safe from corrosion risk through creeping moisture. At Detailing1 you'll find the polish together with the kit that goes with it — applicator sponges, microfibre cloths and polishing pad sets for machine work — for the complete polishing workflow.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":49160877343055,"sku":"D1-SNX-02072000","price":17.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/Sonax-XTREME-Polish-Wax-2-0.png?v=1721514375"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-shampoo-2-in-1-autoshampoo","title":"XTREME Shampoo \"2 in 1\" Car Shampoo","description":"\u003ch2\u003eClean and protect in one pass — SONAX XTREME Shampoo \"2 in 1\"\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does a 2-in-1 car shampoo actually do during a hand wash? SONAX's 2-in-1 car shampoo pairs the cleaning power of a quality car shampoo with a built-in wax component — dirt and oily residue get lifted off while a light protective layer builds up on the paint.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you want to skip the separate wax or sealant step after a hand wash but still keep some paint protection, the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Shampoo \"2 in 1\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is the most compact answer: one product handles both jobs — cleaning plus a baseline of paint care in a single pass. That saves time, cuts down on the number of products you juggle, and leaves you with a freshly protected surface and a silky gloss after every wash.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e2-in-1 formula — cleaning and built-in wax protection in one step.\u003c\/strong\u003e The XTREME shampoo formula blends cleaning-active surfactants with wax components that settle onto the paint as you wash. Once you've rinsed and dried, the shampoo leaves a wafer-thin wax layer that makes water bead off and shields the surface against fresh dirt. This wax component isn't meant to replace a full sealant, but between your regular care intervals it gives you a solid baseline of protection.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003epH-neutral formula for paint-friendly use.\u003c\/strong\u003e Acidic or heavily alkaline wash products attack existing wax layers and sealants and cut their lifespan short. The XTREME 2-in-1 shampoo is pH-neutral, so your existing paint protection stays intact — a big deal for anyone running a sealant or a coating who doesn't want to thin the protective layer out with every wash.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHighly concentrated — economical dosing for plenty of washes.\u003c\/strong\u003e The shampoo is a concentrate you use in small amounts per wash. That makes the 1 L bottle last for lots of wash sessions and work out far cheaper than pre-diluted ready-to-use products. For a hand wash using the bucket method, a small dose of concentrate is enough for a 10 L wash bucket.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe 2-in-1 idea for car shampoos isn't new, but how it's pulled off varies a lot. Cheap 2-in-1 products often carry so little wax that the protective effect is barely measurable. The XTREME Shampoo \"2 in 1\" is dialled in so the wax dose is enough to give you a real lotus effect on the paint after the wash — water pulls itself into beads and rolls off with the dirt particles instead of sheeting across the surface. That self-cleaning behaviour is the clearest proof that the 2-in-1 formula genuinely works.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e For the best results, go with the two-bucket method: fill one bucket with your shampoo water and a second with clean rinse water. After each panel, rinse the wash mitt out in the rinse bucket before you dip it back into the shampoo water. That way the dirt particles don't build up in the shampoo water and get dragged back onto the paint. Let the shampoo dwell on the paint for a moment — 30 to 60 seconds — to loosen road film and bug residue better before you rinse. That's when the 2-in-1 formula works best: cleaning first, then the wax laying down on an already-clean surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe SONAX XTREME shampoo's 2-in-1 formula — cleaning and wax care combined\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Shampoo \"2 in 1\"\u003c\/strong\u003e uses a surfactant-wax combination that works in sequence during the wash: first the surfactants lift dirt crusts, road film and organic deposits off the surface. The wax molecules ride in the same film of wash water and settle onto the clean paint once the dirt is gone. As you rinse, the surfactants wash away while the wax components stay behind on the paint and dry in.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe wax component in the 2-in-1 shampoo works differently from a coat of carnauba wax or a ceramic sealant: it's much thinner and less durable, but it hands you a fresh protective film right after every wash. Wash your car weekly and you build a baseline of protection over time — every wash tops the layer back up. That's a different philosophy from the one-off long-term sealant, but it's very handy for active drivers on a regular wash cycle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe pH-neutral formulation is the make-or-break factor for playing nicely with existing coatings. Alkaline shampoos (pH \u0026gt; 7) act as degreasers and so go after both the dirt and your wax layers and polymer sealants. If you've got an active coating or a fresh wax sealant on the car, you need to watch for pH-neutrality in your shampoo — the XTREME 2-in-1 shampoo respects the protection that's already there while building a layer of its own alongside it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor cars that go through the wash tunnel and then get an occasional hand wash on top, the 2-in-1 shampoo is the ideal follow-up product: the automatic wash pulls off the heavy dirt, the hand wash with the 2-in-1 shampoo takes down the leftover grime and refreshes the paint protection. That gives you an efficient care cycle that gets by without separate wax applications. It's just as good for seasonal cars given a thorough clean after winter — a first pass with the 2-in-1 shampoo is a quick way to strip the winter grip off paint and glass and lay down fresh wax protection at the same time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the 2-in-1 shampoo — hand wash, dosing and results\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHow much XTREME 2-in-1 shampoo you use comes down to water temperature and how dirty the car is. For a 10 L bucket, 30–50 ml of concentrate is usually plenty — overdosing kicks up too much foam and makes rinsing a chore. Foam itself isn't a quality marker on a car shampoo — it should be enough, but not over the top. Too much foam is a sign of overdosing and can leave a slightly cloudy residue after the rinse.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter the wash, rinse the car down as completely as you can with clean water to clear off all the surfactant residue. The wax components stay on the paint through the rinse because they're hydrophobic and don't wash off with water. Once it's dry, the wax effect shows: water pulls into beads on the freshly washed paint and rolls off — a visual sign of a working wax film.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDry off after the rinse with an absorbent microfibre towel. Water spots left by standing water can leave limescale behind that dulls the gloss of the fresh wax layer. A quick dry with a pro drying towel straight after the rinse heads off that limescale and shows the wash result right away: a clean, glossy car with a fresh layer of protection.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor stubborn dirt like bug splatter on the front end or tar spots along the sills, the 2-in-1 shampoo on its own won't always cut it. In those cases it pays to pre-treat with an insect remover or tar remover before you bring in the shampoo. The shampoo then handles the final clean and lays down the protective layer. That's the smartest division of labour: dedicated cleaners for stubborn spots, shampoo for the broad surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the XTREME 2-in-1 shampoo fits — everyday care and the regular wash\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe 2-in-1 shampoo is the ideal everyday shampoo for anyone who washes regularly and wants to skip a separate waxing step. It's a great fit for cars driven under normal conditions — but not for cars with fresh ceramic coatings, where you don't want to lay down any foreign wax, since the wax component can interfere with the coating surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor cars that get detailed at regular intervals and need to stay clean and protected between the big care appointments, the 2-in-1 shampoo is the most practical solution. It extends the lifespan of an existing sealant when it's pH-neutral, and it renews a baseline of protection on its own when there's no active sealant in place. For cars driven daily in traffic and washed weekly, the 2-in-1 principle covers the whole care need with no extra products.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt's a good match for motorhome and camper owners too: the 1 L size travels well, the dosing is fuss-free, and the 2-in-1 principle means there's no separate wax step after the wash — handy when space and time are tight. The quick wax effect after the rinse also shields the paint against UV and light oxidation on long hauls.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eXTREME Shampoo \"2 in 1\" compared — between a pure shampoo and a sealant shampoo\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWithin the SONAX XTREME shampoo range, the \"2 in 1\" sits in the middle: it offers more than a pure cleaning shampoo, but less than a sealant shampoo like the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-foam-seal-schaumversiegelung-autoshampoo-versiegelung\"\u003eSONAX XTREME Foam+Seal\u003c\/a\u003e, which lays down a lasting sealant layer. The 2-in-1 shampoo is the everyday product — practical, versatile, with an instant wax effect, but without the ambition of a long-term sealant.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you're after maximum foam fun while you wash, go for the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-foamgiant-shampoo-autoshampoo\"\u003eSONAX XTREME FoamGiant Shampoo\u003c\/a\u003e — a pure cleaning shampoo with a very high foam volume that's ideal for freshly sealed cars thanks to having no wax component. For lasting sealant reinforcement with every wash, the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-reload-shampoo-versiegelungsshampoo\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Reload Shampoo\u003c\/a\u003e is the pro alternative — it actively tops up SiO₂ sealants. The 2-in-1 shampoo positions itself in between: more protection than a pure shampoo, but a simpler formulation than a specialised sealant shampoo.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAgainst the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-activeshampoo-autoshampoo\"\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic Active-Shampoo\u003c\/a\u003e, the 2-in-1 product is fundamentally different: the Ceramic shampoo uses SiO₂ particles for ceramic protection and is tuned for cars with active ceramic coatings. The XTREME 2-in-1 shampoo uses classic wax components and is built for broad everyday use with no specific coating technology — simpler, but completely enough for the standard driver.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy the SONAX XTREME Shampoo \"2 in 1\" — the everyday shampoo with built-in wax protection\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe shampoo is the go-to product for a regular hand wash when you want caring wax protection with no extra hassle. The 1 L bottle gives you plenty of wash sessions at an economical dose and is the ideal size for home use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor anyone who washes their own car regularly and wants to look after the paint protection between the bigger care intervals, the 2-in-1 shampoo is the most compact answer: one product, one step, one result — clean, protected, glossy. Team it with an absorbent microfibre towel for drying and you've got the complete everyday wash result with no extra effort.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you want to go deeper into the SONAX XTREME wash experience, you can pair the 2-in-1 shampoo with a SONAX PROFILINE drying towel for the dry-off and, now and then, a quick-sealant product for fresh deep gloss. The 2-in-1 shampoo handles the baseline supply with every wash — for special occasions a quick sealant tops up the protection. That mix of everyday care and targeted deep-care work is the most practical strategy for a car that stays looked-after long-term with minimal time on your hands.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":49160877769039,"sku":"D1-SNX-02153000","price":9.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/Sonax-XTREME-Shampoo-2-in-1-5.png?v=1721514265"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-autoinnenreiniger-innenraumreiniger","title":"XTREME Car Interior Cleaner Interior Cleaner","description":"\u003ch2\u003eClean the interior thoroughly with no residue — SONAX XTREME Car Interior Cleaner\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat makes the SONAX XTREME Car Interior Cleaner stand out? This all-round interior cleaner tackles plastics, upholstery, headliners and the dashboard in one step — with no hazing and no greasy film left behind.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe cabin is one of the trickiest cleaning jobs in detailing: within a few square metres you're dealing with wildly different surfaces — hard-plastic dashboards, fabric seat covers, soft faux-leather trim, rubber seals and textile headliners. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Car Interior Cleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e is built for exactly this: an all-purpose cleaner that reliably handles all of them without needing a bespoke formula for every single material. That saves you time, goes easy on the budget and makes interior cleaning far simpler. The formula leaves no sticky film, no whitish residue and no haze — which matters most on dark plastics and black trim.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOne cleaning formula for nearly every interior surface.\u003c\/strong\u003e From the dashboard to the door cards, right through to upholstery and headliners — this interior cleaner is cleared for a wide range of materials. That gives you a smooth workflow without switching between different products.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eNo hazing, no greasy film once it's dry.\u003c\/strong\u003e A familiar headache with interior cleaners is the slightly greasy film that stays visible on plastics after drying and makes fingerprints stand out. The XTREME Car Interior Cleaner dries residue-free and leaves a clean, matt-clear surface.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eA fresh scent after cleaning, with no chemical smell of its own.\u003c\/strong\u003e Plenty of interior cleaners leave a harsh detergent or solvent smell that gives the cabin an unpleasant perfume. The XTREME interior cleaner has a pleasant scent and leaves a fresh feel once you're done.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Spray the interior cleaner onto a slightly damp microfibre cloth — not straight onto the surface. That stops you soaking seams, panel gaps and air vents. On dashboards and door cards, work in sections: finish one area completely before you move to the next — that way nothing dries on before you get to it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe interior cleaner formula — why all-round doesn't mean surface-level\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWith all-purpose cleaners a lot of people picture compromise products: something that does everything a bit but nothing really well. With dedicated car interior cleaners like the XTREME Car Interior Cleaner that isn't the case — and the reason sits in the formulation chemistry. The trick is picking surfactants that work equally well on hydrophilic (water-loving) surfaces like fabric and hydrophobic (water-repelling) plastics. The blend of mild anionic surfactants and amphoteric helpers lets it lift greasy fingerprints off plastics just as well as it pulls dried-in dirt out of upholstery. The pH sits slightly alkaline — strong enough to lift organic soiling like skin oils, food remnants and everyday grime, but gentle enough not to attack surfaces. On Alcantara, though, go easy with this all-round cleaner: for targeted stains there the specialist Upholstery+Alcantara Stain Remover is the better call. The all-round product suits general deep cleaning of most interior materials, but on sensitive premium textiles a product-specific cleaner is the safer bet. On hard plastic, rubber, standard fabric and faux leather, the XTREME Car Interior Cleaner is a no-reservations recommendation. It's also worth understanding that the cleaner has no care effect — it cleans but forms no protective film. If you also want to shield plastics from UV fading after cleaning, finish the workflow with a plastic dressing or cockpit detailer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn dilution: the interior cleaner comes ready-to-use and isn't diluted any further. That's deliberate — the concentration is set for direct use on the cloth. Dilute it and you risk the cleaning power falling short on heavy soiling. The other way round, there's no need to lay on an over-the-top amount either: a moderate hit on the cloth covers a full surface. Dose sparingly and you get very solid value for money.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the interior cleaner right — step-by-step workflow\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBefore you start cleaning, it pays to give the interior a quick de-dusting. Loose dirt that's built up on trays, in the footwell and on the seats should come out first with a car vacuum. Skip that step and you risk stirring fine dust up with the cleaner and smearing it across clean surfaces instead of pulling it out. A quick vacuum before the wet clean makes the actual work far more effective and the result a lot cleaner. This prep step isn't mentioned in any product description, but it makes a big difference to the outcome.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe order of your interior clean is decisive for a good result. Always start at the top and work down: headliner first, then A\/B\/C pillars, then dashboard, then door cards, then seats, and finally the floor mats and carpets. That way dirt loosened while you clean always falls onto areas you haven't done yet, not onto freshly cleaned ones. For the dashboard: spray the cleaner onto a soft microfibre cloth and wipe with the grain of the plastic texture. On patterned or ridged surfaces a soft brush helps lift residue out of the recesses before you wipe with the cloth. For air vents and panel gaps a detailing brush or a folded microfibre cloth is ideal for working dust and dirt out of hard-to-reach spots. For seats and upholstery: the microfibre cloth should be slightly damp but not wet. On fabric upholstery you work in circular motions and dry the seat afterwards with a dry cloth, so no moisture stays behind in the padding. Door handles, control buttons and switches — every surface touched daily — get the most intensive clean, since that's where skin oils and fingerprints build up. Here the interior cleaner is especially effective, as it lifts greasy prints completely without damaging the surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor the best result on heavily soiled vehicles we recommend a two-stage approach: first run a base clean with the interior cleaner, lifting the coarsest layers of dirt. Once it's dry, check the surfaces again and spot-clean anywhere residue is left. This second pass is far quicker than the first but delivers a much cleaner result than a single pass under time pressure. On new vehicles or regularly maintained interiors, a single pass is plenty.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOne more tip for working in winter: cold temperatures can slightly reduce the cleaning power, because surfactant activity is temperature-dependent. If you can, clean the interior in a heated garage or warm the vehicle up first. At room temperature the cleaner works at full strength and dries more evenly than in an ice-cold car. In summer, on the other hand, avoid cleaning the interior in direct sunlight, since the product can then dry too fast before you can wipe it off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere it works — the surfaces this interior cleaner handles\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA common question is about smell during cleaning. Some cabins — especially after standing a long time, after winter, or in vehicles where someone has smoked — take on unpleasant odours. The interior cleaner itself doesn't remove odours from upholstery and textiles; it removes the dirt that's the source of the smell. In many cases light odours then disappear on their own. For strong smells like tobacco or pet odour, an odour neutraliser that works directly on the source helps on top. The combination of a thorough clean and targeted odour control delivers the complete result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX XTREME Car Interior Cleaner is designed for these surfaces: hard plastics (dashboard, door cards, centre console), soft plastics (door pads, trays), rubber (seal frames, pedal pads), standard textile upholstery (fabric seat covers, carpets), faux leather and PU coatings, plus textile headliners. And the formula treats all of them the same in method and dwell time: spray onto cloth, wipe, let dry. No long dwell times, no special tools. That makes the interior cleaner especially appealing for businesses that have to turn round a lot of vehicles in a short time. A base interior clean with the XTREME Car Interior Cleaner takes about 20–40 minutes on a normal car, depending on how dirty it is and how carefully you work. If you want to finish by spot-treating individual problem stains on upholstery, reach for the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-polster-alcantarafleckentferner-polsterreiniger\"\u003eXTREME Upholstery+Alcantara Stain Remover\u003c\/a\u003e for pinpoint follow-up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOne use case that rarely gets a mention: the product also works for cleaning boots, load areas and trim in the rear of the vehicle. Especially on SUVs, estates and vans, faux-leather or hard-plastic load areas take a real beating from dirt. The interior cleaner handles these areas just as reliably as the actual passenger compartment. Trailer interiors, motorhome trim and boat interiors are possible use cases too, as long as the surfaces fit the product's material range.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor vehicles with especially light interiors — white or light-beige leather and faux leather — the usual rule applies: test on an inconspicuous spot first. Light surfaces react more sensitively to residue than dark ones. The interior cleaner is formulated residue-free, but on light surfaces a particularly careful dry-off is worthwhile to avoid any faint trace.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eInterior cleaner comparison — XTREME vs PROFILINE and specialist cleaners\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX range has several interior cleaners serving different demands. The all-round everyday cleaner is ideal for beginners and occasional users: affordable, versatile, quick to use. For heavy professional use in businesses, SONAX offers the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-innenreiniger-innenraumreiniger\"\u003ePROFILINE InnenReiniger\u003c\/a\u003e, which is more concentrated, available in larger containers and optimised for especially stubborn interior soiling. The PROFILINE cleaner can also be diluted — an important advantage for businesses that want to run the same cleaner at different strengths depending on the job: highly concentrated for heavily soiled vehicles at intake, more diluted for the weekly refresh. If you specifically want to clean only plastic surfaces in the interior while dressing them at the same time, the range includes the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-cockpitreiniger-matt-effect-innenraumpflege\"\u003eXTREME CockpitReiniger \"Matt-Effect\"\u003c\/a\u003e as a specialist option for plastic surfaces with a subtle care effect and a matt finish. For most private and semi-pro users the XTREME Car Interior Cleaner is the right way in: the 500 ml bottle covers plenty of jobs, the price is attractive, and handling is completely fuss-free. If you want to go deeper and regularly detail vehicles professionally, you'll move to the concentrated PROFILINE products in the medium term — but as a first interior cleaning product or an add-on for getting started, the XTREME interior cleaner is spot on.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIt's also worth watching for synergies in your own detailing kit: if you use the interior cleaner regularly, it pays to keep a dedicated upholstery cleaner for the seats and a plastic dressing for the dashboard within reach as well. The combination of cleaning, stain removal and dressing covers the complete interior workflow — fast, effective and with a professional result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFinally, a note for anyone wondering whether the XTREME Car Interior Cleaner also suits older vehicles with faded or degraded plastics: yes, with a caveat. The product cleans reliably but can't visually restore faded surfaces — that's the job of a plastic dressing or cockpit dressing. On very old, worn-out plastics that are already roughened or porous, we recommend working especially gently and using no abrasive motions. The cleaning still works there, but the look of the plastics themselves only improves with a follow-up dressing step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying recommendation — who the XTREME Car Interior Cleaner is the first choice for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA practical question first: is the 500 ml bottle enough for a vehicle? Yes, easily — at normal dosing onto a microfibre cloth you use only a few millilitres for a full interior clean on a car. A bottle lasts many months, even with regular use. For detailing businesses working several vehicles a day, the 500 ml bottle is more of a consumable, which is why the PROFILINE version in larger containers is more economical there.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you want an all-round interior cleaner that delivers a reliable result without much hassle, the SONAX XTREME Car Interior Cleaner is a clear tip. It's especially suited to vehicle owners who care for their interior regularly and don't want a specialist cleaner for every surface. The 500 ml bottle is enough for plenty of full interior cleans — dose sparingly onto the cloth and it easily lasts twenty or more applications. For families with kids, who often leave dirt and food remnants in the cabin, a reliable all-round cleaner like this is a must. For used-car dealers and detailers prepping vehicles daily, the product is ideal as a standard cleaner — paired with a vacuum and a good microfibre cloth it forms the basis of every professional interior job. If you then want to finish the vehicle with a protective touch, round off the workflow with a plastic dressing for the dashboard and door cards and a textile-protection spray for the upholstery. The XTREME Car Interior Cleaner is deliberately the first step, not the last — a thoroughly cleaned interior is the precondition for any dressing step that's worth doing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor anyone wanting to know how often the interior should be cleaned: as a rule of thumb, once a month with normal use and after every longer holiday or winter run. With intensive use — vehicles run daily for car-sharing, as company cars or in commercial passenger transport — a weekly base clean of the heavily used contact surfaces is worthwhile. If you often bring snowy or muddy shoes into the car in winter, do the floor mats more often. In summer skin-oil residue mainly builds up on the steering wheel, gear lever and door handles — here a quick weekly clean pays off to stop layers building up. Regular care keeps the effort small and the result presentable at any time.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":49160877834575,"sku":"D1-SNX-02212410","price":10.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/Sonax-XTREME-Auto-Innen-Reiniger-Innenraumreiniger-0.png?v=1721514345"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-protect-shine-hochglanz-versiegelung","title":"XTREME Protect+Shine High-Gloss Paint Sealant","description":"\u003ch2\u003ePaint protection in 20 minutes — the SONAX XTREME Protect+Shine high-gloss sealant put to the test\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX XTREME Protect+Shine high-gloss sealant actually do? The wax-free spray sealant with Hybrid NetProtection Technology protects your paint from the elements for up to 6 months — and a whole car is done in 20–30 minutes.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you detail your own car regularly, you know the trade-off between effort and result: a proper hard sealant or a ceramic coating gets you maximum protection, but it wants hours of prep, precise application and cure times. At the other end, simple care sprays give you a bit of surface shine and not much real protection. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Protect+Shine high-gloss sealant\u003c\/strong\u003e sits exactly in that gap: a wax-free sealant that uses Hybrid NetProtection Technology to build a stable protective film on the clear coat — quick to lay down, long-lasting, with deep gloss as the visible payoff. If you have neither the time nor the budget for a professional ceramic coating but still want serious paint protection, this is the pragmatic answer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWax-free protection for up to 6 months thanks to Hybrid NetProtection Technology.\u003c\/strong\u003e Classic carnauba waxes break down fast under UV and washing; the hybrid formula works with inorganic and organic protective components that bond molecularly to the clear coat. What you get is a tougher layer with far more staying power than a normal wax — and no white haze on plastics.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eA full car sealed in 20–30 minutes.\u003c\/strong\u003e All the faff of a classic wax job is gone: spray, spread, let it flash off, wipe — done. The applicator sponge and the microfibre cloth in the box are good for 3–4 full applications, so you get started straight away without buying anything else.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSelf-cleaning protective film with a lotus effect and a high-gloss finish.\u003c\/strong\u003e The layer makes water bead and run off fast, which cuts down on spray marks and dirt sticking once the panel dries. At the same time the transparent layer builds depth — the gloss gets richer without changing the actual colour of the paint.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e The best time for Protect+Shine is right after the wash, on a dry, cool day, in the shade. Work panel by panel — half a bonnet per go, no more — and after 1–2 minutes of flash time wipe it off with a clean, dry microfibre before you move on to the next section. Keep it out of direct sun: if it dries too fast you get streaks, and the only way out of those is polishing them back.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHybrid NetProtection Technology — how the sealant bonds to the paint on a molecular level\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe name sounds like marketing, but \"Hybrid NetProtection Technology\" stands for a real chemical principle, and it explains the gap to ordinary wax products. Classic carnauba and synthetic polymer waxes work by physical adhesion: they sit on top of the clear coat without ever forming a chemical bond. That is why they don't last — every wash takes part of the wax layer with it, and UV speeds the breakdown up. Hybrid sealants pair that physical approach with chemical reactivity: organic components (much like the ones in polymer waxes) do the depth-of-gloss and water-repellency job, while inorganic components (silicon-based compounds) anchor the film firmly to the clear coat. Together they build a three-dimensional protective structure that reaches deeper and holds longer than a plain polymer layer. The result is a transparent layer that doesn't just protect, it actively pushes the depth of the paint. What a lot of people don't realise: hybrid sealants partly rebuild themselves after every wash, because the water film reactivates the active components — that is why the beading is still there after the third or fourth wash, while a simple wax has next to nothing left after one or two. Compared with pure SiO2 spray sealants (the kind you find in some professional wet-application products), the hybrid formula has one big advantage: it goes on completely dry paint. That is an important difference, because SiO2 wet sealants need a damp surface for the chemistry to work properly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhat does that mean day-to-day? A car that gets Protect+Shine every 2–3 months builds an ever denser protective layer. The stated durability of up to 6 months is for a single application under normal conditions. Topping it up regularly extends the protection noticeably and makes the car easier to look after over time: dirt grips less, water spots dry more evenly, and you can wash less often.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOne more thing that matters: the hybrid tech is more forgiving of small application mistakes than a classic wax. Lay on too much wax, or wipe it off too early, and you end up fighting wax islands and uneven film thickness. The thin-film hybrid sealant is harder to get wrong, because you don't have to work it in like wax — it goes down as an even sprayed film. That takes a lot of the skill requirement out of it and makes the product a fair bet even if you are new to active paint care — even if you have never sealed a car by hand, you get a result worth showing pretty quickly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing Protect+Shine properly — step by step for the best result\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHow you work decides whether the sealant sits evenly or whether you end up with streaks and patchy coverage. Step one is prep: the car has to be washed thoroughly and dried completely. Water under the sealant stops the film forming evenly. Don't use a fast-drying detailer to dry with — it leaves silicone residue that hurts adhesion. Step two is the application: spray the product onto the yellow applicator sponge from the box, not straight onto the paint. The sponge spreads it evenly and stops you overdosing. Work the car in sections: half a bonnet, half the roof, wings, doors. Depending on air temperature and humidity, the sweet spot for flash time is 1–2 minutes: the product should go matt but not dry out completely. Wipe too early and the film isn't right; wipe too late and you get streaks that need reworking. Step three is the wipe-off: clean, dry microfibre, moderate pressure, circular motion. A second, fresh cloth for the last pass on each section makes a visible difference. Keep it off rubber seals and plastic trim — the product is built for clear-coated surfaces. On matt paint and on wraps Protect+Shine is not suitable, because the polishing agents in it can change the matt look.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf the car already has a sealant or a ceramic coating on it: Protect+Shine can go on as a topper and extends the protection of the existing coating. In that case the panel is even easier to work, because dirt and water already slide off better. The flash time can shorten a little on the smoother surface — watch for the even matt haze, that's your cue to wipe.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA common mistake that ends in disappointment: laying the product down when it is too warm or in direct sun. On surfaces above 35°C the sealant dries in seconds instead of minutes — that gives you hardened spots and visible edges between sections. If you are working in summer, park the car in the shade for at least 20 minutes first. Early morning or evening, when the paint is well below the day's peak, the application is calmer and the finish more even. With decent prep, Protect+Shine is one of the most forgiving sealants in the SONAX range.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere it fits — when Protect+Shine is the right call\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX XTREME Protect+Shine high-gloss sealant is squarely aimed at owners who want regular paint protection without the effort of a professional sealing job. Typical scenarios: protecting a new car from day one — before the factory clear coat starts taking a beating from the environment; a refresh after the wash (2–3 times a year); protection against spring and autumn fallout, so tree sap, bird muck and mineral deposits from rain; a quick lift before the season starts or before you sell the car. Important: Protect+Shine is no substitute for machine polishing or a real ceramic coating. It seals, but it doesn't correct scratches or paint defects. If you have visible holograms or swirls in the paint, polish first and seal after — the other way round makes no sense, because the sealant locks the scratches in. Protect+Shine is at its best on well-kept new paint or freshly polished paint: that is where the layer develops its full depth, because there is nothing in the clear coat to break up the light. On cars that are driven daily all year and take a lot of brake dust, rail dust or industrial fallout, a more frequent top-up makes sense — and that is exactly where the product shows its advantage: it goes on so quickly and easily that a monthly refresh is realistic and worthwhile.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn convertibles and cars with a soft-top there is one thing to watch: the roof itself is not a surface for this sealant, because fabric and vinyl want different products. The clear coat on the body and the wings is ideal, though. If you want to proof a soft-top, SONAX has dedicated fabric proofers in the range. Same story with the windscreen: on glass the application is possible, but a dedicated glass sealant gives you far better beading in the rain. So this is a clear-coat specialist — that doesn't limit it, it just sharpens where it belongs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSealant comparison — Protect+Shine vs spray ceramic vs wet sealant\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you are still not sure whether Protect+Shine or another level of sealant suits your car, a simple rule of thumb helps: can you put 20–30 minutes into an application and top it up every 6 months? Then a hybrid sealant is the right way in. Do you want to seal once a year or less, and are you happy to work precisely? Then the step up to a ceramic coating pays off. Do you want to build a bit of protection after every wash and have no time for separate detailing sessions? Then a wet sealant like SpeedProtect is your tool.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThere are several sealing options in the SONAX line-up, each for a different demand. A straight comparison makes the choice easy. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-speedprotect-spruhversiegelung\"\u003ePROFILINE SpeedProtect\u003c\/a\u003e is a spray sealant for professional detailers, used during the wash — laid down as a wet sealant on damp paint, with a shorter life than Protect+Shine but extremely fast to apply. SpeedProtect is made for commercial throughput; Protect+Shine is for the careful private user with a higher bar. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-hybridcoating-cc-one-keramikversiegelung\"\u003ePROFILINE HybridCoating \"CC One\"\u003c\/a\u003e is the next level up: a genuine hybrid ceramic sealant with an SiO2 share that outlasts Protect+Shine by a long way. The application is more demanding, the durability much longer, the price accordingly higher. On a car you want to keep at a premium level long-term, CC One is the better choice. Protect+Shine sits in between: more protection than a wet sealant, easier to apply than a ceramic coating, at a price that still makes sense if you only do it now and then. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-brilliantshine-detailer-quick-detailer\"\u003eXTREME \"BrilliantShine\" Detailer\u003c\/a\u003e isn't a sealant in the real sense, it's a quick detailer for topping up gloss between washes — it doesn't give you comparable protection, but it pairs perfectly with Protect+Shine for that bit of shine in between. In the end the choice comes down to effort versus how long the protection has to hold: if you can spend an hour or two on decent paint care and you want solid staying power, Protect+Shine is a good shout.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying advice — who Protect+Shine is the right sealant for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAnyone who works the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Protect+Shine\u003c\/strong\u003e high-gloss sealant into their own routine notices one thing fast: a fixed care interval does more than the occasional heavy polish. Booking in a session every 3–4 months — wash, dry, seal, done — keeps the paint in a state where every wash turns into a small win: cleaner, faster to dry, and with a gloss well above untreated paint. That is paint protection in practice, not just looks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX XTREME Protect+Shine high-gloss sealant is the right call for owners who take their paint seriously but don't want to invest in professional sealing products and the work that comes with them. The 210 ml set with applicator sponge and microfibre cloth makes the start easy: no extra kit needed, no learning curve on complicated application techniques. The cloths and sponges in the box are good enough for 3–4 full cars — after that we'd grab a fresh microfibre from our accessory range for the best result. Protect+Shine is a particularly good fit if you wash and look after your car yourself, if the paint is in decent shape right now (no deep scratches, no dull clear coat), and if you are after a visible lift in gloss and water behaviour. If you want to bring the paint back after a summer away or a winter of salt, this is an efficient way into the new season. If you are prepping a car for sale, the fresher look after the treatment pays off. And if you have just machine-polished and want to lock the work in without immediately buying a ceramic coating, Protect+Shine is a solid finish on the polish. Short version: if you want paint protection without compromise but can't give up more than half an hour per car, this is your product. The set is ready to go, nothing else needed — unpack it, use it, enjoy the result. For anyone who wants to protect their paint actively without spending hours next to the car, there is hardly an easier way into sealing. And once you have seen what it does for gloss and dirt release, regular sealing quickly becomes a fixed part of the routine — because paint care isn't a one-off job, it's a running investment in what the car is worth.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"210ml","offer_id":49160877867343,"sku":"D1-SNX-222100","price":16.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/Sonax-XTREME-Protect-Shine-2.png?v=1721514360"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-ceramic-kunststoff-versiegelung","title":"XTREME Ceramic Plastic Sealant","description":"\u003ch2\u003eCeramic protection for exterior plastics — SONAX XTREME Ceramic Plastic Sealant\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eHow do you protect faded plastic trim on your car for the long haul? The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic Plastic Sealant\u003c\/strong\u003e uses Si-Carbon technology to lay down a satin-matte, hydrophobic layer on bumpers, trim strips and mirror caps — with up to three months of protection per application.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eNeglected exterior plastic trim greys out fast: UV, ozone and the weather break down the surface polymers of the plastic and leave a rough, dull finish that grabs dirt and stops water from beading. A basic plastic dressing gives you a quick shine, but barely protects against fresh weathering. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic Plastic Sealant\u003c\/strong\u003e tackles this from a different angle: the Si-Carbon formula builds a chemically anchored, hydrophobic ceramic layer on the plastic surface — not a plain oil that washes off, but a bond that keeps UV protection and water repellency active for up to three months. In a 750 ml bottle for regular use across all kinds of vehicles.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSi-Carbon ceramic protection for up to three months.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Si-Carbon technology in the formula bonds with the plastic surface on a molecular level and forms a longer-lasting layer than classic oil- or silicone-based dressings. The sealant stays active through several downpours and hand washes, so you don't have to reapply it after every wash. That saves time and money compared with plastic dressings you have to top up every week.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSatin-matte look with no greasy overshine on exterior plastics.\u003c\/strong\u003e A lot of plastic dressings leave an oily high gloss that looks off on trim and bumpers that are meant to be matte. The Ceramic Plastic Sealant is tuned to the satin-matte factory tone of modern exterior plastics: the plastic looks fresh and cared for, without over-the-top shine. The result matches the factory-fresh look buyers know from the showroom.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHydrophobic surface that grabs less dirt.\u003c\/strong\u003e The sealed plastic surface repels water and cuts down on how much road grime, limescale and overspray stick to it. Slushy rain and road muck wipe off a sealed plane far more easily than off bare plastic. That keeps the car cleaner between washes and takes some of the work out of the next one.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e For the best results with the Ceramic Plastic Sealant, prep is everything: first strip the plastic of grease and silicone residue with a plastic cleaner, then degrease with isopropyl alcohol (IPA), and only then lay down the sealant. On badly faded plastic, a refresh step with the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-kunststoffgel-aussen-kunststoffpflege\"\u003eSONAX XTREME KunststoffGel \"Außen\"\u003c\/a\u003e pays off before you seal — it brings back the original deep colour of the plastic before the sealant locks in and protects that state. Apply the Ceramic Plastic Sealant thinly with an applicator sponge, let it flash off briefly, then buff it off with a microfibre — don't rub it in, just spread it evenly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSi-Carbon technology of the Ceramic Plastic Sealant — how it works and how it lasts\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSi-Carbon technology is the heart of the \u003cstrong\u003eCeramic Plastic Sealant\u003c\/strong\u003e: silicon compounds (Si) combined with carbon molecules form a chemically anchored protective layer on the plastic surface once you've applied it. This bond is more stable than a plain oil film — oils only sit between the plastic and the outside world as a physical barrier that rain and washes strip off fairly quickly. The Si-Carbon layer, by contrast, ties into the surface molecules of the plastic and holds up against water rinses and cleaning agents far longer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAlongside the hydrophobicity, UV protection is the second key job of the sealant. UV is the main driver of plastic greying: high-energy UV photons break apart the polymer chains at the plastic surface, which shows up as visible fading and brittleness. The Ceramic Plastic Sealant contains UV absorbers that catch part of the incoming UV and slow the greying rate. The effect stacks up: vehicles sealed regularly every three months show far less greying over the years than untreated ones.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe up-to-three-months protection applies under normal conditions: regular hand washes or automatic car washes, normal weather, no aggressive cleaners. In practice that means three to four applications a year, which makes the 750 ml bottle enough for most vehicles over a full care season.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA question that comes up a lot is whether the Si-Carbon sealant plays nicely with other ceramic products in a vehicle care system. Since the Ceramic Plastic Sealant only goes on plastic surfaces and never on paint, there's no interaction with paint sealants or ceramic coatings on the body. If you want to set the whole car up with ceramic protection — paint with a ceramic coating, plastics with the Ceramic sealant, glass with a hydrophobic treatment — you can run all of them together without any conflict. Each area has its own product, and you keep the line between plastic and paint clear when you apply.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eApplying the Ceramic Plastic Sealant — prep, application and durability\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHow well the Ceramic Plastic Sealant works comes straight down to how you prep the surface. On greasy, silicone- or oil-loaded surfaces the Si-Carbon compound can't form a stable bond with the plastic — the sealant would only cling to the oil, not to the plastic itself. That's why pre-cleaning with isopropyl alcohol (IPA) or a dedicated plastic cleaner is a must, not an option.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eApplication: put the sealant on an applicator sponge or a soft microfibre and lay it down thinly on the cleaned plastic. Don't scrub, just spread it evenly. Depending on the ambient temperature, let it flash off for 2–5 minutes, then buff it off with a clean microfibre. On smooth plastics (mirror caps, sill covers) a single thin coat is enough; on textured, porous plastics (bumpers with a honeycomb structure) you can add a second coat after 10 minutes of drying to make sure the recesses are fully covered.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTemperature and weather shape the result: apply the Ceramic Plastic Sealant at temperatures between 5 °C and 30 °C. Below 5 °C the Si-Carbon compound reacts more slowly and takes longer to flash off — which can lead to uneven buffing. Above 30 °C or in direct sun the product dries on too fast and gets hard to remove. If you're working in summer, move into the shade or shift the job to the cooler morning or evening hours. In winter, a heated garage or wash bay is the way to go.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn the first application on new or long-neglected plastic, a two-coat approach pays off: the first coat soaks into the surface and fills the porous, UV-damaged structure. The second coat then forms the actual protective layer on an even base. Follow-up applications every three months usually only need one coat, since the base is already sealed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere it goes — bumpers, trim strips, mirror caps and more\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Ceramic Plastic Sealant suits all unpainted exterior plastic parts: bumper inserts and strips in their factory colour, sill covers, wheel-arch flares, mirror caps, A-pillar trims, plastic roof spoilers, door-handle recesses and rear diffusers. Vehicles with large plastic areas benefit most — SUVs, off-roaders and vans with pronounced plastic bumpers have a lot more surface that goes grey and neglected fast without regular care.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn bumpers with built-in parking sensors, work carefully: don't spray the product straight into the sensor openings. An applicator sponge guided only onto the plastic between the sensors keeps residue out of the openings. If you need to, mask the sensor openings with a small strip of painter's tape before you start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eNot meant for painted surfaces: the Ceramic Plastic Sealant is built specifically for unpainted, pigmented plastics and can leave streaks on clear coat. On rubber parts (door seals, window seals) and rubber lips on bumpers you can use the sealant too — it protects rubber against UV embrittlement as well, though it lasts a bit shorter than on hard plastic.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe Ceramic Plastic Sealant compared — plastic care products in the range\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWithin the SONAX plastic care range, the Ceramic Plastic Sealant sits as the long-term protection product for regular care. Compared with the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-kunststoffdetailer-innen-aussen-kunststoffpflege\"\u003eSONAX XTREME KunststoffDetailer \"Innen+Außen\"\u003c\/a\u003e, the Ceramic sealant is built for pure exterior use and longer durability — the KunststoffDetailer is better for a quick interior and exterior refresh with instant shine, while the Ceramic sealant delivers the chemically bonded long-term effect.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor professional detailing businesses, the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-plasticcare-kunststoffpflege\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PlasticCare\u003c\/a\u003e or the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-plastic-protectant-exterior-kunststoffpflege\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PlasticProtectant \"Exterior\"\u003c\/a\u003e are the alternatives with higher concentration and pro-size packaging. The Ceramic Plastic Sealant is aimed at car owners and detailers who want to hit professional durability with a consumer product — without having to switch over to the PROFILINE system.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the SONAX XTREME Ceramic Plastic Sealant — who it's for and when\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Ceramic Plastic Sealant is the right product for car owners who don't want to re-dress their exterior plastics after every wash, but value three months of quiet from plastic care work. It makes the most sense on vehicles that spend a lot of time outdoors and take heavy UV — the slowed greying of the plastic shows over the years.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor owners who like to look after their car entirely themselves, the Ceramic Plastic Sealant is a solid piece of the care routine: after washing and drying, first refresh the paint with a quick detailer or a spray sealant, then treat the plastic parts with the Ceramic sealant. The whole process takes 20–30 minutes on an average vehicle and gives you an all-round cared-for look — paint gleams, plastic is fresh and satin-matte. This two-product set covers every exterior surface without needing special pro gear or know-how.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe 750 ml bottle lasts one vehicle across several care cycles: each application on an average car uses 5–15 ml, depending on the size of the plastic areas. That makes the bottle a year's supply for one or two vehicles. Paired with the SONAX XTREME KunststoffGel \"Außen\" for the initial refresh of badly faded parts and the Ceramic sealant as follow-up protection, you get a complete two-product system for perfectly cared-for plastics all year round.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"750ml","offer_id":49160878096719,"sku":"D1-SNX-2264000","price":12.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/Sonax-XTREME-Ceramic-Kunststoff-Versiegelung-750-m-6.png?v=1721514319"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-felgenreiniger-plus","title":"XTREME Wheel Cleaner PLUS","description":"\u003ch2\u003eCut through baked-on brake dust the easy way — with the SONAX XTREME FelgenReiniger PLUS\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX XTREME FelgenReiniger PLUS do? This self-acting wheel cleaner with a colour-change indicator lifts baked-on brake dust, oil and rubber residue off every type of wheel — gentle on the material, TPMS-safe and pH-neutral.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you clean wheels regularly you already know the problem: brake dust bakes into the wheel surface under heat and plain car shampoo barely touches it. You end up with grey-brown, dingy-looking wheels that still look dirty even after a wash. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME FelgenReiniger PLUS\u003c\/strong\u003e was built for exactly this job — a strong specialist cleaner with a self-acting formula that chemically breaks down baked-on brake dust, oil and rubber residue plus road grime, without attacking the wheel itself. The built-in colour indicator turns reddish the moment it hits the contamination, so you can actually see when and where it's working.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSelf-acting cleaning with a visual indicator.\u003c\/strong\u003e The reddish colour shift is more than a gimmick — it flags the active cleaning process and shows you exactly where brake dust and iron particles are still sitting. As long as the colour is still strong, the cleaner is working. That gives you a clear read on dwell time and stops you rinsing off too early.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSafe on every common wheel type.\u003c\/strong\u003e Steel, alloy, painted, chromed, polished, powder-coated or matte — the FelgenReiniger PLUS leaves all of these surfaces alone. The pH-neutral formula doesn't go after wheel bolts or valves either. That makes it a true all-rounder for any car and any wheel finish.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eTPMS-safe and gentle on materials.\u003c\/strong\u003e Cars with a tyre-pressure monitoring system (TPMS) carry sensors at the valves that aggressive cleaners can wreck. The special formula of the FelgenReiniger PLUS is explicitly cleared for TPMS — an important detail on any newer car that plenty of rival products can't match.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Always spray the FelgenReiniger PLUS onto cool wheels — never onto hot wheels straight after a drive. A hot surface flashes the product off instantly, the indicator can't develop and cleaning power drops off a cliff. After you park up, give it at least 10–15 minutes before you start. On heavily soiled wheels with baked-on brake dust: lay it on generously, wait 5 minutes, then back it up with a soft wheel brush — that pulls residue out of the deeper spoke recesses too.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSelf-acting cleaning with a colour indicator — how the XTREME FelgenReiniger PLUS works\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe heart of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME FelgenReiniger PLUS\u003c\/strong\u003e is the self-acting formula with optimised cling. Unlike a simple surfactant in a watery solution — which runs off the wheel before it can do anything — the FelgenReiniger PLUS formula grabs onto vertical and curved wheel faces. That cling buys the product the contact time it needs to work chemically on baked-on brake dust and metal-oxide particles.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe colour indicator is the visible sign of that reaction. Iron particles — the main ingredient in brake dust — react with specific actives in the formula and throw off a reddish-violet dye. This isn't artificial colouring, it's a real chemical reaction: the stronger the red, the more brake dust is there. As the colour fades, most of the iron particles are bound up and dissolved.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe pH-neutral formula isn't a marketing line, it's a safety statement: the cleaner works in the neutral pH range, so it goes after neither aluminium nor steel alloys. Galvanised steel parts like wheel bolts and valves come through untouched too. More alkaline or acidic cleaners can leave clouding or corrosion on bolts and trim — with the FelgenReiniger PLUS the formula rules that risk out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne important note on working temperature: pH-neutral iron removers are at their best at room temperature. Very cold wheels (under 5 degrees) noticeably slow the reaction down — in frost you can stretch the dwell time to 8–10 minutes to get the same result. In extreme cold, a quick warm-up of the wheel with lukewarm water from the hose helps, bringing the surface up to working temperature without heating the wheel.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe optimised cling really pays off on cars with deep-dish sport wheels. That's where brake dust and oil residue love to sit — on the back of the spokes and in the barrel, spots a normal jet of water barely reaches and where a runny cleaner with no grip would slide straight off. The FelgenReiniger PLUS sticks to these vertical and overhead faces and gives the actives the time they need to work into the deposit there too. It makes a real difference on cars with deep sport wheels, where cleaning the inner sections is otherwise a proper chore.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHow to use the FelgenReiniger PLUS properly — step by step\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe job starts before you even spray: shake the bottle briefly and turn the nozzle to the spray position. On unknown or resprayed wheels, test material compatibility first on a hidden spot — resprayed wheels with fresh clear coat can react sensitively to the cleaner.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSpray the cooled wheels evenly and wet from a short distance (15–20 cm). The key here: lay it on generously so the whole wheel face is wetted, including the back of the spokes and the barrel. Let it dwell for 3 to 5 minutes depending on how dirty things are. Watch the colour reaction — on dirtier wheels the reddish shift is clearly visible.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor stubborn baked-on brake dust, back it up mechanically with a soft wheel brush. The brush spreads the cleaner evenly into the recesses and lifts residue that chemistry alone won't fully shift. Wear suitable protective gloves while you do it — prolonged skin contact with the product can cause irritation. Then rinse off thoroughly with a strong jet of water or a pressure washer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA common mistake is letting the cleaner dry on: if the dwell time runs too long or the sun beats straight onto the wet wheel, the cleaner can dry and leave white residue behind. It rinses off again with water, but it's needless extra work. So work in the shade where you can and don't push past the recommended 5-minute dwell.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne more tip for a smooth workflow: always work all four wheels in a loop — spray wheel 1, then wheel 2, then 3, then 4 — and start rinsing back at wheel 1. That way every wheel gets the full 3–5 minutes of dwell without you standing around waiting. It saves time and gives you even results across all four. On very heavily soiled wheels a second pass may be needed — in that case rinse the wheel, spray again and let it dwell for another 3 minutes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBrake dust, rubber, oil — what the PLUS lifts off every wheel type\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBrake dust is the most common and the most stubborn wheel contamination. It comes off the brake disc and pad as metal particles during braking and gets heated by the brake hydraulics. At several hundred degrees it literally bakes into the wheel surface. Plain surfactant-based shampoos can't touch these baked-on oxide particles — for that you need a specialist cleaner with an iron-reducing component like the FelgenReiniger PLUS.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn top of that, the cleaner lifts oil and rubber residue that settles on the inner wheel flank from tyre wear. This residue is tougher than brake dust and clings especially hard to polished or high-gloss wheels. The self-acting formula works into it and emulsifies it, so it comes away completely on the rinse.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor painted and powder-coated wheels the FelgenReiniger PLUS is a safe bet. The pH-neutral formula attacks neither clear coats nor powder coatings — a decisive edge over acidic wheel cleaners that are built for bare aluminium and can damage painted surfaces. Chromed wheels benefit from the gentle formula too — chrome is sensitive to acids but comes through the pH-neutral treatment unharmed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eMatte wheels are a category of their own, where plenty of wheel cleaners fall down: products that are too aggressive change the matte surface through a chemical reaction or leave shiny patches. The FelgenReiniger PLUS is explicitly cleared for matte wheel finishes too — the gentle formula cleans without touching the matte effect.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor steel wheels, often found on winter sets, the FelgenReiniger PLUS is the right call as well. Steel wheels pick up a lot of grime over winter from road salt and wet roads, and it clings hard come spring. The combination of iron reaction and surfactant formula clears rust fallout along with salt and grease deposits in a single pass — ideal for the spring check on winter wheels before they go into storage or you swap back to summers.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWheel cleaner comparison — PLUS, FelgenBeast and PROFILINE Red Max\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX line-up has several wheel cleaners that differ in aggressiveness, formula and use case. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/sonax-felgenbeast-felgenreiniger\"\u003eFelgenBeast\u003c\/a\u003e is acid-free too and works with colour-change technology. It's explicitly designed for all wheel types including painted ones and, as the direct counterpart to the FelgenReiniger PLUS, it's well known. The difference is in the detail: the FelgenBeast is tuned for regular cleaning at moderate soiling, while the FelgenReiniger PLUS with its self-acting cling formula is especially effective on heavier baked-on brake dust and clings to the surface for longer. If you clean at short intervals and never let brake dust build up too far, the FelgenBeast has you covered. If you wait longer between cleans or drive a car with sportier brakes, you'll rate the PLUS as the stronger choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor pro users with extremely soiled wheels or cars going through reconditioning, there's the PROFILINE range from SONAX with higher cleaning intensity. The PROFILINE products are formulated for professional use, but they also demand more care in application and aren't suitable for every wheel type. As an XTREME product, the FelgenReiniger PLUS gives the home user the right balance of power and safety — strong enough for stubborn brake dust, safe enough for every common wheel finish without special precautions.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter cleaning, a protective product makes sense: the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/sonax-xtreme-felgenschutzversiegelung-felgen-versiegelung\"\u003eXTREME Wheel Protection Sealant\u003c\/a\u003e lays down a hydrophobic barrier on the wheel after cleaning, so brake dust and dirt cling less easily next time round. If you seal your wheels after every deep clean, you cut down on how often you need to clean and stretch the time to the next intensive wheel job considerably.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying a wheel cleaner — who the XTREME FelgenReiniger PLUS is for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME FelgenReiniger PLUS\u003c\/strong\u003e is the right product for owners who want to clean their wheels regularly and thoroughly — with something that doesn't give up even on heavier baked-on brake dust. It's especially suited to cars with sporty brakes that throw off more brake dust, or cars with longer cleaning intervals where brake dust has built up over several weeks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor owners of cars with TPMS, the FelgenReiniger PLUS is the safe pick: the explicit clearance for TPMS valves takes away the worry about whether the cleaner might damage the pressure sensors. On newer cars in particular, where nearly every variant ships with TPMS, that's an important buying point.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA sensible care workflow for wheels: FelgenReiniger PLUS for the deep clean on heavier brake dust, then the XTREME Wheel Protection Sealant for lasting protection, and the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-reifen-felgendetailer-quick-detailer\"\u003eXTREME Ceramic Tyre+WheelDetailer\u003c\/a\u003e for a quick refresh between full washes. That combination keeps wheels clean and well protected with minimal effort. The clever part: if you seal the wheels after the deep clean, you'll need far less FelgenReiniger PLUS at the next interval, because the protective layer cuts down how much brake dust sticks. So the system pays off not just on looks but on the wallet too — less product used for the same or a better result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe FelgenReiniger PLUS comes in 500 ml and 750 ml spray bottles. The 500 ml bottle covers plenty of cleaning passes on a normal car — if you look after several cars or clean often, the 750 ml bottle is the more economical buy. Both sizes hold the same cleaner and the same performance, just in different container sizes. For average home use the 500 ml bottle is the more practical choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn the effort front, the FelgenReiniger PLUS is one of the most time-saving ways to look after wheels. Spray, dwell, rinse — no scrubbing, no repeated applications, no follow-up polish. That makes it especially appealing for owners who want to fold wheel care into their regular wash weekend without much extra fuss. In 15–20 minutes all four wheels on a car are clean and ready for the sealant to follow.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBottom line: the SONAX XTREME FelgenReiniger PLUS is a solid choice for anyone who wants to clean their wheels thoroughly and gently — without skimping on power, but without any risk to delicate wheel finishes. The indicator makes the action visible, the TPMS clearance makes it safe for modern cars and the pH-neutral formula makes it universally usable. The result is wheels that genuinely look clean after the wash — not just on the surface but right into the barrel. Once you've worked with a self-acting iron remover, you won't want to go back to working blind: the formula turning red on the wheel is direct feedback that the cleaner is working, and the fading colour tells you when the process is done. So wheel care stops being guesswork — it turns into a controllable, repeatable routine.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":49160878162255,"sku":"D1-SNX-02302090","price":13.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"750ml","offer_id":49160878195023,"sku":"D1-SNX-02304000","price":15.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":57340506538319,"sku":"D1-SNX-02305050","price":57.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/Sonax-XTREME-Felgen-Reiniger-PLUS-750-ml-7.png?v=1721514380"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-reifenglanzgel-ultra-wet-look-reifenpflege","title":"XTREME ReifenGlanzGel \"Ultra Wet Look\" Tyre Care","description":"\u003ch2\u003eDeep wet-look shine for tyres — SONAX XTREME ReifenGlanzGel \"Ultra Wet Look\"\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat makes the SONAX XTREME ReifenGlanzGel \"Ultra Wet Look\" stand out? The gel formula clings evenly to the rubber, feeds it against drying out, and lays down a deep, intense high-gloss finish the moment you apply it.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you know the dull grey look of freshly washed tyres, you know the feeling: the wheel is clean, but the whole picture is off. A cared-for tyre with a deep, silky shine is what pulls it all together — and that's exactly what the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME ReifenGlanzGel \"Ultra Wet Look\"\u003c\/strong\u003e gives you. The gel consistency grips the rubber better than watery sprays, spreads evenly and lays down that signature ultra-wet effect: deep, rich, as if the tyre had just come out of the water. At the same time the formula protects the rubber against drying out and the typical brittleness that makes tyres look tired after a few years, no matter how much tread is left.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eIntense high-gloss look from the gel formula.\u003c\/strong\u003e Unlike tyre shine sprays, the gel stays put on the rubber instead of running off. You get even, full coverage with no light patches or uneven shine — the result is a rich, deep wet-look finish that lands straight away.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCare and protection for the rubber.\u003c\/strong\u003e UV, cold and ozone attack tyre rubber at a molecular level and make tyres age and fade before their time. The care agents in the ReifenGlanzGel build a protective layer that keeps moisture in the rubber and slows down that telltale greying.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEasy to apply with a sponge — no spray mist.\u003c\/strong\u003e If you want to keep painted wheels safe from stray shine spray day-to-day, a gel puts you well ahead. No overspray, no wiping the wheels down afterwards — just lay it on with a tyre sponge, let it soak in, done.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e The ReifenGlanzGel gives its best on a dry, clean tyre. Lay the gel on with an applicator sponge in even passes — working from the inside of the tyre outwards — and let it soak in for five minutes before you move the car. That stops the gel from flinging onto the wheel as you pull away and leaving ugly spots.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eGel formula instead of spray — why the consistency makes the difference\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTyre shine products come in three basic consistencies: a watery spray, a foam and a gel. The gel consistency of the SONAX XTREME ReifenGlanzGel is the trickiest to manufacture, but it brings real day-to-day upsides. A watery spray spreads fast, but it tends to run off the sidewall — especially on vertical or curved tyre flanks, less of the active stuff stays put than you'd hope. That leaves you with uneven shine: more up top, less down low. The gel formula, on the other hand, is viscous enough to stay exactly where you put it. It doesn't run off, it doesn't seep into grooves and tread cuts, it just sits evenly across the whole sidewall. That's why the ultra-wet-look effect comes out so consistent and full. You don't need a special brush or spray head to get it right — a plain tyre applicator sponge does the job. You lay the gel on sparingly, work it in with circular motions and let it soak in. No streaking, no going back over it — the gel shows its effect in a few minutes. One more thing: the gel consistency lets you apply with precision. You can target the sidewall on purpose without splashing wheels, brake calipers or bodywork. If you work in detailing every day and run through one car after another, you'll value that: no masking, no taping off, no wiping the wheel down after.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHow to use tyre care properly — step by step to the perfect wet look\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThere's another upside to the gel formula that's underrated day-to-day: dosing accuracy. With a spray product the amount of active stuff going on is hard to control — you spray, and whatever sticks, sticks. With the gel you've got full control: you put exactly the amount you need onto the sponge, and you know all of it lands on the tyre. That makes the gel not just more precise but more economical, because no product goes to waste. If you work several cars a week, you'll really notice that difference in how much you burn through.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe result of the ReifenGlanzGel lives and dies with the prep. The most common mistake is laying it on a dirty or damp tyre — then the gel doesn't bond properly, the shine comes out flat, and durability drops off noticeably. The right order is simple: first clean the tyre thoroughly, ideally with a dedicated tyre cleaner or an alkaline all-purpose cleaner that lifts brake dust, road grime and old dressing residue. Then let it dry fully — with a microfibre cloth or a blast of compressed air. Only now does the ReifenGlanzGel come in. Put a hazelnut-sized blob of gel on your applicator sponge and spread it evenly across the clean, dry sidewall. Start on one side and work your way around the whole tyre so you don't double up on a spot or miss one. A thin, even coat is plenty — more gel doesn't mean more shine, just a higher chance the gel flings onto the wheel as you pull away. Let the gel work in for at least five minutes before you drive off. On very thirsty or old rubber, a second thin coat after the first one has soaked in can be worth it. That deepens the wet-look effect and stretches the protection. For the best-lasting effect — especially on cars driven in the rain regularly — a refresh after every wash is the way to go.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA common question is whether the gel can go on wet or rain-soaked tyres. The answer is clear: you want to avoid that. Water thins the gel, it bonds worse and the wet-look result comes out noticeably weaker. Those five minutes after drying make a real difference. If you wash the car in a unit or a covered space and then finish it off in the dry, you've got the most room for a clean result. For shops detailing cars out in the open, a fast-drying tyre cleaner plus a quick blast with compressed air is the most effective prep.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere it's used and when the ultra-wet-look effect earns its keep\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX XTREME ReifenGlanzGel \"Ultra Wet Look\" is first and foremost a cosmetic care product — worth saying plainly. It smooths and seals the sidewall, protects against UV and drying out, but it doesn't replace worn tyres and has zero effect on handling or grip. So the use case is clear: show cars, freshly detailed vehicles, showrooms, photo shoots, trade fairs — anywhere the look is what counts. But it's just as fit for everyday road use: a cared-for, shiny tyre isn't a luxury, it's a sign of attention to detail that lands with customers, buyers and drivers alike. And the ultra-wet effect holds up nicely: on a dry day without heavy rain, the high gloss usually lasts several days. With frequent rain or grime, a weekly refresh after the wash makes sense. For detailing shops prepping cars for handover, the ReifenGlanzGel is a staple: quick to apply, instantly visible effect, no fiddly rework. The customer sees at pickup that the car's been fully sorted — right down to the tyres. One angle that rarely gets a mention: the gel doesn't just guard against cosmetic decline, it also stretches the visual lifespan of older tyres that still have tread but already look washed out. Here the ReifenGlanzGel can lift the look noticeably without needing a tyre change.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIt's just as important to know what the product can't do: it won't hide structural damage, cracks in the rubber or worn tread blocks. If you're trying to mask safety-relevant tyre wear with a cosmetic refresh, you've got it wrong. The care side is about rubber structure and looks — road safety is down to the tyre's condition, full stop. That should be clear for all the excitement over the result. The gel gives a healthy tyre a sharp look and protects it while it's at it — nothing more, and that's plenty.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eTyre care comparison — gel, spray and matt effect at a glance\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you're looking at tyre care products for the first time, the sheer number of options can be a lot. A good way to find your footing is your own priority: is it about looks, about care, or about protection? With the ReifenGlanzGel, looks and care sit equal at the top — one product that delivers both in a single step and is dead simple to handle. If you only want to push one of the two, the range has more specialised options.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX XTREME range has several tyre care products, and the differences are there on purpose: the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-reifenglanzspray-wet-look-reifenpflege\"\u003eXTREME ReifenGlanzSpray \"Wet Look\"\u003c\/a\u003e hits the same high-gloss effect as the gel, but it's built for quick jobs where there's no sponge to hand or several tyres need doing fast. The spray gives a similar result and is quicker to handle — with the downside of overspray on painted wheels. The SONAX XTREME ReifenGlanzGel \"Ultra Wet Look\" is the more precise pick when the visual bar is high and you want a streak-free, even result. A completely different character comes from the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-reifenpfleger-matt-effect-reifenpflege\"\u003eXTREME ReifenPfleger \"Matt-Effect\"\u003c\/a\u003e: it gives no shine but a deep, silky matt finish that works best on black sports tyres or cars with matt paint or wrap. If a car with glossy tyres feels \"too show\" to you, reach for the Matt-Effect. For professional use and big container sizes, go for the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-reifenglanz-wet-look-reifenpflege\"\u003ePROFILINE ReifenGlanz \"Wet Look\"\u003c\/a\u003e, available in 5-litre canisters for shops and fleets. The consistency is close to the XTREME gel, but the formula is tuned for professional non-stop use. So the choice comes down to the job: gel for precise results and a high bar, spray for speed, Matt-Effect for the understated look, PROFILINE for commercial heavy use. If you're torn between gel and spray and mostly want quick, regular upkeep, you can run both side by side: gel for the careful weekly job, spray for the fast refresh in between.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying advice — who the ReifenGlanzGel is the right call for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBefore we get to who it's for: if you've already got a thing for detailing and know what you want, you can dive straight in. For everyone else, a quick run-through of the alternatives in the range is worth it so the call really fits. As a rule: if you're after high gloss, grab the gel. If you like it fast, the spray. If you prefer a matt look, the Matt-Effect. And if you need big volumes, the PROFILINE version. All four earn their place — the question is what fits the situation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX XTREME ReifenGlanzGel \"Ultra Wet Look\" suits anyone who cares about the final look. That sounds obvious, but it isn't: if you just want to feed the rubber without needing high gloss, you're better off with a tyre dressing without a shine effect. But if you're prepping a car for a handover, a shoot, a sale or simply for the Sunday drive and the whole picture has to be right, the XTREME ReifenGlanzGel is exactly it. The price sits in the mid range: the 500 ml bottle goes a long way with sparing dosing. A whole car needs only a few millilitres per tyre per go, so one bottle easily covers ten to fifteen jobs. For private owners with one or two cars, the 500 ml bottle is very economical over the long run. As a companion product before tyre care, a tyre cleaner for the prep is the move — that way the gel gets maximum grip and durability. Paired with a wheel care product and a final vehicle sealant, you've got a full detailing workflow that shows the car at its best all round. If you regularly detail several cars and need bigger volumes, take a look at the PROFILINE version — but for the occasional detailer, the XTREME ReifenGlanzGel is more than enough and dead easy to use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe product also makes real sense for owners who give their car a full detail a few times a year — say before spring, after the winter salt, or before a longer spell parked up. After the wash, a cared-for tyre not only looks better, it's better protected for the months ahead. Regularity is what makes the difference: lay the gel on after every second wash and you keep the protective film going, with no worrying about faded or brittle rubber.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOne last note for new customers: the gel is water-based and has no harsh solvents that could attack the rubber over time. It's built for outdoor use and formulated to be UV-resistant. The bottle with a dosing cap is easy to handle and stops unwanted leaks in the car or the boot. For professional detailers running it every day, SONAX offers bulk options through the trade — a look at the PROFILINE line is worth it in that case. If you're unsure which version suits your car and use profile, feel free to ask Detailing1 directly — we'll help you make the right call, whether it's for a single car or a whole fleet.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":49160878686543,"sku":"D1-SNX-02352410","price":16.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/Sonax-XTREME-ReifenGlanzGel-Ultra-Wet-Look-6.png?v=1721514339"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-reifenglanzspray-wet-look-reifenpflege","title":"XTREME ReifenGlanzSpray \"Wet Look\" Tyre Care","description":"\u003ch2\u003eDeep-black wet-look shine in under five minutes — SONAX XTREME ReifenGlanzSpray \"Wet Look\"\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does a tyre care spray with a wet-look effect actually do? The aerosol spray from SONAX's XTREME line lays an even protective film across the tyre sidewall, pushes the black deep and saturated, and shields the rubber from UV and premature cracking at the same time.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWell-kept tyres are what visually separate a freshly detailed car from one that's only been washed. The sidewall is the giveaway: tyres look grey, dull or cracked when they get no care — even when the paint above them is flawless. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME ReifenGlanzSpray \"Wet Look\"\u003c\/strong\u003e steps in right here: the aerosol formula in the 400 ml can goes on straight from the can, no brush or applicator sponge needed. A thin, even mist from about 20 cm away, five minutes to soak in — and you've got the deep-black wet look that makes tyres look like they just came off a pro detailer's rig.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDeep-black wet-look shine with no tools.\u003c\/strong\u003e The aerosol format is the real application win: no brush, no foam applicator, no cloth. The formula spreads itself in a fine mist across the sidewall and builds an even film that lifts the rubber's black with light-refracting components. The result: tyres that look fresh and cared for — not faded or grey.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eUV protection heads off premature cracking and greying.\u003c\/strong\u003e Sunlight is the number-one enemy of rubber tyres: UV breaks down the plasticisers in the rubber, the surface goes brittle, cracks and loses its black for good. The ReifenGlanzSpray carries UV stabilisers that slow this down. Used regularly, the spray noticeably extends the sidewall's visual lifespan — especially for cars parked outdoors a lot or driven in sunny regions.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eGoes a long way — one 400 ml can for about 40 tyres.\u003c\/strong\u003e With a thin, even coat (the recommended amount), one can covers roughly 40 full tyre treatments. That's 10 complete car sets. For the private owner it means one can lasts about a year at monthly use. That makes the spray one of the most cost-efficient tyre care options in the SONAX range.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e For the best wet-look effect, clear the tyre of old dressing residue, dried-on silicone grease and road grime with a tyre cleaner or a mild all-purpose cleaner before you spray. A clean tyre takes the ReifenGlanzSpray on more evenly — on a dirty surface you get dull patches wherever grime throws off the spread. After cleaning, let the tyre dry fully before you apply the spray: moisture trapped under the dressing film cuts durability right down. Always run the spray in a circular motion across the whole sidewall from a steady 20 cm — short bursts up close leave drippy spots that dry unevenly later. If you want even more depth, lay down a second, very thin coat after it's soaked in.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAerosol technology — how the SONAX XTREME ReifenGlanzSpray \"Wet Look\" builds deep-black shine\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe aerosol formula of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME ReifenGlanzSpray \"Wet Look\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is built for the specific demands of tyre rubber. Tyre rubber is porous, elastic and heavily textured — nothing like smooth car paint. A tyre dressing therefore has to work into the pores rather than sitting on top and later flinging off or transferring onto brakes and rotors. The ReifenGlanzSpray carries low-viscosity care components that pull deep into the rubber surface, revive the plasticisers and leave a thin, gripping gloss film behind at the same time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe wet-look finish comes from light-refracting components in the formula that intensify the black's depth. Fresh, clean rubber has a natural, rich black — through UV, temperature swings and dirt build-up that black fades to a dull grey. The ReifenGlanzSpray formula carries black-pigment boosters and polymers that reverse this grey both visually and in fact: the rubber's black returns to a level close to freshly delivered new tyres. The gloss level sits deliberately in the high-gloss wet-look range — visibly stronger than the natural satin sheen of a well-kept tyre.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe UV-protection components in the spray matter more for long-term tyre care than the instant visual hit. Rubber contains plasticisers (antiozonants and antioxidants) built in during manufacture that keep the tyre elastic across its life. UV and ozone break these plasticisers down — that leads to cracking, especially on the sidewall, and to permanent brittleness on the surface. UV-stabilising dressings like the ReifenGlanzSpray slow this breakdown by shielding the surface with UV filters. No dressing can stop the plasticiser breakdown for good — but regular use, especially over summer storage or heavy sun exposure, noticeably extends the tyre's visual lifespan.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eImportant for vehicle safety: the ReifenGlanzSpray is meant for the sidewall, not the tread. The tyre's tread has to stay dry and grippy — any dressing on the tread would cut grip and is a safety risk. When you spray, cover the tread carefully or spray directly away from it, off the sidewall. The spray is thin enough to grip the sidewall and not drip onto the tread when it's applied correctly from 20 cm. After application let the car sit at least 30 minutes before moving it — so the product soaks in fully and excess residue doesn't fling onto the brakes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eApplying ReifenGlanzSpray — distance, spray burst and dwell time\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe ReifenGlanzSpray \"Wet Look\" application flow is built for speed: clean, dry tyre — shake the can — spray thin and even across the whole sidewall from about 20 cm — leave it 5 minutes — done. No masking, no wiping, no buffing. The whole care job on a set of tyres runs under 10 minutes with a bit of practice, prep included.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe 20 cm distance is a precise figure, not a rough guide. Too close (under 15 cm) builds a film that's too thick and wet, dries unevenly and leaves drip marks. Too far (over 30 cm) drops the hit rate and wastes spray without enough product landing on the sidewall. The circular hand motion while spraying matters: instead of aiming the can at one spot and holding it, run it evenly across the sidewall and cover the whole thing from the rim edge to the tread.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor a professional detail where you also want to dress the inner wheel arch and the inside of the tyre, the aerosol format is a real fit: the mist reaches awkward spots too, without having to work an applicator in there. The spray doesn't throw as heavy a mist as a pressure washer, so you don't get excessive overspray onto neighbouring surfaces. Even so, watch out when spraying that no wheel faces, brake calipers or lug holes get hit directly — the spray can leave oily marks on polished alloy faces that then have to be cleaned separately.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn cars with wide sport tyres or standout low-profile tyres, the sidewall is an especially important visual part of the whole look. Here it pays to check any tyre markings (white or yellow tyre lettering) before the ReifenGlanzSpray: the spray darkens white raised lettering on the sidewall slightly. For tyres with whitewall markings, a separate cleaning step for the light areas is worth it before the gloss spray goes on the dark sidewall parts.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe 5-minute dwell time is given as a minimum. In colder outdoor temperatures under 10°C, allow 10–15 minutes, since the formula soaks into the rubber pores more slowly in the cold. In summer above 25°C the spray soaks in faster and can be fully dry within 3 minutes in direct sun. As a rule: the spray has fully soaked in once the surface flips from wet-glossy to dry deep-black. If you want to check whether it's holding before you wipe: a light touch with your finger — if it's still slightly tacky, it needs another minute or two.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUV protection and durability — how long the wet-look effect lasts\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHow long the ReifenGlanzSpray effect holds depends on several factors that can swing widely day-to-day. Under normal conditions (car parked dry, moderate weather, occasional drives) the wet-look shine holds 4–8 weeks before rain, dirt build-up and mechanical wear visibly knock it back. With heavy use — daily driving, rain, muddy roads — the gloss can already be noticeably reduced after 2 weeks and needs a refresh.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eRain is the biggest enemy of tyre-care durability: water pressure on the sidewall while driving washes the protective film off step by step. If you regularly drive or wash your car through rain, you'll want to refresh the tyre care more often — once a month is a good rhythm for hard-used cars. For cars that mostly sit dry or only get driven occasionally, a treatment every 6–8 weeks can be enough to hold the visual standard.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAn often-overlooked point is what tyre care does for wheel cleaning at the next wash: dressed tyres with a protective film take on less road grime and brake dust in their surface, since the porous rubber is sealed by the care film. That means less cleaner and effort next time you clean — an indirect time saving from regular tyre care that detailers come to appreciate fast day-to-day. Clean tyres stay clean longer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor cars in long-term storage (classic-car winter layup, seasonal vehicles) the ReifenGlanzSpray is a sensible care tool before you tuck them away: a fresh layer of UV protection on the tyres before the car sits for months shields the sidewalls from static cracking caused by ozone and dry storage air. When you pull the car back out the tyres then look visually fresher than without care before storage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eReifenGlanzSpray compared — spray vs. gel, matt effect and the PROFILINE variant\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWithin the SONAX tyre-care range the XTREME ReifenGlanzSpray has its clearly defined place alongside other products. Its direct sibling is the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-reifenglanzgel-ultra-wet-look-reifenpflege\"\u003eSONAX XTREME ReifenGlanzGel \"Ultra Wet Look\"\u003c\/a\u003e: the gel carries more care concentrate per application, goes on with a foam applicator and builds an even stronger, almost paint-like high gloss. The difference is in application comfort: the spray goes on faster and suits regular quick care and cars with awkward wheel arches; the gel delivers more depth and durability for show prep or when you want especially intense gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-reifenpfleger-matt-effect-reifenpflege\"\u003eSONAX XTREME ReifenPfleger \"Matt-Effect\"\u003c\/a\u003e is the counterpart for drivers who prefer the natural, matt look of new tyres — no high gloss, no wet-look finish. Many sports-car makers expressly recommend matt tyre care, since high-gloss products clash with the brand look. The Matt-Effect is formulated similarly on the inside (UV protection, care components) but without light-refracting gloss components. For classic cars, sports cars and cars on wide tyres, the matt look is often a better fit than the intense wet look.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-reifenglanz-wet-look-reifenpflege\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE ReifenGlanz \"Wet Look\"\u003c\/a\u003e variant is the professional version for detailing businesses: same wet-look finish as the XTREME spray, but in a formulation and pack size for constant professional use. The PROFILINE product has a higher care-agent content and a deeper working depth — ideal when you're detailing many cars a day and the repeat rate is high. For the private user with one or two cars the XTREME ReifenGlanzSpray is the more cost-efficient pick; the pro reaches for the PROFILINE for higher yield per application.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying wet-look tyre care — who the SONAX XTREME ReifenGlanzSpray is the first choice for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME ReifenGlanzSpray \"Wet Look\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is the right pick for anyone who wants to keep their tyres looking top-notch quickly and without fuss — without a long detailing workflow. If you want to smarten up the tyres quickly after the car wash, the spray does all four wheels in under 10 minutes. For detailing beginners the spray is the ideal way into tyre care, because the application is almost foolproof: no slopping, no uneven coat with the sponge, no wiping off excess. The aerosol format forgives beginner mistakes better than gel products.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor professional detailing businesses the ReifenGlanzSpray suits quick turnaround during vehicle handovers or in-between cleans especially well: short application time, good result, no applicator handling. For details that demand maximum gloss and maximum durability — show cars, vehicle presentations, new-car handovers — the PROFILINE gel is worth it for even more intense effect. The XTREME ReifenGlanzSpray is the product for everyday; the gel for the show.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCombination tip: if you also care for the car's paint regularly, you can slot the ReifenGlanzSpray into a smooth overall workflow: wash the car, dry the paint, then treat the tyres with the spray while the paint air-dries — no time lost, no extra effort. As a verified SONAX dealer, Detailing1 stocks the XTREME ReifenGlanzSpray \"Wet Look\" permanently. The product comes in the 400 ml can — the classic starting point for anyone who wants to give their tyres what they're missing at every wash: the rich, deep-black shine that makes a car complete.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"400 ml","offer_id":49160878719311,"sku":"D1-SNX-02353000","price":12.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/Sonax-XTREME-ReifenGlanzSpray-Wet-Look-3.png?v=1721514273"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-scheibenklar-glasreiniger","title":"XTREME ScheibenKlar Glass Cleaner","description":"\u003ch2\u003eStreak-free vision on any glass — SONAX XTREME ScheibenKlar in everyday use\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat makes a good car glass cleaner? A good glass cleaner fully dissolves greasy film, tobacco residue and smear marks without leaving residue of its own — the basic requirement for clear vision and judder-free wiping on the move.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHazy windows and smeary wiper blades are one of the most common complaints inside a car — and the cause is almost always the same enemy: greasy film. Silicone-based care products, dashboard dressings, cigarette smoke and the skin oils from touching the glass build up an invisible film that scatters light in bright sun or at night and cuts down your vision. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME ScheibenKlar\u003c\/strong\u003e is a glass cleaner built specifically for car windows, in a 500 ml spray bottle, that pulls greasy film, smears and deposits off the glass reliably and leaves nothing behind.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eGrease-cutting formula for streak-free cleaning inside and out.\u003c\/strong\u003e ScheibenKlar runs a dedicated formulation that chemically breaks down greasy film, silicone residue and tobacco deposits and lifts them off completely. On the inside of the glass as well as the outside you get a clear, streak-free surface that throws no glare patches in direct sun.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFast drying with no washer-fluid residue.\u003c\/strong\u003e The formula dries quickly with no limescale spots or chemical residue that could get in the way of anything you apply next. That makes ScheibenKlar a solid prep step before a glass sealant, since the surface is clean and dry the moment you finish.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e500 ml format for regular use in everyday driving.\u003c\/strong\u003e The handy spray bottle is ideal for keeping your own car's windows clear or for professional use in valeting and detailing. The 500 ml fill lasts for plenty of cleaning rounds, so you get an economical yet regular routine without the hassle of constantly restocking.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e The most common mistake with glass cleaning is using the same cloth for the inside and the outside of the window. Always keep separate microfibre cloths — one for the inside, one for the outside. Spray the cloth, not the glass directly, so you don't overspray onto the dashboard or paint. On the inside, wipe in diagonal passes so any streaks show up straight away and you can go back over them on the spot.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eGreasy film and tobacco deposits on glass — the chemistry behind it, and why a household cleaner won't cut it\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe greasy film on the inside of car windows comes from a mix of sources: outgassing from plastic and leather parts in the cabin, silicone-based dashboard dressings, tobacco smoke, and skin oils from touching the glass as you get in and out. This invisible film holds organic fats and siloxanes that bond firmly to the glass and can't be shifted by water alone, because grease is hydrophobic and water simply won't pick it up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHousehold glass cleaners are often only half-suited to cleaning car windows. Many of them contain ammonia or other chemicals that can damage painted or leather surfaces if you hold the bottle too close or the product spits onto surfaces that aren't built for those chemicals. On top of that, a lot of all-purpose cleaners leave limescale residue that shows up on the glass as it dries. An automotive glass cleaner like ScheibenKlar is tuned to what a car window actually needs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe season makes a noticeable difference to how much cleaning you need, too. In summer, insect residue and baked-on road spray on the windscreen are the biggest challenge; in winter you add de-icer residue and salt mist that dry on at the bottom edge of the glass and leave a stubborn white film. ScheibenKlar works all year round and handles both scenarios — the formula breaks down organic residue and mineral deposits alike, so you don't need a separate summer and winter product.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne more critical point concerns cars with tinted windows. Cheap glass cleaners with overly aggressive solvents can damage filmed windows or factory tint by softening the film. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-scheibenklar-glasreiniger\"\u003eSONAX XTREME ScheibenKlar\u003c\/a\u003e is designed to be compatible with automotive glass, tinted windows included. The formula is gentle on window film and tint while still cleaning effectively.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA suitable glass cleaner matters for motorhomes, caravans and boats as well: acrylic and polycarbonate glazing, the kind you find in these vehicles, is more sensitive to solvent-based cleaners than classic toughened glass. For surfaces like that, go for a glass cleaner that's rated as compatible with plastic glazing. If you're not sure whether ScheibenKlar suits a particular glazing type, test it first on a small, out-of-the-way spot.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere to use it in the car — windscreen, interior cleaning and prep for a glass sealant\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe main job for ScheibenKlar is cleaning the inside of the windscreen and the side windows. These surfaces collect the most greasy film, since they're the most exposed to outgassing from the cabin. Regular cleaning — at least once a month, or whenever your vision is noticeably affected, is the rule of thumb — keeps the glass clear and cuts down the smearing you get when the washer system spreads fluid across already greasy glass instead of clearing it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn the outside of the windscreen, ScheibenKlar is ideal for getting rid of insect residue, dirt spray and the wiper smears that rubber blades leave on dirty glass. A thorough outside clean of the windscreen makes real sense heading into the winter months, to give de-icers and glass sealants the best possible grip. Clean glass takes a sealant like the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-scheibenklar-2-in-1-glasreiniger-versiegelung\"\u003eXTREME Ceramic ScheibenKlar \"2 in 1\"\u003c\/a\u003e far better than a grease-hazed surface ever will.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn professional detailing, ScheibenKlar goes in as the pre-clean step before a glass sealant. Silicone-based glass sealants only bond properly to the glass when no greasy film is blocking the adhesion. A consistent pre-clean with ScheibenKlar makes sure the sealant reaches its full lifespan and the water beading runs evenly across the whole pane.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAt dealerships and in valeting, glass cleaning is often one of the last and most telling steps before the car is handed back. A spotless windscreen with no greasy smears or streaking tells the customer at a glance that the work was done with care. Skimp on this final detail and you lose that — but get it right and you leave a lasting impression with a tool that genuinely does what it promises: crystal-clear, streak-free glass that reflects the quality of the whole job and stays in the customer's memory.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eTechnique for a streak-free finish — what really matters in glass cleaning\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTechnique is what decides the result in glass cleaning. Work the glass in two passes. First pass wet — spray ScheibenKlar onto a microfibre cloth, wet the surface evenly and let the cleaner do its work. Second pass dry — buff the glass off with a second, clean microfibre cloth in crossing strokes. This two-stage approach lifts the greasy film on the first pass and clears it completely on the second.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen is the glass actually clean? A simple field test gives you the answer: look at the glass against the light, or at a shallow angle to the light source. Haze and grease residue show up straight away as a milky cloudiness that's often invisible head-on. Only once the glass looks evenly clear and transparent from every angle is the job done. This backlight check is the most reliable quality test for glass cleaning and is worth making routine at the end of every window clean.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe inside of the glass calls for one extra note: on big, steeply raked windscreens, cleaning the inside is awkward by design. A cleaning pad with an angled handle, or an extended reach tool that holds the microfibre cloth, makes the work easier in the corners your normal arm reach struggles with. Even, gentle pressure and deliberately overlapping diagonal strokes give you the most reliable result, and the backlight check shows you straight away and unmistakably whether any patches need going over again.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA pro tip for the most stubborn kind of greasy film: if a faint haze is still there after two cleaning passes, an extra pass with an IPA-soaked cloth before the ScheibenKlar step can help. IPA cuts through particularly stubborn silicone residue that normal glass cleaners don't fully break down. After the IPA cloth, go over it again as usual with ScheibenKlar — and even years-deep grease comes off as crystal-clear glass with no streaks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn heavily smeared glass with old, dried-on silicone residue, a second full cleaning pass may be needed. This state often builds up when no suitable glass cleaner has been used for a long time, or when silicone-based dressings like dashboard spray have spat onto the glass. Keep on top of the car regularly with ScheibenKlar and you avoid stubborn deposits forming in the first place, and save yourself those drawn-out multi-pass cleans.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne spot that often gets overlooked is the rear window with its heating elements. When you clean this glass, always wipe along the heating lines — horizontally — never across them. Too much friction across the lines can damage the bond of the printed-on elements on older or already weakened cars. With a well-soaked, soft microfibre cloth and gentle pressure along the lines, the rear window cleans up without a problem too.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePicking the right cloth makes a big difference to the result as well. For glass cleaning, microfibre cloths with a short, smooth pile work best, since they leave no fibres behind and give you an even cleaning surface. Cloths with a long pile, the kind that suit drying off or laying down sealants, are less suited to glass — they leave more fibres on the cleaned surface and force an extra buffing step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eScheibenKlar vs. Ceramic ScheibenKlar vs. PROFILINE GlassCleaner — choosing the right glass-cleaning solution\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWithin the SONAX glass cleaner range there are several options with different priorities. The XTREME ScheibenKlar is the all-round glass cleaner with no added sealing properties — it cleans reliably and leaves a clean surface that's ready for further care products. It's the right pick when the focus is purely on cleaning, or when a standalone glass sealant is going on next.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you want to build up your glass-cleaning kit step by step and cost-effectively, you can start with ScheibenKlar as the base and add the Ceramic ScheibenKlar later as a handy upgrade for cars that regularly need a glass sealant. This combination — a pure cleaner for a thorough deep clean, a 2-in-1 product for the quick refresh — covers both scenarios and gives you maximum flexibility in day-to-day work without having to invest in an overly complex range.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-scheibenklar-2-in-1-glasreiniger-versiegelung\"\u003eXTREME Ceramic ScheibenKlar \"2 in 1\"\u003c\/a\u003e combines cleaning power with a ceramic seal in one step. For anyone who wants to save time and lay down a base seal on the glass at the same time, that's the more efficient option. The cleaning power is a touch less intense than the pure ScheibenKlar, since the formula is tuned for both jobs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor pros with high glass-cleaning volume, the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-glasscleaner-glasreiniger\"\u003ePROFILINE GlassCleaner (concentrate)\u003c\/a\u003e is the more economical alternative. You dilute the concentrate to the strength you want, which brings the cost per car right down. For outfits cleaning a lot of car windows every day, the concentrate is the more professional choice over the ready-to-use ScheibenKlar in the 500 ml spray bottle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying advice — who the XTREME ScheibenKlar is the right pick for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME ScheibenKlar\u003c\/strong\u003e is the right pick for car owners and detailers after a reliable, all-round glass clean with no frills. The 500 ml format is ideal for the regular upkeep of one car or several, private or commercial, without needing the economics of a big pro container. If you value clear vision and want to keep haze and streaking out of your line of sight on the move, you've got a dependable tool here for the regular window routine. It's quick and easy to get the hang of — and the result shows the moment you drive into low sun or a night run.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs a verified SONAX stockist, Detailing1 carries ScheibenKlar in the range. If you want to run it as part of a full glass cleaning and care routine, Detailing1 also has every matching add-on from the SONAX line — from the pre-clean through to a long-lasting ceramic seal for car windows.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor fleet operations and outfits running a lot of cars, it's worth checking whether the concentrate format of the PROFILINE GlassCleaner works out cheaper than the ready-to-use product. Across regular use on several cars, the cost difference adds up fast. ScheibenKlar, on the other hand, is the ideal pick for businesses or private users who'd rather have a simple, ready-to-go product with no diluting.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the end, picking the right glass cleaner comes down to how often you use it and the result you're after. If you clean your car rarely and want maximum simplicity, ScheibenKlar has you perfectly covered. If you professionally detail a lot of cars and want to optimise both cost and result, you can build the SONAX glass cleaner range as a system — with ScheibenKlar as the standard cleaner, the Ceramic ScheibenKlar for sealant upkeep, and the concentrate for high-volume work. As a verified SONAX stockist, Detailing1 is glad to advise on putting together the right glass-cleaning range for your particular business or use case.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":49160878915919,"sku":"D1-SNX-02382410","price":8.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/Sonax-XTREME-ScheibenKlar-4.png?v=1721514350"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-richfoam-shampoo-autoshampoo","title":"XTREME Rich-Foam Shampoo Car Shampoo","description":"\u003ch2\u003eMaximum foam for the foam lance and 2-bucket wash — SONAX XTREME Rich-Foam Shampoo, tested in the field\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhich wash method does a Rich-Foam shampoo really shine at? It's built for the foam lance and a foam pre-wash — thick foam clings to the paint and lifts dirt gently, before sponge or wash mitt ever touch the surface.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you love your car, you know it: that first contact with water is the riskiest moment for the paint. Dirt dragged across the surface during a pre-wash with a mitt or sponge leaves swirls behind. \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Rich-Foam Shampoo\u003c\/strong\u003e steps in right there. A pre-wash with thick, long-clinging foam pulls road film, bug splatter and loose grit off the surface before the first contact wash starts. The result is a far safer wash that keeps your paint swirl-free for the long run.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThick, long-clinging foam for an effective pre-wash.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Rich-Foam formula is dialled in for maximum foam, whether you're running a foam lance on a pressure washer or a foam attachment on the garden hose. The foam sticks to the paint, runs off slowly and gets enough dwell time to break dirt down chemically before you rinse it away.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003epH-neutral and coating-safe for modern protection layers.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Rich-Foam shampoo won't touch wax or ceramic sealants. The pH-neutral range looks after the protection you've laid down and helps coatings, waxes and polymer sealants last. You can use it on freshly sealed cars without a second thought.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHigh-yield concentration in 1 and 5 litres.\u003c\/strong\u003e XTREME Rich-Foam Shampoo comes in 1-litre and 5-litre containers. In the foam lance you can vary the concentration — more or less shampoo depending on how dirty the car is. For high-volume operations the 5-litre container is the more economical option.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Use the Rich-Foam shampoo as the first step in a low-contact pre-wash routine: lay the foam down, let it dwell for 3–5 minutes (don't let it dry), rinse off at low pressure, then carry on with the mitt and fresh shampoo in the 2-bucket method. This two-stage approach cuts down the amount of dirt you drag around during the contact wash hugely. In summer or under direct sun, shorten the dwell time, otherwise the product dries on hot paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eRich-Foam formula and foam tech — why thick foam is more than just a good look\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFoam in the wash often gets written off as eye candy — loads of foam looks professional, but does it actually do more? The honest answer is: yes, but not for the reasons most people think. Cleaning power comes from the surfactants in the shampoo, not the foam itself. What thick, long-clinging foam buys you is time: it keeps the surfactant-rich shampoo on the paint longer, stretches the dwell time, and lets the chemistry break down dirt better before the rinse water carries it off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Rich-Foam Shampoo\u003c\/strong\u003e uses a formula that, dosed right in the foam lance, produces unusually dense, coherent foam. The bubbles burst slowly — the foam stays put on the paint for several minutes instead of running straight off. That's trickier to formulate than just \"lots of soap\", because the foam has to be dense enough to cling and fine enough to lay down evenly at the same time. Coarse bubbles burst fast and spread the cleaner unevenly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnyone running a car with a fresh ceramic coating tends to wonder whether a foam shampoo might damage it. With pH-neutral products the answer is clear: no. Alkaline shampoos with pH \u0026gt; 9 can attack the polymer structure of ceramic coatings and wear down the hydrophobic properties over time. pH-neutral products like XTREME Rich-Foam Shampoo have no chemical affinity for the Si-O bonds of ceramic coatings and leave them untouched. That matters most for cars that get a professional coating regularly and need their lifespan maxed out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne detail worth knowing: compatibility with different foam-lance types. Foam lances for pressure washers (typically Kärcher, Nilfisk) build more foam density through the nozzle than foam attachments for garden hoses. The Rich-Foam shampoo works in both systems, but paired with a quality high-pressure foam lance it delivers its best. The concentration in the lance bottle should be varied between 1:5 and 1:10 depending on the model — a quick test on a small panel shows you fast which dose gives the best foam density for your gear.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you're reaching for the Rich-Foam shampoo for the first time, start on a clean test panel to find the right dose for your own foam lance. Depending on water hardness, water pressure and lance model, the ideal mix ratio shifts. Too dilute and you get little foam; too concentrated and it dries early and leaves streaks. The dosing guide on the bottle is a good starting point, but a personal trial run gets you the best result for your specific kit.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn the chemistry inside XTREME Rich-Foam Shampoo: it uses anionic surfactants as the main cleaning component, backed up by foam-boosting additives. Anionic surfactants have a strong affinity for oily soiling like road film, grease and bug residue — the most common kinds of dirt on car paint. The surfactant molecules wrap around dirt particles and form micelles that disperse in the water and get carried off in the rinse. That mechanism works regardless of the foam — but the longer dwell time the foam gives you lets the surfactants wrap the dirt fully.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing Rich-Foam shampoo right — foam lance, 2-bucket method and hand wash\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe best approach depends on the kit you've got. With a foam lance on a pressure washer: fill the lance with shampoo diluted 1:5 to 1:10, foam the dry car from top to bottom, let it dwell 3–5 minutes, rinse off at medium pressure top to bottom. Then a normal contact wash with a fresh wash bucket and mitt. You can use the Rich-Foam shampoo for that second step too — or, for the best of both, combine it with \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-activeshampoo-autoshampoo\"\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic ActiveShampoo\u003c\/a\u003e for the contact wash, which adds extra Si-Carbon care components.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the straight 2-bucket method without a foam lance: put 30–50 ml of Rich-Foam shampoo into 10 litres of water in the wash bucket, foam it up with the pressure washer or garden spray to help build the suds. Dip the mitt into the shampoo water, wash the car panel by panel from top to bottom, and rinse the mitt in the clean-water bucket between panels (two-bucket method) so you don't carry dirt back onto the paint. The Rich-Foam shampoo throws enough foam even in a classic bucket wash for a silky-smooth glide.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you do seasonal washes — say the first wash after winter, when road-salt residue and thaw grime cover the underbody and wheel arches — pair the Rich-Foam shampoo with a separate underbody shampoo or engine cleaner. The Rich-Foam shampoo is built for the visible paintwork, not for scrubbing out underbody sections. Keep the jobs cleanly separated and you get the best result: Rich-Foam for the bodywork, dedicated underbody products for the rough areas underneath.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCars with a ceramic coating or polymer sealant benefit especially from the Rich-Foam shampoo's pH-neutral formula. Alkaline shampoos used regularly can wear down a sealant's hydrophobic properties step by step — pH-neutral products keep them intact. If you wash your own car often and want a sealant to last for months, stick to pH-neutral shampoos only. The Rich-Foam shampoo is compatible with all common ceramic coatings, wax layers and polymer sealants.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWash results and where it fits — what a Rich-Foam shampoo can do\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter a full Rich-Foam pre-wash and contact wash, the car comes out streak-free clean with a light wet gloss that dries down to evenly bright paint. The shampoo leaves no residue and no white streaky film — a problem some cheap shampoos throw up in hard water. The Rich-Foam shampoo is well suited to hard-water regions too, because the formulation keeps limescale settling on the paint to a minimum.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor heavily soiled cars — lots of road salt in winter, heavy bug residue in summer, brake-dust build-up around the wheel arches — the Rich-Foam shampoo alone isn't enough. A chemical pre-treatment with an active cleaner or a bug remover before foaming is needed in those cases. The Rich-Foam shampoo then handles the pre-loosened dirt in the second step. As an all-weather base shampoo for regularly maintained cars with average everyday soiling, the Rich-Foam shampoo is completely up to the job.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne angle rarely discussed with car shampoos: the scent. In professional settings, strong-smelling shampoos can get wearing over a long day in enclosed spaces. XTREME Rich-Foam Shampoo has a subtle, fresh smell of its own that won't bother you at work. That's a detail that makes a difference over hours of daily use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor pros in the car-wash trade, the 5-litre container is an economical setup. At a dose of 50 ml per wash (foam lance), a 5-litre container covers 100 cars. That works out to about 34 cents of product per car — an order of magnitude that's easy to budget for and barely registers in the total cost.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eShampoo comparison — Rich-Foam vs. Foam+Seal vs. FoamGiant vs. Ceramic Active\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX XTREME shampoo range covers different needs with different products. \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Rich-Foam Shampoo\u003c\/strong\u003e is the pure wash shampoo — maximum foam performance for a careful pre-wash, with no added sealant. If you want to top up the protection layer with every wash, reach for \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-foam-seal-schaumversiegelung-autoshampoo-versiegelung\"\u003eSONAX XTREME Foam+Seal\u003c\/a\u003e: it carries a polymer sealant component that goes on with every wash and builds the paint's hydrophobicity bit by bit. The trade-off: it leaves a light build-up film that can cause slight hazing with frequent use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBeyond the differences in foam tech, surface compatibility matters too. XTREME Rich-Foam Shampoo is suited to painted surfaces, chrome, glass and plastic exterior parts. For wheels, a separate wheel cleaner is the way to go, since wheels usually carry more brake dust and grease than a standard shampoo can shift efficiently. The usual day-to-day call: pre-treat the wheels with wheel cleaner first, then foam the whole car with the Rich-Foam shampoo — that way the wheel grime doesn't get carried onto the bodywork.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-foamgiant-shampoo-autoshampoo\"\u003eSONAX XTREME FoamGiant Shampoo\u003c\/a\u003e is also built for maximum foam, but optimised for pro foam lances and pressure-pot systems. Its viscosity and concentration differ slightly from the Rich-Foam shampoo, which gives different results depending on the foam-lance type. A direct comparison on your own gear gives the best answer to which product works better for your specific kit.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe question of rinsing after the foam pass deserves attention too. Rinsing the foam off fully before the contact wash matters, so the mitt works on the cleanest surface possible in the second step — not on a mix of foam and the dirt trapped in it. If you're working with hard water, a very light final rinse with deionised water at the end helps avoid limescale spots when drying. But that's about drying management after the wash, not the shampoo itself.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic ActiveShampoo, by contrast, has a different focus: it carries Si-Carbon tech for coating-safe care and is the shampoo of choice for ceramic-coated cars that should get a Si-Carbon top-up with every wash. If you just want to wash an uncoated car clean, the Rich-Foam shampoo has you fully covered; if you want to fold coating care into the wash, the Ceramic ActiveShampoo serves you better.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWho the SONAX Rich-Foam Shampoo is the right pick for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Rich-Foam shampoo is the entry-level shampoo for anyone who wants to step up their wash routine with a foam pre-wash. If you own a pressure washer or a foam lance and want to cut out the swirl-creating moments of the contact wash, the Rich-Foam shampoo is the right product for the pre-wash step. It's easy to dose, versatile, and sits in a price bracket that's no financial hurdle even for regular users.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor operations cleaning customer cars regularly and caring about gentle paint care, the 5-litre container is the right size. The scalable dosing gives you the freedom to adjust shampoo concentration as needed — from a light routine wash to a heavier pre-clean ahead of a polishing pass. For home users without a pressure washer, the Rich-Foam shampoo in the 1-litre container is the way to go. With a simple foam attachment for the garden hose you can run a foam pre-wash without a pressure washer too — the foam density isn't quite as impressive, but it's enough for a far safer contact wash than going in without a pre-wash. Even on a parking lot with a single bucket and a microfibre wash mitt, the Rich-Foam shampoo works fine as a normal wash soap — you don't get the full foam benefit then, but the cleaning power and coating compatibility stay intact.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs a verified SONAX dealer, Detailing1 keeps the XTREME Rich-Foam Shampoo in both container sizes permanently in stock and recommends it as the base shampoo for any car-wash workflow that values paint-safe cleaning.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":49160879702351,"sku":"D1-SNX-02483000","price":11.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":49310954193231,"sku":"D1-SNX-2485000","price":34.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/Sonax-XTREME-RichFoam-Shampoo-Auto-Shampoo-1-Liter-1.png?v=1721514365"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-felgenschutzversiegelung-felgen-versiegelung","title":"XTREME Wheel Protection Sealant — Sealant for Wheels","description":"\u003ch2\u003eProtect your wheels from brake dust and grime — with the SONAX XTREME FelgenSchutzVersiegelung\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX XTREME FelgenSchutzVersiegelung do? The aerosol sealant lays down a hydrophobic barrier on the wheel, slows down how fast brake dust and salt build up again and holds for up to 6 weeks — with an easy-to-clean effect that makes the next wash a lot quicker.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you clean wheels regularly, you know the drill: the wheel is barely dry and a brown film of brake dust is already sitting on it again. Brake dust isn't just ugly — heat bakes it into the wheel material and over time it gets harder and harder to shift. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME FelgenSchutzVersiegelung\u003c\/strong\u003e breaks that cycle: the sealant builds a lasting hydrophobic barrier on the wheel surface that stops brake dust, salt and road grime from burning in — and makes the next clean far easier.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHydrophobic barrier against brake dust and salt.\u003c\/strong\u003e The sealant lays down evenly across the wheel and keeps brake dust and road grime from bonding straight to the material. The result: the wheel stays clean noticeably longer, and baked-in brake dust — the real headache after a hard drive — is cut right back.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEasy-to-clean effect for faster follow-up washes.\u003c\/strong\u003e Water and dirt bead off the sealed wheel. Whatever does settle comes off at the next wash with far less effort — no more hard scrubbing, because the dirt never had direct contact with the surface.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eUp to 6 weeks of protection on every type of wheel.\u003c\/strong\u003e The sealant suits all common wheel materials — alloy, painted and steel wheels. Under normal conditions the protection holds for up to 6 weeks; after that, give it a fresh coat once the wheels are properly clean.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e The sealant only works on a properly clean, dry wheel. Clean the wheel first with the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-felgenreiniger-plus\"\u003eSONAX XTREME FelgenReiniger PLUS\u003c\/a\u003e or the FelgenBeast, dry it completely and get the leftover water out of every recess. Then shake the can and lay it on generously — don't wipe it back off. Let it cure for at least an hour before you move the car.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWheel sealant technology — how the hydrophobic barrier works on the wheel\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe heart of this wheel sealant is the water-repellent film it forms on the wheel surface. That film is hydrophobic — water and water-borne dirt particles get pushed away and bead up instead of spreading flat across the material. Brake dust, which lands on the wheel constantly on any normal drive, sticks far less well to a sealed surface and rinses off much more easily at the next wash.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe mechanism is close to a paint sealant: the product fills the microscopic peaks and troughs in the wheel surface and leaves a smoother, less reactive finish. Brake dust carries iron particles that can burn into rough surfaces while they're hot — right after a heavy braking manoeuvre. On a sealed wheel that brake dust has less to grab, and it lets go far more easily at the next clean.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs an aerosol, the sealant spreads evenly across the whole wheel — including the awkward spots like the back of the spokes and the recesses around the wheel bolts. Those areas often end up only half covered with wax or paste sealants. The spray format gets you a more even layer than any hand-applied method.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne thing to be clear about: the sealant doesn't stop brake dust landing on the wheel — physics won't allow that. What it changes is how hard the surface holds on to it, so the brake dust doesn't work its way deep into micropores and roughness and comes off more easily at the next clean. It's a subtle difference, but day-to-day you feel it: wash a freshly sealed wheel after two weeks of driving and the brake dust comes off with far less elbow grease than on an untreated one. The chemistry explains it — bare wheel surfaces have a higher surface energy, so dirt particles hang on harder. The hydrophobic coating drops that energy and makes the surface far less sticky for particles.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSealing wheels — step by step to lasting protection\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePrep is what makes or breaks a wheel sealant — every bit as much as with a paint sealant. A sealant laid down on a dirty or damp wheel doesn't bond properly and never builds an even protective film. So step one is a proper wheel clean: brake dust, grime and every last residue has to come off. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-felgenbeast-felgenreiniger\"\u003eSONAX FelgenBeast\u003c\/a\u003e or the XTREME FelgenReiniger PLUS are the ones to reach for — both dissolve iron particles and brake dust chemically and leave a clean surface behind.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter the clean comes proper drying. Leftover water — especially in the wheel-bolt recesses and behind the spokes — has to come out carefully. Compressed air from a compressor, or a lint-free cloth that reaches into every groove, does the job. Damp spots under the sealant leave streaks and weaken the bond.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA common first-timer mistake: going too light on the product to save it. The sealant only builds an even film if the surface is fully covered. One generous pass — the wheel should look visibly wet — is enough; a second pass after a short flash-off raises the film thickness and with it the protection. Hold the can about 20–30 cm away and you get an even spread without piling it up in single spots.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThen: shake the can and spray it evenly and generously onto the dry wheel — don't wipe it back. The sealant is meant to level out on its own. After that, let it cure for at least an hour. The car mustn't be moved or washed in that time. Don't put it on hot wheels — straight after a drive — because the extra heat messes with the cure. Once you've parked up, give it at least 30 minutes for the wheels to cool.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTip for full coverage: once the visible face is sealed, roll the car forward a touch to get at the back of the spokes — the rear of the spoke takes a heavy hit of brake dust too. A second pass from behind pays off on cars that dirty up fast.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA question we get a lot: can you put the sealant on hot wheels, straight after a drive? The answer is a clear no. Hot wheels — discs and calipers hit several hundred degrees when you drive hard, and that heat travels into the wheel — speed up the cure in an uncontrolled way and leave you with an uneven film. Worst case, the solvent in the spray flashes off too fast and the film never bonds properly. Once the car is parked, wait 20–30 minutes until the wheels are only hand-warm before you start sealing. Get that right and the layer cures evenly and gives you the full protection of up to 6 weeks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBeading and easy-to-clean — what you actually notice\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe sealant changes how the wheel cleans up, and you can measure it. Without it, brake dust sticks to the wheel, bakes on with the heat off the brakes and after a few drives forms a stubborn layer that only a chemical wheel cleaner will shift. With the sealant the brake dust is still visible after a drive or two — but it's sitting flatter on the surface and rinses off far more easily at the next wash, often with the pressure washer alone and no wheel cleaner at all.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe beading on the wheel is easy to spot in wet weather or after rain: water pulls itself into droplets instead of sheeting across the surface. That means fewer water spots from limescale and a wheel that looks clean again faster once the rain stops. Anyone who preps cars regularly or works on customer cars knows it: clean-looking wheels are a big part of the first impression a well-kept car makes. Brown wheels make even freshly polished paint look tired — clean, glossy wheels lift the whole car. So the sealant isn't just a cleaning aid, it's an investment in how the car keeps looking.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe protection tails off over time — after roughly 6 weeks of normal driving it's worth cleaning the wheels and laying a fresh coat down. Keep to that rhythm and the wheels stay in a state where brake dust and iron oxidation never burn deep into the surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA practical note on how long it lasts: those 6 weeks apply to normal driving. If you're on the brakes a lot — city traffic, track days, long descents — you make more brake dust and more heat at the wheel. The layer takes more mechanical and thermal punishment and can give up sooner. For that kind of use, a slightly tighter 4-week re-coat keeps the protection where it should be. Drive mostly motorway miles with little braking and you'll find the sealant lasts noticeably longer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWheel sealant compared — spray vs. paste vs. ceramic\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX XTREME FelgenSchutzVersiegelung sits where you want quick, repeatable protection for regular use. Next to paste sealants that have to be worked in by hand, the time you spend is far lower: spray it on, let it cure, done. And the aerosol covers the awkward parts of the wheel more evenly than anything applied by hand.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCeramic products like the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-sprayversiegelung-spruehversiegelung\"\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic Spray-Versiegelung\u003c\/a\u003e are built first and foremost for body panels and paint. Wheels live with a completely different thermal load — right next to the brake disc, swinging from cold to hot and back. Dedicated wheel sealants are tuned for that and usually do better here than an all-round ceramic. For pure wheel sealing with good value and an easy re-coat rhythm, the XTREME FelgenSchutzVersiegelung is a reliable mid-field product with clear strengths in everyday care.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe other comparison is effort. Paste sealants for wheels have to be worked in, left to cure and then buffed off — that's several minutes per wheel plus microfibres and gloves. The aerosol is on all four wheels in 2–3 minutes, no tools, no fiddly follow-up. For regular maintenance sealing — every 4–6 weeks after the wash — the aerosol is clearly the easier call. For a first seal after a full wheel polish, where the surface has been prepped properly, paste products can bond better and hold longer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying a wheel sealant — who the SONAX XTREME FelgenSchutzVersiegelung is for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis wheel sealant is the right call if you want your wheels to stay clean but don't fancy fighting baked-on brake dust at every single wash. It makes particular sense on cars that get driven hard and therefore throw a lot of brake dust at the wheels — and on cars that go through the wash bay or get hit with the pressure washer regularly, because that's where the easy-to-clean effect really speeds things up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor detailers prepping customer cars that need to keep looking good for a while, the sealant is an efficient last step in the wheel work. A proper clean — brake dust fully off — plus the sealant afterwards buys you the protection that keeps a clean wheel from looking grim again by the next customer visit.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWash your car often — weekly or fortnightly — and you gain the most: every wash brings mechanical wear that slowly dulls an unsealed wheel. Sealing after the wash protects the surface from that wear and keeps the wheel's original gloss for the long run. That goes double for high-gloss alloys, where brush marks or a rough cloth show up fast — the layer isn't a full mechanical shield, but it's a far better starting point than a bare, unprotected surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne last note on storage: don't keep the aerosol can in direct sun or in a car interior over summer — anything over 50 °C can raise the pressure in the can and change the formula. A cool, dry spot keeps the product good for longer and makes sure what's in the can still delivers full protection after a long shelf life.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA complete, proven wheel-care workflow: clean thoroughly first with the XTREME FelgenReiniger PLUS or the FelgenBeast — both dissolve brake dust chemically without working the wheel mechanically — then seal once everything is bone dry. Run that two-step consistently and after a few rounds you'll notice your cleaning time per wash drops and the wheels simply look fresher. Hold that rhythm every 4–6 weeks and brake dust never burns in for good, while follow-up cleaning takes far less work. The 250 ml can covers several full sealing passes on one car — for looking after a normal car's wheels that's a very economical format. For businesses sealing several cars regularly, it's worth stocking up: the can goes a long way per car and the cost per sealing pass stays very manageable.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":49160880030031,"sku":"D1-SNX-02501000","price":12.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/Sonax-XTREME-Felgen-Schutz-Versiegelung-Versiegelu-7.png?v=1721514333"},{"product_id":"sonax-cleanstar-ecocert-innenraumreiniger","title":"CleanStar \"Ecocert\" interior cleaner","description":"\u003ch2\u003eClean a whole interior, every surface at once — with the SONAX CleanStar EcoCert\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX CleanStar EcoCert do? The all-in-one interior cleaner gets every surface in the cabin clean — from glass to Alcantara to the touchscreen display — streak-free, gentle on materials, and with ECOCERT Greenlife certification.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you clean a car's interior regularly, you know the headache: one product for leather, another for plastic, a third for the glass — and the moment a delicate touchscreen or a piano-black trim panel shows up, cleaning turns into a guessing game. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CleanStar EcoCert\u003c\/strong\u003e solves that with a single bottle: a mild, ready-to-use spray that gets every material in the cabin clean, with no residue, no streaks and no risk of surface damage on the sensitive bits. On top of that comes the ECOCERT Greenlife certification — a mark of quality for detailers who care about what goes into their care products.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOne formula for every interior surface.\u003c\/strong\u003e Glass, piano black, fabric, Alcantara, leather, plastic, touchscreen displays — the CleanStar works on all of them with no streaks, residue or discolouration. You skip the constant switching between cleaners and move through the whole cabin faster and more methodically, without giving anything up on cleaning power.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eECOCERT Greenlife certification for a clear conscience.\u003c\/strong\u003e The cleaner is certified by ECOCERT Greenlife to the ECOCERT standard — meaning the ingredients meet defined requirements for biodegradability and environmental compatibility. For detailers who care about product responsibility, or want to win over customers with a green quality promise, that's a real difference from conventional interior cleaners with no certification.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eAn odour killer, not a perfume cover-up.\u003c\/strong\u003e The cleaner carries an active odour neutraliser that chemically breaks down unpleasant smells in the cabin — not just masking them with fragrance. After cleaning you're left with a pleasant, fresh scent that lifts the interior without feeling artificial or in-your-face. On cars with smoke or pet smells baked in, that's a difference you can actually notice.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Always spray the CleanStar straight onto a microfibre cloth, never onto the surface — that keeps overspray off the neighbouring materials and gives you far more control over how much moisture goes down. On touchscreens and piano-black surfaces work with minimal pressure and follow up straight away with a dry, clean cloth. For stubborn upholstery grime, rinse the cloth out with clean water now and then and re-spray — repeat until the cloth still looks clean as you wipe. That way you never rub dirt you've already picked up back into the surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAn interior cleaner for every surface — how the CleanStar's universal formula works\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMost interior cleaners are tuned for one class of material: either plastic, or glass, or textiles. A true universal cleaner has to work on wildly different surfaces — from smooth, water-repellent glass and piano-black panels through porous textiles and upholstery to delicate microfibre materials like Alcantara. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CleanStar EcoCert\u003c\/strong\u003e pulls that off with a mild, pH-neutral formula that lifts dirt without swelling, bleaching or leaving residue behind.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe basic idea: the cleaner breaks the bond between dirt molecules and the surface, so you lift the loosened dirt off with the microfibre cloth instead of rubbing it deeper in. On absorbent materials like fabric or Alcantara, the streak-free drying formula stops water rings — a common problem with cleaners that carry too much surfactant and leave white rings or marks as they dry. On non-absorbent surfaces like glass or high-gloss plastic, the leftover moisture flashes off cleanly, so you get streak-free results even without a heavy second wipe.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe ECOCERT certification isn't only about the green side — it's also an indirect signal about the formula itself: certified surfactants and ingredients have to meet set biodegradability and compatibility standards, which by the same token means the harshest or hardest-to-break-down chemicals are ruled out. That lowers the risk of unwanted reactions on sensitive materials — which helps explain why you can use the cleaner on so many different surfaces without specific compatibility checks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAn interior cleaner for touchscreens and piano black — what sets this one apart\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSensitive areas like infotainment touchscreens, high-gloss piano-black trim and matte-lacquer surfaces call for extra care. Harsh cleaners can leave micro-damage on these: touchscreens lose their oleophobic protective layer and get harder to operate, piano black shows fine wipe marks or hazing, and matte surfaces pick up unwanted glossy spots where you rub. The CleanStar is explicitly cleared for these surfaces — the formula is mild enough that it doesn't attack protective layers or change the character of the surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWith touchscreens and piano black, the application technique matters as much as the product: little moisture on the cloth, minimal pressure, no circular rubbing — straight wipes parallel to the surface instead. On piano black, go for a single pass with a soft microfibre cloth, followed by a dry buffing or glass-polishing cloth. On mirror-like touchscreen displays the result comes out streak-free, as long as the cloth itself is clean and free of coarse particles — a grubby or linty cloth is the most common cause of scratches on displays and high-gloss areas, not the cleaning product.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe CleanStar is especially handy for modern cars, where touchscreens on the dashboard sit alongside plastic trim, leather panels or aluminium inlays. Instead of keeping several products within reach and swapping every time the material changes, you work the whole cockpit with a single cloth and one bottle — that saves time and cuts out the classic mistake of putting the wrong product on the wrong surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAn interior cleaner for Alcantara, leather and plastic — where it earns its keep\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA modern cabin is a mix of materials: dashboard and door cards in hard plastic or soft-touch lacquer, seats in fabric, leather or Alcantara, headliner in textile, centre console in piano black or aluminium look. Add in rubber seals, carpet, steering wheel and gear knob — every material has its own surface and its own sensitivity. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CleanStar EcoCert\u003c\/strong\u003e covers all of it, so you can run a full interior pass without switching products.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn leather, the cleaner pulls off surface dirt, greasy build-up and light stains without stripping the natural moisture out of the surface. That said: cleaning is no substitute for leather care. After cleaning with the CleanStar it makes sense to follow up with a \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-leathercleaner-lederreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE LeatherCleaner\u003c\/a\u003e or a leather conditioner, to put moisture back and keep the leather supple over the long run. Clean leather hard and then skip the care, and over time you're risking it drying out and cracking.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn Alcantara, the cleaner lifts grease spots, light everyday grime and odour particles without damaging or matting down the signature velour pile. The key when working Alcantara: always use little moisture and wipe in one even direction (following the pile), never rub in circles. After cleaning let it dry briefly, then brush the pile back up if needed with a dry, soft cloth or a soft brush to restore the texture. For deeper grime or stains that don't fully lift on the first pass, a second go or a dedicated upholstery stain remover may be needed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn hard plastics, rubber surfaces and carpets the cleaner shows its strongest side: here you can lay it on with a bit more pressure and a bit more moisture, with no risk to the surface. On heavily soiled carpets or floor mats it pays to let the cleaner dwell for a moment (30–60 seconds) before you go in with the cloth — that gives it time to loosen the dirt before you lift it off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eComparison: CleanStar EcoCert vs. other interior cleaners\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNext to specialised products the CleanStar has one clear edge: if you want to fully clean a car's interior, you don't need a big line-up — you just need one bottle. That makes it especially appealing for end customers who care for their car themselves, without any specific detailing background. Against the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-autoinnenreiniger-innenraumreiniger\"\u003eSONAX XTREME interior cleaner\u003c\/a\u003e, the CleanStar scores with its ECOCERT certification and its explicit clearance for piano black and touchscreens. The XTREME interior cleaner leans more towards stubborn everyday grime with no material limits, where how gentle the cleaner is matters less.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you work in a body shop or pro detailing setting and need bigger volumes, the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-cleanstar-ecocert-innenraumreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE CleanStar EcoCert\u003c\/a\u003e is the more economical route — identical formula, available in 5, 25 and 200-litre containers that decant straight through a Sprayboy. For cars with really high-end interiors — silk leather, exotic wood inlays, carbon trim or special hard lacquers — the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-sensitivesurface-detailer-innenraumreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE SensitiveSurface Detailer\u003c\/a\u003e offers an even milder formula built specifically for highly sensitive surfaces, where even a mild universal cleaner is a calculated risk.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBottom line on the comparison: the CleanStar EcoCert isn't a specialist, it's a dependable all-rounder. If you want the best possible result on every single material class, reach for the specialised products. If you want to clean a whole interior efficiently while risking nothing, the CleanStar has you covered.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy the SONAX CleanStar — who is the EcoCert interior cleaner for?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CleanStar EcoCert\u003c\/strong\u003e in the 750 ml spray bottle is the right pick for anyone who wants to fully clean their car's cabin with one product — no compromises on delicate materials, no cutting corners on the result. It's a particularly good fit for cars with mixed interiors (leather + Alcantara + plastic + touchscreen), for owners of high-end cars who don't want to take any chances cleaning piano black or displays, and for anyone who values ecologically certified ingredients in their cleaning products.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 750 ml bottle lasts for plenty of cleaning passes in everyday use — it's ready to use, goes on straight from the bottle and needs no dilution. For regular detailers or professional outfits the CleanStar in the PROFILINE canister is the more economical option. As a companion accessory we'd recommend a soft, lint-free microfibre cloth with plenty of pile — keep rough or worn cloths away to avoid scratches on delicate high-gloss areas. If you want to condition the leather surfaces after the interior clean, the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-leathercleaner-lederreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE LeatherCleaner\u003c\/a\u003e is the ideal next step for a complete interior care routine.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"750ml","offer_id":49160880062799,"sku":"D1-SNX-0253400","price":8.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-cleanstar-ecocert-innenraumreiniger_750ml.png?v=1721580255"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-lederpflegemilch-matteffect-lederpflege","title":"XTREME LederPflegeMilch \"Matteffect\"","description":"\u003ch2\u003eClean and condition your leather to a natural matt finish with the SONAX XTREME LederPflegeMilch \"Matteffect\"\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat makes the XTREME LederPflegeMilch \"Matteffect\" different? The silicone-free leather milk from SONAX cleans and conditions real, synthetic and vegan leather in one pass — carnauba wax keeps the moisture where it belongs, and the finish stays subtly matt instead of glossy.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHigh-gloss, freshly polished leather looks out of place in a modern cabin. If you like leather that still reads as leather — natural grain, honest look, no sticky shine film — most conventional conditioners will let you down. That is exactly who the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME LederPflegeMilch \"Matteffect\"\u003c\/strong\u003e was built for: a silicone-free leather conditioner with carnauba wax that cleans, feeds and seals in a single pass, finishing soft and matt. What you get is not high-gloss plastic leather, it is a cabin that looks cared for and natural — the way a seat should look the day the car is handed over. The milk texture spreads evenly, soaks in properly and leaves neither an oily film nor tacky residue in the stitching or on the trim. On light, textured or grained hides it is a particularly good match: the Matteffect brings the grain out instead of burying it under a layer of shine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eA natural matt finish, no high-gloss.\u003c\/strong\u003e You end up with a subtle, silky-matt surface — the closest thing to how the leather left the factory. On light or textured hides that is a clear win: no mirror shine covering the grain and pulling dust straight back in. On modern cars that come with matt leather from the line, a Matteffect conditioner is simply the logical pick.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSilicone-free, with carnauba wax for care that lasts.\u003c\/strong\u003e Silicone lays a sealing film over the leather but never gets into the fibre structure, and over time it can dry the material out. The silicone-free formula with carnauba wax works the other way round: it feeds moisture into the leather from within, keeps the fibres supple and builds lasting protection — without the surface compromise silicone-based products bring with them.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOne product for real, synthetic and vegan leather.\u003c\/strong\u003e Modern cars rarely stick to one material: real leather on the driver seat, synthetic on the rear bench, leatherette on the door cards. The LederPflegeMilch works on every smooth leather type — real, synthetic and vegan — which makes it the least fussy tool for the whole leather cabin, out of one bottle.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Lay the milk down on a slightly damp microfibre rather than spraying it straight onto the leather. You control the dose far better that way, and the product spreads evenly — into the stitching and the fine grain too. Work it in, let it flash off for a moment, then buff lightly with a second, dry towel. That keeps residue out of the seat seams and brings the matt finish up clean and even.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCarnauba wax and no silicone — what makes this formula tick\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eNot every leather conditioner is the same, and the formula is where it shows. Plenty of cheap conditioners lean on silicone as the main carrier: they seem to soak in fast, give instant shine and feel nice under the hand. The catch is that silicone never really gets into the leather structure — it lays a closed film on top. Over time that film stops the leather breathing and, ironically, speeds up the drying-out: the hide goes brittle, cracks and ages faster than it would with no treatment at all. This milk is deliberately silicone-free and runs carnauba wax as the key ingredient instead. Carnauba — the same wax detailers know from paint protection — binds moisture into the leather matrix, keeps the fibres supple and at the same time builds a real barrier against dirt and UV.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhat does that mean day-to-day? The leather stays soft, supple and feels like leather — not hard the way a neglected hide goes, and not greasy the way an over-siliconed one feels. The milk texture is thinner than a foam or a cream on purpose: you can dose it finely, it soaks in faster and needs less dwell time. If you do not have a whole afternoon to spend on the interior, that is a real advantage — work it in, buff, done. And the conditioning lasts far longer than a simple cleaner ever would. Top it up every six to eight weeks and the leather stays in good shape permanently, with none of the premature ageing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne thing people underrate when they buy a conditioner: what it does to the stitching. A lot of silicone-based products settle in the seams and the seat creases and leave a visible residue there that spoils the whole look. The water-based, silicone-free formula soaks into the leather surface without sitting on the stitching or in the recesses — the result reads clean and even, even on full-leather seats with elaborate quilting. That makes it a good match for cars with sports interiors or fancy leather trim work. If you care about contrast stitching or decorative colour accents, the clean, residue-free result is what you will notice most — the cabin does not just look better afterwards, it looks properly detailed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the leather milk properly — the workflow for a cabin that stays sharp\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eGood results start on a clean surface: get the heavy soiling and the stains off before you condition, so the milk works on clean leather and you are not grinding grit into the hide. The milk is not a deep cleaner for heavily soiled leather — for ingrained dirt or stubborn stains there are dedicated cleaning products. As a conditioner after the cleaning step, though, it is ideal: it seals the cleaned surface, protects it against fresh soiling and gives the material its natural elasticity back.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe application itself is straightforward: product onto an applicator or towel, spread it evenly over the leather, let it soak in briefly and then buff it off with a clean, dry towel. On grained or textured leather an applicator sponge helps, because it works the product into the texture and keeps the result even across the whole seat. Do not park the car in strong sun straight afterwards — give it a few hours so the conditioning agents are fully taken up by the fibres. What you skip: Alcantara and suede leather are not made for conditioning milks, they need textile products. Perforated leather can be treated, but go easy on the dose so nothing ends up sitting permanently in the holes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA question that comes up a lot: does it work on older, very dry leather? Yes — with a bit of patience. On badly dried-out hide it pays to repeat the pass two or three times in short succession, so the fibres take the moisture up step by step. One heavy coat does less than several thin ones that have each fully soaked in. If you have neglected your leather for a long time, give it one intensive first treatment and then top it up at regular intervals — the condition of the leather stabilises quickly and stays that way. Important: clean the leather thoroughly before every conditioning pass. Dirt worked in under the conditioner damages the surface long-term and stops the formula doing its job. A simple pH-neutral leather cleaner before you condition makes the difference in the end result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eResults and where the milk plays to its strengths\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe most visible result is the even, velvety matt look of the treated leather. Surfaces that were dull, dry or slightly cracked before come up fresh and cared for — without the artificial sheen a lot of other products leave behind. On dark leather that has faded from sun and heavy use, the colour-refreshing effect is easy to see: the hide reads richer and deeper. On light leather — white, beige or pale grey — the silicone-free recipe really earns its keep, because it prevents the typical yellowing and clouding that silicone-based conditioners can cause on pale surfaces. The leather also feels noticeably softer and nicer afterwards — a difference passengers pick up the second they get in. It gives without squeaking and it does not heat up as harshly in summer, both signs that the structure is well supplied with moisture and has kept its natural flex.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eInside the car it goes on every smooth leather surface: driver and passenger seats, rear bench, door cards, armrests, centre console covers and the steering wheel — as long as the wheel is smooth leather and not perforated or textured material with a grip requirement. Outside the car the milk works just as well on leather upholstery, leather bags or any other leather piece you want to treat with the same care. The gentle formula is soft enough for the delicate colour coatings you find in some designer interiors. The long game is a leather cabin that holds its value: leather that gets conditioned regularly does not crack deeply, does not lose colour and stays soft and supple for years — where a neglected leather interior runs into expensive repairs or a full restoration after only a few seasons.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eMatteffect vs. high-gloss — and which products pair up\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eMatt or gloss is not a question of quality, it is a question of the cabin and of what you like. Older cars with classic full-leather trim often look more stylish with a medium to subtle shine — the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-xtreme-lederpflegeschaum-lederpflege\"\u003eXTREME LederPflegeSchaum\u003c\/a\u003e is a good call there: it also runs carnauba and beeswax, gives a bit more gloss and impregnates more heavily. For modern cars with matt leather, sports trim or light hides, the Matteffect approach clearly wins — no bolted-on sheen making the leather look fake and falsifying the factory look.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you need heavy-duty protection for leather that takes a beating — fleets, taxis and rentals, cars with drivers changing all the time — take a look at the PROFILINE line. The \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-leatherprotection-lederpflege\"\u003ePROFILINE LeatherProtection\u003c\/a\u003e is a professional leather sealant with very high protection and a long service life, available in a one-litre bottle for professional use. For regular foam conditioning in a professional setting there is also the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-leather-care-foam-lederpflege\"\u003ePROFILINE LeatherCareFoam\u003c\/a\u003e, an aerosol foam that is easy to spread across big surfaces. That puts the milk exactly where it belongs: a premium everyday conditioner for the demanding home user and detailer who wants a natural look, silicone-free ingredients and conditioning that actually conditions.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying advice — who the SONAX XTREME LederPflegeMilch \"Matteffect\" is for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME LederPflegeMilch \"Matteffect\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is the first pick for anyone with leather in the car who wants to keep it in good shape long-term — without producing an artificial high-gloss. It suits owners of modern cars with matt or textured leather especially well: the people who are usually disappointed by conventional conditioners because those leave an unnatural shine behind. It is very good on light leather too — the silicone-free recipe prevents the typical yellowing and clouding some conditioners cause on pale materials.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe 500 ml bottle covers a lot of passes for a home user, so the value is good. Pair it with a matching leather cleaner before you condition and you have a complete cycle that protects the leather long-term and keeps the cabin looking new. If your interior mixes several leather types, having one product that feeds all of them is simply practical. A well-kept leather cabin does not just make the drive nicer, it holds the value of the car — and the effort is small: one quick pass every six to eight weeks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBottom line: if you drive a modern car with matt leather, sit in a cabin with several leather types, or just do not want a high-gloss product anywhere near your hide, the LederPflegeMilch \"Matteffect\" is a very good call. A silicone-free formula, carnauba wax, a natural matt finish and universal leather compatibility rarely come together at this price — and with consistent, regular use the result is impressive. A product that does what the name says: effective conditioning, a subtle look, long-term protection. And if you want to look after the whole car, you will find everything for a complete inside-and-out routine in our range — from leather care to plastic detailers and sealants for every requirement.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":49160880095567,"sku":"D1-SNX-02542410","price":16.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-xtreme-lederpflegemilch-matteffect-lederpflege_500ml.png?v=1721574389"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-kunststoffdetailer-innen-aussen-kunststoffpflege","title":"XTREME Plastic Detailer \"Interior+Exterior\" Plastic Care","description":"\u003ch2\u003eClean, care for and revive plastic in one step with the SONAX XTREME Plastic Detailer\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat makes the XTREME Plastic Detailer special? This 4-in-1 care product for all interior and exterior plastic parts cleans, cares, protects and regenerates in one pass, and brings faded surfaces back to life with a subtle, natural look.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnyone who has tried to bring a greying dashboard or a dull exterior trim strip back to life with a normal all-purpose cleaner knows the score: cleaning alone isn't enough. Plastic ages, loses its colour and, without regular care, turns brittle and shabby. That's exactly where the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Plastic Detailer\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in — an all-in-one product that rolls four care steps into a single product: clean, care, protect and regenerate. It works on all smooth plastic surfaces inside and out, and leaves a natural matte finish without that typical glossy-plastic effect. The difference from a plain plastic cleaner is obvious straight after the first go: the surface you treated doesn't just look clean, it looks fresh — as if the plastic were new.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe 4-in-1 function saves time and effort.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Plastic Detailer replaces four separate products in one pass. Instead of using cleaner, conditioner, protectant and reviver one by one, a single product handles the whole workflow — which saves time and space in your detailing kit. On interior cleans especially, where you have to work through lots of different surfaces in a short window, this pays off immediately.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eIntense colour revival for faded surfaces.\u003c\/strong\u003e Plastic tends to grey out under UV and from built-up dirt. The formula regenerates the surface from within and brings the original colour back to life — you can see it right after you apply it, and the effect holds for several weeks. On black exterior trim or dark interior panels in particular, the result is striking.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eA subtle, natural sheen instead of a high-gloss effect.\u003c\/strong\u003e A lot of plastic dressings leave a greasy, shiny film that looks unrealistic, attracts dust and throws off annoying reflections on glass or instrument lighting. This Detailer is deliberately built for a subtle, natural-matte sheen — the result looks like the plastic is new, not like it's been polished or waxed.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e For the cockpit, we'd put the product onto a soft microfibre cloth and work the vents, panel gaps and textured surfaces with circular motions — that way the plastic detailer spreads evenly and sinks into the surface. On exterior plastics like bumpers or trim strips you can also spray the product straight onto the surface and then spread it out evenly. One thing to watch: always keep it off glass, displays, the steering wheel, the pedals and any fabric.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003e4-in-1 technology — how cleaning and care work together in the plastic detailer\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA lot of car owners underestimate what happens to plastic surfaces over time. Embedded dust, UV, temperature swings and cleaning-product residue all take their toll on the material — the plastic greys out, loses its flex and ends up looking weathered. A quick wipe just doesn't cut it any more; the surface needs active regeneration. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Plastic Detailer\u003c\/strong\u003e works on several levels at once: first, the cleaning formula gently lifts surface dirt and deposits without attacking the plastic matrix. Second, the surface gets fed with caring agents that keep the material supple and guard it against further drying out. Third, a protective layer settles over the treated area to shield it from UV, moisture and environmental grime. And fourth, the formula visibly regenerates the plastic's colour — lifting greyed-out black exterior trim is one of the most striking effects detailers report after the very first go.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhat sets this approach apart from plain cleaners or protect-only sprays: there's no intermediate step, no waiting time between cleaning and care, no risk of overloading the surface with too many different chemicals. It all happens in one pass — and the result is consistent. The product's texture is thin enough for quick, even spreading, yet present enough to genuinely sink into the surface and work there. That's the real difference between a true detailer and a plain spray product that only brightens things up visually without actually feeding the surface. Even on plastic parts already showing slight dulling or fine surface scratches, regular use pays off: the caring components mask those marks and noticeably slow down the material's ageing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA question that comes up a lot is whether an all-rounder detailer like this can be just as effective as products built specifically for interior or exterior use. The answer is nuanced: for intensive restoration of badly weathered exterior plastics, or for heavy-duty pro use, there are more optimised specialist solutions. But for daily or weekly care, for the regular touch-up between the main care sessions, and for anyone who doesn't fancy a whole arsenal of single products, the all-purpose formula is a smart call. It makes getting into a structured care routine easy and, used consistently, delivers very good results over the long run — both inside the car and out. For a lot of people that's the clincher: instead of working through a dozen products with different application rules, one reach into the care drawer is enough to bring the whole car up to a professional standard.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eDoing interior plastic care right — a workflow for the cockpit and door panels\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eInterior plastics put particular demands on care products: they have to clean well enough, but they mustn't leave an oily surface that glares in the sun, reflects on displays or makes the steering wheel slippery. The formula is built specifically for that balancing act. The workflow is simple: first vacuum the interior thoroughly and clear out the coarse dirt, then spray the product onto a clean microfibre cloth — never straight onto displays or into vents — and wipe the plastic surfaces down evenly. The product sinks in fast and leaves no streaks or residue.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor textured dashboards or grained door panels, an applicator sponge works well, since it works the product evenly into the texture. On black high-gloss elements like piano-lacquer trim, the subtle sheen really shows its strength: no greasy shimmer, just a fresh, clean look. What to deliberately leave out: the steering wheel and pedals are absolutely off-limits for safety reasons — care products there can reduce grip and lead to dangerous situations. The same goes for displays and glass surfaces, which can get blotchy with plastic-care products. Fabric and Alcantara don't react well to plastic dressings either — there are purpose-built specialist products for upholstery. Keep the interior clean regularly — ideally every four to six weeks — and you'll keep the cockpit fresh for good and stop dirt particles baking into porous plastic structures. A treated dashboard picks up dust and fingerprints far less than an untreated one, which makes the next clean noticeably easier.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eReviving exterior plastics — where to use it and the results you'll see\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eExterior plastics like bumpers, side skirts, trim strips and mirror housings are the first parts on a car to age visibly. Sun exposure, dirt and wash cycles strip colour depth and protection from the surface over time. What once looked deep black turns grey and dull after a few years — a state that drags down the whole car's appearance, even when the paint and mechanicals are still in good shape. This is where the Plastic Detailer plays one of its biggest cards: the intense colour revival works visibly on oxidised, faded exterior trim and brings back the original black — or any other factory colour. On matte or unstructured exterior plastics you can spray the product straight on and then work it in with a clean microfibre cloth. Just wipe off the excess — there are no stains or residue on paint or glass as long as you work cleanly. Textured exterior plastics, the kind you typically find on bumpers or side skirts, are easier to reach with an applicator sponge or a soft brush: that way the product sinks into the recessed textures too and gives an even result across the whole area.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWorth understanding: this isn't a sealant in the classic sense. It doesn't lay down a multi-month chemical protective film like a dedicated exterior plastic protectant. For the regular touch-up between care intervals — say after a wash or before spring — it's exactly the right thing, though: quick to apply, effective in the result and no big effort. The protection against dirt sticking is a welcome side effect: treated exterior plastics pick up dirt less easily, which stretches out the time to the next clean and keeps the surface fresh for longer. For cars that sit outside a lot or go through the wash regularly, a monthly touch-up with the Detailer makes a clearly visible difference across the whole year. Another thing a lot of people value: the product works well in autumn and winter too, when road salt, dirty water and temperature swings put exterior plastics under particular strain. Treating them regularly in that season builds a protective barrier against dirt particles working their way in and lowers the risk of micro-cracks that frost and cold can cause.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe Plastic Detailer compared — when which product is the better call\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX range offers several products for plastic care that differ clearly in their aim and depth. The XTREME Plastic Detailer is the all-rounder for inside and out — universally usable, quick to apply and optimised for regular everyday use. If, on the other hand, you only want to care for exterior plastics and protect them for the long haul, the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-xtreme-kunststoffgel-aussen-kunststoffpflege\"\u003eXTREME Plastic Gel \"Exterior\"\u003c\/a\u003e is the better bet: the gel is a more intensive formula made specifically for UV-exposed exterior plastics, lays down a thicker protective layer and is especially suited to heavily oxidised or long-neglected parts, where a one-off intensive treatment makes more sense than the regular light touch-up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor professional use — say in car reconditioning, used-car dealing or fast-rotating company fleets — the PROFILINE line offers two specialised alternatives. The \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-plasticcare-kunststoffpflege\"\u003ePROFILINE PlasticCare\u003c\/a\u003e is a water-based pro plastic care for regular maintenance in a professional setting, with high yield even in the large container. A step more specialised again is the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-plastic-protectant-exterior-kunststoffpflege\"\u003ePROFILINE PlasticProtectant \"Exterior\"\u003c\/a\u003e — explicitly built for the exterior, it offers a particularly durable protective film against greying and UV damage, ideal for pros who want to keep cars in top shape long-term with minimal care effort. That positions the Plastic Detailer as the right tool for the ambitious home user and the detailer who needs one universal product for all smooth plastics in day-to-day use — without having to switch between different specialist formulas for inside and out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying advice — who is the SONAX Plastic Detailer worth it for?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe XTREME Plastic Detailer is the right product if you want a simple, universal plastic dressing that delivers visible results without much fuss. In everyday use especially — after the car wash, during the regular interior clean or for a seasonal touch-up — it's the ideal tool. If you drive a car with lots of dark interior plastic — typical for many mid-range and SUV models — you'll see the difference right after the first go: the cockpit looks fresher, the door panels aren't dull any more, and the exterior trim has its original colour back. The 500 ml bottle is good for plenty of applications for home users and offers very good value for money. For the best overall result, we'd pair it with a good microfibre: the product sinks in evenly that way, without leaving streaks or residue.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhat you shouldn't expect from it: a durable high-gloss protective film you apply once a year and then forget. For that demand you need a specialised exterior protectant. But as part of a monthly care plan, the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Plastic Detailer\u003c\/strong\u003e is a reliable, no-nonsense product that does its job dependably — no frills, with an immediately visible result and a price that doesn't give you a guilty conscience even with regular use. Especially for car owners who want to simplify their care routine and still get professional results, it's a clear recommendation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt's especially worth it for: new-car owners who want to protect their plastics from the start and keep that as-new quality for as long as possible; owners of older cars whose interior and exterior plastics have already aged visibly and need a regular touch-up; and detailers who want a quick, universal care product in the kit without having to carry a separate product for every surface. The 500 ml bottle with spray head makes application especially comfortable — no fiddly dosing, no spilling, no separate applicator strictly required. Keep on top of the care and you head off expensive damage and hold the car's value over the long run — and that's exactly what makes this Detailer one of the most effective and affordable options in the SONAX range. If you want to take the care one step further, the ideal move is to pair the product with a regular wash ritual: wash first, then freshen up the plastics — that keeps the car looked-after all round, and the effort stays manageable.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":49160880128335,"sku":"D1-SNX-2552410","price":12.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/Sonax-XTREME-KunststoffDetailer-Innen-Ausen-2.png?v=1721514330"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-ceramic-sprayversiegelung-spruehversiegelung","title":"XTREME Ceramic Spray Sealant Spray-On Sealant","description":"\u003ch2\u003eProtect your paint for the long haul and seal it to a mirror-deep gloss — with the SONAX XTREME Ceramic SprayVersiegelung\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX XTREME Ceramic SprayVersiegelung do? The spray sealant with Si-Carbon Technology lays a durable, hydrophobic ceramic layer over your paint that shrugs off dirt, bugs and road salt and brings out a mirror-deep gloss — protection for up to 4 months, no polishing needed.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSealing a car doesn't have to be complicated. If you think lasting paint protection only comes from multi-stage ceramic coatings, polishing machines and hours of prep, you haven't laid down the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic SprayVersiegelung\u003c\/strong\u003e yet. This one brings real ceramic protection with Si-Carbon Technology straight out of a spray bottle — a job that's done in a few minutes, guards your paint against dirt, bugs and road salt for up to four months, and leaves a gloss that holds its own against freshly polished paint. No polishing, no warming up, no special kit — just spray, spread, done.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFour months of paint protection in one pass.\u003c\/strong\u003e Once it's on, the Si-Carbon Technology builds a tough, hydrophobic layer on the paint. That layer beads off water, dirt, bug residue and road salt, keeps grime from settling in and makes every wash after it easier — the muck grips less and rinses off quicker. This isn't a quick shine that fades by next week; it's working protection through four months of normal driving.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMirror-deep gloss without polishing.\u003c\/strong\u003e The formula deepens the paint colour and leaves a silky-smooth, mirror-bright surface once you've buffed it off. What usually takes a polish, the Ceramic SprayVersiegelung pulls off through the protective layer itself: scratches, micro-marring and dull patches get optically bridged, so the paint reads deeper and more brilliant. On paint that's already in good shape, that's the kind of result you'd otherwise only get after a proper machine polish.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eTopping up ceramic coatings.\u003c\/strong\u003e This isn't just a standalone protection system — it's the ideal maintenance product for cars that are already ceramic-coated. If you've had your car treated with a pro ceramic coating, the spray sealant lets you refresh the protection every four months, fire the beading back up and stretch the life of the base coat well past where it'd usually fade. That's a lot cheaper than a full re-detail — and gets you nearly the same result.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from day to day:\u003c\/strong\u003e You can lay the sealant down on slightly damp paint too — and that's a real day-to-day win. If you've washed the car and can't let it dry off fully, pull the excess water off and get going with the sealant right away. The key bit: only ever work one connected section at a time — the whole bonnet in one go, one side in one go — and wipe any residue straight off with a second, dry microfibre. Never let the sealant flash off and dry on, and never work on hot paint or in direct sun.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSi-Carbon Technology — how the ceramic sealant works in the paint\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe word \"ceramic\" gets thrown around a lot in the detailing market, but what's actually going on under the hood with the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic SprayVersiegelung\u003c\/strong\u003e? The formula is built on SONAX's Si-Carbon Technology — a mix of silicon-organic compounds and carbon structures that together build a dense, repellent layer on the paint surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eGlossy clearcoat isn't a closed surface under the microscope. It's a clearcoat with fine unevenness, micro-pores and a crystalline structure that soaks up water, oils and dirt particles to varying degrees. Unsealed paint pulls dirt particles down into those micro-pores, which dulls the surface over time and invites stains, water spots and baked-on residue. That's also why two identical cars of the same age with different care histories can look so different: sealed paint still shows depth and brilliance after five years, while the unsealed one looks flat and washed out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Si-Carbon compounds in the Ceramic SprayVersiegelung close off those micro-pores. After you apply it, the compounds react with the paint surface and form a thin but very dense protective layer that's hydrophobic — water-repellent. On that layer, water no longer spreads into flat, wetting sheets; it beads off in small, round droplets. At higher speeds the airflow carries them off on their own, taking dirt particles along for the ride — the so-called lotus effect or beading effect that gives you that classic, round water-beading look.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother side of the formula is the optical hit. The Si-Carbon layer doesn't just fill micro-pores, it also improves the paint's optical depth. Light refracts more evenly across a uniformly sealed surface than an unsealed one — the result is a richer, darker shade and a mirror gloss that clearly sets it apart from unsealed paint. That's why the product gets used not only as protection but as a gloss treatment too — it lifts the look of the paint even when protection isn't the main reason you reached for it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eApplying the spray sealant the right way — step by step\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eApplication is easier than with most other paint protection products, because the paint doesn't need to dry off fully after the wash. The car has to be clean — knock off any dirt, tar or tree sap first — but slightly damp paint is no problem. That makes the sealant usable straight after a wash, with no long waiting around.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eShake the bottle hard before every use. The high-grade ingredients can separate a little in storage — that's no quality issue, it's a sign of how concentrated the actives are. SONAX is explicit that phase separation is normal and shakes out completely. After shaking, twist the spray nozzle open and spray the product straight onto a lint-free microfibre — not onto the paint, since that lays down too thick a coat that's hard to spread evenly and can leave residue as it flashes off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSpread it thin across one connected section. By that we mean: the whole bonnet, the whole roof, one whole side of the car — not single 30 cm patches with a pause in between. The sealant should dry off evenly, with no borders between the bits you've already done and the fresh ones. Once it's spread, go over it straight away with a second, dry microfibre and pick up all the residue. If the surface isn't evenly glossy after the wipe-down — streaky or patchy — just redo that area.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTwo things you really want to avoid: hot paint surfaces and direct sun. In the heat the sealant flashes off too fast and leaves edges that are a pain to fully remove. The sweet spot is shade or an indoor bay at normal temperatures. In winter frost, leave the product on the shelf — below 5 degrees Celsius the formula no longer reacts reliably and the protective layer won't form properly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFour months of protection and mirror gloss — what the sealant does day to day\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe biggest day-to-day win with this spray sealant is the easy-to-clean effect. On sealed paint, dirt particles, bug residue and road dust grip less — the hydrophobic layer keeps them from sinking deep into the paint. Which means: every wash after it is quicker, needs less mechanical pressure and so goes easier on the paint over the long run. Wash and seal your car regularly and you'll keep the paint in better shape over the years than someone who only washes when the dirt gets too obvious to ignore.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe beading on freshly sealed paint shows up the second you're done. Raindrops run off in little beads instead of spreading into a broad, vision-killing film on the glass or paint. From around 60–80 km\/h, water droplets on the bonnet all but vanish, because the airflow carries them off. That cuts down on the water spots and limescale that come from standing water — a real plus in areas with hard tap water.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe four-month service life it promises is realistic for a normal car with a weekly wash and average exposure to the weather. On cars parked outside every day, driven a lot on long runs or taking heavy bug hits, that can drop to two or three months. A reliable sign the seal is fading is the loss of beading: when water stops beading and just sits flat on the surface, it's time to go again. On an already clean car the top-up takes under 15 minutes. One tip for stretching the service life: if you run a sealing shampoo like XTREME Foam+Seal at every wash, you lay down a thin polymer layer each time, which extends the ceramic seal underneath and lets you wash more often without losing protection. Those are two complementary protection systems that reinforce each other instead of competing — an approach that's been standard in pro detailing for years.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne underrated angle is road-salt protection. Road salt is one of the most aggressive attacks on car paint in winter. The crystals lodge in unsealed surfaces and don't always rinse out fully even at the next wash. On sealed paint the salt grips less and mostly washes off on first contact with water. So running the spray sealant before and through the winter season is a cheap bit of prevention against salt damage that can get expensive down the line.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe spray sealant compared — XTREME Ceramic QuickDetailer and PROFILINE CeramicCoating CC One\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThere are two products in the SONAX range that come up most often against the XTREME Ceramic SprayVersiegelung: the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-quickdetailer-quick-detailer\"\u003eXTREME Ceramic QuickDetailer\u003c\/a\u003e and the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-one-paint-keramikversiegelung\"\u003ePROFILINE CeramicCoating CC One (Paint)\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe XTREME Ceramic QuickDetailer is a care detailer for in between — it pulls fingerprints, light dust and smears off dry paint and lays down a thin, hydrophobic layer as it goes. Its service life is shorter than the spray sealant's, and it's not meant as a base seal but as a topper or interim care. The ideal combo is: spray sealant as the base protection every four months, QuickDetailer every two to four weeks as a refresher and gloss-booster. That combo keeps the beading constant and stretches the overall service life of the protection system right out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe PROFILINE CeramicCoating CC One (Paint) is a full-blown ceramic coating with up to 12 months of service life. It needs serious prep — a full paint polish, degreasing with isopropanol, frost-free conditions when you apply it — and in return it gives you far higher durability, chemical resistance and hardness. For cars that get detailed professionally and need to stay protected long-term without regular top-ups, CC One is the stronger pick. The XTREME Ceramic SprayVersiegelung, by contrast, is the everyday product: cheaper, quicker, simpler — and plenty for the big majority of owners who want reliable paint protection without a pro detailing setup.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA straight comparison with regular XTREME Hardwax or polymer sealants without a ceramic component is worth a look too. Wax-based sealants usually give a softer, warmer look but less resistance to bug residue, dirt and mechanical wear. Classic hard waxes last anywhere from four to eight weeks depending on the product — the ceramic spray sealant reliably hits four months. The Ceramic SprayVersiegelung goes for a harder, slicker surface that gives dirt less to cling to. If you care about maximum cleaning efficiency and long intervals, the ceramic formula serves you better. If you'd rather have the classic, warm look of carnauba wax and don't mind topping up more often, the SONAX range has products built for that taste.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying a spray sealant — who the SONAX XTREME Ceramic SprayVersiegelung is for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic SprayVersiegelung\u003c\/strong\u003e is aimed at owners who want real ceramic protection with minimal fuss. For one, that's everyday drivers who wash their car regularly but don't have the time or budget for a pro ceramic coating. For another, detailing enthusiasts who've already sealed a car with a pro ceramic coating and want to stretch the base coat's life through regular top-ups.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt's an especially good shout for cars that sit outside all year. Sun, rain, dust, bird muck and road salt chip away at the paint non-stop. A ceramic layer refreshed every four months is the cheapest and most effective guard against all that — cheaper than any correction polish you'd need after a few years with no protection. It pays off most over time on dark paint, where every bit of damage shows up straight away, and on metallic finishes, which are touchy about water spots and limescale.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWorth knowing: the product is for high-gloss paint only. Matte paint, matte wraps or satin finishes must not be treated with it — the formula creates a gloss effect that changes matte surfaces for good. For matte paint, reach for a dedicated matte-care product.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs a way into ceramic sealing, it's ideal: it shows results you can see right away, needs no prior know-how and delivers real, measurable protection. Once you've built the system — base seal every four months, \u003ca href=\"\/en\/sonax-xtreme-foam-seal-schaumversiegelung-autoshampoo-versiegelung\"\u003eXTREME Foam+Seal\u003c\/a\u003e at every wash — you keep the paint protection at a level that used to be the preserve of pro detailing. With a 750 ml bottle that lasts a normal car through plenty of applications, the value is hard to beat — real ceramic protection without the price and effort of a pro coating.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"750ml","offer_id":49160880193871,"sku":"D1-SNX-02574000","price":15.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/Sonax-XTREME-Ceramic-SprayVersiegelung-Spruhversie-0.png?v=1721514342"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-ceramic-activeshampoo-autoshampoo","title":"XTREME Ceramic Active-Shampoo Car Shampoo","description":"\u003ch2\u003eEvery wash is a ceramic-protection upgrade — SONAX XTREME Ceramic ActiveShampoo\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat can a car shampoo with Si-Carbon technology actually do? The Ceramic shampoo from SONAX's XTREME line lays down silicon-dioxide particles on the paint with every hand wash, building a water- and dirt-repelling ceramic protection layer as it goes — cleaning and protection in a single step.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you wash your car by hand regularly, you spend a lot of time at the bucket — and you get no added protection out of it when you reach for an ordinary shampoo. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic ActiveShampoo\u003c\/strong\u003e changes that equation: the 500 ml concentrate uses Si-Carbon technology to actively build ceramic protection on paint, glass, plastic and chrome while you wash. Every wash reinforces the protective film instead of just maintaining it or stripping it back. That's the conceptual difference from classic shampoos, which neither build up a coating nor actively top up an existing one.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCleaning and ceramic protection in one step.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Ceramic ActiveShampoo pairs strong cleaning power with active protection build-up: while the foam pulls road grime, bug splatter and brake dust off the surface, Si-Carbon particles settle onto it. The result once it dries: a freshly washed car that beads harder than it did before the wash. No separate sealing step needed.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWorks with existing ceramic coatings and paint sealants.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Ceramic ActiveShampoo is formulated so it won't attack or strip existing hard waxes, polymer sealants or ceramic coatings. Instead it tops them up: every wash lifts dirt and feeds the existing protection layer with fresh Si-Carbon particles. If you already run a coating, use this shampoo as a maintenance product that actively strengthens the coating between refreshes.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eGoes a long way thanks to the concentrated formula.\u003c\/strong\u003e You dose 50 ml into 10 litres of warm water — so the 500 ml bottle gives you about 10 full hand washes for a normal car. Compared with conventional shampoos at a similar dilution, the Ceramic ActiveShampoo delivers far more for the same amount: each of those 10 washes doubles as a protection top-up that an ordinary shampoo skips entirely.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e The Ceramic ActiveShampoo does its best protection work on clean, dry paint. Always rinse heavy grime off cold before the wash — that stops loose grit from scratching the paint while you work. For maximum ceramic build-up after the wash, dry the car with an absorbent microfibre drying towel rather than letting it sheet off: drying works the Si-Carbon particles more evenly into the surface. If you want to push it even further, finish the wash with a spritz of \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-quickdetailer-quick-detailer\"\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic QuickDetailer\u003c\/a\u003e on the wet paint before it dries — that doubles the protective film for no extra effort.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSi-Carbon technology — how the Ceramic ActiveShampoo builds ceramic protection with every wash\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSi-Carbon technology is the backbone of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic ActiveShampoo\u003c\/strong\u003e. The term describes a formula built on silicon-dioxide particles (SiO₂) — the same base material used in professional ceramic coatings. The difference from a classic coating lies in the size and form of the particles: professional coatings use reactive SiO₂ compounds that bond chemically with the paint and form a permanently hard protection layer. The Ceramic ActiveShampoo carries smaller Si-Carbon particles suspended in the shampoo emulsion; they physically settle on the surface during the wash and form a slick, hydrophobic protection layer as the water evaporates.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis deposited layer is less durable than a chemically bonded coating, but it delivers fresh protection with every wash. The system is cumulative: the more regularly you wash the car with the Ceramic ActiveShampoo, the more evenly and thickly the protective film builds. Three to five washes are usually enough to get a clearly improved lotus effect and stronger beading — comparable to a mild polymer sealant. With steady weekly washing over a few months you reach a stable protection level that lasts longer between washes than bare paint would.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHow the Ceramic ActiveShampoo gets on with different surfaces matters in practice. Si-Carbon technology is designed for paint-pH compatibility — the shampoo sits in the neutral to slightly alkaline range, which suits all common automotive paints. For coated surfaces it's crucial that the shampoo carries no aggressive surfactants that would strip a coating: the Ceramic ActiveShampoo is built exactly for that — gentle enough to preserve a coating, strong enough to lift road grime. On glass, the silicon-dioxide layer also feeds the lotus effect and helps water clear the windscreen faster in the rain.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne common misunderstanding about Si-Carbon technology: the Ceramic ActiveShampoo is no substitute for a professional ceramic coating. It can neither replicate nor replace the chemically bonded, long-term protection of a two-year coating. Its strength lies in a different concept: regular, no-fuss protection with every wash — no separate sealing step, no cure time, no special kit.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the Ceramic ActiveShampoo — dosing, foam and the right sequence\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eUsing the Ceramic ActiveShampoo right starts with the dose: 50 ml of concentrate to 10 litres of warm water. That mix gives you enough foam for a mid-sized car and enough Si-Carbon particles for an even protection build-up. Skimping on shampoo saves product, sure, but it also drops the concentration of active ceramic particles and with it the protection — under-dosing is the most common mistake people make with the Ceramic ActiveShampoo.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe recommended sequence: first pre-rinse the car with clean cold water to lift heavy dirt and sand grains. Then, with your mixed Ceramic ActiveShampoo and a wash mitt (lambswool or microfibre), work top to bottom — roof, windows, bonnet, sides, then sills and bumpers last. For heavily soiled areas like sills and wheel arches, keep a separate bucket of fresh shampoo solution so grit from the arches doesn't get dragged onto the paint (two-bucket method). After washing, rinse thoroughly with clean water until no shampoo is left.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDrying matters more with this product than with a classic shampoo: because the Si-Carbon particles stay behind on the surface as the water film evaporates, even drying is key to an even protective film. A quality microfibre drying towel with enough absorbency (at least 400 g\/m²) makes sure no water spots form that could disturb how the particles are spread. Never just let the car sheet off and air-dry after the wash if you want maximum protection — running water pulls the Si-Carbon particles into rivulets and spreads them unevenly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Ceramic ActiveShampoo is strictly for hand washing — not for machine washes or the pressure washer. The heavy foaming would cause trouble in automatic wash lines; on top of that, physical application by wash mitt is needed to rub the Si-Carbon particles across the surface and work them in properly. The brushes in a drive-through wash don't give you that — the even contact pressure of the mitt is what makes the protection build up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCeramic protection through washing — beading, durability and compatibility\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe most noticeable result after washing with the Ceramic ActiveShampoo is the changed beading. You feel the difference on bare paint after the very first wash: water beads and clears faster, the contact angles between the droplets and the paint grow, and the lotus effect is clearly stronger than after a wash with a non-protecting shampoo. Every further wash intensifies the effect until it reaches a stable plateau — typically after three to five washes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHow long the protective film lasts between washes depends heavily on conditions. In normal city use (garage or carport parking, average rain exposure) the built-up film holds for two to four weeks at a level well above bare paint. With hard mileage, motorway runs that throw up bugs and stone chips, or salt exposure in winter, the film weathers faster — which makes the regular wash, the one that builds and renews protection automatically, all the more important. In that sense the Ceramic ActiveShampoo is a system: not a one-off treatment but a routine product that earns its protection through regularity.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn glass — windscreen, side windows, tailgate — Si-Carbon technology shows a particularly handy side effect: at speeds from 60 km\/h water clears far faster, because the silicon-dioxide layer raises the contact angle between water and glass. Wash the car regularly with the Ceramic ActiveShampoo and you get better rain run-off on the glass too, with no separate glass sealant. The effect on glass is smaller than with a dedicated glass sealant, but for everyday drivers doing quick washes it's a welcome bonus.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eEspecially relevant for owners with existing coatings: the Ceramic ActiveShampoo won't attack hard waxes, polymer sealants or chemically bonded ceramic coatings. You can run it as a wash-maintenance shampoo on coated cars without a second thought. The Si-Carbon particles settle on the existing coating and boost its hydrophobicity between the regular refreshes. If you run a professional ceramic coating and keep it topped up, you can slot the Ceramic ActiveShampoo into the maintenance workflow as your everyday wash — no fear of compromising the pricier coating.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCeramic ActiveShampoo compared — vs. ordinary shampoo and vs. foam sealant\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSet against a classic shampoo with no protection components, the primary value of the Ceramic ActiveShampoo is clear: an ordinary shampoo cleans and rinses — nothing more. It builds no protection, keeps no protection, and can even knock it back a little when its surfactants temporarily change the paint's surface energy. The 500 ml Ceramic ActiveShampoo costs a bit more than a plain shampoo, but it delivers active protection at the same time. On a price-per-wash basis (about 10 washes from 500 ml) the extra cost per wash is small and the added value substantial.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAgainst the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-foam-seal-schaumversiegelung-autoshampoo-versiegelung\"\u003eSONAX XTREME Foam+Seal \"foam sealant\"\u003c\/a\u003e there are clear positioning differences: Foam+Seal is also a shampoo with a protection component, but it leans harder into the sealing side — it carries polymer waxes that build a thicker, more hydrophobic layer per application, though it also needs a cleaner surface for the foam to key to. The Ceramic ActiveShampoo aims its protection formula at the Si-Carbon particles and builds a finer film tuned for ceramic compatibility. If you run a coating: Ceramic ActiveShampoo. If you run no coating and want maximum sealing out of a shampoo: Foam+Seal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAgainst the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-richfoam-shampoo-autoshampoo\"\u003eSONAX XTREME Rich-Foam Shampoo\u003c\/a\u003e you get a different profile: the Rich-Foam Shampoo is all about foam volume and slickness as its primary traits — ideal for the two-bucket method and soft-wax paint care, with no active protection component. It cleans very thoroughly and suits sensitive paint especially, where leaving no residue after the rinse is what counts. The Ceramic ActiveShampoo has slightly more residue potential from the Si-Carbon particles, which are meant to stay on the surface by design — on very soft, sensitive paint or on cars you plan to polish straight after the wash, the Rich-Foam can be the better call.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying a car shampoo with ceramic protection — who the Ceramic ActiveShampoo is right for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic ActiveShampoo\u003c\/strong\u003e is the ideal pick for owners who wash by hand regularly and want to build protection along the way — with no extra time for a separate sealing step. Wash your car every week or two and you invest no extra time, yet after a handful of washes you get clearly better beading and a visibly deeper gloss. For this group the Ceramic ActiveShampoo is the most efficient protection product for the effort and cost.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor owners with existing ceramic coatings the Ceramic ActiveShampoo is the recommended pick for wash-maintenance between the yearly coating refreshes. Because the shampoo carries no aggressive surfactants and actively feeds the coating with Si-Carbon particles, regular use noticeably extends the coating's lifespan and how well it holds up. A combo of weekly washing with the Ceramic ActiveShampoo and a monthly refresh with the SONAX XTREME Ceramic QuickDetailer keeps the coating in top shape long-term, with no pricey pro applications between the regular service intervals.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor new-car owners the Ceramic ActiveShampoo is an ideal way into structured paint protection: start out washing with a shampoo that actively builds protection and you end up, over the long run, with paint in better shape than someone who only starts protecting years later — by which point the surface has already oxidised deeper.\n\nWhere the Ceramic ActiveShampoo is less suited: cars washed only in automatic wash lines, and situations where the car is polished or freshly coated right after the wash — there a residue-free shampoo with no protection components is the better fit. It's also not meant for cleaning wheels, tyres and suspension parts; for those, reach for the matching specialist cleaners in the SONAX range. As a verified SONAX stockist, Detailing1 carries the XTREME Ceramic ActiveShampoo permanently — on its own and as part of wash-set recommendations. The product comes in the 500 ml bottle; for operations with higher wash volume it's worth buying several, since the bottle covers about 10 hand washes and the ceramic build-up keeps improving the more often you use it.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":49160880423247,"sku":"D1-SNX-2592000","price":12.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/Sonax-XTREME-Ceramic-Active-Shampoo-Autoshampoo-4.png?v=1721514270"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-scheibenreiniger-1-100-wischwasser-konzentrat","title":"XTREME ScheibenReiniger 1:100 Screenwash Concentrate","description":"\u003ch2\u003eUp to 25 litres of screenwash from a single bottle — SONAX XTREME ScheibenReiniger 1:100 as a super-concentrate\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat makes SONAX's screenwash super-concentrate different? You dilute it 1:100 with water — a 250 ml bottle gives you up to 25 litres of ready-to-use screenwash that pulls bugs, road grime and film off the glass streak-free.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eNobody buys screenwash on purpose — you only think about it once the tank runs dry, either miles from home or standing in a DIY store paying over the odds for a 5-litre jug. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME ScheibenReiniger 1:100\u003c\/strong\u003e solves that with unusual efficiency: the super-concentrate in its handy 250 ml bottle goes in at 1:100 — that is 2.5 ml per 250 ml of water, or the other way round, one bottle covers 25 litres of washer fluid. That saves you serious space, weight and money compared with the classic ready-to-use screenwash.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e1:100 dilution — one bottle, up to 25 litres.\u003c\/strong\u003e The extreme dilution ratio is the whole point of this product. Next to a 5-litre jug of ready-to-use screenwash, the 1:100 concentrate takes up a fraction of the shelf space and shipping weight. For detailers and vehicle prep businesses that top up washer tanks on customer cars, the 250 ml bottle means compact storage and precise dosing without decanting large volumes.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eStreak-free vision, no smeary residue.\u003c\/strong\u003e The formula is built to break down completely once it dries — no waxy film, no surfactant smears left on the windscreen after the blades pass. That matters for safety, because a hazy film cuts your field of vision badly the moment you drive into low sun.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCuts through bugs, road grime and salt residue.\u003c\/strong\u003e The active surfactants emulsify bug splatter, greasy exhaust deposits and the road film that builds up on the windscreen. Because the actives are dosed high, that cleaning power still comes through in full even at extreme dilution.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA clear view of the road is not a comfort feature, it is a safety requirement. A dirty windscreen slows your reactions, because shapes and hazards show up later through the haze. It gets worse in the rain, when bug remains and road dust mix with water and the blades smear the lot into a greasy film instead of wiping it away. A capable screenwash that is already working inside the washer bottle stops exactly that: it loosens the dirt before the blade arrives and lets the wiper lay down a clean, smear-free sweep — every single time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e For the best results, mix the ScheibenReiniger 1:100 straight into the washer bottle: fill the tank with tap water, then add the matching amount of concentrate — for a typical 3-litre tank that is 30 ml. For baked-on bug splatter on the windscreen you can push the concentration up a bit (1:50 to 1:30) — more cleaner then goes to work with every spray-and-wipe. The 250 ml bottle is perfect to grab for the boot on a road trip: it takes up almost no space and carries you through long distances.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSuper-concentrate technology behind the ScheibenReiniger 1:100 — how it works and why it is formulated this way\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME ScheibenReiniger 1:100\u003c\/strong\u003e runs a highly concentrated surfactant and cleaner formula that turns into a fully functional washer fluid once you cut it 1:100 with water. The ratio is not arbitrary: the actives are dosed so high that even after a 1:100 dilution there is still enough surfactant, sheeting agent and cleaning substance left to work properly on the windscreen and to flash off with barely any residue.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe streak-free finish comes from sheeting agents (surfactants with hydrophobic behaviour) that spread the water evenly and let it run off in a controlled way. Without them the water would sit on the glass in drops and puddles while you wipe, and dry into smears. The sheeting agents in the ScheibenReiniger 1:100 make sure the wash water spreads thin across the whole pane and dries in one even, smear-free layer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe super-concentrate logic follows a clear product development principle: the higher the dilution ratio, the less water you ship in the finished product, the smaller the packaging and the lighter the transport footprint. With the 1:100 concentrate SONAX brings a format that is already standard in other cleaning categories but is still rare in screenwash — a clear win for anyone who cares about the environment, and for pros who want to free up storage space.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the hard cases — heavy bug season in summer, salt smear in winter — you can temporarily push the concentration to 1:50 or 1:30. That flexibility, which a ready-to-use product simply cannot give you, lets one bottle of concentrate cover different cleaning intensities and adapt to the season.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe surfactant package in the ScheibenReiniger 1:100 is designed for biodegradability and material compatibility. The ingredients are picked so that the rubber on the wiper blades, the plastic wiper frames and the paint edges around the windscreen surround are not attacked. That is not a given with heavily concentrated formulas — cheap own-brand concentrates sometimes lean on aggressive solvents that can make rubber go brittle. SONAX tests material compatibility systematically during development, which makes it a dependable choice for continuous use in commercial fleets too.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the ScheibenReiniger 1:100 properly — dosing, filling and season by season\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDosing the 1:100 concentrate is easy to work out: a 3-litre washer tank takes 30 ml of concentrate, a 5-litre tank 50 ml. A simple kitchen syringe or a graduated dosing bottle gets you the exact amount without weighing anything. In real life you can also go slightly heavier without doing any harm — the ScheibenReiniger 1:100 is generously formulated and takes a moderate overdose in its stride.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor summer duty, where bugs and road dirt dominate, stick with the standard 1:100 dilution. If you are driving through bug-heavy country or down dusty back roads, take it up to 1:70 or 1:50. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-scheibenreiniger-sommer-wischwasser-gebrauchsfertig\"\u003eSONAX XTREME ScheibenReiniger \"Sommer\"\u003c\/a\u003e is the ready-to-use alternative if you would rather not measure anything at all — but the concentrate gives you far more litres for your money.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOnce the tank is filled you can check the fresh screenwash straight away: a quick pull on the wiper stalk with a dry screen tells you whether the concentrate spreads evenly and wipes clear. Too little concentrate and you get smears; get it right and the glass comes up evenly clear. That simple check makes dialling in the dose easy.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn the windscreen, which sits in direct sunlight, streak-free performance really counts. Wiper smears catch the light and can cut your field of vision badly — especially into low sun on an early-morning or evening run. A screenwash that leaves nothing behind once it dries is therefore not a comfort feature but a direct contribution to safety.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you run the concentrate across a car pool or a commercial fleet, the win is that you define one standard dose per vehicle type and simply repeat it. A small card in the store room listing tank volume and the concentrate quantity per model is all it takes — nobody needs any chemistry knowledge, they just follow the numbers. Training effort drops massively compared with more complex care systems.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the ScheibenReiniger 1:100 fits — all-year use and special cases\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe ScheibenReiniger 1:100 concentrate is built for the summer season above all — it is not an antifreeze and it is not suitable for temperatures below freezing. In summer, when bugs, pollen, exhaust deposits and road dust load up the windscreen, the concentrate is the most efficient route to a clear view. For winter, switch to a screenwash with antifreeze.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe 250 ml bottle is ideal for the glovebox or the boot — an emergency top-up that takes up almost no room. On long trips or drives abroad you simply carry the concentrate and buy water on the way instead of hauling heavy jugs of screenwash around. That travel logic is one of the most practical advantages the super-concentrate has over ready-to-use alternatives.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor prep businesses that top up the washer tank on customer cars as part of the service, the 1:100 concentrate is the economical answer: storing a handful of 250 ml bottles takes far less room than keeping 5-litre jugs on the shelf, and the concentrate is easier to dose and portion out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne use case that often gets overlooked is the motorhome and camper van. Motorhome drivers cover long distances through very different climates, where bug density and dust load vary wildly. The super-concentrate lets you get through a whole travel season on one small bottle — and tune the concentration to the stretch of road you are on. At the same time the compact format saves a lot of space in the limited storage of a motorhome compared with carrying jugs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eScheibenReiniger 1:100 in comparison — concentrate vs ready-to-use and other products\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eNext to the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-scheibenreiniger-sommer-wischwasser-gebrauchsfertig\"\u003eready-to-use SONAX XTREME ScheibenReiniger \"Sommer\"\u003c\/a\u003e, the 1:100 concentrate wins clearly on price and storage volume. Buy a 5-litre bottle of ready-mixed screenwash and you pay noticeably more per litre than with the concentrate. What the ready-to-use version has on its side is convenience: no mixing, no measuring, straight in the tank.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAgainst the cheap screenwash you find on any shelf, the XTREME concentrate stands out through a formula tuned for streak-free drying. Budget products often go light on sheeting agents and leave a visible film on the glass once dry. The SONAX quality standard — in the concentrate version too — makes sure the cleaning power and the streak-free finish survive even extreme dilution.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor cleaning the glass from the outside — wiping the windscreen by hand — the concentrate mixed with water in a spray bottle works well too. A little concentrate in water, laid down with a \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-microfasertuch-glas-mikrofasertuch\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MicrofaserTuch \"Glas\"\u003c\/a\u003e, pulls the film off the glass effectively. For a deeper glass clean and care routine, the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-scheibenklar-glasreiniger\"\u003eSONAX XTREME ScheibenKlar\u003c\/a\u003e is the dedicated glass cleaner.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe price comparison gets really obvious once you look at the cost per litre of ready-to-use fluid: a typical 5-litre jug sells for around EUR 3–5, which works out at EUR 0.60–1.00 per litre. The 250 ml concentrate costs about the same and makes 25 litres — under EUR 0.50 per litre, with a clearly better cleaning result. That argument lands even with drivers who were never looking for a concentrate in the first place.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the SONAX XTREME ScheibenReiniger 1:100 — who the super-concentrate is for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe super-concentrate is for anyone who wants to buy and store their screenwash sensibly — private drivers who keep a bottle in the glovebox, detailers and prep businesses that top up customer cars as a service, and travellers who would rather not haul ready-mixed screenwash across borders.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eGetting into the SONAX XTREME glass care line pays off: with the ScheibenReiniger 1:100 as your washer concentrate, the ScheibenKlar as the glass cleaner for hand cleaning outside and the MicrofaserTuch \"Glas\" for a residue-free finish, you have everything you need for a clear view all year round in one compact set. One 250 ml bottle of ScheibenReiniger 1:100 covers a whole summer season under normal use — the kind of supply you never notice until it runs out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you want the full picture of the SONAX glass care system: the concentrate covers the everyday wiping, while glass cleaner and glass sealants handle the deeper manual work. Splitting it that way — automatic screenwash cleaning plus manual glass work — keeps your glass permanently clear with minimal effort, without elaborate care protocols or expensive professional treatments. The super-concentrate is the cheapest way into that system.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":49160881045839,"sku":"D1-SNX-02711410","price":10.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/Sonax-XTREME-ScheibenReiniger-1-100-5.png?v=1721514202"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-scheibenreiniger-sommer-wischwasser-gebrauchsfertig","title":"XTREME ScheibenReiniger \"Sommer\" Screenwash (Ready-to-Use)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eClear vision, no mixing — SONAX XTREME ScheibenReiniger \"Sommer\", ready-to-use\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does SONAX's ready-to-use summer screenwash actually do? This premium summer washer fluid pulls insect splatter, road grime and pollen off the windscreen streak-free — no mixing, no measuring, straight into the tank.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you can't be bothered fiddling about every time you top up the washer bottle, the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME ScheibenReiniger \"Sommer\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is exactly what you want: the ready-to-use summer washer fluid goes straight into the tank — no mixing, no measuring, no risk of over- or under-dosing. The 3-litre bottle covers several tank fills, which makes it the most fuss-free format if you just want your screenwash swapped out quickly and reliably.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eReady-to-use — straight into the tank, working immediately.\u003c\/strong\u003e The ready-to-use format is the big win over concentrates: the contents go straight into the washer bottle, no diluting, no calibrating. For pros turning customer cars around fast, and for drivers who don't keep a measuring bottle to hand, ready-to-use washer fluid is the quickest route to a clear view.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEffective against insects, pollen and road grime.\u003c\/strong\u003e The summer washer formulation is tuned to what actually lands on your screen in summer: insect proteins, pollen residue and greasy exhaust particles that bake onto the glass. The surfactants in it emulsify that muck in the water film so the wiper gets a clean, smear-free sweep.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eStreak-free formula for a clear field of view, no residue.\u003c\/strong\u003e Cheap screenwash often leaves a surfactant film behind as it dries, and in low sun or oncoming headlights that film turns into a blinding haze. The SONAX formulation uses sheeting agents that carry the water film evenly off the glass and let it dry with next to no residue — no haze, no compromised view.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA clear field of view is one of the most basic safety requirements there is. Insect splatter on the windscreen spreads into a wide smear the moment it rains, and without a decent washer fluid the wiper never fully breaks it down. Within a couple of sweeps your view can be seriously compromised — especially after dark, when oncoming headlights light up every streak on the glass. A good ready-to-use summer washer fluid isn't about comfort, it's about safety: it has to work when you need it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e With baked-on bug splatter, give the jets a quick squirt before you set off and let the fluid soak the layer for a few seconds before you wipe. That soak breaks down the dried insect proteins so the wiper can lift them in one pass instead of smearing them across the glass. For cleaning the screen by hand at services or a petrol station, the ready-to-use summer fluid also works brilliantly as a spray with a microfibre — a splash from the tank in a small container and a \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-microfasertuch-glas-mikrofasertuch\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MicrofaserTuch \"Glas\"\u003c\/a\u003e for a residue-free finish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFormulation and technology behind the ready-to-use summer washer fluid\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME ScheibenReiniger \"Sommer\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is built on a surfactant-water formulation developed specifically for what summer throws at the glass. All-season and winter fluids have to spend part of their chemistry on lowering the freezing point; a pure summer fluid can put every additive into cleaning power and streak-free drying. The result cuts through insect residue, pollen and greasy exhaust particles better than an all-rounder with antifreeze in it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe streak-free behaviour comes down to specific surfactants that pull the water evenly off the glass after each wipe. These sheeting agents stop the water film from breaking up into isolated drops and puddles that dry into ring-shaped marks. Instead the fluid dries evenly and leaves next to nothing behind — which is exactly what you notice in strong sun, because drying marks show up as blinding streaks against the light.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe formulation is safe on the rubber of the wiper blades, on plastic trim and on the paint around the windscreen. Solvent-heavy budget products attack the wiper lips, shorten their life and wreck the wipe quality. SONAX tests the material compatibility of its washer fluids systematically so the whole system keeps working — something cheap own-brand products often skip entirely.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe 3-litre bottle covers one or two full tank fills, depending on the car. Typical washer bottles hold 2 to 4 litres, so 3 litres sees you all the way through the switch from winter to summer fluid. It comes in a chunky jug with a spout, so you can pour it in without a funnel and without slopping it everywhere. If you've got several cars at home, or you look after customer cars, it's worth keeping two bottles in so the seasonal changeover doesn't stall on a re-order.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the summer washer fluid — filling, changing over and seasonal care\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eUsing ready-to-use summer washer fluid is about as simple as it gets: open the tank, drain or fully empty the old fluid, pour the bottle straight in. Nothing to measure, nothing to mix, nothing to get wrong. The switch from winter to summer fluid makes sense once the frost season is over — as soon as night-time temperatures stay above 0°C and you no longer need antifreeze. From then on the dedicated summer fluid gives you the best cleaning power against insects and pollen.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou can check it works straight after filling: one quick wipe on a dry screen shows whether the surfactants are wetting the glass evenly. If you're wiping a dirty screen right away, let the fluid sit for a moment before you run the wiper. Dried-on bug splatter in particular benefits from a short 10–30 second soak — it breaks up the protein structure and takes the load off the wiper: fewer streaks, less strain on the blade.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you run out before summer does, top up with the same product or at least a compatible summer formulation. Mixing different washer fluids is harmless as long as both are solvent-free and made for the same season. Where it gets awkward is mixing winter antifreeze fluid with a pure summer product — the frost protection gets diluted and you're inviting frozen lines next winter. Emptying the tank completely at the changeover is the cleanest way to do it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf the car runs all year and through changing climates, keep a simple seasonal rule: switch to a winter fluid by the end of October, back to summer fluid by early April at the latest. The ready-to-use 3-litre format covers the spring changeover with one bottle and nothing left over. Come autumn, a fresh bottle of antifreeze fluid — a clean, tidy rotation with nothing sitting on the shelf.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSummer washer fluid for insects, pollen and road grime — what it does in practice\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSummer asks something different of your washer fluid than winter does. Winter fluids mainly fight salt and slush residue; in summer the enemy is organic — insect splatter, pollen, tree sap and greasy particles off the road. That stuff sticks differently from mineral grime and needs surfactants that emulsify organic fats and proteins.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn motorways and A-roads, where the bug density peaks in summer, the screen picks up a serious layer of insect splatter within a few hundred kilometres. Without enough cleaning power in the washer fluid, the wiper just smears it around. The SONAX XTREME summer formulation is built so the surfactants get right into the insect matter and emulsify it — the wiper then clears it in one pass without leaving the classic smear film behind.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePollen is the other seasonal headache, hitting drivers in spring and early summer. Pollen grains are microscopic, they work their way into the glass and turn into a sticky coating as soon as there's moisture around. The washer fluid has to release those particles and carry them off the glass before the wiper drags them across it. A good summer fluid like the XTREME summer product carries enough surfactant to fully break down pollen residue and hand you back a clear view.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSONAX ScheibenReiniger \"Sommer\" compared — ready-to-use vs. concentrate\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you're topping up the washer tank all the time and want maximum flexibility, compare the ready-to-use bottle with the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-scheibenreiniger-1-100-wischwasser-konzentrat\"\u003eSONAX XTREME ScheibenReiniger 1:100\u003c\/a\u003e. The concentrate dilutes 1:100 — a 250 ml bottle makes 25 litres of ready-to-use fluid, which is far cheaper per litre. If you look after several cars, get through a lot of fluid, or want to dial the dilution up and down with how dirty things get, the concentrate wins on economics.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe ready-to-use summer product wins whenever simplicity is what counts: nothing to measure, nothing to mix, nothing to get wrong. For drivers who rarely fill the tank themselves, for pros with no dedicated dosing station, or for anyone who just wants a bottle in the boot, the 3-litre jug is the easier call. Both deliver the same SONAX cleaning quality — the difference is purely how much effort filling takes and what it costs you.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor cleaning glass by hand — the inside of the windscreen, or a deep clean of baked-on film — the ready-to-use fluid works fine sprayed onto a microfibre. If you want to go further with glass cleaning and protection, grab the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-scheibenklar-glasreiniger\"\u003eSONAX XTREME ScheibenKlar\u003c\/a\u003e as a dedicated glass cleaner. For glass inside the car, the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-scheibenklar-2-in-1-glasreiniger-versiegelung\"\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic ScheibenKlar \"2 in 1\"\u003c\/a\u003e cleans and seals in one go.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the SONAX XTREME ScheibenReiniger \"Sommer\" — who the ready-to-use fluid suits\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe ready-to-use SONAX XTREME summer washer fluid is for drivers who want a straightforward, high-quality fluid for the summer season — no working out concentrations, no measuring jug, no mixing. The 3-litre bottle is the seasonal-purchase format: fill it once, run the season.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you're commercial and juggling several cars or bigger volumes, take a look at the concentrate instead. Private drivers with one car who just want a reliable summer fluid with no fuss are well served by the ready-to-use format. Pair the summer fluid for everyday wiping with the SONAX XTREME ScheibenKlar for the occasional deep clean and a SONAX PROFILINE MicrofaserTuch \"Glas\" for glass by hand, and you've got a complete screen-cleaning system for the whole summer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSONAX positions this summer fluid as the way into the XTREME glass-care range — with the promise that the cleaning power holds up whether you drive at weekends or eat up motorway miles. If you actually choose your washer fluid rather than grabbing the first bottle on the petrol-station shelf, the XTREME summer fluid is a sound call: SONAX quality, ready to go, for the whole season.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"3 liters","offer_id":49160881078607,"sku":"D1-SNX-0272400","price":7.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/Sonax-XTREME-ScheibenReiniger-Sommer-gebrauchsfert-0.png?v=1721514301"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-lederpflegeschaum-lederpflege","title":"XTREME LederPflegeSchaum Leather Care","description":"\u003ch2\u003eClean, condition and protect leather in one step with SONAX XTREME LederPflegeSchaum\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX XTREME LederPflegeSchaum do? The silicone-free combination product cleans and conditions real, synthetic and vegan leather at the same time — with carnauba wax and beeswax for lasting impregnation, UV protection and no slippery finish.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eLeather is a demanding material — hard-wearing and premium, but it punishes neglect. Leather car seats build up embedded dirt, skin oils, body lotion and sweat over time, and that dries the leather out, makes it brittle and eventually cracks it. Look after your leather regularly and it stays supple, good-looking and worth something. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME LederPflegeSchaum\u003c\/strong\u003e makes that easy: it cleans and conditions in a single step, leaves a non-slip finish and protects with carnauba wax, beeswax and a UV filter against re-soiling and fading. The silicone-free concept is a real difference from most conventional leather products — no silicone residue that gums up surfaces over time or seals the leather and blocks its natural breathability. For every smooth-leather surface in the car — seats, steering wheel, door cards, gear lever — the XTREME LederPflegeSchaum is a complete care solution in a handy 250 ml aerosol can.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSilicone-free — no residue that harms leather in the long run.\u003c\/strong\u003e Silicone-based leather products give you a nice shine straight away, but the silicone sits on the leather as a film and stops the material breathing over time. The XTREME LederPflegeSchaum skips silicones completely and works with natural wax components instead — carnauba wax and beeswax — which pull into the leather and protect it from the inside.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCleaning and conditioning in one step — safe on every leather colour.\u003c\/strong\u003e The dye-free foam pulls dirt, oil and grease out of the leather without shifting the colour. That means one product for black, beige, red and white leather with no risk of colour change. At the same time the wax content conditions and impregnates the leather — no separate second step needed.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCarnauba wax and beeswax for long-term leather health.\u003c\/strong\u003e These two natural waxes have been proven on leather and wood for centuries. In the XTREME LederPflegeSchaum they form a breathable protective layer that keeps dirt from settling back in while keeping the leather's natural suppleness. The impregnation keeps it elastic and stops the drying and cracking that starts within a few years on neglected leather.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Vacuum the leather thoroughly before you lay the foam down — embedded grit and sand would grind fine scratches into the surface as you work it in. Spray the foam onto a microfibre applicator pad or a soft cloth (never straight onto the leather), spread it evenly and massage it in gently. Then wipe off with a dry cloth. On lightly dyed or pale leather, always test on a hidden spot first to make sure the colour holds. On perforated leather, make sure no excess foam gets into the perforation holes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSilicone-free leather care — why wax technology serves the leather better long term\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSkipping silicones in the XTREME LederPflegeSchaum isn't a marketing line, it has technical consequences you see in the material years down the road. Silicones are popular in care products because they throw a silky shine almost instantly and go on and spread easily. The catch: silicones don't pull into the leather, they build a film on the surface. That film is closed — it stops the leather breathing and traps the moisture that naturally circulates inside it. Over time the leather hardens and goes brittle under the silicone film, and you don't see it from the outside until it starts to crack. Carnauba wax and beeswax behave differently: their molecular build lets them work into the leather structure and protect it on a cellular level. The leather stays breathable, the natural oils and moisture keep circulating in the material, and the waxes shield it from dirt and skin oils coming in from outside.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe foam formulation has another technical advantage: the foam spreads the actives evenly across the surface and into the leather's microstructure before you work it in. Liquid products tend to run unevenly and pool in the low spots. The foam's consistency keeps it where you put it and lets you treat the whole surface evenly — including seams, folds and seat hollows, where dirt loves to collect. The UV filter matters a lot in a car interior: sun through the windscreen and side glass ages leather fast — UV breaks the leather fibres down at molecular level and leads to fading and cracking. The UV filter in the LederPflegeSchaum shields the leather from that invisible damage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn cars with heated seats the silicone-free formula matters even more, because heat drives silicone-based products back out of the leather and speeds up ageing. The carnauba and beeswax formula of the XTREME LederPflegeSchaum is more heat-stable than silicone products and stays active in the leather longer even on regularly heated seats. In practice: fewer applications for the same protection, so less work over the life of the car.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the XTREME LederPflegeSchaum properly — the leather care workflow that works\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGood leather care starts with the prep. The leather needs to be dust-free and clear of loose dirt before the foam goes on — best done with a thorough vacuum using an upholstery nozzle. Embedded, damp dirt should be lifted with a slightly damp cloth first, so it doesn't get rubbed into the leather as you work the foam in. On heavily soiled leather, a separate clean with a dedicated leather cleaner before the LederPflegeSchaum is worth it. On the high-touch spots — steering wheel, gear lever, the seat bolsters — a mix of skin oils, hand sweat and dirt builds up over months and works deep into the leather, and it's hard to get out completely without a proper pre-clean. Don't skip that step and you see the difference straight away: the foam pulls in evenly instead of sitting on a film of grime, and the finished result is visibly more even and brighter.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe application itself is straightforward: shake the can, spray the foam onto a microfibre applicator pad or a soft cloth, never straight onto the leather. Put the pad on the leather and work the foam in with even circular or straight strokes — on seats, go section by section, top to bottom, so no drips land on areas you've already done. Let the foam dwell briefly (about 1–2 minutes) until it turns slightly clear, then wipe off with a dry, clean microfibre. The treated surface shouldn't feel slippery — if it does, you laid down too much product and it needs another thorough wipe.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHow often you do it depends on how hard the car works. Rule of thumb: every two to three months on a daily driver, every six to eight weeks on cars that get a lot of sun (convertibles, big glass roofs). For leather bike suits and clothing that live outdoors, more often makes sense. A reliable signal that it's due: when the leather stops beading water and feels dry or leathery to the touch, the protective layer is spent and it's time for a fresh treatment. Keep the car in a garage and you can stretch the intervals a bit — but leather ages even without direct sun, so at least twice a year is worth it even for garage cars, to keep the material elastic and supple. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-lederpflegemilch-matteffect-lederpfle\"\u003eXTREME LederPflegeMilch \"Matteffect\"\u003c\/a\u003e is a good companion if you'd rather keep a matt look — same working principle, developed specifically for matt leather surfaces.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere it works — the leather surfaces the LederPflegeSchaum is made for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME LederPflegeSchaum\u003c\/strong\u003e works on every smooth-leather surface: seats in real or synthetic leather, steering wheels, gear levers, leather dash trim, door cards, centre consoles and glove boxes. Outside the car it does just as well on leather bike suits, leather bags, gloves, boots and leather furniture. The dye-free formula makes it safe on every leather colour — from classic black through beige and light grey to the more exotic reds, blues and whites.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOne thing to watch: the LederPflegeSchaum is built for smooth leather — nubuck or suede, with their rough nap, are off the list, because it would change the microstructure of those surfaces. For Alcantara trim, which often sits right next to leather in the cabin, the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-polster-alcantarareiniger-textilreini\"\u003eXTREME Polster+AlcantaraReiniger\u003c\/a\u003e is the right call — it was developed specifically for textile and Alcantara surfaces. So a car with mixed materials — leather and Alcantara on the same seats — can be done properly with two specialised products, without compromising on either.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eVegan leather — synthetics made from PU foam, microfibre or plant-based materials — is fine with the LederPflegeSchaum too. Vegan leathers are often more delicate than the real thing, because they lack the natural oils and cellular structure that keep hide flexible. Regular treatment with the silicone-free foam keeps those surfaces supple for longer and stops the peeling and flaking that shows up on neglected synthetics after a few years. On cheaper cars with synthetic leather trim in particular, this is a cost-effective way to keep the cabin looking worth something.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eLeather care compared — foam vs. spray vs. milk\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLeather products come in different consistencies — foam, spray, milk (lotion) and wax. Each consistency has strengths and weaknesses depending on the job. Against sprays, the XTREME LederPflegeSchaum wins on controlled coverage: sprays throw a fine mist that's hard to aim and lands on surfaces that aren't leather. The foam stays where you put it and keeps the job clean. Against wax products, the foam wins on cleaning: waxes condition but don't clean — clean first, then wax, and you're buying two products. The foam does both in one. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-lederpflegemilch-matteffect-lederpfle\"\u003eXTREME LederPflegeMilch \"Matteffect\"\u003c\/a\u003e is the liquid option if you prefer a matt rather than a glossy finish — similar active mix, but without the gloss-giving wax components and with a thickener for the spreadable milk consistency.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWho is the LederPflegeSchaum right for? Anyone who wants a simple, forgiving solution that covers cleaning and conditioning in one. The aerosol can is easy to handle, the foam is easy to dose, and the silicone-free formula means healthier leather long term. If you want to go all-in and you're happy to run separate cleaning and conditioning steps, a dedicated leather cleaner as a first stage will get you even better long-term results. But for day-to-day maintenance every few months, the XTREME LederPflegeSchaum is a complete and very efficient answer that doesn't need anything else alongside it. At Detailing1 you'll find it together with the right accessories, like the SONAX microfibre applicator pad for the best application.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying advice — who the LederPflegeSchaum is the first choice for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME LederPflegeSchaum\u003c\/strong\u003e is the ideal pick for anyone with a leather interior who wants to keep on top of it without a complicated multi-step routine. It's especially worth it on as-new leather, where prevention beats restoration — treat it early and you head off the drying and cracking that hits neglected leather sooner or later. On older leather with visible dry patches (dull, rough surface) the foam is an effective refresher that brings the natural suppleness back. Used sparingly, the 250 ml aerosol can covers plenty of full interior sessions, and it's compact enough to keep in the car — for a quick refresh after a long day behind the wheel. Once leather has cracked, you can't fully repair it; regular care is an investment in prevention that clearly pays off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBuy a car with a leather interior and a product like the XTREME LederPflegeSchaum is as essential as car shampoo is for the outside. Keep the leather in good shape over the life of the car and you push the resale value up noticeably, because worn leather drags a valuation down hard — and well-kept leather reads as a sign of a careful service history. In most cases the money you put into regular leather care comes back clearly at resale. It also slots neatly into a complete interior kit: together with the XTREME Auto-Innen-Reiniger for plastics and the dash and the XTREME Polster+AlcantaraReiniger for the textile areas, you get a full interior clean that treats every material with the right product. A full interior session — leather, plastic, textile and glass — usually takes no more than an hour with the right products, and it leaves the cabin so fresh, clean and cared-for that it feels new every time. Once you've felt what properly cared-for leather feels like, you won't want to go back.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":49160882389327,"sku":"D1-SNX-02891000","price":13.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/Sonax-XTREME-LederPflegeSchaum-6.png?v=1721514212"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-trockenwasche-waterless-wash-detailer","title":"XTREME TrockenWäsche \"Waterless-Wash\" Detailer","description":"\u003ch2\u003eClean your car without water — SONAX XTREME TrockenWäsche \"Waterless-Wash\"\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is a waterless wash and when do you need it? A waterless-wash formula carries surfactants and lubricants that lift dirt particles off the surface as you spray, then trap them in the microfibre — a full car clean with no tap, no bucket and no drain.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA normal car wash means a garden hose, a bucket and somewhere for the water to drain — and for cars in underground car parks, on company premises with no water supply, or in areas where water is scarce, that's a real headache. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME TrockenWäsche \"Waterless-Wash\"\u003c\/strong\u003e takes the tap out of the equation: the 750 ml spray cleans paint, plastic, rubber, metal and glass without a single litre of water — and leaves gloss, slickness and a hydrophobic protective layer on whatever you treat. For light to medium dirt it's the fastest, most flexible way to clean a car on the move.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eA full car clean with no water supply.\u003c\/strong\u003e The waterless-wash formula wraps around dirt particles as you spray and lifts them off the surface before you pick them up with the microfibre. No rubbing dry grit across the paint, no smearing particles that could leave scratches. The lubricants in the formula keep the microfibre gliding over the paint — the dirt ends up in the cloth, not as a scratch in the surface.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eGloss and beading in one pass.\u003c\/strong\u003e The spray doesn't just clean, it cares for the surface at the same time: polymers in the formula fill microscopic surface flaws and visibly deepen the colour. After treatment water beads off noticeably better than before — the waterless wash has a measurable sealing component that builds up the protective layer on the paint with every use.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWorks across every exterior surface.\u003c\/strong\u003e The SONAX XTREME TrockenWäsche suits paint, glass, plastic, rubber and metal alike. That keeps things simple day-to-day: one product for the whole exterior, no juggling separate spray bottles for different materials. On glass it leaves a streak-free, hydrophobic film — a welcome bonus for your windows with no separate glass cleaner.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Never spray it straight onto heavily soiled paint — the waterless wash is built for lightly to moderately dirty cars. If there's visible sand or caked-on mud, knock the loose grit off first with a blast of compressed air or a soft dusting brush, so no hard particles drag across the paint and leave scratches as you wipe. Always spray onto a fresh microfibre cloth (never straight onto the paint) and wipe in straight, overlapping passes with light, even pressure. Keep two cloths going: one to lay the product down and pick up the dirt, one to buff. Turn or swap the application cloth after every one or two panels — a dirt-loaded cloth will scratch even with the best lubricant formula behind it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSurfactant-lubricant technology — how the waterless wash lifts dirt without water\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe formula behind the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME TrockenWäsche \"Waterless-Wash\"\u003c\/strong\u003e pairs two active groups that together let you clean without water. Surfactants are surface-active agents that settle at the boundary between a dirt particle and the paint: they weaken the bond between dirt and paint, lift the particles off the surface and hold them suspended in the liquid you've applied. Lubricants cut the friction between the microfibre cloth and the paint right down — the cloth fibres glide over the paint with no direct contact between the paint and the trapped grit.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is exactly why the right microfibre makes or breaks a waterless wash: the fibres need to be fine enough to pull dirt particles up and lock them deep in the cloth — not hold them at the surface, where the next pass drops them back onto the paint. Quality microfibre cloths with a fibre density of at least 300–400 g\/m² and fine cross-weave patterns are far better suited to a waterless wash than thin household microfibres or terry towels. Fibre density sets the capacity — the finer and denser the weave, the more dirt stays locked in the cloth instead of coming back onto the paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe polymer components in the formula handle the protection and gloss: once you've cleaned and dried, they leave a thin polymer layer on the surface that briefly masks scratches optically, intensifies the colour and makes the surface hydrophobic. This layer isn't as durable as a proper hard wax or ceramic sealant, but for everyday use it gives you enough protection between your regular care intervals. Use the waterless wash regularly and that polymer deposit adds up over time into a measurable protective film.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe antistatic side effect of some waterless-wash formulas is an often-overlooked plus: spreading the polymer solution evenly over the bodywork lowers the static charge on the paint. Freshly washed cars pull in fine static dust from the friction of drying — especially in dry winter air or in the garage. The waterless wash, used regularly, knocks that charge down and keeps the paint dust-free for longer after treatment. Not every waterless-wash product does this — it depends on the polymer make-up of each formula.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne important physical limit of waterless-wash technology: sand and fine mineral dust are the critical types of dirt you have to handle with real care. Sand grains have a high Mohs hardness (6–7) and can scratch paint even through the best lubricant if they get dragged mechanically across the surface as you wipe. For heavily sanded cars a conventional water pre-wash is still the safer call; the waterless wash shines on light to medium road grime and on freshly washed cars you want to refresh quickly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the waterless wash — microfibre, wiping passes and the critical dirt level\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe waterless-wash routine is built for efficiency: shake the bottle, spray onto a clean, fresh microfibre cloth (4–6 sprays for a medium panel like a car door), wipe across the panel in straight, overlapping passes. Always work top to bottom — the dirt travels down, not back up onto areas you've already cleaned. Go over the panel with a second clean microfibre and buff until there's no product film left.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA car with four doors, bonnet, roof and tailgate takes about 15–20 minutes with this method and around 6–8 microfibre cloths (depending on size) when you do it properly. You flip the cloths to the clean side after every one or two panels and swap them once they're saturated. For a 5 Series BMW or a similar mid-size saloon, reckon on 120–180 ml of product per full treatment — so the 750 ml bottle covers 4–6 full cars, depending on dirt level and car size.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDoor sills, mirror housings and exterior handles are areas a waterless wash cleans especially efficiently, since there's no run-off from the rubber seals to mop up — a classic wet-wash problem that leaves white limescale spots in the door shuts once it dries. With the waterless wash, run the cloth into the edge of the door frame, take in the rubber seal (it benefits from the care component too) and wipe the whole door entry in one go. The result: a clean door shut with no limescale marks and no wet floor inside the car.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTake extra care on glass: you can clean the windscreen and side windows with the waterless wash, but wipe marks on glass really show up against the light. Run the second (dry) buffing cloth over glass with the most pressure and even circular strokes until no smears are left. If you check it through sunglasses or at an angled light, you'll spot streaks earlier than in straight daylight — a handy check for professional work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhen the TrockenWäsche really plays to its strengths\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe waterless wash is the clear winner over conventional methods in certain situations — above all when you're short on time, space or water but still need a presentable car. The obvious one: cars in underground car parks or on company premises with no water supply. If you park in an office building with an underground bay, you can keep your car clean between proper washes — no car wash, no hose, no bucket needed. That flexibility makes the waterless wash the ideal companion for anyone who likes to keep on top of their car but doesn't always have a tap to hand.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn a mobile detailing setup the waterless wash is an essential tool for between-jobs refreshes and hand-over finishes: when a car needs a final touch-up before delivery after a detail, or dust has settled on freshly detailed paint after it's stood a while, the waterless wash is quicker and gentler than going at it with another wet wash. The car is showroom-ready again in 20 minutes, without repeating the whole wash routine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFrom an environmental and resource angle: a full hand wash with bucket and hose typically uses 50–150 litres of water. The waterless wash uses zero litres — a relevant point in regions with water restrictions, during dry spells, or for owners who want to cut their water use on purpose. For businesses with environmental certification requirements (e.g. ISO 14001 or similar standards) the waterless wash is a documentable step toward resource efficiency in car care.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor wrapped or filmed cars the waterless wash is especially worth a look: pressure washers and aggressive shampoos can lift film edges or damage the wrap; the gentle waterless wash cleans film surfaces with no mechanical or chemical stress. Anyone caring for cars with matte film or gloss colour wraps will value the waterless wash as a daily cleaning solution that goes easy on the film.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eTrockenWäsche compared — XTREME vs. PROFILINE Waterless-Wash and BrilliantShine\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX line has two waterless-wash versions: the XTREME and the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-trockenwasche-waterless-wash\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE TrockenWäsche \"Waterless-Wash\"\u003c\/a\u003e. The PROFILINE version is formulated specifically for heavy, day-in day-out professional use in detailing businesses — with a higher lubricant and active content for more safety on slightly dirtier surfaces and for detailers working through plenty of cars a day. The XTREME version is the everyday product for private users and semi-pro detailers: same core technology, optimised for the 750 ml bottle format and occasional to regular home use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-brilliantshine-detailer-quick-detailer\"\u003eSONAX XTREME BrilliantShine Detailer\u003c\/a\u003e is the sibling product in the quick-detailer category: it's less about cleaning and more about boosting gloss and care — ideal for cars that are already clean and just need a lift after a wash. If you wash the car wet first and then reach for a quick detailer for the finishing gloss, you grab the BrilliantShine. If you want to clean and care without water, you grab the TrockenWäsche. The two work hand in hand: the TrockenWäsche for cleaning without water, the BrilliantShine for the gloss finish after a wet wash.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne difference that matters in practice is how the two lines handle different temperatures: the PROFILINE version is built for professional use between 5°C and 35°C; the XTREME version takes light cold better, since the formula is tuned for broader everyday use. Below 5°C it's worth warming the spray briefly in a warm pocket — cold formulas are thicker and spread less evenly on the cloth. In frost, or with cars that are very cold, store the waterless wash inside the car rather than letting it freeze in the boot overnight, since freezing can damage the formula for good.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSet against the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-quickdetailer-quick-detailer\"\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic QuickDetailer\u003c\/a\u003e, the positioning is clear: the Ceramic QuickDetailer is primarily a protection and care product with Si-carbon technology for already-clean surfaces; it's not a cleaner and isn't meant for removing dirt. The TrockenWäsche, by contrast, combines cleaning and care — less ceramic-protection depth than the Ceramic QuickDetailer, but full cleaning power without water.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying a waterless wash — who the TrockenWäsche is the right choice for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX XTREME TrockenWäsche \"Waterless-Wash\" is the first choice for car owners with no regular water supply at their parking spot, for mobile detailers working across different locations, and for anyone who likes to refresh their car often between main washes. The 750 ml bottle is practical for single-car owners; run several cars or a professional operation and you'll do better with the PROFILINE version in larger sizes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the most care out of it: use the waterless wash as your cleaning solution for the weekly refresh, and after especially hard use (motorway runs, bad weather) add the Ceramic QuickDetailer for protection build-up. That pairing — cleaner and protection product — covers the whole care workflow without water and keeps the paint in good shape long-term. As a verified SONAX dealer, Detailing1 stocks the XTREME TrockenWäsche permanently. If you want to put together a full quick-care kit with no water supply, pair the TrockenWäsche with a set of quality microfibre cloths (at least 6–8 for one car), a soft bodywork dusting brush to knock off loose grit first, and the Ceramic QuickDetailer for final protection on the most exposed areas like the bonnet and roof. That gives you a compact, waterless care kit you can use anywhere — in the car park, at work, or out camping where there's no tap within reach.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"750ml","offer_id":49160884650319,"sku":"D1-SNX-03264000","price":13.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/Sonax-XTREME-TrockenWasche-NEU-2.png?v=1721514325"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-ceramic-reifen-felgendetailer-quick-detailer","title":"XTREME Ceramic Tyre+Wheel Detailer Quick-Detailer","description":"\u003ch2\u003eCare for tyres and wheels in one step — with the SONAX XTREME Ceramic Reifen+FelgenDetailer\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX XTREME Ceramic Reifen+FelgenDetailer do? This 2-in-1 quick detailer with Si-Carbon-Technology cleans, protects and dresses tyres and wheels at the same time — a natural matte tyre finish plus a ceramic protective layer that lasts up to three months.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you treat tyres and wheels separately, you know the drill: wheel cleaner first, then tyre dressing, then a wheel sealant — three products, three steps, three rounds of dwell time and rinsing. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic Reifen+FelgenDetailer\u003c\/strong\u003e squeezes all of that into a single step. The 2-in-1 product with Si-Carbon-Technology cleans light surface dirt, lays a ceramic protective layer onto tyres and wheels, and leaves a natural matte finish on the tyre and an intense gloss with beading on the wheel — no rinsing, no dwell time, straight onto a wet or dry surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCeramic protective layer with long-lasting beading.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Si-Carbon-Technology forms an inorganic-organic silicon compound that sinks deep into the surface. On the wheels it builds a hydrophobic barrier that fends off brake dust, road grime and the weather. The beading holds up to three months under normal conditions — clearly longer than your usual spray sealants.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eA natural matte tyre finish instead of artificial high gloss.\u003c\/strong\u003e A lot of tyre dressings give you that oily, glossy look that reads fake and pulls in dust. The Ceramic Detailer brings tyres back to their original matte, factory-fresh look — no mirror shine, no greasy film, no dust magnet. Used regularly, it clears up brown discolouration and protects against premature cracking and ageing.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEasy-to-clean effect on wheels for quicker follow-up washes.\u003c\/strong\u003e The ceramic layer makes the wheel face extremely slick. After treatment, brake dust and grime grab on far weaker and come off with much less effort on the next wash. Treat your wheels regularly with the detailer and you noticeably cut the cleaning effort per session.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e The Ceramic Reifen+FelgenDetailer reaches its full protective effect on clean surfaces. Give tyres and wheels a thorough clean before the first application — baked-on brake dust and stubborn tyre grime have to be gone before you lay the detailer down. After that first clean, spray the detailer onto the still-wet surface and rub it in evenly — the water on the surface helps you spread the product evenly. Right after application, without rinsing, the ceramic actives go to work and build up the protective layer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSi-Carbon-Technology — how the ceramic formula works on tyres and wheels\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic Reifen+FelgenDetailer\u003c\/strong\u003e is built on Si-Carbon-Technology — an active concept that pairs ceramic silicon compounds with organic carbon structures. The result is an inorganic-organic hybrid that bonds to both material types — rubber (tyres) and metal or paint (wheels) — and forms a thin, stable protective layer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn wheels, the silicon compound settles into the micro-structure of the surface. What you get is an extremely slick, hydrophobic layer that makes water bead off and gives dirt nothing to grab onto. On polished aluminium wheels it brings out an intense high gloss; on matte or brushed wheel finishes the matte look stays — the protective layer matches the look of the surface instead of changing it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn tyres the mechanism works a little differently. Rubber is porous and pulls actives deeper into the surface than metal does. The Si-Carbon compound works into the outer rubber layer and forms a soft, protective barrier there that fends off UV, ozone and moisture better. That's why the detailer doesn't just smarten tyres up — it extends their life too: UV and ozone are the main drivers of tyre ageing and cracking, and the protective layer noticeably cuts those down.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe matte look on tyres has a technical reason too: the silicon compound lays down evenly across the rubber, fills small irregularities, but builds no gloss film. The result is an even, deep black that matches the factory state — without the artificial high gloss of silicone-based spray tyre shines that wash off in the first rain and leave streaks behind.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe up-to-three-months durability comes from how deep the Si-Carbon compound works. Surface-level products like simple wax sprays get stripped fast by rain, temperature swings and brake-dust build-up. The ceramic compound is chemically more stable and stands up to pH-neutral cleaners and everyday driving far longer — a quality mark that sets the detailer fundamentally apart from your usual tyre dressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn practice that means: a car owner who washes every two weeks treats tyres and wheels with the detailer roughly every three or four washes — the protection holds between applications. That's a real comfort gain over products you have to reapply after every wash to get any protection out of them. For cars that get looked after regularly, it means clearly less product and less time for the same or better protection level.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the Ceramic Detailer properly — step by step\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe application is compact, but it needs a clean starting point. Give tyres and wheels a thorough clean before the first application — either with a pressure washer and a dedicated wheel cleaner, or as part of a full car wash. Stubborn brake dust and dried-on tyre grime have to be gone so the ceramic actives make direct contact with the material and don't get \"sealed in\" on top of a layer of dirt.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter that first clean — on a still-wet or already-dried surface — spray the product evenly onto tyres and wheels. Lay the product down evenly across the area you're treating and rub it in with a clean microfibre cloth or a soft sponge. Don't rinse — the ceramic actives build their protective layer with no rinse step. That's the key difference from a normal cleaner: the detailer stays on the surface and keeps working there for the long haul.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTreating tyres and wheels at the same time is the heart of the 2-in-1 idea. Spray the tyre first, then the wheel, and wipe both areas down with the same cloth — it saves time and means no switching between different products. On a normal car, doing all four wheels takes between 10 and 15 minutes depending on how practised you are.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor badly soiled wheels with baked-on brake dust, a pre-clean with the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/sonax-xtreme-felgenreiniger-plus\"\u003eXTREME Felgen-Reiniger PLUS\u003c\/a\u003e pays off before you lay the detailer down. The wheel cleaner pulls deep-seated brake dust off chemically; the detailer then protects the clean wheel against fresh build-up. Running both products together gets you the best results: clean thoroughly, then protect.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA real-world workflow for the wash weekend: pre-wash the car, spray the wheels with the wheel cleaner and let it dwell while the car gets its pre-wash. Then rinse, wash the car with shampoo, dry it — and to finish, lay the Ceramic Detailer down evenly on tyres and wheels. This sequence uses the dwell times of the different products efficiently and keeps the overall car-care effort within a realistic range.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eProtecting tyres and wheels — what the detailer delivers day-to-day\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe most visible effect of the Ceramic Detailer shows on the tyre: a deep, even black with no gloss patches or run marks. New tyres look deep black straight off the fitting — over time they go brown-grey from UV, ozone and rubber abrasion. The detailer reverses that process and keeps the colour for the long run. For older tyres that have already browned, regular treatment means a gradual win-back of the original black — not in one go, but over several treatments. That makes the detailer interesting for cars with already-aged tyres too, ones that don't yet justify a fresh set but you'd like to smarten up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn the wheels the effect is more subtle but functionally more important. The ceramic layer makes the wheel face less open to brake-dust build-up. Brake dust grabs onto metal surfaces through heat and its iron content — on a ceramic-sealed surface those grip forces are clearly weaker. That means wheels soil more slowly, and when brake dust does land, it rinses off more easily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor long-term care the detailer offers a build-up effect. Do a short treatment round after the car wash every four to six weeks and you stack up a thicker, more stable protective layer over time than a single application gives you. The effort per session is minimal — doing all four wheels takes less than a quarter of an hour — but the effect adds up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother everyday upside is protection against the elements. Brake dust, industrial fallout, bird droppings and acid rain attack unprotected wheel faces over time. The ceramic layer acts as a buffer between these aggressive substances and the wheel face — that extends the life of the wheel coating and lowers the risk of paint damage or corrosion.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe protection matters in particular for cars driven regularly in town or on motorways with heavy brake-dust loads. City cars brake more often and pile up more brake dust per kilometre than cars on country roads. The ceramic layer doesn't cut the amount of brake dust that lands, but it stops it baking into the wheel face — and that's the key difference for how easy the wheels are to clean day-to-day.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe Ceramic Detailer compared — quick detailer vs wheel sealant vs tyre dressing spray\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe tyre- and wheel-care market offers three basic product categories that differ in application effort and protection intensity. Understanding the differences helps you pick the right product for your own care routine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDedicated wheel sealants like the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/sonax-xtreme-felgenschutzversiegelung-felgen-versiegelung\"\u003eXTREME Felgen-Schutz-Versiegelung\u003c\/a\u003e give you a more intense, more durable seal than a quick detailer. They're built for the thorough base treatment after a full wheel clean and hold clearly longer than the detailer's three months. The difference: the full seal is a separate step after cleaning, needs careful prep of the wheel face and is built for the wheel only — not the tyre. If you want maximum, long-term protection for the wheel, the full seal serves you better. If you want a quick care round every four weeks that handles tyres and wheels in one step, the detailer is more efficient.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eConventional silicone-based tyre dressing sprays give a short-term gloss effect and little lasting protection. They wash off fast in the rain and, applied too heavily, can leave streaks on the road — a safety risk on a wet surface. The Ceramic Detailer is the better alternative: a matte look instead of fake gloss, longer durability through the ceramic bond, and no greasy film on the road surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the full care workflow we recommend: \u003ca href=\"\/en\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-sprayversiegelung-spruehversiegelung\"\u003eXTREME Ceramic Spray-Versiegelung\u003c\/a\u003e for the paint as a finishing touch after the wash, and the Ceramic Reifen+FelgenDetailer for tyres and wheels. Both products share the Si-Carbon-Technology principle and are tuned to each other — a consistent care system for every exposed surface on the car. Build ceramic protection consistently on paint, tyres and wheels and you create one even protection level across the whole car — with shorter cleaning times, less effort per wash, and a car that looks clean and cared-for again far faster after the rain.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the quick detailer — who the SONAX XTREME Ceramic Reifen+FelgenDetailer is for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Ceramic Reifen+FelgenDetailer is for car owners who care about good-looking tyres and wheels but want their care effort cut to the minimum. The 2-in-1 idea is especially appealing for drivers who see car care as part of the regular wash weekend: wash, dry, quick treat tyres and wheels — done.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor cars with high-end or sporty wheels, the detailer is a sensible add-on to the occasional full clean. Between deep base cleans with the wheel cleaner, the detailer keeps the wheels fresh and the brake dust at arm's length. That stretches the gaps between base cleans and spares the wheel face fewer rounds of mechanical cleaning contact.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor new cars or freshly detailed vehicles, the Ceramic Detailer is an ideal way into tyre and wheel care: no complicated prep step, no long curing times, no risk in the application. Just apply and work in for a moment after every wash. The protection builds automatically through regular repetition. By the second or third regular application the difference on the wheels is clearly noticeable — brake dust sits looser and comes off with less pressure on the next wash. On the tyres the deep black holds longer between washes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor detailers and car-care pros who look after several cars regularly, the Ceramic Reifen+FelgenDetailer is an economically attractive product. Combining tyre care and wheel care in one product cuts down what you have to stock and simplifies the workflow. One product, one application, both areas covered — that saves time and money with no compromise on the result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBottom line: if you want a simple, effective, time-saving solution for tyre and wheel care that does more than a plain tyre shine spray, the SONAX XTREME Ceramic Reifen+FelgenDetailer sets you up well. The ceramic working principle, the matte tyre look and the easy-to-clean effect on wheels make it one of the most thought-through products in this category — and at an effort that slots into normal day-to-day care without creating extra work. A car whose tyres and wheels get regular ceramic protection simply looks better after the rain and after short city runs than an untreated car of the same age. The effort for that difference is small — the result visible, measurable and lasting over several months.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"750ml","offer_id":49160885666127,"sku":"D1-SNX-3504000","price":12.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/Sonax-XTREME-Ceramic-Reifen-FelgenDetailer-Quick-D-8.png?v=1721514259"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-foliendetailer-quick-detailer-folierungen","title":"XTREME Film Detailer Quick Detailer for Vinyl Wraps","description":"\u003ch2\u003eKeep wraps clean fast and gently with the SONAX XTREME FolienDetailer\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat makes the XTREME FolienDetailer stand out? It's a quick detailer built specifically for PPF, vinyl and matte wraps — it pulls off fingerprints, dust and fresh grime with no solvents, and leaves matte surfaces without that unwanted glossy sheen.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA protective film or vinyl wrap is an investment that needs regular care — but not just any care. Standard quick detailers made for paint can throw an unwanted gloss onto a wrap, leave residue behind, or eat at the film over time. If you want to protect and look after your wrap, you need a product built for exactly that job. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME FolienDetailer\u003c\/strong\u003e is precisely that: a solvent-free quick detailer for every common type of wrap — PPF, gloss vinyl, matte vinyl, chrome film and painted surfaces alike. It pulls fingerprints, dust, fresh water spots and light environmental grime off fast and residue-free, without attacking the film or laying down an unwanted glossy haze on matte wraps. That's what makes it standard kit for anyone who drives a wrapped car day-to-day. After the very first pass it's clear why a specialised product makes such a difference: the wrap stays clean, fresh and keeps its original look — no compromises, and no risk of doing lasting damage with the wrong all-rounder. For new wrap owners the FolienDetailer is the best first step into a proper care routine — it shows straight away what wrap-safe care can do, and lays the groundwork for years of flawless wrap finish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSolvent-free — safe on every type of wrap.\u003c\/strong\u003e Solvent-based cleaners can swell film, discolour it, or weaken how well it bonds to the surface underneath over time. The solvent-free formula plays nicely with PPF, gloss and matte vinyl as well as chrome wraps — no risk to the film material or the paint beneath it. On self-healing PPF in particular, the solvent-free formulation protects the delicate elastomer layer and keeps the self-healing function working for the long haul.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eNo gloss on matte wraps.\u003c\/strong\u003e If you run a matte wrap, you know the headache: plenty of detailers leave gloss spots or streaks on that sensitive matte surface. The FolienDetailer formula has no high-gloss components and lays down no gloss film on matte vinyl — the original matte finish stays fully intact and even, even after repeated use.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eQuick to use, no drawn-out workflow.\u003c\/strong\u003e Spray, wipe, done. The FolienDetailer is made for fast top-ups between the main washes — no dwell time, no rinsing, no drying needed. For everyday wrap care after a city run, parking under trees or driving dusty back roads, that's the ideal time-saving workflow.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Always use the FolienDetailer on a clean, soft microfibre cloth — never spray and wipe straight onto a dirty surface. Fine sand or dust on the film can drag micro-scratches across it as you wipe. On matte wraps we'd run a second pass with a fresh cloth and light pressure to lift every last bit of residue — that keeps the matte look even, with no streaks or fingerprint shadows. And always treat a small test area first when you're putting a product on an expensive wrap for the first time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSolvent-free formula — why wraps need their own kind of care\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eProtective films and vinyl wraps are made from multi-layer polyurethane or PVC materials that are tough enough, but can react badly to aggressive chemicals. The biggest risk from the wrong care isn't always the damage you spot straight away — often it's the slow creep: solvents attack the polymer chains and turn the film brittle, cloudy or uneven over time. Adhesive-eating substances found in some all-purpose cleaners can even chip away at how well the film grips the surface underneath. The XTREME FolienDetailer sidesteps all of that with a completely solvent-free, water-based formulation that neither stresses the film chemically nor changes its mechanical properties.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn self-healing PPF this matters even more: those films carry special elastomers that close micro-scratches back up under heat. Solvents can attack those elastomers and knock out the self-healing for good — damage that only shows up weeks or months later, when the film no longer \"heals\" as well as it used to. With the FolienDetailer the self-healing layer stays fully intact. The formula has no silicones that could make repairs or re-sealing on the film harder, and no wax components that throw unwanted gloss onto matte wraps. The upshot: a product that only ever cleans and freshens up — without the side effects that can be a problem for wraps.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhat plenty of wrap owners underestimate: it's not just the cleaner that counts, it's how often you care for it. A wrap that gets a regular refresh with a wrap-safe detailer shows far less weathering than one that's been neglected. UV, ozone and grime build-up slowly break the surface down — wiping it down and freshening it up regularly slows that process right down. We'd run it every one to two weeks on daily-driven cars, or after any drive in rough conditions like motorways, city traffic or near industrial areas. Keep your FolienDetailer within reach — in the boot or the garage — and you'll soon find the care turns into a quick habit: two minutes after parking, and the car looks brand new again.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHow to use the FolienDetailer the right way — the quick-care workflow for wrapped cars\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe application is kept deliberately simple, because the quick detailer is built for everyday use. The right approach: first check whether the surface is heavily soiled. With caked-on sand, tyre rubber or heavy road grime, run a proper wash with a wrap-safe shampoo first — the FolienDetailer isn't a deep cleaner for stubborn baked-on muck. For fresh deposits and light everyday grime, though, it's ideal: spray the product onto the cloth, lay it down on the film with light pressure, and buff off with a second clean cloth. The cleaning kicks in straight away, with no residue or streaks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn gloss wraps and normal paint the FolienDetailer works like a classic detailer — it leaves a clean surface that looks great. On matte wraps that deliberately gloss-free formula is the deciding factor: no standard quick detailer from the paint side is explicitly tested and cleared for matte film. The dosing is sparing: a few squirts onto the cloth cover one side of the car. The product doesn't run as you wipe and leaves no streaks if you work with the right cloth — ideally a soft microfibre that isn't too short, with a medium pile that picks dirt up instead of spreading it around. Once it's done the car is good to go, no waiting and no buffing out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA question that comes up a lot: can you use the FolienDetailer on a wet wrap? The honest answer is nuanced: in principle yes, but for the best results the film should at least be roughly dried off. On a soaking surface the product thins out too much and cleans less effectively. If you want a quick refresh after the rain, take the worst of the water off with a drying towel and then buff up with the FolienDetailer — that gets you a more even result and stops the water spots that can form as it dries.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere it works — the wraps the FolienDetailer protects\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME FolienDetailer\u003c\/strong\u003e was developed for every common type of automotive film across the board. PPF (Paint Protection Film) is its ideal home: it shields the paint underneath from stone chips and scratches, but is itself sensitive to the wrong care products. The FolienDetailer keeps the PPF surface clean and fresh without compromising the self-healing layer or the film's clarity. For design vinyl wraps in gloss or matte — from a full vehicle wrap to partial accent stripes and bonnet film — it works just as well: it respects both the gloss surface and the matte look, and delivers a clean result on either with no unwanted side effects.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eChrome wraps, which are especially touchy about scratches and solvents, can be treated with the FolienDetailer too — the solvent-free formulation protects that delicate chrome surface and lifts fingerprints and streaks without harming the film's chrome coating. For partly wrapped cars — say PPF on the front and normal paint on the rest — it's handy that the product works on both the film and the paint next to it: one product for the whole exterior, no danger of reaching for the wrong stuff at the transition. The film is also a touch more dirt-repellent after treatment, which stretches out the time until the next wash is due. The FolienDetailer suits interior film accents too — dashboards, door trims or centre consoles with decorative film: it cleans gently without harming the delicate interior film, and is low-odour enough to use inside a closed cabin.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe FolienDetailer in context — where it sits in the care workflow\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the wrap-care workflow the FolienDetailer takes a clear role: it's the quick-care product for in between, not the deep-clean. When a wrap is more heavily soiled — baked-on bug splatter, tree sap, tyre rubber — it needs a more thorough clean first with the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-xtreme-folienreiniger-spezialreiniger-folierungen\"\u003eXTREME Folien-Reiniger\u003c\/a\u003e. That one works with a micro-active surfactant formula that lifts more stubborn deposits too, and it's solvent-free and wrap-safe as well. After the deep clean the FolienDetailer steps in for top-ups and as a daily refresher. That two-step split — intensive clean plus quick everyday care — is the recommended care cycle for any vehicle wrap, and keeps the film in top shape for good. As a rule of thumb: a full wash with the Folien-Reiniger every four to six weeks, and regular refreshes with the FolienDetailer in the weeks between. That keeps the wrap clean, well looked after, and lasting far longer than it would with irregular or wrong care.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor regular paint without film, the SONAX range has more fitting options: the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-quickdetailer-quick-detailer\"\u003eXTREME Ceramic QuickDetailer\u003c\/a\u003e adds a ceramic protection component on top and is ideal for freshly sealed paint. For maximum depth of gloss on standard paint, the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-xtreme-brilliantshine-detailer-quick-detailer\"\u003eXTREME \"BrilliantShine\" Detailer\u003c\/a\u003e with polymer sealant is the one. Neither suits wraps, because they carry components that can throw unwanted gloss onto matte film. So the FolienDetailer is clearly the specialist of the group — with a specific job for which there's no equal all-purpose stand-in. If you want both paint and film covered in your care kit, keep both product groups on hand: FolienDetailer for all the film surfaces, a paint detailer for the rest of the exterior — that's the cleanest, safest approach for a mixed-finish car. Stick with it and at the next once-over you'll find film and paint looking just as good, even though they were cared for with different products — exactly how it should be.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying advice — who the SONAX XTREME FolienDetailer is worth it for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe detailer is a must for anyone who drives a wrapped car day-to-day and wants to care for the film gently. It earns its keep on full PPF wraps just as much as on partial protection film on the bumper or door edges, on full design wraps as much as on individual chrome accent pieces. If you've been using standard quick detailers on your wrap so far, it's worth switching to the specialist FolienDetailer — the risks of solvents and high-gloss components on sensitive film materials clearly outweigh the supposed convenience of a one-size-fits-all product. The compact 500 ml spray bottle is perfect for the boot — always within reach when a quick refresh after parking is in order. A backup in the detailing cupboard won't hurt either: if you regularly look after wrapped cars, you'll soon notice the FolienDetailer is among the most-used products day-to-day.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe FolienDetailer is also well worth it as a follow-up after a wrap treated with ceramic coatings or sealants: it's compatible with sealed film and doesn't attack existing protective layers. With the right care kit — Folien-Reiniger for the thorough clean and FolienDetailer for the quick care in between — you've got everything a wrap needs to stay in top condition. And if you see your wrap as long-term protection or a design choice, regular care makes sure the film looks like day one across its full lifespan of several years.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA closing thought on the economics: a protective film runs from several hundred to well over a thousand euros depending on the scope. The FolienDetailer costs a fraction of that and demonstrably extends the film's life. No responsible wrap owner would skimp on care and risk an unsuitable all-purpose product when there's a purpose-built, affordable alternative. The value for money is excellent — and if you do the care right, you'll have far fewer costs down the line for repairs, re-wraps or heavy cleaning jobs. On top of that: a well-kept wrap is a visible quality signal when you sell the car, and it nudges the resale value up. Show your wrap or PPF in spotless condition and you signal careful ownership to the buyer — and that pays off.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":49160886878543,"sku":"D1-SNX-03982410","price":9.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/Sonax-XTREME-FolienDetailer-Quick-Detailer-fur-Fol-3.png?v=1721514295"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-folienreiniger-spezialreiniger-folierungen","title":"XTREME Film Cleaner Special Cleaner for Wraps","description":"\u003ch2\u003eClean wraps gently and lift road grime with ease using the SONAX XTREME Film Cleaner\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat makes the SONAX XTREME Film Cleaner special? This solvent- and acid-free special cleaner pulls road grime, bug splatter and bird droppings off PPF, vinyl, wraps and matte paint — with a micro-active surfactant formula that cleans hard without attacking the film.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWrapped cars are a more common sight on the road every year — and they come with their own demands at wash time. Regular car shampoo was built for clear coats, not for the delicate surface chemistry of PPF, vinyl wraps or matte paint. Wash a wrapped car with aggressive cleaners or the wrong chemistry and you risk dulling gloss wraps, discolouration along edges and seams, or adhesive bonds letting go early. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Film Cleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e was built for exactly these cars: a powerful special cleaner that lifts road grime, bug splatter, bird droppings and brake-dust film effectively — without putting any chemical strain on the wrap. The solvent- and acid-free formula keeps material compatibility high while still cleaning hard, and the 750 ml spray bottle goes straight onto the film mid-wash. For anyone who wants to look after a wrapped car properly, without leaning on aggressive all-rounders.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePowerful cleaning with maximum wrap compatibility.\u003c\/strong\u003e The micro-active surfactant blend lifts typical road soiling — brake dust, road grime, bug splatter, bird droppings — effectively, without attacking the film coating. By skipping solvents and acids, the chemical integrity of every wrap type stays fully intact, even with frequent use.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWorks on every wrap type — gloss, matte, PPF and vinyl.\u003c\/strong\u003e The cleaner performs equally well on high-gloss wraps, matte wraps, PPF (paint protection film), vinyl graphics and factory matte paint. So there's no reason to keep different cleaners around for different wrap types — one product covers the whole spectrum.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eGoes straight onto the film during the wash — no drawn-out pre-treatment.\u003c\/strong\u003e The spray bottle lets you target dirty areas directly while the car is still wet. That saves time during the wash and lets you focus on problem spots like front spoilers, side skirts and bonnets without a separate cleaning pass.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Always spray the XTREME Film Cleaner onto the wrap while it's still wet during the wash — never onto dry or hot surfaces. The micro-active surfactants need water as a carrier to bring out the full cleaning effect. Work it in with a very soft wash mitt or a dedicated wrap wash cloth — coarse-textured sponges are wrong for film. With stubborn bug splatter it helps to let the cleaner dwell for a moment (30–60 seconds) before you work it in. After the wash, rinse thoroughly and don't let it dry on.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eMicro-active surfactant technology — how the film cleaner lifts dirt without damaging the wrap\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe key to the XTREME Film Cleaner's performance is the choice of surfactant blend. Surfactants are the cleaning-active molecules in detergents and cleaners — they have a water-loving (hydrophilic) and a fat-loving (hydrophobic) end, which lets them lift dirt and grease off the surface and hold it suspended in the water. With film cleaners, though, it's not just about lifting dirt — it's about doing that without damaging the film coating. That's a tougher job than cleaning a clear coat, because film reacts more sensitively to chemistry: solvents can soften wrap adhesive, acids attack matte surfaces and shift their reflectance, and the wrong pH can loosen adhesive seams. The micro-active surfactant blend in the XTREME Film Cleaner is tuned for these demands: the molecular structure is chosen to clean hard without reacting with the film materials themselves. In practice that means no dulling of gloss wraps, no dissolving of adhesive seams and no early lifting at edges and overlaps.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe term \"micro-active\" describes the especially fine distribution of the surfactant molecules in the formulation. Thanks to the small molecule size, the surfactants reach deep into layers of dirt and dissolve even dried-on bug splatter and baked-on bird droppings without any mechanical force. That matters a lot with film: hard rubbing and scrubbing — the kind a clear coat might tolerate — can put fine scratches into film or permanently strain the self-healing effect on PPF. Gentle chemistry replaces mechanical force — that's the principle film cleaning is built on. Another upside of the solvent-free formulation: the product is suited to enclosed spaces and wash setups with limited ventilation, without exceeding VOC limits (volatile organic compounds). For pro detailers working in indoor spaces, that's a relevant factor.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMatte paint and matte wraps put special demands on cleaning chemistry. The matte look comes from a micro-structured surface that scatters incoming light diffusely instead of reflecting it. Any chemical compound that alters that micro-structure — by softening, filling or reacting — changes the level of matteness and creates uneven gloss patches. That's why wax-based products and silicon-based sealants are wrong for matte wraps. The XTREME Film Cleaner contains no wax-like components and doesn't touch the surface structure — it cleans residue-free without changing the matte character.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the XTREME Film Cleaner properly — the ideal wash workflow for wrapped cars\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA wrapped car needs a different wash workflow than a painted one. The most important ground rule: always start with a pre-wash step that rinses off loose dirt before any cloth or mitt touches the surface. Dry sand, brake dust or coarse dirt particles dragged across the wrap create micro-scratches — especially obvious on matte wraps, and impossible to undo. A pressure washer held 20–30 cm away is ideal for the pre-rinse; a strong hose will also do to loosen loose dirt. Only after that pre-rinse does the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Film Cleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e come into play.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUse during the wash is deliberately simple: turn the nozzle to spray, lay the cleaner on generously over the wet film, let it dwell briefly and work it in evenly with a soft wrap wash cloth or microfibre mitt. The key is to always work flat and with light pressure — no circular motions, no force on stubborn spots. If bug splatter or bird droppings don't soften right away, give it a bit more dwell time rather than more pressure. Once it's worked in, rinse off completely. The product mustn't dry on — on hot surfaces or in direct sun it can leave residue that's hard to remove.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA typical workflow for a fully wrapped car looks like this: pre-rinse with a pressure washer or strong jet, then pre-wash the roof, boot and sides with XTREME Ceramic Active Shampoo or a wrap-safe shampoo, and in parallel treat the dirtiest areas — front bumper, bonnet, side skirts — directly with the XTREME Film Cleaner. The combination of shampoo for the base clean and the special cleaner for problem spots is especially effective on wrapped cars, because the micro-active surfactant formula cuts through the stubborn organic soiling (bugs, bird droppings) far harder than a regular shampoo. After the wash, for the best finish the car should get a follow-up with a wrap-safe detailer — for example the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-foliendetailer-quick-detailer-folieru\"\u003eXTREME Film Detailer Quick Detailer for Wraps\u003c\/a\u003e, which brings gloss and beading to the cleaned surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere it works — PPF, vinyl, matte paint and everything in between\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe world of wraps is a varied one, and the XTREME Film Cleaner is built for the whole spectrum. PPF (paint protection film) is the most technically demanding wrap variant: these clear protective films have a self-healing polyurethane surface and react sensitively to alcohol- and solvent-based cleaners, which can permanently damage the self-healing effect. The XTREME Film Cleaner's solvent-free formulation is explicitly safe for PPF — it cleans the surface without penetrating the polyurethane structure. Vinyl wraps are the most common material for full wraps and partial graphics. They're tougher than PPF, but still acid- and solvent-sensitive. Extra care is needed with clear and light-coloured vinyl wraps, which show discolouration from the wrong chemistry far more clearly than dark colours. Here too, the XTREME Film Cleaner formulation is built for material compatibility.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFactory matte paint is another category that needs special care. Manufacturers like BMW, Porsche and Audi have offered matte paint as a special finish for years — and it's extremely care-intensive. Regular waxes and polishes are off the table, because they change the matte structure. The XTREME Film Cleaner can be used on these factory matte finishes without a second thought, since it's free of wax-like components and doesn't alter the paint's micro-structure. Another use case is partial graphics — cars where only certain areas are wrapped (mirrors, roof rails, spoiler lips, A-pillars). Here the cleaner has to work both on the wrapped area and on the adjacent clear coat without leaving visible transitions. The cleaner's wrap-safe chemistry works fine on clear coat too, which makes partial graphics especially easy to handle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn the trade as well — at wrap shops and detailers — the cleaner is suited to the final clean after a fresh wrap. After a new wrap there are adhesive residues, fingerprints and positioning marks left on the film that need removing. The XTREME Film Cleaner lifts these residues gently, without straining a wrap that's only a few days old and whose adhesive is still fully bonding with the substrate.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFilm cleaner compared — special cleaner vs. regular shampoo vs. pro care with a ceramic coating\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe most common question when buying a film cleaner: won't a regular car shampoo do the job too? The answer depends on the wrap type and how dirty it is. For moderately soiled wraps with a light dust film and water spots, a pH-neutral shampoo is perfectly fine. But the moment bug splatter, baked-on bird droppings or brake-dust film are on the film, a regular shampoo hits its limits — it simply doesn't have the cleaning power to lift these protein-based and iron-laden deposits. The XTREME Film Cleaner is the far more effective tool in exactly these situations. It lifts where a shampoo only wipes. The alternative — rubbing longer and harder with the shampoo — is a poor option on film, because mechanical strain does more harm than a stronger cleaner. When you have the choice between more chemistry and more mechanics on film, always go for the chemical route.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe comparison with a universal car-care cleaner reveals another difference: a lot of all-rounders contain wax components, silicones or polymers that bring gloss to painted cars but leave unwanted marks or gloss patches on matte wraps. The XTREME Film Cleaner has none of these additives — it cleans residue-free and leaves the sealing to a separate care product you can then pick specifically for the wrap type. After cleaning with the XTREME Film Cleaner you can apply the XTREME Film Detailer on gloss wraps; for pro long-term protection on PPF and vinyl, the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-vinyl-ppf-folien\"\u003ePROFILINE CeramicCoating \"CC\" Vinyl+PPF Film Sealant\u003c\/a\u003e with up to 24 months of durability is the way to go. This combination — XTREME Film Cleaner for regular cleaning, ceramic coating for long-term protection — is the most professional approach to wrap care and maximises both the finish and the durability of the wrap.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAnother point of comparison is the hand wash vs. the automatic car wash. As a rule, wrapped cars should never be cleaned in automatic gantry washes — the brushes can damage film, and the cleaners used there are tuned for clear-coat surfaces, not for wraps. The XTREME Film Cleaner is designed for the manual hand wash and fully replaces the car-wash visit for wrapped cars. Wash your car by hand regularly with the right cleaner and you'll get an optimal result over the long haul and avoid the typical wash damage that happens in automatic setups.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying advice — who the XTREME Film Cleaner is the first choice for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Film Cleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e is the baseline kit for every wrapped car — a must, not a nice-to-have. If you own a wrapped car and wash it with regular car-care products, you risk damage over time that's expensive to fix: lightened matte areas, swollen wrap edges, adhesive residue under the film. A dedicated film cleaner costs a few euros and protects an investment that, depending on the wrap, runs from a few hundred to several thousand euros. The value for money is excellent: a 750 ml bottle lasts for plenty of washes with sparing dosing, since the cleaner is only used concentrated on the dirtiest spots, while a regular wrap-safe shampoo handles the larger areas.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor owners of cars with PPF, the cleaner is especially important, because wrong care can permanently impair PPF's self-healing properties. PPF wraps quickly cost 3,000 to 6,000 euros or more for a full wrap — a care outlay of 10 euros per cleaner is an absolutely justified investment in protecting that value here. For businesses — wrap shops, car detailers, dealers with a wrapped fleet — the XTREME Film Cleaner is a working tool used daily that quickly proves itself. The simple spray application straight into the wash saves time over multi-stage cleaning processes and delivers consistent results. For the best overall result, it pays to use the film cleaner as part of a complete wrap-care workflow: pre-rinse, XTREME Film Cleaner for problem spots, \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-activeshampoo-autoshampoo\"\u003eXTREME Ceramic Active Shampoo\u003c\/a\u003e for the base clean, drying with a suitable drying towel and finishing care with the XTREME Film Detailer. This workflow keeps a wrapped car in optimal condition for the long term and protects the wrap over its entire lifespan. At Detailing1 the XTREME Film Cleaner is available together with the right wrap-care accessories — from the right brush to wash cloths through to the follow-up sealant for pro long-term protection.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"750ml","offer_id":49160886911311,"sku":"D1-SNX-03994000","price":7.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/Sonax-XTREME-FolienReiniger-Spezialreiniger-fur-Fo-8.png?v=1721514236"},{"product_id":"sonax-felgenbeast-felgenreiniger","title":"FelgenBeast Wheel Cleaner","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eSONAX FelgenBeast lifts brake dust visibly and without attacking the wheel itself\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is SONAX FelgenBeast? An acid-free wheel cleaner with a colour-change indicator that chemically dissolves iron particles on steel, alloy and chrome wheels — TPMS-approved included. Not for freshly repainted wheels, baked-on tar, or hot surfaces straight after a drive.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSONAX FelgenBeast\u003c\/strong\u003e is an acid-free wheel cleaner from SONAX that works with a chemical indicator: the gel turns from clear to reddish-violet within 60 to 90 seconds as soon as it reacts with iron particles from the brake dust. The thioglycolate-based active binds the trivalent iron compounds and converts them into water-soluble complexes that then rinse off without residue.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe wheel surface stays untouched through all of this, because the cleaner reacts chemically with iron only — never with clear coat, powder coating or anodised aluminium. That's what sets the FelgenBeast apart from acid-based cleaners: they work faster, but on polished aluminium or chrome they can leave irreversible etch marks. It gets especially critical on OEM diamond-cut wheels, where the slightest material loss stays visible for good and can't be polished back out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/d1_sonax-felgenbeast-felgenreiniger_hero.png?v=1775901568\" alt=\"SONAX FelgenBeast spray bottle in front of a Porsche 911 GT3 RS wheel\" loading=\"lazy\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eColour change as a real-time read-out.\u003c\/strong\u003e The reddish-violet shift shows you not just whether you've covered the whole face, but also where brake dust is still sitting in pores and spoke edges that your eye can't catch. After 3 minutes you know which spots need a second pass, and you don't have to check with a cloth afterwards to see whether the wheel is really contamination-free.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOne product for your whole fleet.\u003c\/strong\u003e The FelgenBeast is approved for steel, light alloy, painted, chromed, polished and matte wheels — and fully TPMS-compatible. You don't need a second cleaner for winter wheels and a third for OEM alloys with a diamond cut. The one exception: repainted wheels that are no longer original powder-coated.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eTwo sizes for two kinds of user.\u003c\/strong\u003e The 1-litre spray bottle lasts a single car cleaned every two weeks around 3 months. The 5-litre canister is meant for multi-car households and pro detailers — 1 litre per set of wheels works out to roughly 20 full washes per container, which drops the price per litre noticeably.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e The most common mistake with the FelgenBeast is laying it down on wet or hot wheels. Wet wheels dilute the gel by 30 to 50 percent — the dwell time then isn't enough to let the thioglycolate reaction run all the way through. Hot wheels straight after a drive flash the gel dry in seconds, and you end up scrubbing off cleaner residue instead of the brake dust. Wait at least 15 minutes between parking up and cleaning — it's the cheapest quality boost you can hand yourself.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCold wheel. 3 minutes. A second pass.\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eShake the bottle, twist the nozzle open, and lay the cleaner down generously and evenly over the dry, cold wheel from 15 to 20 centimetres away. Start at the bottom and work up, because the gel clings vertically but still runs off after a while, and run marks would flash dry early. Per wheel you're looking at roughly 40 to 60 millilitres — nearer the top end on 17-inch wheels with a complex spoke face, less on plain 15-inch steel wheels.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter 60 to 90 seconds the colour change kicks in. Full dwell time sits at 3 minutes, 5 at most — after that the thioglycolate is saturated and won't react any further. A common mix-up day-to-day: leaving the cleaner on for 10 minutes pulls no extra cleaning out of it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eQuite the opposite — the gel starts to dry on and leaves cleaner residue that means extra work at the rinse. A short second pass on the still-wet wheel is far more effective than a stretched-out dwell time on the first — that's the single most important hands-on insight, the one the maker doesn't spell out on the back of the bottle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTo finish, rinse off with a strong jet of water or the pressure washer, top to bottom, until no reddish film runs off any more. With heavy brake dust on complex spoke patterns, a soft \u003ca href=\"\/en\/collections\/felgenreiniger\"\u003ewheel brush\u003c\/a\u003e helps spread the gel between the spokes — not for scrubbing, just to work it in and spread the second coat evenly. In winter, when the ambient temperature drops below 10 °C, stretch the dwell time generously towards the 5-minute mark, because the reaction speed of thioglycolate falls with temperature. Above 25 °C it's the other way round: work quicker and rinse sooner, before the gel dries on.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/d1_sonax-felgenbeast-felgenreiniger_anwendung.png?v=1775901575\" alt=\"Detailing1 applying SONAX FelgenBeast with the colour change on a wheel\" loading=\"lazy\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThioglycolate dissolves iron. Bitumen, no.\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn regular brake dust from road cars the FelgenBeast works very reliably — that's its home turf. The colour change tells you on top of that what kind of dirt you're dealing with: iron particles react reddish-violet, organic soiling like tar, bitumen or oil doesn't shift colour at all. So after three minutes you know whether you've even got the right tool in your hand, or whether you should switch to an APC or a tar remover instead — a diagnostic step no acid-based cleaner gives you.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs a second use, the FelgenBeast also works as a fallout remover on paint. After car parks next to railway lines, industrial sites or building works, fine iron particles from brake dust and rail grinding settle on the bonnet, roof and boot — often invisible to the naked eye, but instantly felt as a \"gritty\" drag in the clay bar routine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn surfaces like that you spray the FelgenBeast on generously, wait out the colour change and rinse off within 5 minutes. The clear coat stays untouched as long as you don't run past the dwell time and the panel wasn't sitting in direct sun beforehand. In day-to-day Detailing1 work it's the easiest iron decontamination step before a polish, with no extra product on the shelf.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe clear limits: baked-on tar and bitumen spots don't react chemically with thioglycolate — for those you need a solvent-based tar remover. And on extremely baked-on brake dust on race brake setups, or after months of neglect, a single pass can hit its limit. If you need material compatibility across every surface, stick with the FelgenBeast and plan for two passes. If you want maximum cleaning power on wheels you know are robust, the more aggressive \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-felgenreiniger-felgenreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE wheel cleaner\u003c\/a\u003e is the better call for the odd one-off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/d1_sonax-felgenbeast-felgenreiniger_ergebnis.png?v=1775901582\" alt=\"Clean Porsche GT3 RS wheel with water beading after SONAX FelgenBeast\" loading=\"lazy\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFor the regular maintainer, not the worst case.\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe FelgenBeast is the right call for anyone who looks after their wheels every one to three weeks and doesn't want to dig through three different cleaners in the garage every time they swap cars. You reach for the shelf, spray on, rinse off — done. That also makes it the logical first buy for detailing newcomers who've got no experience with material compatibility yet and can't afford a wrong product choice on polished alloys.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe FelgenBeast is especially strong in a two- or three-car household and in fleet use, where winter steel sits next to summer alloy and OEM diamond cut next to a painted spare. One cleaner for every wheel type means, day-to-day: no mix-up risk, no product swap between two cars, no debate over whether the aggressive alkaline cleaner just left marks on the chrome edge.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe FelgenBeast is less suited, on the other hand, when you only clean your car thoroughly once or twice a year and the brake dust has had several months to bake on. Then even the second pass won't pull it all out, because iron oxide has already worked its way into the wheel pores and needs reworking by hand.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs a complete solution you pair the FelgenBeast with a \u003ca href=\"\/en\/collections\/reifenpflege\"\u003etyre dressing\u003c\/a\u003e to finish: decontaminate the wheel chemically first, then dress the tyre. That's the full wheel-and-tyre workflow in two steps and under 15 minutes per car — as long as you stay on it every two weeks and the brake dust never gets the chance to work itself in.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn picking the size: the 1-litre spray bottle is the easy way in for a single car and comes fully ready to go with a fit-on nozzle. The 5-litre canister pays off from the second car, or at the latest in day-in day-out commercial use, because the price per litre is noticeably lower and you just decant the gel into an empty spray bottle. Store frost-free between 5 and 30 °C and use up within 24 months of opening — that keeps the colour change reliably active.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/d1_sonax-felgenbeast-felgenreiniger_lineup.png?v=1775901588\" alt=\"SONAX FelgenBeast 1L spray bottle and 5L canister Detailing1\" loading=\"lazy\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":49160889925967,"sku":"D1-SNX-04333000","price":12.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":49160889958735,"sku":"D1-SNX-04335000","price":48.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-felgenbeast-felgenreiniger.png?v=1721575164"},{"product_id":"sonax-reifenglanz-special-edition-black-beast-effect-reifenpflege","title":"ReifenGlanz Special Edition \"Black-Beast-Effect\" Tyre Care","description":"\u003ch2\u003eDeep-black tyres in minutes — tyre care with the SONAX ReifenGlanz Special Edition „Black Beast Effect“\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat makes the SONAX ReifenGlanz Black Beast Effect stand out? The aerosol spray lays a deep-black, glossy finish on every tyre type that holds for weeks — plus protection against cracking, ageing and faded sidewalls.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFreshly washed car, clean wheels — and then the tyres sit there looking dull and grey. That's exactly the problem the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX ReifenGlanz Special Edition „Black Beast Effect“\u003c\/strong\u003e fixes: a tyre gloss spray that wraps dry, faded sidewalls in a rich deep gloss in seconds. The Special Edition pairs the proven SONAX tyre-gloss formula with a fruity berry scent and eye-catching packaging — without cutting corners on performance. If you want more than clean tyres after a wash, if you want them genuinely black, this spray belongs in your kit. On cars that get washed and cared for regularly, a dull tyre jumps out straight away — and wrecks the whole look you've worked for with shampoo, drying and wheel care.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDeep-black gloss that lasts for weeks.\u003c\/strong\u003e Where other tyre gloss products fade after a few days, the Black Beast Effect holds its rich wet-look for several weeks. The formula lays an even film on the sidewall that stays visible after rain and motorway runs. You don't have to re-spray after every wash — one go every two to three weeks keeps the look fresh. Even after a few wet drives the gloss is still there, because the silicone-based formula repels water and doesn't just wash off.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eProtection against cracking and premature ageing.\u003c\/strong\u003e The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX ReifenGlanz\u003c\/strong\u003e isn't just looks — it's real care: the formula shields the rubber from UV, the weather and the typical drying-out that leaves fine cracks in the sidewalls of older tyres. Cars that spend a lot of time outdoors get the most out of this protective effect. Stay on top of tyre care and you measurably stretch the life of your tyres — something plenty of people underrate, but that pays off in cash with the pricier tyre brands.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDone in under two minutes — no tools.\u003c\/strong\u003e The aerosol formula makes applicator sponges and brushes pointless. You spray from about 20 cm onto the clean, dry sidewall, let it sit for five minutes — done. No rubbing in, no buffing, no overspill on the wheel. That saves time and turns tyre care on all four into a job of a few minutes. Anyone detailing the whole car at the weekend loves that efficiency — tyre gloss is the last step before the car rolls back onto the drive.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Always lay the Black Beast Effect down AFTER cleaning the wheels and washing the car, when the tyres are clean and bone dry. On damp rubber the formula spreads unevenly and the gloss turns patchy. For the best result, degrease the sidewall first with a tyre cleaner or APC (all-purpose cleaner) — the gloss film grips noticeably longer. Keep the overspray off the wheel by holding a piece of cardboard against the rim edge as a shield.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSilicone-based tyre gloss spray — how the Black Beast Effect works\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX ReifenGlanz works off a silicone-based aerosol formula that settles into an even film on the sidewall as you spray. Silicone is the key player here: it optically fills the microscopically rough rubber surface and builds that signature deep gloss — much like a sealant does on paint. At the same time the silicone film forms a hydrophobic barrier that beads water off and stops dirt embedding straight into the rubber. The result is a tyre that doesn't just shine, it stays clean longer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA common myth: lots of people think silicone oil on tyres is harmful or attacks the rubber. The opposite is true — silicone oil is chemically inert towards rubber and acts as a plasticiser that keeps the material supple. What would be a problem is a solvent-based tyre gloss with no caring components — that one could dry the rubber out. The SONAX formula is built specifically to care for the tyre, not just dress it up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eUnlike gel-based tyre care like the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-xtreme-reifenglanzgel-ultra-wet-look-reifenpflege\"\u003eSONAX XTREME ReifenGlanzGel\u003c\/a\u003e, this formula goes on as a fine mist. That brings one big upside: the spread is even by default, no applicator work needed to chase it. The flip side: a spray naturally gives you less control over where the product lands — hence the cardboard-shield trick at the wheel. Product use also tends to run higher with a spray than with a gel you put down precisely and sparingly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe „Black Beast Effect“ that gives it its name describes the deep-black finish, clearly a step up from a subtle satin look. If you want a high-gloss wet-look that catches the eye instantly and lifts the whole car, that's exactly the effect you're after. Prefer it understated and matte — say on an off-roader or a car you want to keep low-key — then the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-xtreme-reifenpfleger-matt-effect-reifenpflege\"\u003eSONAX XTREME ReifenPfleger Matt-Effect\u003c\/a\u003e is the right alternative in the SONAX range.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHow to apply SONAX tyre gloss properly — step by step to a clean result\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe application is deliberately simple, but a few details decide the outcome. Always start with thoroughly cleaned tyres. Old tyre gloss, brake dust and road grime stop the fresh formula gripping evenly. A pressure washer alone often won't cut it — a wheel brush and a tyre cleaner or APC get the sidewalls genuinely clean. If you still feel residue on the sidewall after the wash — sticky spots or a greasy film — the surface isn't ready for tyre gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eShake the can well before use — at least 15 seconds. The propellant and the silicone formula have to mix properly, otherwise you get an uneven spray pattern with dripping. Hold the can about 20 centimetres back and spray in even, horizontal passes across the whole sidewall. Don't spot-spray — that throws up visible patches and runs that are hard to fix.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter spraying, let it sit for five minutes. In that time the formula draws into the rubber and the gloss builds. Then the tyre is done — no wiping needed. One important note: don't apply tyre gloss to hot surfaces. After a longer drive let the tyres cool first — at least 20 to 30 minutes. On hot rubber the solvent flashes off too fast, the formula dries unevenly and the film ends up patchy instead of glossy.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe ideal temperature for application sits between 10 °C and 30 °C. In winter, best done in a garage or on a frost-free day. In high summer look for shade and don't leave the can sitting in full sun. Important: the can itself must not be stored above 50 °C — that goes especially for the summer garage or the shelf above the radiator. And one more tip from day-to-day work: always start with one tyre and check the result before you do all four. That way you can dial in the spray amount and the distance before you commit.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWeeks of tyre gloss — when the Black Beast Effect plays its full hand\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX ReifenGlanz Black Beast Effect shows its full strength as a finisher after the regular car wash. Once the paint is polished, the wheels are clean and the glass is streak-free, there's often just one thing missing: black tyres to round off the whole look. That's exactly where the spray comes into its own — fast, fuss-free and with an instantly visible result. On dark cars especially, the contrast between cared-for paint and dull tyres really stands out — and that's the contrast the Black Beast Effect wipes out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt makes the most sense on older tyres that look faded and grey despite plenty of tread left. UV, ozone and weather pull the natural colour out of the rubber over the months — tyre gloss brings the black back and makes the tyre look like new again. On cars with big wheels and wide sidewalls too — SUVs, saloons or sports cars on 19-inch rims and up — the visual effect really pops, simply because there's more tyre on show.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe fruity berry scent of the Special Edition is a nice bonus along the way: instead of the typical chemical silicone smell that plenty of tyre gloss products carry, you get a pleasant berry note as you spray. In a closed garage that's a genuine plus, because the silicone smell can be properly off-putting and lingers in the room. Not a make-or-break feature — but a detail that makes the job noticeably more pleasant.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAn honest limit: on heavily soiled or already cracked tyres the gloss can sharpen the look a lot, but it can't repair structural damage. If the rubber already shows deep cracks or the sidewall feels brittle, that's a sign of material fatigue — only a new tyre helps there. Tyre gloss is care and prevention, not a repair fix. On filthy tyres with tar spots or bitumen still on them, clean thoroughly first — tyre gloss doesn't cover dirt, at best it seals it under the gloss film.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eTyre care compared — Black Beast Effect vs. XTREME ReifenGlanzSpray vs. PROFILINE Wet Look\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSONAX offers several tyre care products — each with a different finish and application concept. The comparison is worth it, because the „best“ product always comes down to what you expect from gloss level, durability and ease of use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eBlack Beast Effect\u003c\/strong\u003e delivers the most intense gloss in the range: deep-black high-gloss that stands out instantly and lifts the car. If you want maximum wet-look after a wash, the kind you can spot from a distance, this is your product. The aerosol formula makes application extremely fast — four tyres in under two minutes is realistic. The flip side: you have less control than with a gel, and use runs a touch higher because of the mist.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-xtreme-reifenglanzspray-wet-look-reifenpflege\"\u003eSONAX XTREME ReifenGlanzSpray „Wet Look“\u003c\/a\u003e is the classic all-rounder: also a spray, but with a slightly more understated gloss than the Special Edition. The wet look is there, just not as aggressively deep-black as on the Black Beast. For regular everyday use the XTREME spray is the solid pick — less flashy, but universal and available in different pack sizes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-reifenglanz-wet-look-reifenpflege\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE ReifenGlanz „Wet Look“\u003c\/a\u003e is aimed at detailers and heavy users: larger packs, pro-grade yield and an even wet-look finish that holds up in commercial use. Anyone who details several cars regularly — in a detailing business or as a mobile detailer — grabs the more economical product here. The finish quality is comparable, but the value stacks up better at high throughput.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnd then there's the SONAX XTREME ReifenGlanzGel — for anyone who wants maximum control over the application. The gel goes on the sidewall with an applicator, grips better and builds a particularly even, controlled gloss with no overspray on the wheel. The time per tyre is higher — about a minute rather than a few seconds — but for many detailers the result is the most even in the whole SONAX tyre care range.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying tyre gloss — who the Black Beast Effect pays off for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX ReifenGlanz Special Edition „Black Beast Effect“ is ideal for anyone who wants a fast, striking finish on the tyres after a wash — no applicator, no rework, no wasted time. If you're after maximum gloss rather than subtle care and you love the high-gloss look, this Special Edition is the right call. Car owners who wash regularly and care about a tidy overall look in particular get their money's worth from this spray.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe spray fits especially well into the workflow after a full wash: clean the wheels first with the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-felgenbeast-felgenreiniger\"\u003eSONAX FelgenBeast\u003c\/a\u003e, then wash the paint, dry — and finish by spraying on the tyre gloss. In under ten minutes you've got a car that looks cared for from roof to tyre. The Black Beast Effect and the FelgenBeast basically make a set: chemically clean the wheel first, then care for the tyre — so the wheel as a whole is in perfect shape.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe 500 ml can lasts for roughly eight to ten applications on four tyres — depending on how generous you are and how wide your sidewalls run. At a two-to-three-week interval that comfortably takes you through half a season. If you detail more often, look after bigger cars with wide tyres or just like to spray on the generous side, plan for two cans straight away. At a litre price of 27.58 EUR the Black Beast Effect sits in the mid segment for tyre care — not the cheapest spray on the market, but with a gloss result and a durability that justify the price.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBottom line: the Black Beast Effect is the finish spray for show gloss — fast, eye-catching and with real care for the tyre rubber. If you prefer it subtle, grab the Matt-Effect or the classic XTREME spray. But if you want your tyres to look freshly fitted after a wash — there's no way past the Black Beast.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":49160889991503,"sku":"D1-SNX-434400","price":13.79,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-reifenglanz-special-edition-black-beast-effect-reifenpflege_500ml.png?v=1721576232"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-ceramic-quickdetailer-quick-detailer","title":"XTREME Ceramic QuickDetailer Quick-Detailer","description":"\u003ch2\u003eFast ceramic protection between washes — SONAX XTREME Ceramic QuickDetailer\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is a ceramic quick detailer and when do you reach for it? The Ceramic Quick-Detailer from SONAX's XTREME line is a ready-to-use quick detailer with Si-Carbon ceramic protection — it cleans, conditions and seals the paint in a single step, no water and no machine, and works as a fast refresh between regular washes or as the last finishing step after a car wash.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBetween regular car washes, dust, bug splatter and water spots build up on the paint — not always enough for a full wash, but enough to dull the shine. That's exactly where a quick detailer earns its keep: spray, wipe, done. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic QuickDetailer\u003c\/strong\u003e goes a step further than a classic quick detailer: the Si-Carbon technology from the XTREME Ceramic line gives every pass not just cleaning power and gloss, but also a thin ceramic protective layer that keeps the paint surface hydrophobic between washes. In the handy 750 ml format with a spray head, it suits both the home enthusiast and the professional operation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSi-Carbon ceramic protection with every pass — not just cleaning, but sealing.\u003c\/strong\u003e Classic quick detailers clean and visually smooth the paint, but leave no lasting protection behind. The Ceramic QuickDetailer carries Si-Carbon ceramic particles that settle onto the paint as you work it in and build up a hydrophobic protective layer. After every pass the paint isn't just cleaner — it's topped with a fresh layer of protection: water beads off better, dirt grips less, and the time-to-dirt resistance between washes stretches out noticeably.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWaterless-wash function for dusty paint, no water needed.\u003c\/strong\u003e As a waterless-wash stand-in for lightly soiled paint, the Ceramic QuickDetailer is a perfect fit: spray it onto a fresh, fine layer of dust or road film and lift it off with a microfibre, and the lubricating carrier floats the dust particles gently off the paint without scratching. The product's high lubricity protects the paint as you wipe — no dry wiping without enough lube, no scratch risk. One thing matters here: lay down plenty of product and work with a fresh, clean microfibre.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFinishing detailer after the wash for top gloss and drying protection.\u003c\/strong\u003e As the last step after a car wash, sprayed onto still-damp or dried paint and spread with a microfibre, the Ceramic QuickDetailer boosts the gloss, clears water marks left from drying and gives the freshly washed paint a fresh ceramic layer. On cars that already carry a ceramic base coating, a quality ceramic quick detailer makes an ideal topper — it tops up the existing protection and stretches out its hydrophobic effect.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Use the Ceramic QuickDetailer in a cool, shaded spot — never on hot paint in direct sun. On hot panels the product flashes off too fast and leaves streaks that are a pain to wipe away cleanly. For the best gloss after a wash: rough-dry the paint with a drying towel, then spray the Ceramic QuickDetailer onto the nearly dry panel and work it in with a fresh microfibre polishing cloth in circular motions, then buff off with the dry side of the same cloth. The result is a noticeably deeper shine than hand-drying alone. Paired with the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-activeshampoo-autoshampoo\"\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic ActiveShampoo\u003c\/a\u003e, you get a full ceramic care set for regular machine-free car care.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSi-Carbon technology in the Ceramic QuickDetailer — ceramic particles and how the hydrophobicity builds\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic QuickDetailer\u003c\/strong\u003e formula is built on the Si-Carbon technology from the XTREME Ceramic line. Si-Carbon stands for a combination of silicon compounds (Si) and carbon polymers (Carbon) that together work a dual protective effect on the paint. The silicon side forms a chemically reactive bond with the clear-coat surface — it grips better than pure wax or polymer formulas. The carbon side gives the protective layer depth and gloss intensity that classic SiO2 sealants often can't reach on their own.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Si-Carbon combo gives you a protective layer with two measurable properties: a high water contact angle (typically above 100–110°) that throws clear beading on the paint and makes it obvious a layer is there, and a smooth, slick surface where dirt grips less and lets go more easily at the next wash. This lotus-like effect lasts less long with a quick detailer than with a full ceramic coating, but you can keep building it with frequent use: run the Ceramic QuickDetailer at every wash and every quick-clean and you hold the ceramic protection steady between the big sealant intervals.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne thing that matters in practice: which surfaces is the Ceramic QuickDetailer safe on? Basically all painted surfaces on the car (clear coat, metallic, solid colour) — matte paint is explicitly out, since ceramic products can throw unwanted shiny patches on matte finishes. On glass the Ceramic QuickDetailer is OK with limits: it leaves no streaky film and works as a stopgap for dusty windscreens, but it's no replacement for a dedicated glass cleaner once the glass is properly dirty. On plastic trim and high-gloss accents you can use it without worry.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne key property of the quick-detailer formula is its lubricity: the product carries a high enough concentration of lubricity additives that, as you wipe, dust particles don't get dragged scratch-like across the paint. This matters most for waterless-wash use — without enough lube, every dry clean is a scratch risk. The Ceramic QuickDetailer is formulated so that even waterless cleaning of lightly dusty cars throws no micro-marring, as long as you work with a fresh, clean microfibre.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe formula is also tuned to play nice with existing wax, polymer and ceramic sealants. A question that comes up a lot: can a quick detailer with cleaning agents in it strip an existing ceramic sealant? With modern, solvent-free formulas like the XTREME Ceramic QuickDetailer, no — the mild cleaning agents lift dirt, not the ceramic bonding layer. So as a topper over an existing sealant, the Ceramic QuickDetailer is safe to use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the Ceramic QuickDetailer — techniques for waterless cleaning, wet care and finishing\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Ceramic QuickDetailer covers three main use cases that call for different techniques: waterless cleaning (waterless wash) for lightly dusty paint, the wet-care add-on after a car wash, and touch-up use for fresh marks and fingerprints.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor waterless cleaning: spray the Ceramic QuickDetailer evenly onto the panel you're cleaning (4–6 sprays per 50×50 cm), wipe off with a fresh, soft microfibre in straight passes (not circular), then buff with the dry second side of the cloth. A high-quality, dirt-free microfibre is a must here — dried-in dirt in the pile drags scratches. Flip or swap the cloth after every panel, and never use the same soiled area to buff. The Ceramic QuickDetailer handles waterless cleaning up to a medium level of dust — with heavier dirt (rain spots, bugs, fresh brake dust), a conventional wet clean is the safer call.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs a wet-care add-on after the wash, you spray the Ceramic QuickDetailer onto the still slightly damp paint and spread it with a dry microfibre. The moisture helps the product spread and stops it flashing off straight away. You can fold this step right into drying: spray a small area, dry and buff it at once, next panel. Laying down the Ceramic QuickDetailer on damp paint is faster in practice than fully drying then applying — and the gloss depth on damp paint is actually better.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor touch-up jobs (fingerprints on the fender after fuelling up, fresh bug splatter after a motorway run, water spots on the roof after a shower): spray the Ceramic QuickDetailer straight onto the spot, let it dwell 20–30 seconds and lift it off with a fresh cloth. For fresh bug splatter, bump the dwell time to 1–2 minutes — the detailer's cleaning agents lift fresh bug protein before it dries in and chemically etches into the paint. Bug splatter that's dried in over several days should be hit with a dedicated bug remover first, before the quick detailer goes on.\n\n\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eA note for dark paint colours: on black, dark grey and dark blue, streaks and uneven coverage show up more after application than on light cars. Buffing off with the dry side of the microfibre needs extra care on dark paint — don't leave any \"almost dry\" patch standing. If you're unsure on dark cars, finish each panel fully (spray, wipe, buff) before moving to the next. That way you keep every section in view and the streak-free result holds up even on tricky colours.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe Ceramic QuickDetailer in the XTREME Ceramic system — synergies and care routines\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Ceramic QuickDetailer is the maintenance product in the XTREME Ceramic system: while the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-sprayversiegelung-spruehversiegelung\"\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic spray sealant\u003c\/a\u003e builds the base seal for several months and the XTREME Ceramic ActiveShampoo keeps the ceramic base topped up as you wash, the Ceramic QuickDetailer fills the gaps between wash and sealant intervals. Together these three products make a full ceramic care routine with no professional coating gear.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe recommended care routine in the XTREME Ceramic system for home detailers: once every 2–3 months, lay down the XTREME Ceramic spray sealant after the wash (base build-up); at every wash, use the XTREME Ceramic ActiveShampoo (ceramic refresher in the foam step); after every wash or for the quick interim care, reach for the Ceramic QuickDetailer for gloss and protection. This three-step routine runs entirely without professional gear and lets even owners with no deep detailing know-how put down effective, ceramic-based paint care. The system keeps the paint carrying a fresh ceramic protective layer all the time, with no elaborate professional prep.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn cars with a professional ceramic sealant (ceramic coating), the Ceramic QuickDetailer also works well as a topper: it goes easy on the existing seal, tops up the hydrophobic properties and lifts the optical gloss. Worth noting on coated cars: no strongly alkaline cleaners before the quick-detailer step — the Ceramic QuickDetailer needs a neutral to slightly acidic surface for the Si-Carbon particles to grip best. Keep your car on a regular Ceramic QuickDetailer routine and you'll find in practice that a professional coating holds its hydrophobic effect far longer than with patchy care — which saves on prep costs in the long run.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe Ceramic QuickDetailer compared — quick detailers with and without ceramic protection\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX XTREME range has several quick detailers: the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-brilliantshine-detailer-quick-detailer\"\u003eXTREME BrilliantShine Detailer\u003c\/a\u003e as a pure gloss detailer with no ceramic protection, and the Ceramic QuickDetailer with the Si-Carbon ceramic component. The BrilliantShine Detailer is even simpler to use and suits a pure finishing detailer after the wash for cars without a ceramic-based care routine. The Ceramic QuickDetailer is the pick when building protection alongside the gloss is the priority.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCompared with the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-quickdetailer\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE QuickDetailer\u003c\/a\u003e from the pro range: the PROFILINE QuickDetailer is built as a spray sealant in the 5-litre container for non-stop professional use — with stronger protection build-up and a more economical price in the large container. The XTREME Ceramic QuickDetailer in the 750 ml format is the more compact, more manageable size for regular home use and for shops that prefer a smaller stock. The two products pair up nicely in the lineup: the PROFILINE format for the prep work, the XTREME format to grab on the go or to hand to a customer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the SONAX XTREME Ceramic QuickDetailer — planning your use, storage and combinations\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe 750 ml format of the XTREME Ceramic QuickDetailer is rated for 30–50 full vehicle applications — depending on the size of the car and how much you lay down. With sparing touch-up use (just marks and fingerprints), you can stretch the yield a fair bit. For a private owner with one car, a bottle lasts several months depending on how hard you use it. For detailing shops that hand the Ceramic QuickDetailer to customers after a detail, the 750 ml format is ideal to give out as part of a care set — an attractive add-on to the detailing offer that builds customer loyalty at the same time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eStorage: keep the XTREME Ceramic QuickDetailer at room temperature between 5 and 25 °C. Frost can damage the emulsion of the ceramic particles; high temperatures above 40 °C destabilise the formula. A well-sealed bottle keeps easily for 2–3 years with proper storage. Before use, give the bottle a quick shake to spread the ceramic particles evenly — especially if it's stood unused for a while. Keeping it in the car is handy for spur-of-the-moment use — but in summer, not in a closed car parked in the sun, since the cabin temperature climbs fast above 60 °C and puts the product stability at risk.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs a verified SONAX dealer at Detailing1, the XTREME Ceramic QuickDetailer is a permanent fixture in the range. To get started with the XTREME Ceramic care routine, the combo of Ceramic ActiveShampoo and Ceramic QuickDetailer is the way to go — two products that together cover all the key aspects of regular paint care: cleaning with ceramic protection at the wash and a fast refresh between washes. The combo is a proven starter pack for anyone getting into ceramic-based car care without diving straight into a professional ceramic coating — as a first step into the world of ceramic detailing, these two products offer very good value for noticeable gains in gloss and protection.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"750ml","offer_id":49344950632783,"sku":"D1-SNX-268400","price":12.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-quickdetailer-quick-detailer_750ml.png?v=1721572409"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-cockpitreiniger-matt-effect-innenraumpflege","title":"XTREME Cockpit Cleaner \"Matt-Effect\" Interior Care","description":"\u003ch2\u003eCleaning and sealing a matte cockpit — with the SONAX XTREME CockpitReiniger Matt-Effect\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX XTREME CockpitReiniger Matt-Effect do? This silicone-free interior dressing cleans, conditions and seals every plastic surface inside the car — with no high gloss, antistatic, dust-repellent, and built specifically for matte textures and Soft-Touch surfaces.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you've ever hit your matte dashboard with the wrong cockpit spray, you know how it ends: an oily, shiny surface that throws sun back off the windscreen and pulls in even more dust after a couple of days than it had before. That's not a cleaning problem — it's a wrong-product problem. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME CockpitReiniger Matt-Effect\u003c\/strong\u003e was built for exactly this: an interior dressing that treats matte plastics the way they want to be treated — no high gloss, no distracting reflections, an antistatic protective layer and a pleasantly fresh scent. The result is an interior that looks fresh because it is fresh, not because it's been polished.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eKeeps the original matte look.\u003c\/strong\u003e Modern cockpits with fine-grained dash panels and Soft-Touch surfaces need care that doesn't lay down a gloss film. The Matt-Effect seals the surface while keeping the original fine texture — without touching the manufacturer's matte finish. That's not a side detail: a bright gloss film on the dash means reflections in your line of sight and a cockpit that no longer looks factory.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eAntistatic and dust-repellent in one step.\u003c\/strong\u003e Interior plastics build up a static charge and pull dust and fine particles straight in. The CockpitReiniger Matt-Effect reliably stops that static build-up — and with it the quick re-soiling. A cockpit that attracts less dust after cleaning stays clean longer. That stretches out how often you clean and, over time, spares the surface all the extra wiping.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSilicone- and solvent-free, so it's safe to use.\u003c\/strong\u003e Silicone can gum up surfaces over time and cause trouble with any later paintwork. Solvents attack plastics, Soft-Touch coatings especially. The silicone- and solvent-free formulation doesn't just protect the surface — it's also fine on more sensitive materials like wood trim, with no risk to the finish.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Never spray the CockpitReiniger straight onto the surface — least of all near screens, air vents or switches. Put the product onto a SONAX MicrofaserPflegePad or a lint-free microfibre cloth and work the panels down evenly with that. It keeps overspray off sensitive spots and lays the product down more evenly, with no streaking. Let the surface flash off for a moment afterwards — that's when the protective layer reaches its full antistatic effect.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eMatte interior plastic care — how the Matt-Effect technology works\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe difference between a normal cockpit spray and the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME CockpitReiniger Matt-Effect\u003c\/strong\u003e isn't in how it cleans — it's in the sealing component. Normal cockpit sprays, older formulations especially, often carry silicones or oily carriers that leave the cleaned surface with a silky or high-gloss sheen. Short term that reads as \"freshly dressed\", but it comes with a few downsides: silicones can trap dust, oils turn into sticky residue over time, and the shine gets in the way on modern dashboards that leave the factory with a matte texture.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Matt-Effect formulation runs on a water base with no silicones and no solvents. The sealing component is a thin, transparent protective layer that settles into the fine surface texture of the plastic without changing how it looks. The grain stays, the matteness stays — but the surface is now protected and carries an antistatic charge. That's why the cockpit doesn't look \"polished\" after treatment, just clean and cared-for — exactly the way it came from the maker.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe antistatic effect is what really shows day-to-day. Plastics — Soft-Touch surfaces above all — are naturally electrostatic. They pull fine dust out of the air, often within minutes of cleaning. The antistatic side of the Matt-Effect neutralises that charge and keeps particles from grabbing hold of the surface so easily. The difference is one you can measure: a dash treated with Matt-Effect stays clean noticeably longer than one you just wiped over with a damp cloth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Matt-Effect works on wood trim too. Real or faux wood inside the cabin reacts badly to harsh cleaners or silicone-based products — the silicone-free formulation rules that risk out. And the matte protection sits better, visually, against the often matte or satin wood surfaces in modern cars than any high-gloss spray would.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne benefit that gets overlooked is reflection control. A dashboard carrying a gloss film bounces sunlight up onto the windscreen — a safety problem you can bring on yourself with the wrong cockpit care. The Matt-Effect designs that out: no silicones, no shine, no reflections. The result isn't just better to look at, it matters for safety too.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the CockpitReiniger Matt-Effect the right way — step by step\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt's an easy job, but a couple of details make the difference. Give the bottle a quick shake before the first go so all the components mix well. Turn the nozzle to the spray setting. Now lay the product onto a SONAX MicrofaserPflegePad or a soft, lint-free cloth — not straight onto the surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThen work the panels down evenly in small sections. Piling more on doesn't clean any better — it just tends to leave streaks. A thin, even film on the pad is plenty. Let the treated areas flash off for a moment afterwards — the protective layer and the antistatic effect build as it dries. No buffing needed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne important point: don't use the CockpitReiniger on hot surfaces — in direct sun or after a long drive. The product dries too fast then and can streak. In the shade or on a cooled-down car you'll get a far more even result. Keep the CockpitReiniger off leather, the steering wheel, pedals and glass, as well as screens, radios and sat-navs — those surfaces and materials are too different from plastic.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor stubborn grime, do a pre-clean with a stronger interior cleaner first — more on that in the comparison section. The Matt-Effect isn't a stain remover, it's a caring sealant. A thorough pre-clean followed by the Matt-Effect treatment gives you the best results: deep-clean first, then protect and seal. That two-stage approach keeps cleaning and care cleanly apart — the cleaner can be more aggressive because the delicate sealant only goes on in the second step. So nothing holds the cleaning power back with too much dressing, and no harsh cleaner strips the sealant straight off again.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSame principle for wood trim. Lightly dampen the pad, apply evenly, let it dry. No dwell time, no aftercare. The product is ready to go from the off and the effort per application stays minimal — a clear plus for regular upkeep cleaning inside the car. Used regularly, every two to three weeks, the care stacks up over time: each treatment builds the protective layer and refreshes the antistatic effect, so the cleaning effort per session gradually drops.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSoft-Touch, dashboard, wood — where the Matt-Effect plays to its strengths\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA modern car interior is a mix of materials: hard plastic, Soft-Touch areas, trim in brushed aluminium or faux wood, sometimes real wood. That leaves every care product with one question — is it genuinely fine on all of these surfaces, or only part of them? The CockpitReiniger Matt-Effect is made for every plastic surface and wood trim — explicitly including Soft-Touch areas, which are the most delicate category of all.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSoft-Touch surfaces have a soft, rubbery coating that feels good under the hand but reacts badly to solvents and silicone-based products. The wrong care leaves you with discolouration, a tacky feel or the coating slowly peeling off. Because the Matt-Effect is silicone- and solvent-free, that risk drops out completely. The matte look of the Soft-Touch coating stays put, and the antistatic layer works especially well on exactly these materials, since Soft-Touch plastics are among the biggest dust magnets in the cabin.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDashboards with a fine grain — the kind fitted in most mid-range and upper-class cars — get the most out of the Matt-Effect formula. The sealant settles into the grain without filling it in or changing how it looks. The original appearance stays 100 % intact. At the same time, the little recesses in the grain where dust and dirt love to settle are harder to reach after treatment — the antistatic effect cuts down particle build-up even in those hard-to-reach micro areas.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDoor cards, centre consoles and hard-plastic storage bins are ideal spots too. The centre console and door-handle areas in particular are high-touch contact surfaces that need regular care. Here the Matt-Effect's protective layer builds a barrier against dirt working its way in and makes the next clean easier — dirt clings less to the sealed surface and comes off with less effort. In cars used regularly by several people — family cars, company vehicles or hire cars — that protection against re-soiling on the contact zones is a real everyday win. The antistatic effect also cuts down fingerprints and skin oils settling on matte plastic.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCockpit cleaners compared — Matt-Effect, KunststoffDetailer and Auto-Innen-Reiniger\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX XTREME range has several interior products that complement each other. Understanding the differences helps you pick the right one for the job at hand. First, some context: the CockpitReiniger Matt-Effect is primarily a \u003cem\u003ecare-and-sealing product\u003c\/em\u003e for plastic surfaces — not an aggressive cleaner for a heavily soiled interior.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/en\/sonax-xtreme-autoinnenreiniger-innenraumreiniger\"\u003eXTREME Auto-Innen-Reiniger\u003c\/a\u003e is the stronger-cleaning counterpart. It pulls grease marks, drink residue and deep-set dirt out of plastic surfaces and fabrics — with a surfactant-based cleaning formula the Matt-Effect doesn't have. For a heavily soiled interior the Auto-Innen-Reiniger is first choice; once it's clean, the Matt-Effect is the logical second step for care and sealing. Run the two together and you cover the whole care workflow: clean it properly, then protect it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/en\/sonax-xtreme-kunststoffdetailer-innen-aussen-kunststoffpflege\"\u003eXTREME KunststoffDetailer Innen+Außen\u003c\/a\u003e is an all-rounder for every plastic part on the whole car — inside and out, engine bay included. It conditions and protects plastic and brings back lightly weathered surfaces. Inside the cabin it's a solid alternative when you want one product for all the plastic. The difference from the Matt-Effect: the KunststoffDetailer leaves a light shine — often wanted outside and in the engine bay, but not always welcome on matte surfaces inside. For genuinely matte dashboards and Soft-Touch surfaces, the Matt-Effect is the sharper choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs an upgrade for cars with higher demands on plastic protection, the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-kunststoff-versiegelung\"\u003eXTREME Ceramic Kunststoff-Versiegelung\u003c\/a\u003e is worth a look — a ceramic coating for plastic that lasts longer than a caring sealant. It takes more work and more prep, but the protection holds up longer. The Matt-Effect is your answer for regular upkeep; the Ceramic sealant for the intensive base treatment.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying interior care — who the SONAX XTREME CockpitReiniger is worth it for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME CockpitReiniger Matt-Effect\u003c\/strong\u003e is the right product for anyone who wants to care for their car's interior without changing the matte look of the surfaces. That goes especially for drivers of modern cars with fine-grained dashboards, Soft-Touch areas and matte trim — so pretty much any car from the last ten to fifteen years.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you've been working with a conventional cockpit spray and notice the dash shining, gathering dust or dirtying up again fast, the Matt-Effect is a straight upgrade. The antistatic effect isn't a marketing line, it's a solid everyday advantage: treat your interior every two to three weeks with the Matt-Effect and you'll notice the cleaning intervals stretch out — less dust clings, and the dirt that's there lifts off more easily. On top of that, the protective layer builds a slightly stronger barrier with each application. It's not the linear build-up of a ceramic coating, but over weeks of regular use there's a noticeable difference from a one-off treatment — the interior simply stays clean longer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor valeters and detailers, the CockpitReiniger Matt-Effect is a standard in interior work. It gives fast, repeatable results with no streaks and no risk to sensitive surfaces. The 500 ml spray bottle makes it practical for mobile jobs and gets you plenty of interior treatments per bottle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe combination that makes sense for a full interior job: clean first with the XTREME Auto-Innen-Reiniger, then seal and protect with the Matt-Effect. For cars with high demands on durability, the XTREME Ceramic Kunststoff-Versiegelung can go on as a base seal, kept up afterwards with regular Matt-Effect care. This system gives you cared-for plastic surfaces that look better long term and are easier to keep clean.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat makes the XTREME CockpitReiniger Matt-Effect an easy recommendation for anyone who cares about a well-kept interior — no compromise on how the surfaces look and no risk to delicate materials. Easy to use, quick to show results and fine on all the usual plastic surfaces: this is interior care the way it should work day-to-day. Once you switch to a product that genuinely respects the matteness of your surfaces, you won't want a glossy cockpit spray back.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":49344971800911,"sku":"D1-SNX-283241","price":9.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-xtreme-cockpitreiniger-matt-effect-innenraumpflege.png?v=1721572898"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-brilliantshine-detailer-quick-detailer","title":"XTREME \"BrilliantShine\" Detailer Quick-Detailer","description":"\u003ch2\u003eDeep gloss in minutes — SONAX XTREME \"BrilliantShine\" Detailer as a quick detailer and sealant booster\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX XTREME \"BrilliantShine\" Detailer do? This polymer quick detailer cleans, protects and seals in one step — with instant deep gloss, especially on dark paint, and 6–8 weeks of protection.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBetween two washes, dust, fingerprints, light smears and water spots build up on the paint — too little to justify a full wash, but enough to visibly dull the shine. That's exactly where a quick detailer earns its keep: sprayed on fast, wiped off straight away, and the paint pops like it was just washed. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME \"BrilliantShine\" Detailer\u003c\/strong\u003e goes well beyond a plain wipe-down product: the polymer tech lays down a protective layer at the same time, one that lasts 6–8 weeks and tops up your existing sealant. You've got a car sorted in under five minutes — no machine, no faff, and a result that jumps out at you on dark paint in particular.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCleaning and protection in one step — no water, no machine.\u003c\/strong\u003e The detailer pairs a mild cleaning action with a polymer sealant: light dirt, dust and water spots get pulled off the surface while a thin protective film goes down on the paint at the same time. That saves time and takes a separate care step off your list.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eA sealant booster for protection you already have.\u003c\/strong\u003e On cars already running a wax sealant or a ceramic coating, the detailer noticeably stretches the protection. Every pass lays down an extra polymer layer that settles over the existing sealant and freshens up the protection.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSafe on paint, rubber and plastic — matte finishes and wraps included.\u003c\/strong\u003e The detailer has been tested on matte paint and wrapped cars, and it does the right thing there: it brings gloss back on high-gloss paint and keeps an even look on matte surfaces without touching the matte effect. Because it plays nicely with rubber and plastic, it works as an all-round interior and exterior detailer.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Never spray the detailer straight onto the paint — always spray it onto a clean microfibre cloth and then work it across the panel in even passes. That stops overdosing and blotchy streaks. A second dry cloth for the final wipe brings out that last bit of gloss. On dark paint especially, the difference between the first and second cloth is easy to see — the second cloth pulls the full depth out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePolymer tech in a quick detailer — how cleaning and sealing work in one product\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA quick detailer sounds simple — spray and wipe — but there's more chemistry behind it than you'd first guess. The tricky part is combining two jobs that basically pull against each other: cleaning (lifting and holding dirt) and sealing (laying down a protective film and getting it to stick). Standard cleaners and sealants get in each other's way — cleaners strip sealant residue, and sealants seal dirt particles right in. The answer lies in the formulation: the polymers used in the quick detailer do two things. They wrap around dirt particles and hold them off the paint (the cleaning side), and at the same time they bond to the clear coat and form a protective layer there (the sealing side). It sounds contradictory, but it works because the action is sequential: as you apply and wipe, the dirt particles get lifted first and left on the microfibre cloth. The polymers still on the paint then have free bonding sites that latch onto the clear coat. What you're left with is clean paint carrying a fresh layer of protection — all in one step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe visual effect stands out most on dark paint, because the polymer layer very evenly fills the tiny irregularities in the clear coat and smooths out how light hits it. The light reflects more uniformly — the paint looks deeper, richer and more brilliant. On light paint the effect is similar but less dramatic, simply because the contrast between treated and untreated is smaller.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThose 6–8 weeks of durability sound like nothing next to a ceramic coating's 12 or 15 months. But it's not a fair comparison — a quick detailer goes on in 5 minutes, a ceramic coating takes hours of prep. Put in 5 minutes every 6–8 weeks and you get the same lasting protection as a long-term coating — the difference being you keep renewing the protective film rather than letting it wear away on its own. In practice this active approach even has an edge: each new layer evens out micro-wear and keeps the paint uniformly protected. A ceramic coating that gets too thin protects worse than you'd think; a regularly topped-up polymer detailer holds a steady level.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eGetting the most from the BrilliantShine Detailer — the perfect between-wash routine\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe quick detailer isn't meant to replace a wash — it works alongside one. It's ideal on an already-washed car: after the wash as a finishing step that builds gloss and protection at once. Or between washes, when you want to clear off light dust and water spots without washing the whole car. The car shouldn't be heavily soiled for this — brake dust, coarse grime and sandy grit shouldn't be dragged across the paint with a quick detailer, since that can leave fine scratches. For that state you need a pre-wash first. As a beginner-friendly care product the detailer really shines, because it's forgiving: too much won't cause any lasting damage — just wipe it again with a second cloth. Too little gives a slightly weaker result, but no harm done. That low margin for error makes it the ideal first step into active paint care for anyone who's never touched a care product.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOne particularly effective move: treat the car with the detailer straight after the wash while it's still damp or just barely dried. The moisture left on the paint helps the polymers spread evenly and cuts the risk of streaks. Pairing a wash with a detailer finish gives a result clearly above a plain wash — and it's done in the same time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA typical care routine with the detailer looks like this: wash the car, dry the water off with a good microfibre drying towel — then spray detailer onto a separate clean microfibre cloth and work panel by panel: bonnet, roof, boot lid, sides. Each panel takes 30–60 seconds. The whole car is done in under 10 minutes, drying included. That's a time commitment even busy car owners can realistically manage, and it keeps the car looking good for weeks. Keep on top of it regularly and you'll need a heavy wash far less often — another time saving that adds up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAn often underrated use is the interior: the detailer works on the dashboard, door cards and cockpit plastics too. The paint- and plastic-safe formula leaves an even, light sheen on interior plastics with no streaks and no greasy film. That makes it an all-rounder for the whole car, inside and out — one product for both. It's built primarily for exterior paint, of course, but its broad compatibility means you can reach for it flexibly whenever interior plastics need a quick freshen-up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere it fits — when the quick detailer delivers the most\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX XTREME \"BrilliantShine\" Detailer is dialled in for several situations: as a wash finish after a regular car wash; as a between-wash refresh after 2–3 weeks, when you want to clear off dust and light smears; as a sealant booster on cars already carrying wax or ceramic protection; as a quick lift before a car meet, show or dealer handover, when the car needs to look sharp in a hurry. The 750 ml bottle stretches to 15–20 uses per car, which is very economical and good value for regular users. It's especially cost-effective when regular quick-detailer care means the car needs a full deep clean less often — detail quickly every 2–3 weeks and you hold the car in a state that pushes intensive reconditioning well down the road. In commercial use — say, valeters using it as a finishing step after reconditioning — the detailer gives a fast result that presents the car for handover. Here the amount per car stays very low, which pushes the economics even further.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor convertible owners a quick detailer is especially relevant: a soft top attracts dirt and moisture, but the body is more exposed than on a hardtop too. Regular detailer passes keep the paint in good shape even without garage-heavy care. It's handy for owners of classics and older cars as well: these get driven less often and stand for longer, which leads to dust build-up and water spots. A quick detailer pass before the next outing gets the car looking presentable without a full wash.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eQuick detailer comparison — BrilliantShine vs. PROFILINE Quick-Detailer vs. Protect+Shine\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX range has several detailer products with different focuses. The XTREME \"BrilliantShine\" Detailer is clearly aimed at the end-user market: easy to use, good value, broad compatibility. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-brilliantshine-detailer-spruehversiegelung\"\u003ePROFILINE BrilliantShine Detailer\u003c\/a\u003e is the professional version in a 5-litre container — for high-throughput shops running the same product in larger volumes. Both products share similar formulations, but the PROFILINE is set up for commercial dosing rigs and systems. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-quickdetailer\"\u003ePROFILINE QuickDetailer\u003c\/a\u003e is another professional detailer from the PROFILINE line with a specific focus on pro use. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-protect-shine-hochglanz-versiegelung\"\u003eXTREME Protect+Shine\u003c\/a\u003e sealant, on the other hand, isn't a quick detailer in the real sense — it's a full paint sealant lasting up to 6 months: more effort, more protection, longer durability. Which product for whom? BrilliantShine Detailer for regular quick care between washes. Protect+Shine for the seasonal full seal. Combine the two and you get the best overall result: Protect+Shine for the long-term base, BrilliantShine Detailer for keeping the gloss up day to day.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAnother comparison that comes up a lot in practice: quick detailer vs. spray sealant. Spray sealants go onto damp paint after the wash and offer comparable or slightly better durability than a quick detailer. The difference is flexibility: spray sealants only work right after the wash on damp paint. A quick detailer can go on any time — on dry paint between washes too. That makes the detailer more versatile in practice, even if the pure sealing performance of a spray sealant can be a touch better. Use both and you get the best of both worlds: spray sealant after every wash, quick detailer for the fast refresh in between.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying advice — who the BrilliantShine Detailer is the first choice for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX XTREME \"BrilliantShine\" Detailer is the ideal pick for anyone who wants to keep their car in top shape without spending hours on it every other day. For owners of dark cars especially — black, dark blue, dark grey — the quick detailer is an essential tool, because those colours are particularly touchy about smears and dust, and the detailer's effect shows up most clearly here. The 750 ml size with 15–20 uses is very good value and enough for one to two seasons at a bimonthly pace. Each use only takes a few sprays — the key is going easy on the dose, which also keeps streaking down. Overdo it and you just create more haze and more rework. The detailer slots into any boot no problem and can be used on the spot when you're out — after a long day's drive, before an important meeting, or just when the car deserves a proper shine again. With the SONAX XTREME \"BrilliantShine\" Detailer you've always got the right product within reach.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you're weighing up the buy, keep this in mind: paint-care products that get used regularly and give fast, visible results deliver the most real-world value — because they actually get used, rather than vanishing into a cupboard after one go. A product that goes on in 5 minutes has a much better shot at being used regularly than an elaborate coating system that takes hours. Regular use is the key to lasting, well-kept paint — and a quick detailer like this one is exactly what makes that realistic. At Detailing1 the product is available together with compatible microfibre cloths and other accessories that make sure you get the best from it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOne last note for anyone who's never done active paint care before: the quick detailer is the ideal way in. No complicated kit, no learning curve, no risk of getting it wrong — just buy it, use it, and watch. Once you've seen what regular quick-detailer care does for a car's paint, you won't want to go without it. And if it gives you a taste for more paint care, Detailing1 has the full range for every need — from simple quick care right up to professional ceramic coatings. Starting with a quick detailer is always the right first step: easy, fast and with a visible result that makes you want more. Good paint care doesn't have to be complicated — and with the right product it isn't. Three sprays, two cloths, five minutes: that's all it takes to keep a car's paint regularly cared for and protected for the long haul. That saves time, and it holds the car's value over the years too — because well-kept paint ages slower and looks far better over the years than paint that's been left to fend for itself.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"750ml","offer_id":49344994771279,"sku":"D1-SNX-287400","price":13.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-xtreme-brilliantshine-detailer-quick-detailer_750ml.png?v=1721573372"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-reifenpfleger-matt-effect-reifenpflege","title":"XTREME Tyre Care \"Matt-Effect\" tyre dressing","description":"\u003ch2\u003eA naturally matte finish for tyres — SONAX XTREME Tyre Care \"Matt-Effect\"\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat sets a Matt-Effect tyre dressing apart from a classic gloss one? It cares for the rubber with the matte, satin look of a factory-fresh tyre instead of high gloss — perfect for cars where an over-the-top tyre shine looks fake or just doesn't fit the overall style of the vehicle.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eClassic tyre dressings lay down an oily high-gloss finish on the rubber that leaves the tyre looking almost painted once it's on. For certain cars — sporty ones on wider rubber, or show cars — that's exactly the look you're after. But for most modern production cars, high-gloss tyre care reads as unnatural: a brand-new tyre isn't glossy at all, it has a matte, satin-like surface. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Tyre Care \"Matt-Effect\"\u003c\/strong\u003e nails that factory look — a clean, deep-black tyre with rich contrast that looks fresh off the assembly line, with no fake shine. In a 500 ml format for regular use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eA matte satin finish for that natural factory-fresh look on the tyre.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Matt-Effect formula is built to throw no highlight once it's on. What you get is a deep-black, even tyre with no high-gloss shimmer — the look of a freshly fitted production tyre. If you want a car to read as natural at handovers, on a photoshoot or in day-to-day care, this is the tyre look to reach for.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eUV protection and moisture protection for long-term tyre care.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Matt-Effect dressing doesn't stop at looks: the formula packs in care agents that shield the rubber from UV and drying out. UV and ozone are the main drivers of tyre ageing — the grey discolouration and cracking in the sidewall you see creep in on neglected tyres as they get older. A dressing you keep on top of slows that ageing right down and keeps the rubber supple.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eA spray format for quick, even coverage across the whole sidewall.\u003c\/strong\u003e The spray on the 500 ml bottle lets you cover the whole sidewall fast and evenly, no sponge or applicator needed. An even mist from 20–30 cm out wets the tyre surface completely in one pass. For pro detailing operations turning out lots of cars a day, the spray is a good deal quicker than working it in with a sponge or cloth.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e For a spot-on Matt-Effect result, clean the tyre thoroughly and let it dry completely before you spray. On a wet tyre the dressing spreads unevenly and leaves patches instead of a clean matte look. Once it's cleaned and dry, mist the spray evenly onto the sidewall from 20–30 cm out and let it flash off for 2–3 minutes — don't wipe it. If any overspray lands on the rim or the paint, wipe it off straight away with a microfibre cloth before the dressing dries in. On cars with really wide tyres, work panel by panel: spray each side separately and give it a moment before the car gets driven off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHow the Matt-Effect tyre dressing is built — matting, UV protection and rubber care\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eTyre Care \"Matt-Effect\"\u003c\/strong\u003e blends rubber-care agents, matting agents and UV absorbers. The matting agents in the formula are special particles that, once the dressing on the tyre surface has dried, build a rough, light-scattering micro-structure — instead of bouncing light back (gloss), they scatter it in every direction (matte). That gives you the signature satin-matte look, close to an untreated tyre straight off the shelf.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe rubber-care components of the dressing sink into the rubber structure and feed the elastomer with agents that keep it supple. Dry, brittle rubber cracks in the sidewall under load and loses its elasticity early. Sidewalls you dress regularly stay flexible longer, show less grey haze and look fresh and new even on older tyres. The Matt-Effect works best on good-quality dark rubber — on very cheap tyres with a lighter compound the result can come out less deeply black.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAn often underrated difference between cheap dressings and quality formulas is how they behave in the wet: cheap oil-based dressings wash off the tyre fast in the rain and leave oily streaks on the brake calliper and pad, which can knock back braking performance for a while. The XTREME formula is built to hold onto the rubber, and in normal rain it lasts a lot longer than oil-based alternatives. The matte look holds up largely intact even after a downpour, as long as the product had fully cured.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe dressing's UV protection matters most for cars that spend a lot of time outdoors. UV breaks the rubber's polymer chains and triggers ozone cracking on the sidewall — one of the most common reasons tyres age out with plenty of tread still on them. A dressing you apply regularly builds a UV-absorbing protective layer that shields the tyre surface from direct UV.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eApplying the Tyre Care \"Matt-Effect\" — prep, application and durability\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eApplying the Matt-Effect dressing comes down to a few steps: clean the tyre, dry it, spray it and let it set. The cleaning step is the one that matters: old dressing residue, wax and grease patches on the sidewall stop the fresh dressing soaking in evenly. A simple wheel cleaner or APC does the job for prep; with heavy oil or wax residue, reach for a degreaser before you dress the tyre.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOnce it's cleaned and fully dry, apply the spray evenly onto the sidewall. Make sure you also wet the transition from sidewall to tread evenly — dirt tends to collect there and throws the look off. After spraying, let it set for 3–5 minutes. In that time the dressing sinks into the rubber and the matting agents form the surface structure you're after. Don't move the car in that window — otherwise still-wet product spreads onto the brake calliper and rim.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you dress your tyres regularly, you save yourself a lot of tyre-care work down the line: cared-for rubber takes cleaner better than dried-out, roughed-up rubber, and the matte look lasts longer on a well-kept tyre than on a neglected one. A quick monthly care session takes just a few minutes and keeps the tyre in good shape long-term — a lot less hassle than the occasional deep clean on neglected tyres. Owners who get into that rhythm keep fresh-looking tyres with barely any time spent.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHow long the Matt-Effect dressing holds on the tyre depends on the weather: in normal road use the matte look lasts one to two weeks before rain, dust and tyre wear knock it back and a fresh coat makes sense. On show or exhibition cars with no normal road use, the look holds a good deal longer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the Tyre Care \"Matt-Effect\" earns its keep — handover, photography and showroom\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Matt-Effect dressing is the go-to product for car handovers at the dealership: a car handed over with cared-for tyres in a natural factory-fresh look leaves a stronger impression on the customer than one with over-glossed sidewalls. The matte, deep black of the tyres underlines the attention the car got during prep — without signalling that it's been overdone.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor cars going into storage, a tyre dressing matters even more: tyres left standing over winter or several months dry out and develop weather cracks in the sidewall. A dressing keeps the rubber moist while the car sits and stops it drying out early. If you're putting a car away for winter, clean the tyres first and treat them with the dressing — that protects the rubber for the whole storage period and means the tyres are still in good shape come spring.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor photographing cars for listings or dealer websites, the Matt-Effect look clearly beats gloss dressings: glossy tyres bounce back flash and daylight, which throws ugly reflections onto the sidewall in photos. Matte tyres absorb light evenly and come out neutral, deep black in shots — they underline the car's silhouette without becoming the eye-catcher themselves.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSONAX XTREME Tyre Care \"Matt-Effect\" head to head — matte versus gloss\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTwo looks sit opposite each other in the SONAX tyre-care range: the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-reifenglanz-wet-look-reifenpflege\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE ReifenGlanz \"Wet-Look\"\u003c\/a\u003e for maximum high gloss plus the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-reifenglanzspray-wet-look-reifenpflege\"\u003eSONAX XTREME ReifenGlanzSpray \"Wet-Look\"\u003c\/a\u003e as the consumer option for maximum high gloss, and the XTREME Tyre Care \"Matt-Effect\" for the natural factory-fresh look. Both lines care for the rubber and protect against UV — the only difference is the look you get once it's on.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother comparison point for pro operations: consumer-format dressings (500 ml aerosol) work well for one-off cars, but for operations with high car throughput, larger containers make more economic sense. For businesses that regularly finish lots of cars with tyre care, the smart move is combining the consumer aerosol for individual customer cars with a concentrate dressing for batch work across several cars at once.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eChoosing between matte and gloss is a question of style, dialled in to the car type and what the customer wants. Sports-car enthusiasts often go for the Wet-Look gloss that shows the tyres are freshly cared for. Owners who prefer a low-key, professional finish pick the Matt-Effect. For dealer presentation and handover, the Matt-Effect is usually the more professional call, since it gives a more natural overall look.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the SONAX XTREME Tyre Care \"Matt-Effect\" — use and recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe 500 ml format is enough, with regular use, for a fleet of 5–10 cars a month. Doing all four tyres per car takes about 15–25 ml — depending on tyre size. Small-car tyres (175\/65 R15) take less than SUV tyres (255\/55 R19). The spray format is ideal for quick single-car work; if you're doing lots of cars at once, decant the product into a pump sprayer or foam sprayer for even faster application.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA tip for operations finishing lots of cars at once: clean all the tyres first, then spray every car in turn with the dressing, and only then send them out. That way every car gets the full set time without individual cars having to wait. This batch approach is more efficient than going car by car and makes sure no car hits the road with dressing that hasn't fully soaked in yet.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs a verified SONAX dealer, Detailing1 stocks the XTREME Tyre Care \"Matt-Effect\". For detailing operations that want to offer both matte and gloss dressings depending on what the customer wants, keeping both on the shelf makes sense — the \"Matt-Effect\" for standard handovers and the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-reifenglanzspray-wet-look-reifenpflege\"\u003eSONAX XTREME ReifenGlanzSpray \"Wet-Look\"\u003c\/a\u003e for customers who set particular store by a glossy tyre look.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":49345242628431,"sku":"D1-SNX-256241","price":12.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-xtreme-reifenpfleger-matt-effect-reifenpflege_500ml.png?v=1721577019"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-brilliantwax-1-politur-wachsversiegelung","title":"XTREME BrilliantWax 1 Polish with Wax Sealant","description":"\u003ch2\u003ePolishing and Sealing in One Step for Brilliant High Gloss — SONAX XTREME BrilliantWax 1 in Practice\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is the difference between a polish with wax sealant and a pure polish? A combination of polish and wax sealant lightly abrades the paint, eliminates fine surface blemishes, and simultaneously leaves a protective wax layer — two work steps in one product application.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eVehicle paint loses its original shine over time due to micro-scratches, UV exposure, and oxidation of the clear coat surface. Regular polish care restores this shine — and if a protective layer is built up at the same time, the effort is particularly efficient. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME BrilliantWax 1\u003c\/strong\u003e is a polish with integrated wax sealant in a 500 ml can, which brightens paint surfaces in one step, creates deep gloss, and seals them with a wax layer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePolish and Seal in one step for efficient paint care.\u003c\/strong\u003e BrilliantWax 1 combines a mild abrasive action to remove fine dullness with an integrated wax sealant. Those who do not want to perform an additional sealing step after polishing save time without having to forego the protective effect of a wax layer.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMild abrasiveness for regular care intervals without excessive paint removal.\u003c\/strong\u003e The abrasive particle size of BrilliantWax 1 is designed for regular application — not for a one-time correction of deep scratches. For annual or semi-annual care polishes that are intended to maintain the gloss level, this is the right abrasive grade. Too aggressive polishes with regular application would reduce the clear coat thickness in the long run.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eApplicable by hand and machine for flexible use.\u003c\/strong\u003e BrilliantWax 1 can be applied both by hand with a sponge or pad and mechanically with an eccentric polishing machine. By hand, the application is direct and uncomplicated; mechanically, a more even distribution can be achieved on larger surfaces, and manual effort is saved when working on the entire vehicle.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePractical tip from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e BrilliantWax 1 delivers the best results on thoroughly cleaned and decontaminated paint. Apply the product to a slightly moistened foam pad — a dry pad leads to uneven application and increased product consumption. Allow the product to soften briefly before polishing it off: For machine application, an exposure time of 30 seconds is sufficient before the second polishing pass for polishing begins.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePolish-Wax Technology in BrilliantWax 1 — how abrasive and sealing components work together\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA combi-polish like BrilliantWax 1 contains two functional components: abrasives and wax sealant. The abrasives are fine enough to mechanically remove superficial dullness and micro-scratches in the clear coat without deeply affecting the paint structure. After polishing off, the wax component remains as a thin, protective film on the surface, deepening the gloss and protecting the paint surface from water, dust, and light dirt.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe main difference to pure polishes lies in the finishing phase: After a pure polish, the paint is bare and unprotected — a separate sealant must follow before the vehicle is exposed to weather or moisture. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-brilliantwax-1-politur-wachsversiegelung\"\u003eXTREME BrilliantWax 1\u003c\/a\u003e includes this step in the same product application. This is not a compromise on sealing quality, as long as the frequency of application remains moderate and a high-performance sealant with a long service life is not required.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWax-based sealants have the advantage that they are very easy to apply and polish off, create a warm, natural shine, and harmonize with practically all paints and colors. Synthetic waxes, as used in BrilliantWax 1, combine the classic advantages of natural wax with improved temperature resistance and more uniform layer formation. The result is a surface that shimmers silkily, reliably repels water, and allows dust and light dirt to adhere less — all properties that facilitate the next wash and keep the paint in better condition between care intervals.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe wax component in BrilliantWax 1 is designed for short to medium service lives. Depending on exposure, vehicle use, and weather conditions, the protective effect lasts several weeks to a few months — longer for garaged or lightly used vehicles. For vehicle owners who regularly treat their vehicle with BrilliantWax 1 — for example, quarterly — continuous protection is built up, keeping the paint in good condition in the long term.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAn important technical point concerns silicone freedom. For workshop vehicles or vehicles that are to be painted afterwards, it is important not to use silicone-containing care products that impair paint adhesion during rework. The user should check the product data sheet if BrilliantWax 1 is used before a planned painting.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe optimal application temperature is between 10 and 30 degrees Celsius. Below 10 degrees, the viscosity of the product increases, which makes polishing difficult; above 30 degrees, the wax layer dries too quickly, which can lead to stubborn streaks. Those who polish on hot summer days should place the vehicle in the shade beforehand and ensure a cool surface. Polishing in the garage with closed doors or early in the morning before the heat of the day delivers reproducibly better, more consistent results than working directly in the midday sun.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eApplication of BrilliantWax 1 — Step-by-Step Workflow for Optimal Results\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBefore polishing, a thorough wash is mandatory: Loose dirt particles on the paint surface act as an abrasive during polishing and create scratches instead of removing them. After washing, an optional clay treatment or iron remover treatment can free the surface from embedded contaminants that would prevent a clean polishing result. This preparation is the difference between a good and an excellent polishing result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eEspecially after the winter season, thorough decontamination is recommended: Brake dust, road salt, and tar splashes penetrate deeply into the paint surface and cannot be completely removed by washing alone. An iron remover chemically dissolves metallic deposits, a clay treatment mechanically removes embedded particles. Only on such a prepared surface does BrilliantWax 1 unleash its full polishing effect — the abrasive particles grip evenly without embedded particles that would create scratches, and the wax adheres cleanly to the freshly polished clear coat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eApply BrilliantWax 1 in small quantities to a polishing pad or applicator sponge. Work on a limited area — one panel at a time — until the product has dried slightly and can be polished off. The correct amount can be recognized: Too much product leads to difficult polishability and wasted product without additional effect; too little product dries too quickly and can leave wiping residues. As a guide: For a single panel such as a hood or driver's door, about a hazelnut-sized amount on the pad is sufficient. Those who dose sparingly save product and simultaneously achieve better results because the pad distributes the product more evenly over the surface without oversaturating.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen polishing, check the paint against the light: A uniform, streak-free surface without product residues is the goal. Turn cloths regularly to use a fresh cloth surface for polishing. Microfiber cloths with a medium pile structure are best suited for polishing off polish and wax products, as they absorb residues well without leaving scratches.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor machine application, an eccentric polishing machine with 8 to 15 mm stroke is recommended. For the polishing phase, a foam pad with medium hardness is suitable; for polishing off, switch to a soft finishing pad or a microfiber pad. The speed should be moderate during application — too high speeds generate heat that causes the wax to burn before polishing. When polishing off, the speed can be increased slightly to remove the last residues and finalize the shine. Larger vehicles can be worked on efficiently panel by panel, without the areas worked on first drying too much in the meantime.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAreas of Use and Limitations — For Which Paint Conditions BrilliantWax 1 is Suitable\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBrilliantWax 1 is designed for paints with light maintenance needs: Fine micro-scratches from normal driving, slight oxidation, or a loss of gloss due to weathering can be effectively removed by the product. For deep scratches that reach into the base coat, or for heavily oxidized paints with pronounced hazing, the abrasive power of BrilliantWax 1 is not sufficient — here, heavier polishes from the PROFILINE range or special abrasive polishes are necessary.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe rule of thumb for assessing whether BrilliantWax 1 is sufficient: If the nail glides over a scratch and does not get caught, the scratch is only in the clear coat — these are precisely the scratches that a mild care polish like BrilliantWax 1 can remove. If the nail gets caught, the scratch goes deeper, and a stronger abrasive polish or even an additional paint treatment would be necessary. This simple test saves time and avoids unnecessary paint removal by overly aggressive products for scratches that cannot be removed with a mild polish anyway.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor new vehicles or freshly prepared paints, BrilliantWax 1 is the ideal maintenance polish: regularly used, it keeps the paint's high gloss at a high level and prevents the formation of deeper oxidation layers that would later have to be corrected with more aggressive means. The principle of prevention — regular gentle care instead of infrequent intensive correction — preserves the clear coat thickness in the long term.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnyone who wants to keep their vehicle paint in top condition permanently benefits from a clearly defined care calendar: Spring and autumn are the classic times for a polishing treatment with BrilliantWax 1. In spring, the residues of the winter season — salt, fine dust, initial pollen deposits — are removed, and the paint is protected for the UV-intensive summer period. In autumn, the surface is prepared for the demanding winter season, when road salt and cold put a particular strain on the paint surface. If a light refresher polish is also planned in summer, a continuous protection cycle is maintained, preserving the original shine of the vehicle for many years.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn dark and black paints, polish residues and streaks are particularly visible. When polishing a dark paint with BrilliantWax 1, special care should be taken during polishing, and ideally, work in good lighting conditions or with a detailing lamp. The final check against the light shows whether all product residues have been completely removed and the surface shines evenly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePlastic trim, rubber seals, and black plastic strips around doors and windows easily absorb wax products and leave a whitish film that stubbornly settles into the pores. It is advisable to tape off these areas or wipe them immediately after treatment with a clean, dry cloth before the wax penetrates. BrilliantWax 1 must not be used on matte paints or foils, as the abrasives would lighten the matte finish and permanently change the appearance.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBrilliantWax 1 in Comparison — When This Product is the Right Choice and When Not\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWithin the SONAX XTREME range, BrilliantWax 1 is positioned as a care polish with a mild abrasive grade and integrated wax sealant — the number 1 in this polishing series stands for the lowest abrasive grade and the finest finishing result. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-polish-wax-2-politur\"\u003eXTREME Polish+Wax 2\u003c\/a\u003e offers stronger abrasive power for more worn or dull paints; the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-polish-wax-3-politur\"\u003eXTREME Polish+Wax 3\u003c\/a\u003e is the most aggressive variant for deeper scratches and heavy oxidation. BrilliantWax 1 is the finishing product in this series — it abrades the least and leaves the most intense shine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs an alternative with a different protection approach, the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-polish-all-in-one-politur\"\u003eXTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\"\u003c\/a\u003e offers ceramic sealing instead of wax sealing. Ceramic lasts longer and offers more protection against chemical influences; BrilliantWax 1 is easier to apply and more affordable. Those seeking maximum protective effect with a 2-in-1 product should choose Ceramic Polish; those who prefer regular, uncomplicated care are better served with BrilliantWax 1.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor vehicle owners who have never worked with combi-polishes, BrilliantWax 1 is an ideal introduction: The tolerance for errors in application and timing is high, polishability is easy, and the result is reproducibly good even for beginners. If, after the first successful application, the result is satisfactory and more protective effect or durability is desired, the next step can be to switch to Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" or a separate ceramic sealant over the prepared surface. BrilliantWax 1 is therefore not only an end product but also a useful entry point into a more structured detailing routine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying Guide — For Whom XTREME BrilliantWax 1 is the Best Choice\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME BrilliantWax 1\u003c\/strong\u003e is the ideal care product for vehicle owners who want to polish and seal their paint at regular intervals — without buying and applying two separate products. For annual or semi-annual paint care polishing on newer vehicles without deeper scratches, it is the most efficient product from the SONAX XTREME line. The price in the 500 ml container is designed so that the product is also economically attractive for private users: A 500 ml can is sufficient for several complete vehicle treatments, so the cost per application remains low. As a verified SONAX specialist dealer, Detailing1 has BrilliantWax 1 in its range and is happy to advise on the right products for the respective paint condition.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":49345341456719,"sku":"D1-SNX-201200","price":17.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-xtreme-brilliantwax-1-wachsversiegelung_500ml.png?v=1721579274"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-ceramic-polish-all-in-one-politur","title":"XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" Polish","description":"\u003ch2\u003ePaint Correction and Ceramic Protection in One Step — with SONAX XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\"\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat can an all-in-one polish with ceramic technology do? It corrects minor paint defects like swirls and holograms while leaving behind a hydrophobic Si-Carbon protective layer — without a separate sealing step.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnyone who details vehicles knows the effort involved in a classic three-phase workflow: polishing for correction, finishing for gloss, sealing for protection. \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\"\u003c\/strong\u003e combines these steps: It corrects minor to medium paint defects, creates a high level of gloss after buffing, and leaves a Si-Carbon-based protective layer with hydrostatic effect. The result is a compact workflow, which is particularly the right choice for regular vehicle care and vehicles in good to normal used condition.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThree effects in one step: Correction, gloss, protection.\u003c\/strong\u003e The XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" contains abrasive particles for paint correction and Si-Carbon compounds for ceramic protection. During polishing, swirls and fine scratches are removed; when buffing off the residue, the formula leaves a protective layer that repels water and protects the paint surface from new contamination.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCompatible with manual and machine application.\u003c\/strong\u003e The product can be applied both by hand with an applicator sponge and with a DA orbital machine. For experienced users with a DA orbital polisher, the result is more even and efficient; for occasional users without a machine, manual application offers an accessible alternative.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSi-Carbon technology for a lasting hydrophobic effect.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Si-Carbon compounds in the formula are the same technology that SONAX uses in its XTREME Ceramic product range. After drying, they form a thin, even protective layer on the clear coat that repels water and light contamination, keeping the vehicle cleaner for longer.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePractical tip from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Work the XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" with a medium-soft to soft pad on a DA orbital machine. Since the product contains both abrasive particles and ceramic binders, too high a machine speed is counterproductive — the ceramic particles can deposit uncontrollably if overheated. Recommended speed: 3,500–4,500 RPM. Let the product dry briefly after polishing (finger test method: a slightly hazy veil that feels dry) before buffing it off with a clean microfiber cloth — then the protective layer will show its full effect.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSi-Carbon Technology in All-in-One Polish — How Correction and Protection Work Simultaneously\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTraditional wax polishes had not fully solved the challenge of combining abrasive particles and protective waxes in one formula — either the correction performance or the protective effect suffered. Modern all-in-one products with ceramic technology rely on graded particle sizes and new binders that enable a sequential effect: First, the abrasive particles correct, then the ceramic binders deposit a protective layer during the drying process. This phase separation in the formula is the key difference from older AIO products.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe basic principle of an all-in-one polish is the combination of two inherently opposing requirements: abrasive particles for removal and protective agents for sealing. The technological balance between both components determines how well an AIO product performs in practice. Too many abrasive particles interfere with protective layer formation; too many protective agents reduce cutting power and correction performance. \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\"\u003c\/strong\u003e uses a precisely matched proportion of particles for light to medium paint corrections, combined with Si-Carbon compounds that deposit as a thin protective layer on the clear coat during the drying process.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSi-Carbon technology is the umbrella term for organic-silicon-based compounds that provide a similar protective effect to pure ceramic coatings but are easier to apply. They exhibit hydrophobic properties — water beads off instead of sheeting — and form a barrier against light contamination such as road dust, bird droppings, and insect residues, making them easier to remove during the next wash. The durability of such an Si-Carbon layer from an AIO product, depending on care intensity and environmental exposure, is several months — less durable than a dedicated ceramic coating, but a significant gain in protection compared to a pure polish without any sealing component.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe abrasive particles in Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" are calibrated to remove swirls, fine holograms, and light-reflecting micro-scratches on normal clear coat surfaces without affecting deeper layers of the clear coat. It is not an aggressive cutting product — for deep scratches, oxidation, or severely damaged paint, a dedicated correction product is necessary. The XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" is the tool for so-called \"maintenance correction\" — the regular light refresh that keeps a vehicle in good paint condition.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eApplying Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" — Step-by-Step by Hand and Machine\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBefore an all-in-one polish can unleash its full potential, the paint surface must be in a clean initial state. Many users skip the decontamination phase and find that the polishing result is uneven or the expected correction performance is lacking. Iron particles, tar spots, and bonded contamination form a layer on the paint that stresses the pad and clogs the abrasive particles in the product. A thorough decontamination step is the prerequisite for a good AIO result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe paint surface should be thoroughly washed, decontaminated, and dry before application. Dirt, rust film, or embedded particles on the surface would act like abrasives and cause uncontrolled removal. Pre-treatment with an iron remover and possibly a clay bar product brings the surface to its optimal initial state. Application can begin on a dry, clean surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor hand application: Apply a small amount of product to a soft applicator sponge — a pea-sized amount is sufficient for an A4-sized area. Work in circular motions with medium pressure until the product is evenly distributed. For machine application with a DA orbital polisher: Distribute product on the pad, spread it over the area at a low speed, then increase the speed to 3,500–4,500 RPM and work in overlapping passes. Two to three passes allow the cutting action to work; then reduce the speed and do a final distribution pass. Let the product dry briefly on the panel (finger test method), then wipe off with a clean, soft microfiber cloth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter a complete panel pass — distribute, polish, let dry briefly, wipe off — it is advisable to inspect the surface with a detailing light or in direct sunlight. Remaining areas with holograms or product residues can be re-worked immediately. Early detection of imperfections is particularly important with an AIO product because the dried protective agent is more difficult to correct after final curing (24–48 hours).\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAn important note on quantity: All-in-one products with a protective crystal component tend to leave a streaky pattern if too much product is applied, which is difficult to wipe off completely. Less product and several thin layers achieve a better result than a single thick application. If resistance is still felt when wiping, the product has not fully dried — wait briefly, then polish again.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAll-in-One Results in Practice — Gloss, Protection, and Limitations\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter applying XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\", a dark paint color clearly shows the effect: Swirls and holograms are visibly reduced or gone, and the paint reflects more evenly and deeply. At the same time, a significant increase in hydrophobicity is noticeable — water beads off in small spheres, and rainwater runs off the slope of the roof without sheeting. This water beading effect is an immediate, visually measurable indicator of the Si-Carbon layer's effectiveness.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA frequently asked question concerns its use on dark vs. light paint colors. XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" is suitable for all paint colors, but the correction effect is most visible on dark colors (black, dark blue, dark grey) because swirls and holograms reflect more strongly on these surfaces. On light colors like white or silver, the protective effect is just as present, but the optical improvement after polishing is less dramatic. This does not mean that light vehicles do not benefit — the protective effect and improved gloss level are measurable on all colors.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe product's limitations are clearly in the degree of paint damage: XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" is not a deep correction product. Scratches that can be felt with a fingernail, deep holograms after rotary polishing, or pronounced oxidation damage exceed the capacity of an AIO product. Here, a two-phase workflow of correction (with a cutting product) and protection (with a dedicated sealant or the ceramic polish as a second step) is the correct approach.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe application temperature influences the formation of the protective layer. Working in a garage or in the shade at temperatures between 15 and 25 °C is ideal. In direct sunlight, the product dries too quickly before the Si-Carbon compounds can deposit evenly — the result is streaking. If you don't have a garage, you should place the vehicle in the shade for at least 30 minutes before application and wait until the surface has cooled down.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe durability of the protective layer from Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" depends on vehicle use, care frequency, and environmental exposure. Under normal conditions — regular hand washing, occasional rain, no aggressive cleaning with alkaline shampoos — the layer typically lasts three to six months. If you want longer durability and stronger protection, you can apply a layer of SONAX Ceramic Sealant after XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" — the AIO provides correction, and the sealant provides lasting protection.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eComparison with other polishes — when All-in-One is enough and when it is not\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn a direct comparison with specialized polishes like \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP \"03-06\"\u003c\/a\u003e, the XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" is the more accessible product: The NP \"03-06\" is a pure finish polish without protective agents, which produces maximum gloss on professional orbital or rotary machines — but leaves no sealant. The Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" is weaker in correction performance but delivers a complete result in one step. For professional detailing, where correction, finishing, and sealing are performed separately, the NP \"03-06\" is the stronger choice. For regular vehicle care and maintenance polishing, the AIO is the more efficient solution.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCompared to \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-polish-wax-3-politur\"\u003eSONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 3\u003c\/a\u003e, the Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" differs by its modern ceramic protection component instead of a classic wax component. Wax-based polishes provide a warm paint gloss with good water repellency but are more temperature-sensitive and less chemical-resistant than Si-Carbon protective layers. If you prefer contemporary ceramic protection instead of a Carnauba finish, the Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" is the right choice. If you appreciate a deep, warm Carnauba gloss, choose the Polish+Wax range.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you regularly wash your vehicle with a coating-compatible shampoo — such as SONAX XTREME Ceramic ActiveShampoo — you significantly extend the life of the Si-Carbon protective layer. Alkaline cleaners or aggressive wheel cleaners that get on the paint can prematurely break down the hydrophobicity of the protective layer. The product combination of Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" and Ceramic ActiveShampoo is a coordinated care cycle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAn important difference from classic one-step polishes without protective agents lies in the cleaning behavior after application. On vehicles with ceramic or Si-Carbon protection, dirt adheres less and is easier to remove during the next wash. This reduces washing pressure and friction on the paint, which indirectly reduces the occurrence of swirls for the next polishing step. The Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" thus creates a positive spiral: correction plus protection, fewer new scratches, less effort for the next use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor users who already have a dedicated ceramic coating on their vehicle, the Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" can be used as a refreshing polish during the protective layer's lifespan. The abrasive particles are mild enough not to completely remove the sealing layer, while the Si-Carbon components can regenerate the hydrophobicity.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFor whom the Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" is the right choice\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is the ideal product for vehicle owners who want to keep a good used vehicle in top condition regularly, without going through a multi-stage detailing workflow. Anyone who polishes twice a year benefits from a product that reduces swirls, increases gloss, and builds a protective layer in one step. For professional detailers, the AIO offers a practical application for vehicle intake: Slightly damaged new vehicles or used cars in good condition can be prepared quickly with the Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" before a ceramic coating is applied as a protective layer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe positioning is also evident in the comparison with \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-cut-finish-einstufen-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Cut+Finish\u003c\/a\u003e: Cut+Finish is the professional version with more cutting power, higher concentration, and PROFILINE quality standards — for businesses that work on many vehicles with different paint conditions daily. The XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" is designed for the demanding private user and occasional professional use who seeks a complete result in one step. As a verified SONAX specialist dealer, Detailing1 permanently carries the XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" in its assortment and recommends it as an entry point into the Ceramic care range. If you are unsure whether the AIO is sufficient for your own vehicle or whether a two-step workflow with separate correction and sealing is necessary, you can get advice from Detailing1 — based on the paint condition and desired protection duration, the right product combination can always be found. A practical starting point is the fingernail test: If the nail slides over a scratch without getting caught, the Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" can correct it. If the nail catches, a dedicated cutting product is needed. This simple decision rule helps to choose the right product for the respective vehicle, without extensive light inspection. Regular care with the XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" every two to four months keeps a well-maintained vehicle permanently in a condition that comes close to professional detailing — with minimal time expenditure and a product that does not require a separate sealing step.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":49345418592591,"sku":"D1-SNX-247200","price":18.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-polish-all-in-one-politur_500ml.png?v=1721579808"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-kunststoffgel-aussen-kunststoffpflege","title":"XTREME Plastic Gel \"Exterior\" Plastic Care","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRegenerate faded exterior plastics and keep them protected for good with SONAX XTREME KunststoffGel\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat makes SONAX's KunststoffGel \"Außen\" special? The deep-acting gel regenerates faded, greyed bumpers and trim strips, brings back a deep black and protects the surface long-term against the weather and premature ageing.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnyone who has spent time around a car that is a few years old knows the problem: the paintwork shines like new again after a good polish — but the black plastic parts around the bumpers, sill trims, door handles and mirror housings show their age with a dull, greyish look. UV, rain and road grime attack the untreated plastic surfaces and let them fade, and a simple wash does nothing to fix it. That is exactly what the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME KunststoffGel \"Außen\"\u003c\/strong\u003e was built for: a deep-acting care gel that does not just sit on the surface but works its way into the plastic, feeds it moisture and care agents and builds a long-lasting protective layer while it is at it. The result is a noticeably richer look and real, demonstrable protection that softens the next round of weathering. With just 250 ml you get a long way for a full car — the gel is a concentrated formula and you use very little of it, which makes it economical despite its high-end performance.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDeep-acting regeneration instead of a mere surface coating.\u003c\/strong\u003e The gel works into the open plastic structure and feeds the polymer fibres with care agents from the inside. That is the key difference to sprays that only lay down a film on top: the FoamGiant does not just lift the grey optically — it tackles the underlying dryness that causes the faded look in the first place. The effect lasts far longer than with ordinary plastic-care products.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDeep black and a rich sheen for every exterior plastic.\u003c\/strong\u003e Bumpers, side skirts, wheel arch flares, door handles, mirror housings, exterior rubber seals — the XTREME KunststoffGel brings back the deep black that untreated plastic parts have from the factory and gives them a subtle, factory-look sheen. No unnatural high-gloss finish, just a look that matches the factory-fresh original.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWeather protection against UV and greying.\u003c\/strong\u003e Once applied, the care agents in the gel form a protective barrier that blocks UV and slows dirt and moisture from working into the plastic surface. That does not only cut the visible ageing — it extends how long the plastic parts stay mechanically sound, year after year.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Always put the XTREME KunststoffGel on clean, dry plastic — dirt left under the gel drags the effect down and can leave you with uneven results. Give it a quick clean first with a plastic cleaner or the XTREME Reifen- und KunststoffReiniger, then lay it on thin and even with a sponge applicator and work it in. Do not overload it — better to go thin and add a second coat once the first has soaked in. Do not apply it in direct sun on hot panels, or the gel flashes off too fast and can leave streaks. On rubber seals the gel works just as well and keeps them from going brittle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eA deep-acting plastic care gel — how the formula regenerates greyed surfaces\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eExterior plastic parts on cars are mostly PP (polypropylene) or ABS, both materials that go brittle and bleach out under UV if you do not care for them. The \"greying\" happens when the top molecular layer of the plastic oxidises under UV and the dark colour pigments break down. Plain cleaning or waxes meant for paint cannot stop that — they only sit on the surface without getting into the plastic structure. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME KunststoffGel\u003c\/strong\u003e, by contrast, is formulated so the care agents use the capillary structure of the plastic and actively work their way in. That regenerates the oxidised polymer layers, brings back the natural look and then seals the surface from the inside against further UV and moisture getting in.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe gel consistency is a deliberate choice: thin sprays spread fast but, when you dose them heavily, tend to overspray onto neighbouring panels — a familiar problem with tyre-shine sprays on brake discs or plastic-care sprays on the bodywork. The XTREME KunststoffGel stays where you put it. The creamy consistency lets you work precisely with the sponge applicator, and the application stays controllable. That matters most at the transitions between plastic and paint, where any care product must not leave marks on the paint. The formula is also free of silicone oils, which do give an intense slickness short-term but harden the plastic structure over time and can make later repairs or paintwork harder. Silicone-free care matters especially if the car gets polished or resprayed regularly — silicone contamination off plastic parts can cause adhesion problems and fisheyes on the paint next to it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eApply the XTREME KunststoffGel regularly — every four to six weeks is the sweet spot — and you build up a cumulative protective layer that does not just hide the greying but slows it down for real. Spring, right after winter, is the moment for an intensive application, since road salt and cold hit the plastic surfaces especially hard. The gel helps reset the surface oxidation the winter left behind and gets the plastics good and ready for the UV-heavy, punishing summer season.\n\n\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAnother thing that sets the XTREME KunststoffGel apart from a lot of cheap products: it contains no aggressive solvents, which blacken hard short-term but attack the plastic surface at the same time and speed up more embrittlement in the long run. This \"yo-yo effect\" is well known with cheap plastic-care products — after a few days the surface looks even greyer than before, because the solvent has pulled moisture out and damaged the polymer layer. The XTREME KunststoffGel works purely through care agents that feed the plastic with moisture and build a protective layer without damaging the substance. Over the long run this gentler approach pays off: the plastic parts look better and better after repeated use, instead of fading faster after every treatment.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eApplying KunststoffGel \"Außen\" right — prep and application for the best results\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePrepping the plastic surface is the most critical step for a good result. Care agents can only work in deep if the surface is free of oils, dirt residue and old care-product leftovers. Put it on a surface that still holds traces of a silicone- or oil-based previous product and you will find the result stays uneven — the new care agents cannot fully penetrate because the old layer blocks them completely. So the rule is: always clean thoroughly first — either with a dedicated plastic cleaner or, as part of your regular car wash, with a shampoo that degreases the plastic parts. Dry it off, and only then put the XTREME KunststoffGel on.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe application itself is easy: spread a small amount of gel on a soft sponge applicator and work it thin but over the whole area into the plastic. Circular motions work well to get the gel evenly into the surface. Short dwell time of 1–2 minutes, then lightly take off the excess with a clean microfibre cloth. A tip for the transition zones between plastic and paint: when you apply with the sponge, go ahead and overlap a little, then wipe straight over the paint with a fresh cloth afterwards — that way you get no ugly marks along the border line. Use an applicator sponge with a rounded edge and you will get into the tight grooves and textures of the bumpers too, for a more even result than a flat rag gives you. Do not put too much on at once — a thin film works better and lasts longer than a thick layer that sits on the surface and pulls in dust over time. On badly greyed surfaces, a second application once the first has fully soaked in can boost the effect noticeably. The XTREME KunststoffGel is explicitly for exterior plastics only: interior parts, steering wheel, pedals or the accelerator are not suitable — care products that could make safety surfaces slippery have no place there, full stop.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere it works — which exterior plastics the XTREME KunststoffGel regenerates\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe gel suits every smooth, untreated exterior plastic: front and rear bumpers, sill trims, wheel arch flares, door handles, mirror housings, transition mouldings between the body and doors, and rain channels. Exterior rubber seals benefit from the care too: the gel keeps off the brittleness that mainly comes from the cold in winter, and keeps the seals supple and working. For high-gloss plastics — painted bumpers, say, or glossy add-on parts — the gel is not your first pick, though: paint-specific care products are the better fit there, since the KunststoffGel leaves a slightly matte finish on high-gloss surfaces. It is a product for untreated, matte exterior plastic.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA common question is whether the XTREME KunststoffGel also works on rubber impact strips or rubber profiles — and the answer is yes: the gel suits smooth exterior rubber surfaces too and delivers a caring, protective effect there. On textured or very porous rubber, the application can take a bit more time so the gel spreads evenly. On trim strips with a chrome element, take care during application and keep the gel off the chrome areas — chrome surfaces need different care products, and a plastic gel can leave matte residue on chrome. With a targeted, clean-edged application, though, that is no problem.\n\n\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe XTREME KunststoffGel is not suitable for surfaces with heavy mechanical damage like deep scratches or chipped areas — here you first have to repair the substance by sanding or applying a plastic primer before a care product makes any sense. On very old cars where the plastic parts are already badly damaged structurally, the gel can improve the look but cannot mechanically restore the plastic substance. For a regularly cared-for car, on the other hand, it is an indispensable product that makes sure the exterior plastics keep their looks for many years.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eKunststoffGel compared — what sets it apart from other plastic-care products\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSONAX's plastic-care range has several products with different focuses. The \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-xtreme-kunststoffdetailer-innen-aussen-kunststoffpflege\"\u003eXTREME KunststoffDetailer \"Innen+Außen\"\u003c\/a\u003e is a liquid quick-care product for both areas — inside and out. It is ideal for regular refreshing and everyday care, but it does not give the deep action of the gel. If your plastics are already in good shape and you just want to refresh them regularly, the Detailer sorts you out fast and efficiently. If you want to revive more heavily greyed or neglected exterior plastics, you get more out of the more concentrated care action of the XTREME KunststoffGel.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the professional level, or on cars permanently exposed to heavy outdoor use, it is worth adding the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-plastic-protectant-exterior-kunststoffpflege\"\u003ePROFILINE PlasticProtectant \"Exterior\"\u003c\/a\u003e after the gel treatment — a professional plastic protectant from the PROFILINE line that builds a long-lasting protective layer on exterior plastics. In combination you get a two-step workflow: XTREME KunststoffGel for deep care and regeneration, PROFILINE PlasticProtectant as long-term weather protection on top. Also anchored in the pro segment is the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-plasticcare-kunststoffpflege\"\u003ePROFILINE PlasticCare\u003c\/a\u003e — ideal for detailers who work through a lot of cars regularly and want professionally formulated products.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying advice — who the SONAX XTREME KunststoffGel is worth it for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe XTREME KunststoffGel is the right call for anyone who wants to get faded, greyed exterior plastics back into shape and keep them cared for. It is especially worth it on older cars from around three to four years on, where the plastic parts have visibly lost their as-new look, and on cars that stand outside a lot and take heavy UV. If you wash and care for your car regularly but have skipped the exterior plastic so far, you will be surprised at your first go with the XTREME KunststoffGel just how much of a visual difference targeted plastic care makes: the body looks younger, fresher and better kept overall once the black plastic parts show their full black again instead of sitting there grey and matte.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe 250 ml bottle lasts for plenty of applications when you dose it sparingly — treat your car every four to six weeks and one bottle sees you through a season. That makes the value for money simply excellent, when you consider that having a pro recondition faded and greyed plastic would cost several times as much. In short: the XTREME KunststoffGel is an affordable, highly effective care product that delivers visible results straight away and, at the same time, keeps the exterior plastics looking better and standing up tougher for the long run. Love your car and care for it regularly, and after the first application you will not get why you went so long without this product — the visual gap between cared-for and neglected exterior plastics is one of the most striking quality differences between a freshly serviced car and a neglected one. Some detailers recommend using the KunststoffGel after a respray or partial repair on body parts too: after sanding and paintwork on bumpers, the transitions to the untreated plastic are often especially visible — a treatment with the XTREME KunststoffGel harmonises the look and closes visual gaps that would otherwise only disappear months later through even weathering.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":49345515979087,"sku":"D1-SNX-02101090","price":10.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-xtreme-kunststoffgel-aussen-kunststoffpflege_250ml.png?v=1721580626"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-foam-seal-schaumversiegelung-autoshampoo-versiegelung","title":"XTREME Foam+Seal \"Foam Sealant\" Car Shampoo with Sealant","description":"\u003ch2\u003eWash and seal at the same time — with SONAX XTREME Foam+Seal Foam Sealant\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat can SONAX XTREME Foam+Seal do? The 2-in-1 sealing shampoo with foam formula gently cleans, refreshes existing sealants, creates a beading effect, and accelerates drying – for foam lances and foam sprayers.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eNormal car shampoo cleans the vehicle — and that's it. What if you could build up a protective layer on the paint or refresh an existing sealant while washing? That's exactly what \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Foam+Seal\u003c\/strong\u003e promises: a sealing shampoo that, with a foam formula, creates a dense carpet on the vehicle, loosens dirt, restores maximum shine, and forms a water- and dirt-repellent protective layer — all in a single washing step. The result: a clean vehicle with a beading effect that also dries faster after washing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCleans and seals in one step.\u003c\/strong\u003e Foam shampoo and sealant at the same time means: no separate step with wax or spray sealant after washing. The sealing component is deposited on the paint during application and forms a hydrophobic protective layer — simple, efficient, without extra effort.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBeading effect and faster drying.\u003c\/strong\u003e The deposited sealant layer makes water bead. This is not only visually impressive but also reduces water spots from standing water and makes drying with a drying towel significantly faster. The special drying formula additionally speeds up the process.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eRefreshes existing sealants.\u003c\/strong\u003e If you have already protected your vehicle with a coating or a polymer sealant, Foam+Seal is beneficial as a maintenance shampoo: the sealing components supplement and activate the existing protective layer with every wash — without elaborate post-treatment.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePractical tip from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Foam+Seal achieves its full effect if the foam is allowed to act on the vehicle for a few minutes before you start working with a wash mitt. This gives the sealing component time to deposit evenly on the paint surface. Then rinse thoroughly — standing soap residues interfere with the even buildup of the protective layer. For optimal results, dry the vehicle immediately after washing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSealing Shampoo Technology — how washing and sealing work together\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe concept behind \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Foam+Seal\u003c\/strong\u003e initially sounds like a contradiction: a shampoo cleans — and in doing so, cleans away what is on the paint. How can it simultaneously build up a protective layer? The answer lies in the formulation. The sealing shampoo contains two active ingredient complexes: a surfactant-based cleaning block that loosens and emulsifies dirt, and a polymer protective component that deposits on contact with the paint — independently of the cleaning process. Dirt and protective polymer adhere to different surfaces and do not interfere with each other.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe foam is the carrier system for both components. It distributes both the cleaning surfactants and the sealing polymers evenly over the vehicle surface — even in areas that the wash mitt does not reach, such as deep in door handles, spoiler edges, or gap areas. After rinsing, the surfactants are washed away by the water; the sealing polymers adhere to the paint and form a thin, even protective layer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis protective layer is not comparable to a complete polymer sealant or a ceramic coating — the layer thickness is thinner and the durability is correspondingly shorter. What Foam+Seal does is to regularly refresh the protective effect: If you treat the vehicle every second or third wash with Foam+Seal, you maintain a continuous basic sealant on the paint that withstands weathering, dirt deposits, and UV light significantly better than an unprotected paint finish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFoam+Seal is particularly interesting for vehicles that are already sealed with a coating. Many coating manufacturers recommend specific maintenance shampoos that do not overlay the coating surface with wax. Foam+Seal contains no carnauba wax components that could negatively affect coatings — it is a pure polymer maintenance product and therefore coating-compatible.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother advantage over separate products: Those who previously washed separately and then re-sealed with a spray wax or quick detailer save the second step with Foam+Seal. The time saving per wash is small — perhaps 10–15 minutes — but over a year, this is a noticeable relief in vehicle care, without sacrificing protective effect. This makes the product particularly attractive for vehicle owners who wash consistently but do not want to deal intensively with detailing products.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eApplying Foam+Seal correctly — foam lance, foam sprayer and optimal dwell time\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the best results, application via a foam lance on a high-pressure cleaner is suitable. Fill the concentrate into the reservoir according to the manufacturer's instructions, spray the vehicle completely with foam, and let it dwell for 3–5 minutes. Then work with a soft wash mitt or sponge — the foam in the mitt reduces friction and protects the paint. Afterwards, rinse thoroughly with clear water.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe hand foam sprayer is the alternative without a high-pressure cleaner. It generates fine foam that is applied directly to the vehicle and worked in with a mitt. The cleaning performance is comparable; the foam carpet is slightly less dense than with a foam lance, but for the sealing effect, this is irrelevant — the polymers deposit regardless of foam density.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you want maximum sealing effect, you can briefly rinse the vehicle with clear water after washing and dry it immediately with a nanofiber drying towel — without post-treatment. The protective layer is already on the paint at this point. Drying activates the sealing polymers and ensures even distribution. A vehicle that simply air-dries after a Foam+Seal wash already shows the beading effect during drying: water contracts into drops instead of standing flat on the paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eRegarding application temperature: As with all sealing products, the vehicle should not be treated when it is too hot or when it is freezing. The optimal application temperature is between 10 and 30 degrees Celsius. At hot outdoor temperatures or in direct sunlight, the foam dries too quickly — the polymers then deposit unevenly. Choose the shade or the cooler hours of the day for best results. In freezing temperatures, the product should not be used, as the polymers will not cure correctly at low temperatures.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA practical question about yield: How many washes does one bottle provide? This depends on the vehicle size and equipment configuration. As a guideline: with normal dosage for a foam lance, a standard bottle is sufficient for well over ten complete vehicle washes — economical enough to use Foam+Seal as a regular everyday shampoo, without having to think about the costs every time you wash.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBeading effect and protective action — what Foam+Seal delivers in practice\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThose who use a sealing shampoo like Foam+Seal for the first time often notice an immediate visible beading effect after washing. Water beads off the paint in small spheres — the lotus effect of the applied polymer protective layer is noticeable directly after the first wash. This effect is initially moderate and builds up with regular use over several washes: those who consistently use Foam+Seal accumulate a thicker polymer layer on the paint over time, which creates an increasingly strong beading effect.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe drying formula is a detail that makes more of a difference in everyday life than expected. Who doesn't know the problem: vehicle washed, now comes the drying — ten minutes with the drying towel until all surfaces are dry and streak-free. With the deposited sealant layer and the accelerated drying formula, water runs off faster; less water film remains on the paint and drying with the drying towel takes significantly less time. A small detail, but those who wash regularly appreciate every time advantage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eImportant: Foam+Seal is not a substitute for a full polymer sealant or a ceramic coating. The protective layer that the shampoo builds up with each wash is thin and lasts between washes under normal conditions. If you are looking for long-lasting protection that lasts for months or longer, you need a dedicated sealant. Foam+Seal is the right product for maintenance between full sealant applications — it maintains the protection that a base sealant has built up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA common misunderstanding: If the beading diminishes after a few weeks without washing, it does not mean that the protective effect is gone. The thin polymer layer is still present, but it is reduced by dirt, water spots, and UV exposure. Another wash with Foam+Seal immediately brings back the beading effect because new polymers are applied to the cleaned surface. This is the difference from \"wearing out\" a full sealant: Foam+Seal is reapplied with each wash and thus builds itself up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSealing shampoo comparison — Foam+Seal, Reload Shampoo and Ceramic Active-Shampoo\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX XTREME portfolio offers several shampoos with additional protective functions. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-reload-shampoo-versiegelungsshampoo\"\u003ePROFILINE Reload Shampoo\u003c\/a\u003e is a sealing shampoo from the PROFILINE series and is aimed at professional users who are looking for a stronger sealing component in the shampoo — it complements professional coatings and is designed for long durability. Foam+Seal, on the other hand, is more broadly accessible and designed for the average car owner who wants to build up protection easily and without extra effort.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-activeshampoo-autoshampoo\"\u003eXTREME Ceramic Active-Shampoo\u003c\/a\u003e contains ceramic active ingredients and is particularly suitable for vehicles with existing ceramic coatings — it activates and complements the ceramic surface with every wash. Foam+Seal uses polymeric active ingredients without ceramic content and is therefore the more universally applicable product — also for non-ceramic sealed vehicles or vehicles without an existing sealant.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor vehicles with a fresh ceramic sealant, we recommend the Ceramic Active-Shampoo for maintenance use. For all other vehicles — unsealed, wax-sealed or polymer-sealed — Foam+Seal is the most effective and easiest way to build and maintain protection with every wash.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother comparable product from a different product category are classic spray waxes, which are applied to the still-wet vehicle after washing. These often produce a slightly stronger shine effect and a thicker protective layer per application — but they require an additional step and an additional product. Foam+Seal makes exactly that superfluous. Those who choose between spray wax after washing and Foam+Seal as a washing shampoo essentially decide for or against the extra effort. Both variants are valid — Foam+Seal is the more convenient, spray wax potentially the more intensive.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying Sealing Shampoo — for whom is SONAX XTREME Foam+Seal worthwhile?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSONAX XTREME Foam+Seal is ideal for vehicle owners who want to make their car care as efficient as possible: washing and protecting at the same time, without planning a separate sealing step. The product is particularly useful for drivers who wash their vehicle weekly or every two weeks — the cumulative effect of the polymers becomes significantly better with regular use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor vehicles without an existing full sealant, Foam+Seal is an easy introduction to sealant care: no polishing machine needed, no elaborate coating, no curing times. Simply use it during normal washing and build up a basic protective layer with each application. The result is not comparable to a high-quality ceramic coating — but it is significantly better than no protection at all, with the least possible additional effort.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor new cars or freshly polished vehicles, Foam+Seal is an excellent way to protect the good condition of the paint from the start, without carrying out an elaborate sealing treatment. New paints do not yet have ingrained damage and benefit immediately from protection against UV radiation, bird droppings, and industrial fallout, which attack the surface with regular use. With consistent Foam+Seal use, the paint remains in a condition that, even after years, is significantly better than that of a completely unprotected vehicle with the same mileage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe sensible workflow: Use Foam+Seal as a regular washing shampoo, supplementing it every two to three months with a more complete protective treatment — such as the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-sprayversiegelung-spruehversiegelung\"\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic Spray Sealant\u003c\/a\u003e after washing or a quick coating. Foam+Seal maintains the basic protective layer; the supplementary treatment strengthens the protective effect at regular intervals. This is a practical, inexpensive, and effective alternative to expensive full sealants for anyone who wants to permanently protect their paint but doesn't want to polish and seal every weekend.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSo, for those who want the best of both worlds — consistent protection buildup through regular washing, supplemented by occasional full sealing — Foam+Seal as an everyday shampoo provides a reliable base. The combination of washing and protecting in one step saves time, money, and effort, without reducing the protective effect to zero. For this application, Foam+Seal is the practical sealing principle: always a little better, with every wash.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis sealing shampoo is therefore one of the most sensible decisions for anyone who wants to achieve a lasting difference in the protection status of their vehicle with a single change in the washing workflow — away from normal shampoo, towards sealing shampoo. No additional product, no additional step, no learning curve. Simply replace the previous shampoo and start building in protection from the first wash. This makes Foam+Seal one of the most valuable everyday products in the detailing portfolio — not because it is the strongest product, but because it is the most consistent.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFinal recommendation: Start with a thorough basic cleaning of the vehicle before using Foam+Seal for the first time — on a cleanly degreased paint, the sealing polymers will deposit more evenly and with stronger adhesion than on a paint burdened with residues. Anyone who thoroughly degreases and cleans their vehicle before the first Foam+Seal application starts with an optimal basis for continuous protection. After just the first three to four washes with Foam+Seal, you will see the difference: a beading effect that builds up, water that drains off faster, and a paint that looks significantly fresher and cleaner after rain than before.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":49352717107535,"sku":"D1-SNX-251300","price":10.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-xtreme-foam-seal-autoshampoo-versiegelung_1000ml.png?v=1721676692"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-metalpolish-metallpolitur","title":"PROFILINE MetalPolish Metal Polish (Medium-Cut)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eBringing tarnished metal surfaces back to a mirror shine — with the SONAX PROFILINE MetalPolish\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE MetalPolish do? This medium-cut metal polish pulls tarnish, oxidation, light rust and dullness off aluminium, brass, chrome and stainless steel — and brings metal surfaces up to a near-mirror shine.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePolished metal loses its shine over time — oxygen, moisture, UV light and airborne acids leave behind tarnish, oxidation layers and that typical dull haze a simple clean won't shift. That's where the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MetalPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in: a high-gloss polish with a medium cut that uses quality abrasive minerals to gently take down tarnish and oxidation layers, exposing a highly reflective, polished surface underneath. The formula works on all the common metals — aluminium, brass, chrome, stainless steel — and does it without aggressive acids or alkalis that can trigger corrosion damage on sensitive metal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMedium cut for a wide range of jobs.\u003c\/strong\u003e The medium cut lets you polish quickly even on heavily tarnished or dull metal, without taking off too much or damaging more delicate surfaces. For most jobs — exhaust tips, polished aluminium rim barrels, chrome trim, stainless steel panels — the medium grit is the right starting point: it gives you visible results without stripping away material you don't need to.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWorks on all the common metal surfaces.\u003c\/strong\u003e Aluminium, brass, chrome, stainless steel, copper — the polish works on all of these with no specific compatibility issues. It has proven itself especially on motorcycle parts, exhaust systems, wheels, boat fittings and polished-metal kitchen pieces, wherever you want both cleaning power and a high-gloss result.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHigh-gloss finish straight from the tube.\u003c\/strong\u003e After polishing you get a near-mirror high-gloss finish that needs no separate follow-up step. That saves you a step compared with two-stage systems, where you first cut with a coarse product and then refine with a pure finisher — with the PROFILINE MetalPolish the cutting and polishing phases are combined into one pass.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e For the best results, clean and dry the metal thoroughly before you polish — dirt particles sitting on the surface cause deeper scratches during polishing than the polish's own abrasive does. Lay the MetalPolish onto a clean, soft cotton cloth or polishing pad and work in round, overlapping motions across small areas. Don't go too thin — the paste should stay visibly on the surface until it cures and turns slightly cloudy. Then buff it off with a clean cloth and check the result. Heavily tarnished areas may need a second pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eMedium-cut metal polish — how the medium cut works\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA metal polish works through controlled micro-abrasion: fine abrasive grains in the paste take down the top layer of oxidation, tarnish and micro-scratches while smoothing the metal underneath. The finer the grain, the higher the shine you can reach, but the longer the working time on badly damaged surfaces. The medium cut of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MetalPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e is a deliberate compromise: strong enough to remove clear tarnish and medium oxidation layers in a single pass, fine enough to build a high-gloss finish straight away, without needing a separate finishing step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe abrasive minerals in the formula are chosen to work gently on metal and not cause excessive material removal. That matters especially on thinly plated chrome or coated aluminium: abrasives that are too aggressive can work through protective layers and expose the base material underneath, which speeds up corrosion. The medium abrasion of the MetalPolish keeps that risk at a controlled level and is matched to the typical thickness of chrome and aluminium coatings.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOne conceptual difference from paint polishes like the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/a\u003e is worth flagging: paint polishes are formulated for organic polymer layers (clear coat), metal polishes for inorganic metal surfaces. The abrasive grains are chosen differently, and the carrier paste is tuned to the specific adhesion and heat conduction of metal. These products aren't interchangeable — a paint polish on metal won't give you optimal results, and a metal polish on clear coat can leave scratches depending on how hard the abrasive is. So use the MetalPolish only on bare, non-painted metal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAfter polishing — once the applied product has hazed over and you've buffed it off with a cloth — the MetalPolish leaves no annoying oily film or residue. The metal stays fresh, shiny and grippy after buffing. An optional sealing step with a metal protectant or wax film can stretch out how long it takes to tarnish again, and it's well worth it on outdoor chrome trim.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing metal polish the right way — step by step for maximum shine\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eYou can apply the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MetalPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e both by hand and with a rotary machine. By hand: put a hazelnut-sized amount of polish on a clean cotton cloth, a polishing cloth or a soft polishing block. Spread it over the metal in circular or straight-line motions — not too fast, but with even pressure, working small sections of about 20×20 cm. Let the polish work until it has dried slightly and looks milky-cloudy (typically 30–60 seconds at room temperature), then buff it off with a clean, dry cotton cloth. The result shows immediately: the cloudy residue holds the dissolved oxide and the dirt you've lifted off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWith a machine (rotary or dual-action polisher): pick a suitable pad depending on the machine — for MetalPolish a medium-hard polishing pad or a cotton polishing bonnet works well. Choose a low speed (rotary: about 1000–1500 rpm, dual-action: step 3–4) and move evenly across the surface. Machine polishing on metal saves a lot of time and, thanks to the mechanical pressure, gives more even results than polishing by hand — but it takes a bit more practice to avoid overheating on edges and corners. After machine polishing, buff off just like with hand work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn heavily tarnished or deeply oxidised surfaces a second pass may be needed. Important: after each pass, check with a clean cloth whether you've reached the result you want before you set up more polishing runs — over-polishing takes off material for no reason, without improving the result any further.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere metal polish works best — the strongest use cases for the MetalPolish\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe MetalPolish shows its strength anywhere polished metal has gone dull and unsightly from the elements. On vehicles: chrome trim, aluminium rim lips, stainless steel sills, exhaust tips and systems (always work on cold parts!), motorcycle exhaust headers, aluminium engine covers, and motorsport parts in polished aluminium or titanium. The results are especially striking on exhaust systems, which develop the typical heat tints — blue, gold-brown, purple — from the heat. In many cases a metal polish removes these fully or largely and gives the exhaust back its original metal finish. On titanium components (racing, high-performance exhausts) the heat tints are often seen as an aesthetic feature — so before you polish, think about whether you actually want the original finish back or whether to keep the heat tints on purpose.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWith alloy wheels there's an important distinction to make: bare, uncoated aluminium wheels (rare, but common in the classic-car and motorsport world) can be worked directly with the metal polish. Standard new- and used-car wheels, on the other hand, are covered with a clear coat or anodised — those shouldn't be worked with the metal polish, because the abrasion attacks the clear coat. The right approach for painted wheels is a paint polish, not a metal polish. When in doubt: test a tiny patch in an inconspicuous spot before you work the whole wheel.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAway from vehicles the MetalPolish is just as capable: boat fittings and propellers in brass or stainless steel, stainless steel railings and handrails, polished brass fittings, historical pieces in silver or bronze, polished stainless steel kitchenware. The polish has its limits on painted or anodised metal — those protective layers shouldn't be mechanically polished. Anodised aluminium wheels or powder-coated parts are therefore not suitable use cases for a metal polish, whatever product you reach for.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eMetal polish comparison — PROFILINE MetalPolish vs. XTREME MetalPolish and alternatives\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX range has two metal polishes: the PROFILINE version and the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-xtreme-metalpolish-metallpolitur\"\u003eSONAX XTREME MetalPolish\u003c\/a\u003e. Both remove tarnish and oxidation from metal, but they differ in pack size and positioning. The XTREME MetalPolish (150 ml tube) is aimed at hobby detailers and occasional users who prefer a handy pack size for smaller jobs and one-off applications. The PROFILINE MetalPolish (250 ml) is built for regular users and businesses that polish more often and want to keep a slightly larger amount on hand.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn terms of content, both products use comparable abrasive minerals for the medium cut — the key difference is less about how they work and more about product size and positioning: PROFILINE is the pro line for regular use, XTREME the consumer pack for home use. If you work in a business or regularly recondition motorcycles, cars or boats, you reach for the PROFILINE; if you occasionally polish up your own wheels or exhaust, the XTREME MetalPolish serves you just as well.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor special jobs it's worth a look at the other products in the SONAX PROFILINE range: the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-glasspolish-glaspolitur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassPolish\u003c\/a\u003e is specialised for glass surfaces — scratches and water spots in windscreens or rear windows — and works with cerium-oxide abrasive technology on a different class of material than the MetalPolish. If you're putting together a comprehensive reconditioning kit that covers both paint and metal work, the SONAX PROFILINE range has the right specialist polish for every material.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the SONAX PROFILINE MetalPolish — recommendation and who it's for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MetalPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e is the pick for anyone who polishes metal regularly and wants a reliable, proven professional product for the job. The 250 ml tube goes a long way — a single exhaust system, a whole motorcycle, several chrome parts — and its medium cut gives you maximum flexibility: from the occasional exhaust refresh to the systematic reconditioning of a whole vehicle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTo go with the polish, a set of quality cotton cloths or polishing applicators helps you get even results when polishing by hand. Important: don't use microfibre cloths to buff bare polished metal — microfibre loops can leave fine scratches on high-gloss metal that you won't get with cotton cloths. For machine polishing, cotton polishing bonnets or medium-soft foam polishing pads are the way to go.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you want a long-lasting protective layer after polishing that noticeably delays fresh tarnishing, plan a metal-sealing step after the MetalPolish: a thin wax film, a metal protectant oil or, in some cases, a ceramic coating can stretch the life of the polished state from a few weeks to several months — especially on outdoor parts exposed to the weather. It's particularly worth it on painstakingly reconditioned exhaust systems or motorcycle chrome, where you want the result to last as long as possible. For hobby detailers who occasionally polish up a single metal part, the PROFILINE MetalPolish in the 250 ml tube will last for many years — the tube goes far and the product has an unlimited shelf life when stored correctly (cool, dry, sealed).\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53502874386767,"sku":"D1-SNX-02041410","price":19.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53506187526479,"sku":"D1-SNX-2041410_2","price":34.56,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53506187559247,"sku":"D1-SNX-2041410_3","price":51.84,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-metalpolish-metallpolitur.png?v=1730405721"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-actifoam-energy-reinigungsschaum","title":"PROFILINE ActiFoam \"Energy\" Cleaning Foam (Snow Foam)","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eScratch-free pre-wash with SONAX ActiFoam Energy\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is SONAX ActiFoam Energy? A pH-neutral snow foam cleaner (pH 6.5–7.5) from SONAX that chemically loosens bug splatter, road film and light fallout during the contactless pre-wash — without attacking wax layers, ceramic coatings or wraps. Not meant as a standalone cleaner for baked-on tar or heavy industrial fallout.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSONAX ActiFoam Energy\u003c\/strong\u003e is a highly concentrated cleaning foam from the SONAX PROFILINE range, whipped into a thick, clinging snow foam through a foam lance on your pressure washer. The surfactant mix of anionic and non-ionic surfactants — among them Sodium Laureth Sulfate and Lauramine Oxide — builds a creamy foam that sits on vertical panels instead of running straight off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOver a dwell time of two to five minutes, the surfactants break the bond between dirt particles and the paint. Most of the grime rinses off without contact. That cuts the risk of dragging grit like sandpaper across the paint with your mitt during the wash that follows — the real win over reaching straight for the wash mitt.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-actifoam-energy-snow-foam-vorwaesche.jpg?v=1776079273\" alt=\"SONAX ActiFoam Energy snow foam pre-wash on a Porsche 911\" width=\"1200\" height=\"896\" loading=\"lazy\"\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eContactless pre-clean with a stable clinging foam.\u003c\/strong\u003e The active foam lays down evenly across the whole body and clings to vertical panels for two to five minutes. In that window the surfactant formula gets under bonded road grime, bug splatter and light brake dust. The result after rinsing: a noticeably cleaner surface where the wash mitt glides with almost no resistance.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003epH-neutral and sealant-safe on every wash.\u003c\/strong\u003e With a pH value of 6.5 to 7.5, ActiFoam Energy leaves carnauba wax, ceramic coatings, polymer sealants and wraps untouched. That sets it apart from alkaline pre-cleaners (pH 10–13), which shorten the life of your sealant with weekly use.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOne litre covers 15 to 20 pre-washes.\u003c\/strong\u003e At a dose of 50 to 80 ml per foam-lance fill, a pre-wash with the 1-litre bottle costs about 0.80 EUR. With the 5-litre canister the price drops to around 0.42 EUR per use — more economical than most imported products in the snow foam segment.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Always lay the foam down on a dry body, not a wet one. Dry paint gives the foam far more grip and noticeably stretches the dwell time. Above 25 °C work panel by panel and don't let the foam dry on, or it leaves residue you'll only have to scrub off later. Warm water (30–40 °C) in the foam lance pushes the cleaning power up a notch — worth it in winter.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFoam lance, pump sprayer or bucket. Three ways, one formula.\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSONAX ActiFoam Energy works in three scenarios, each needing a different dilution. The foam lance gives the best result, but pump sprayer and hand wash do the job too.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the \u003cstrong\u003efoam lance on the pressure washer\u003c\/strong\u003e you mix 50 to 80 ml of concentrate into one litre of total volume — that's a ratio of 1:10 to 1:20. Less water (1:10) gives denser, drier foam with a longer dwell. More water (1:20) covers bigger areas but runs off vertical panels faster. Start at 1:15 and dial it in from there.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the \u003cstrong\u003epump sprayer\u003c\/strong\u003e you work with 15 to 25 ml per litre of water — ideal for targeted spots like wheel arches, door shuts or the front end full of bug splatter. As a \u003cstrong\u003ehand-wash shampoo\u003c\/strong\u003e you dissolve 50 to 80 ml in a 10-litre bucket of warm water. That said, ActiFoam Energy lacks the lubricity that shampoos bring for mitt glide. For regular contact washing as your only shampoo, there are better options.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAn often underrated factor in dosing is water temperature. Warm water (30–40 °C) noticeably boosts the cleaning power of the surfactants — in the foam lance and in the bucket alike. In winter, when you're working with ice-cold tap water, it pays to bump the dose up slightly or warm the water first.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou get the best foam quality with an adjustable \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-powerfoamer-schaumzerstauber\"\u003efoam lance\u003c\/a\u003e at 90 to 120 bar. A cheap universal lance limits the result, not the product. To put the economy in perspective: at a dose of 60 ml per wash through the foam lance, a pre-wash with the 5-litre canister costs about 0.42 EUR. Wash one car a week and the canister carries you through a year.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-actifoam-energy-schaumlanze-anwendung.jpg?v=1776079277\" alt=\"SONAX ActiFoam Energy applied with a foam lance\" width=\"896\" height=\"1200\" loading=\"lazy\"\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eIt loosens bug splatter. Not tar.\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSONAX ActiFoam Energy reliably loosens regular road grime, dried-on bug splatter and light fallout in the contactless pre-wash — that's its home turf. Especially through the summer months you save yourself the separate bug remover as a step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt hits its limits with heavily baked-on tar and hard industrial fallout. Tar doesn't react to the surfactant formula — for that you need a dedicated solvent-based tar remover. For fallout on wheels, an acidic iron remover like the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-felgenbeast-felgenreiniger\"\u003eSONAX FelgenBeast\u003c\/a\u003e does the trick. And a snow foam never replaces the contact wash that follows — it makes it safer by pulling most of the loose particles off first.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhat sets ActiFoam Energy apart from plain car shampoos in the foam lance is the cleaning power in contactless mode. A shampoo is built as a lubricant for the wash mitt, not as a standalone pre-cleaner. ActiFoam Energy was formulated specifically for use as a snow foam: the phosphate-free recipe loosens even dried-on bug splatter without any mechanical work. The signature energy-drink scent is no accident but a deliberate working companion — a real comfort gain over cleaners with a sharp chemical smell, especially in closed garages.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDay-to-day, this workflow has proven itself: lay ActiFoam Energy down over the whole body through the foam lance, bottom to top. Use the dwell time to work the wheels with a dedicated wheel cleaner in parallel. Then rinse everything off with the pressure washer — top to bottom, so the loosened dirt drains away. Only then do you bring in the wash mitt with fresh shampoo water.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor prepping used cars or customer vehicles in a detailing business, ActiFoam Energy is a solid first step too: it takes off the coarse dirt, shows you which areas are really problematic, and gives you a clean baseline to judge the paint condition. Only after the pre-wash can you reliably tell whether a car needs polishing or a simple sealant will do.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-actifoam-energy-ergebnis-sauberer-lack.jpg?v=1776079279\" alt=\"SONAX ActiFoam Energy result, clean paint after the pre-wash\" width=\"896\" height=\"1200\" loading=\"lazy\"\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eYour way into the pre-wash routine\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSONAX ActiFoam Energy sits between classic car shampoos and alkaline pre-cleaners. Stronger than a shampoo, but gentle enough for weekly use on sealed and wrapped vehicles. If you run a car with a ceramic coating, PPF film or carnauba wax, this product fits your wash routine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt's less suited to heavily soiled workshop vehicles or the first prep of a used car after months of neglect — here you're better off with an alkaline cleaner that has more cleaning power, but you'll need to renew the sealant afterwards.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnyone after a shampoo for contact washing alone, with no foam lance, will find a dedicated car shampoo the better pick. ActiFoam Energy is no all-rounder — it's a specialist for the contactless pre-wash, and that's exactly where its strength lies.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe concentrate comes in two sizes: a 1-litre bottle to get started and a 5-litre canister for high-volume washers and detailing businesses. The canister gives the better price per litre and covers 60 to 100 pre-washes at a weekly wash rhythm.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you've been working with a plain all-purpose cleaner in the foam lance before, you'll notice the difference in foam density and cling right away. Cheaper snow foams throw out plenty of foam, but it's thin and runs off vertical panels within seconds. ActiFoam Energy produces a creamy, clinging foam that holds noticeably longer even on doors and A-pillars.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs your way into the SONAX PROFILINE wash workflow, you pair ActiFoam Energy with a \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003epaint clean-up after the wash\u003c\/a\u003e — and you've got a pre-wash routine that protects your paint and leaves it visibly cleaner before the wash mitt even comes into play. This two-step process sounds like extra effort but saves polishing work long-term, because the wash-scratch rate drops measurably — especially on dark colours, where even the finest swirls show up instantly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-actifoam-energy-1-liter-5-liter.jpg?v=1776079283\" alt=\"SONAX ActiFoam Energy 1 litre and 5 litre sizes\" width=\"1200\" height=\"896\" loading=\"lazy\"\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53505264025935,"sku":"D1-SNX-6183000","price":14.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53505768292687,"sku":"D1-SNX-6183000_2","price":29.78,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"3 x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53505768325455,"sku":"D1-SNX-6183000_3","price":44.67,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":53505264976207,"sku":"D1-SNX-6185050","price":38.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-actifoam-energy-reinigungsschaum.png?v=1730449785"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-multistar-all-purpose-cleaner-universalreiniger","title":"PROFILINE MultiStar \"All-Purpose-Cleaner\" Universal Cleaner","description":"\u003ch2\u003eOne concentrate for every cleaning job — SONAX PROFILINE MultiStar\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE MultiStar do? This versatile all-purpose cleaner concentrate cuts through grease, oils, flash rust and general grime on vehicle surfaces inside and out — at a dilution you set yourself for different cleaning strengths, and in bulk containers up to 200 litres for cost-effective pro use.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn detailing businesses, wash bays and fleet care centres, the need for a reliable, cost-effective all-purpose cleaner is constant and high. Separate products for the interior, exterior paint, engine bay, wheels and machinery mean more stock to hold, frequent reorders and needless complexity. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiStar\u003c\/strong\u003e is the universal concentrate cleaner for all of these jobs: an alkaline cleaning formula that, across different dilution levels, handles most cleaning tasks in the vehicle and workplace — and thanks to container sizes from 1 litre to 200 litres it scales economically to any operation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eUniversally usable thanks to a variable dilution system.\u003c\/strong\u003e The MultiStar ships as a concentrate and you dilute it with water before use — the dilution rate sets the cleaning strength: low dilution (1:5 to 1:10) for heavy grime like engine oil, bitumen residue and stubborn dirt; medium dilution (1:20 to 1:50) for general vehicle cleaning; high dilution (1:50 to 1:100) for more sensitive areas such as interior plastics or lighter soiling. One concentrate, lots of uses.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eAlkaline formula reliably breaks down organic contaminants.\u003c\/strong\u003e The MultiStar's alkaline surfactant formula is tuned to dissolve organic grime: grease, oils, brake dust, tyre rubber and general vehicle dirt are loosened and made water-soluble by the combination of an alkaline pH and active surfactants. The formula plays nicely with most common vehicle surfaces — paint, plastic, rubber, metal and textile all respond well to the cleaner when you dilute it properly.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBulk containers up to 200 litres for cost-effective pro use.\u003c\/strong\u003e Container sizes run from 1 litre for small businesses and occasional users up to 200-litre drums for large operations and wash bays. The price per litre drops sharply as the container gets bigger, which makes the MultiStar especially appealing for businesses burning through large amounts of cleaner every day. The concentrate approach also cuts transport weight and storage space considerably compared with ready-to-use cleaners.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e For effective use we'd keep the MultiStar ready in labelled spray bottles at different dilutions — e.g. 1:10 for engine bay and wheels, 1:30 for general exterior cleaning, 1:50 for the interior. That way the right strength is always within reach without mixing fresh every time. Don't use it on paint in direct sun or on a very hot surface — alkaline cleaners drying off fast can leave streaks. For acid-resistant grime (limescale, mineral deposits) the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-multiclean-acid-kraftreiniger-sauer\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiClean Acid\u003c\/a\u003e is the better call, since alkaline cleaners can't drive the acidic dissolving reactions. Always rinse thoroughly to pull off any cleaner residue — especially on paint and rubber.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eConcentrate technology — why dilution is what makes the MultiStar so flexible\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe concentrate approach of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiStar\u003c\/strong\u003e brings a decisive economic and logistical edge over ready-to-use cleaners: the cleaning agents (surfactants, alkalis, builders) ship in highly concentrated form and only get diluted with water at the point of use. That means a 1-litre concentrate container holds the cleaning power for 50–100 litres of ready-to-use cleaner — a 1-litre tub of concentrate cleans as much as a 50-litre tub of ready-to-use cleaner, but carries only a fraction of the weight and volume.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe MultiStar's alkaline action rests on two mechanisms: first, the alkaline pH (typically pH 9–11 in the concentrate) raises the solubility of organic fat molecules — in an alkaline environment, fats and oils are saponified, which makes them water-soluble and easier to wipe off. Second, the surfactants wrap soil particles through micelle formation and suspend them in the watery cleaning solution, so they get carried off with the water when you rinse. This combination is very effective against most organic vehicle grime.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe dilution flexibility lets you use the same base cleaner for very different cleaning strengths: in the engine bay, where stubborn oil and grease come off hard, heat-resistant surfaces, a strong concentration (1:5) is right and the surfaces handle the higher alkalinity. For the cabin, where delicate plastics, textiles and Alcantara get treated, a strong dilution (1:50 or more) is needed to avoid surface damage. Getting the ratio right is the key skill — too diluted and the cleaner doesn't bite; too little diluted and it can attack surfaces or leave residue.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor businesses running the MultiStar through foam lances or pressure washers, foaming behaviour matters: at the right dilution and used in snow-foam pre-wash mode, the MultiStar foams evenly and clings, which extends dwell time on dirty surfaces and improves the cleaning result. You can tune the foam consistency through the dilution and the right foam-lance nozzles.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the MultiStar right — dilution ratios for every job\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUsing the MultiStar concentrate starts with the right dilution rate for the job at hand. For engine washing and heavy exterior grime: dilution 1:5 to 1:10 (10–20 % concentrate) — spray straight onto the dirty surface, let it dwell 2–3 minutes without drying off, then rinse with water. For wheel cleaning and underbody washing: dilution 1:10 to 1:20 (5–10 % concentrate) — same kind of application as the engine wash.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor general vehicle cleaning and pre-cleaning: dilution 1:20 to 1:50 (2–5 % concentrate) — suited as a foam-lance pre-cleaner or for hand washing with the sponge. This dilution is gentle on paint and plastic surfaces and leaves no damaging alkali residue. For interior cleaning and textiles: dilution 1:50 to 1:100 (1–2 % concentrate) — extra gentle on delicate surfaces; always test on an inconspicuous spot before going over Alcantara or sensitive coatings.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eKey application notes: always dilute the MultiStar fresh and don't store diluted solutions in spray bottles for long, since diluted alkaline solutions lose strength over time and can go off through microbial growth. When working with undiluted concentrate, watch your skin and eye protection — highly concentrated alkaline solutions can cause skin irritation. Keep the concentrate itself in dry, cool storage — undiluted and stored right, the concentrate stays stable for several years.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the MultiStar fits — when the all-purpose cleaner is the most efficient choice\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiStar\u003c\/strong\u003e is especially efficient in businesses that want to cover a broad range of cleaning jobs with a single product. Detailing businesses with mixed vehicle types (cars, vans, trucks) value the flexibility: one concentrate unit can handle the van's engine bay, the car's interior clean and the truck's pre-clean — each at the right dilution. Stock keeping gets simpler, ordering gets leaner.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFleet carers and fleet managers on regular cleaning cycles get the most out of the bulk containers: the 25-litre or 60-litre container keeps supply steady without frequent reorders, and the cheaper per-unit pricing on bulk cuts the cleaning cost per vehicle. The 200-litre drum is built for central cleaning installations where the cleaner feeds straight into machines or foam generators.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCompared with specialised cleaners like the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-multiclean-alkaline-vorreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiClean Alkaline\u003c\/a\u003e — developed as an optimised pre-cleaner for cold-foam pre-washing — the MultiStar offers a wider dilution range and more uses, but in turn less specialisation on the pre-wash side. If you only do pre-washing, you're better served by the MultiClean Alkaline; if you want a single cleaner for every job, the MultiStar concentrate has you covered.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe MultiStar compared — all-purpose cleaner vs. specialist cleaner in the pro shop\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhether an all-purpose cleaner concentrate like the MultiStar or a range of specialist cleaners is the better call comes down to how the business is set up. An all-purpose cleaner brings simplicity, savings through bulk and flexibility — ideal for smaller to mid-sized operations that don't want to cover every cleaning job with a dedicated product. For especially demanding jobs (limescale removal → acidic cleaner, wheels heavily loaded with iron particles → dedicated wheel cleaner, sensitive displays → SensitiveSurface Detailer) specialist products are clearly superior.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA proven strategy in well-set-up detailing businesses is the combination: the MultiStar as the base all-purpose cleaner for 80 % of all daily cleaning jobs, backed by one to three specialist products for the cases where the all-purpose cleaner falls short. This setup maximises economic efficiency (one main product in bulk) while keeping cleaning performance optimal for specific needs. The combination MultiStar + MultiClean Acid + a dedicated wheel cleaner, for example, fully covers the whole spectrum of alkaline and acidic cleaning needs in the vehicle space.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgainst all-purpose cleaners from other makers, the SONAX PROFILINE MultiStar offers the edge of proven system compatibility with other PROFILINE products and a professional formulation built for the specific demands of the vehicle segment. Household all-purpose cleaners are often tuned for other surfaces (floors, glass) and can leave residue or streaks on vehicle paint and sensitive plastics. The PROFILINE concentrate is tested on vehicle applications and certified accordingly for its compatibility with vehicle surfaces.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy the SONAX PROFILINE MultiStar — containers, price tiers and shop recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiStar\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 1 litre, 5 litres, 10 litres, 25 litres, 60 litres and 200 litres. For single users and small businesses the 1-litre container is a manageable entry size — the concentrate goes a long way and a litre lasts a small business several weeks or months. The 5-litre container is the most economical standard size for mid-sized operations, while the 25-litre canister is the go-to for larger businesses with daily demand.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe price gap between the 1-litre and 60-litre containers is considerable — per 100 ml of concentrate, the price on the 60-litre container sits well below the price on the 1-litre. For wash bays and fleet care getting through several litres of cleaner a day, the investment in the big container pays off fast. The 200-litre drum is built for industrial cleaning installations and central supply setups, where the cleaner feeds straight into dosing pumps or automatic mixing systems.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe bottom line: the SONAX PROFILINE MultiStar is the most economical choice for businesses after a reliable, flexibly usable all-purpose cleaner in professional quality. The concentrate approach, the wide dilution flexibility and the bulk availability make it the ideal base cleaner in the PROFILINE range — backed by specialist products for particular cleaning needs.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53505896055119,"sku":"D1-SNX-6273410","price":9.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53505896087887,"sku":"D1-SNX-6273410_2","price":19.78,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3 x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53505896120655,"sku":"D1-SNX-6273410_3","price":29.67,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":53505896153423,"sku":"D1-SNX-6275050","price":38.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"10 liters","offer_id":53505904017743,"sku":"D1-SNX-6276000","price":67.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"25 liters","offer_id":53505904050511,"sku":"D1-SNX-6277050","price":165.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"60 liters","offer_id":53505904083279,"sku":"D1-SNX-6278000","price":510.03,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"200 liters","offer_id":53505904116047,"sku":"D1-SNX-6279000","price":1582.7,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-multistar-all-purpose-cleaner-universalreiniger.png?v=1730463356"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish","title":"PROFILINE NP \"03-06\" High-Gloss Polish (Finish)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eFlawless high gloss as the final polishing step — SONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06 do? This fine high-gloss finishing polish pulls out the last holograms and buffer trails, brings up a mirror-like clear-coat shine and gets the paint ready for sealants and ceramic coatings — perfect as the final polishing step after abrasive correction stages.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn a multi-stage polishing job, the finishing polish is the real test of skill: it comes after the cutting polish and the medium correction polish, and its job is to clear out the last fine holograms, buffer trails and micro-scratches completely — leaving the clear coat with the kind of depth, clarity and reflection that sells a fresh detail. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/strong\u003e is the pro high-gloss finishing polish for exactly this last step: very fine cut, low haze, and a gloss that sets the paint up perfectly for sealing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eUltra-fine cut for hologram-free high gloss.\u003c\/strong\u003e The NP 03-06 carries very finely milled abrasives that level the buffer trails left by cutting and medium polishes without laying down fresh scratches of their own. What you get is a paint surface with maximum reflection and minimal orange peel — the base for that mirror-deep gloss a freshly detailed car is meant to throw back at you.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBalanced viscosity for machine and hand work.\u003c\/strong\u003e The NP 03-06 is mixed so it runs on rotary and dual-action machines just as well as by hand on small panels. The viscosity lets it spread evenly across the pad, keeps it from slinging during machine work and stops it drying out too fast — which really matters on bigger panels, where you need to keep the working time consistent.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eIdeal as a pre-coating step before sealing.\u003c\/strong\u003e A finishing polish before you seal isn't optional if maximum sealant durability and top gloss are the goal. The NP 03-06 leaves no protective film and no waxy fillers — once it's done, the clear coat is ready for the degrease step and the sealant, with no abrasive residue getting in the way of coating adhesion.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e The NP 03-06 gives its best with a finishing foam pad on a dual-action machine — speed 3–4 (depending on the model), slow, overlapping passes. For the last pass, drop the speed to 2–3 to keep heat down and even the result out. Dose the polish sparingly: a small amount on the pad, spread it by working it in slowly by hand, then switch the machine on. After polishing, buff the area off with a clean microfibre and check for holograms straight away — under raking light (side light) you'll spot any leftover buffer trails most clearly. Once that check passes, the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e follows as the degrease step before sealing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAbrasive technology: how the NP 03-06 high-gloss finishing polish clears holograms\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA finishing polish works by mechanical micro-abrasion: the finely milled abrasives in the high-gloss polish cut the clear-coat surface at micrometre level, smoothing out the grooves and scratch marks left by earlier polishing stages and creating a surface that's as flat and uniform as possible. Light hitting a flat surface bounces back evenly — that's the physics behind the so-called depth gloss and the mirror reflection you see after a successful finishing polish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe cut of the NP 03-06 is pitched just right for the final polishing stage: fine enough not to lay down new holograms, but still strong enough to clear out the buffer trails from the preceding medium correction polish completely. That balancing act is typical of finishing polishes — too fine a cut won't fully remove buffer trails, too coarse a cut creates holograms of its own that need another finishing pass to fix. The NP 03-06 carries the \"03-06\" in its name, which marks where it sits in the SONAX polishing range.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAnother upside of finishing-polish technology is what detailers call \"darkening\" — on dark paint (black, dark blue, dark grey) a noticeably deeper colour comes up after the finishing polish, because the surface is so flat and clear that more light gets into the paint and reflects back. The effect is less dramatic on light colours, but still clearly there: the paint looks fresher, livelier and more even than before. On cars with black or dark paint especially, the finishing polish is the most visible step in the whole detail.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the NP 03-06 right — pad, machine and technique for the best results\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe finishing polish assumes the prep is fully done: dirt, fallout and tar removed (decon step), the paint prepped with a correction polish, and the surface clean and dry. A finishing polish on an unprepped, heavily scratched surface can't clear the fine scratches completely — the step only pays off when the stages before it were done right.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePad choice: for machine work, finishing foam pads (soft, no cut of their own) carry the polish's fine abrasives evenly onto the surface without adding any cut. Hard foam pads or microfibre pads with their own cut aren't ideal for a pure finishing polish — the NP 03-06 is built for soft finishing pads. For hand work, use a soft, clean applicator — on small areas (headlights, small dent zones) the polish works well by hand too, but on large panels machine work is a must for an even result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTechnique: lay the polish down, spread it at the lowest speed, then run several overlapping passes across the panel at medium speed. The last pass goes at a slightly reduced speed and light pressure — this final pass levels the faint cross-marks the polishing leaves behind. Watch the dry-down: if the polish flashes off too fast (in the sun, on hot paint) it won't work properly — ideally polish in the garage or in the shade. After buffing off with microfibre, check for holograms straight away — any leftover buffer trails show up best under side-on artificial light.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the NP 03-06 fits — when a finishing polish is the right step\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe NP 03-06 is the final polishing step before any sealant or ceramic coating. You reach for it when there are still fine buffer trails or holograms left after the correction polish that need clearing before you seal. Typically the NP 03-06 is step 3 or 4 in a multi-stage polishing job: after the cutting polish (hard pad + cutting compound) and the correction polish (medium pad + medium polish) comes the finishing polish as the last abrasive step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn cars that don't need heavy correction (nearly new paint, or paint with very fine swirl marks only visible at an angle), the NP 03-06 can also run as the only polishing stage — a so-called \"one-step finish\". Here you pair a lightly cutting pad (combo pad) with the finishing polish to knock back light swirl marks and bring up maximum gloss in one go. That approach saves time, but it isn't enough for deeper scratches and heavier holograms — there a multi-stage process with a proper correction polish is unavoidable.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn delicate cars with a thin clear coat (often older cars after several previous-owner polishes, or certain makes like Porsche and some BMW models) the finishing polish is especially valuable, because it gets by with minimal paint removal — the light cut clears only the buffer trails, without taking off more clear coat than needed. Paint-depth readings before the job help judge how many polishing passes still make sense without thinning the clear coat too far.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eNP 03-06 vs. PerfectFinish — which finishing polish for which job?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE range has two finishing polishes for different demands. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish \"4\/6\"\u003c\/a\u003e sits as the more aggressive finishing polish with a slightly higher cut — it's built especially for use after P2000 sandpaper (hence the \"up to P2000\" tag) and suits situations where a bit more cut is needed after sanding to clear the sanding marks completely. The NP 03-06, by contrast, is the finer finishing polish for the last step after the polishing correction stage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn practice: if you're polishing after wet sanding (e.g. after removing a deep dent or a respray), you pick the PerfectFinish as the first polishing step and optionally the NP 03-06 as the final hologram removal. If you've worked a normal detail without sanding using a correction polish, you only need the NP 03-06 for the finish step. For detailers who want both scenarios covered day-to-day, having both polishes on hand makes sense — the PerfectFinish for sanding-heavy work, the NP 03-06 for pure high-gloss finish steps after polishing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn pad compatibility and machine suitability the two finishing polishes are similar — the call comes down mainly to the cut you want and the prep stage before it. For maximum flexibility in a pro setup we recommend keeping both polishes available, since the exact state of a car often only becomes clear on the lift and under correction lighting.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy SONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06 — bottle sizes and value\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in three sizes: 250 ml for beginners and occasional use, 1 litre for regular detailers and pro detailing businesses, and 5 litres for high-throughput operations or for training sessions. The price per millilitre drops noticeably with the bigger bottle — for businesses polishing several cars a week, the 1-litre or 5-litre size is the most economical choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePer application on an average car (saloon or compact) you'll use about 15–30 ml of polish, depending on the number of passes and the pad size. The 1-litre bottle covers around 30–60 full car polishes that way — excellent value for regular use. The 250-ml bottle suits beginners who want to get to know the polish first, or special jobs on small areas (bonnet, roof, single panels after a spot repair).\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs a complete finish workflow we recommend: NP 03-06 (high-gloss finishing polish) → \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e (degrease\/panel wipe) → \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-polymernetshield-lackversiegelung\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PolymerNetShield\u003c\/a\u003e or a ceramic coating. This three-step finishing workflow makes sure the paint glosses to the max after the detail, is fully degreased and stays protected long-term under a quality sealant — the standard for professional detailing results.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53506699362639,"sku":"D1-SNX-2081410","price":15.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53506660401487,"sku":"D1-SNX-2083000","price":37.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":53506660499791,"sku":"D1-SNX-2085000","price":93.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53506699395407,"sku":"D1-SNX-2081410_2","price":26.48,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53506699428175,"sku":"D1-SNX-2081410_3","price":38.91,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53506660434255,"sku":"D1-SNX-2083000_2","price":67.86,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3 x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53506660467023,"sku":"D1-SNX-2083000_3","price":101.79,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish.png?v=1730477476"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur","title":"PROFILINE PerfectFinish \"4\/6\" Finish Polish (up to P2000)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRemove sanding marks after P2000 and bring up a deep gloss — SONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish do? The \"4\/6\" finish polish pulls out sanding marks up to P2000 grit with no residue, levels the paint after wet-sanding and brings up a mirror-deep gloss — the go-to first polishing step after wet or dry sanding on paint correction and spot repairs.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn pro paint sanding and when you're chasing out deep paint damage, the jump from sandpaper to polish is the step that makes or breaks the job: wet-sanding with P1500 or P2000 takes off orange peel, deep scratches or paint runs, but it leaves the typical sanding haze (the \"holy spirit\" pattern) that has to come out completely before you seal. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/strong\u003e is the pro finish polish built for exactly this hand-off: cutty enough to clear P2000 sanding marks completely, fine enough to lay down a glass-clear, hologram-free gloss while it does.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBuilt specifically for use after wet-sanding up to P2000.\u003c\/strong\u003e The cut of the PerfectFinish is dialled to the \"4\/6\" range on the SONAX scale — meaning: strong enough to level the micro-grooves left by P1500–P2000 paper, without throwing down fresh deep holograms that would force another finish step. In a lot of cases the PerfectFinish is the only polishing step you need after wet-sanding to get the surface seal-ready.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMade for machine polishing with rotary and dual-action machines.\u003c\/strong\u003e The PerfectFinish formula is tuned for the machine: even viscosity so it spreads nicely on the pad, enough working time at moderate temperatures, and a flash-off phase that makes the result easy to read. It works with rotary machines (more cut, for heavier sanding marks) as well as dual-action machines (less heat build-up, for that final finishing pass).\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLeaves clearcoat that's seal-ready straight away.\u003c\/strong\u003e Once you've buffed off the PerfectFinish the surface is free of sanding marks, holograms and polishing-oil residue — the clearcoat sits in a state that's ready for a sealant or ceramic coating right after a panel-wipe step. That straight-to-seal readiness is what separates a good finish polish from a mediocre one that leaves fine residue behind after the buff.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e The PerfectFinish gives its best with a medium-hard combo pad on the rotary or a lightly abrasive foam pad on the dual-action — depends how heavy the sanding marks are. After sanding, rinse the panel with clean water and let it dry fully before you lay the polish down. Spread it at low speed first, then run several overlapping passes at medium speed. Drop the speed for the last pass to get an even, hologram-free result. After buffing, degrease with \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e to pull every bit of polishing oil before you seal. On very deep sanding marks (P1000 or coarser) we'd run an intermediate step with a medium-cut correction stage first, then bring in the PerfectFinish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe PerfectFinish abrasive tech — what \"up to P2000\" means in paint sanding\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \"up to P2000\" label in the description of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/strong\u003e is an important spec: it tells you up to which sandpaper grit the polish can clear the resulting sanding marks completely. P2000 paper has a very fine grit (2000 works out to a mean particle size of about 10 microns) and leaves correspondingly fine sanding marks. P1500 leaves slightly deeper grooves (mean particle size about 13 microns), P1000 deeper still (about 18 microns).\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eEach of these grits leaves sanding marks with a typical depth and width — and the polish has to be able to level those grooves through its abrasive particles. The PerfectFinish carries abrasives whose size and hardness are dialled so they level P2000 grooves effectively. For deeper grooves (P1000 and coarser) the PerfectFinish would need several passes or simply isn't enough — here you're better off with a cuttier correction stage that brings the grooves down to P2000 level first, then the PerfectFinish. This step principle holds for every polishing and sanding process: each stage works the grooves of the one before it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \"4\/6\" rating on the SONAX scale puts the PerfectFinish as a medium-fine finish polish: cuttier than a pure high-gloss finish polish, but finer than typical correction-stage polishes. That spot makes the PerfectFinish unusually versatile: it works both as the only polishing step after fine wet-sanding and as the second-to-last step before a further high-gloss finish polish such as the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/a\u003e. Which way is better depends on the result you want, the state of the car and the time you've got.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe physics behind the jump from sanding to polishing is blending: every sanding or polishing stage lays down a new, finer pattern of grooves that overlays the pattern of the stage before. When the new pattern is finer than light's refractive-index threshold, the surface reads as optically smooth. The PerfectFinish reworks the P2000 grooves with abrasives so fine that the surface micro-structures left after polishing sit below what the human eye can pick up — so the surface comes off looking glossy.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing PerfectFinish right — pad choice and technique for the best result\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUsing the finish polish starts with the right pad, and that's what decides the result. For use after wet-sanding (P1500–P2000) reach for combo pads with a touch of their own cut, which back up the PerfectFinish's correction power and let you clear sanding marks in a few passes. For use as a second finish step after a correction stage, softer finish pads are the call — they level the light polishing marks left behind. Pad hardness drives the effective cut directly: a hard pad with a medium-cut polish like the PerfectFinish can land roughly the same overall as a soft pad with a more aggressive polish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMachine choice: the rotary gives you more cut on sanding marks than the dual-action and is the faster option on heavy P1500 marks. The dual-action keeps heat down and is the better call on delicate paint or as a finishing step to minimise holograms. A lot of pros run the PerfectFinish as a combo: first rounds on the rotary at medium speed to clear the sanding marks, last pass on the dual-action at low speed for that hologram-free deep gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eChecking the result: read your polishing work under correction light (an LED panel light or daylight at a low angle). Leftover sanding marks show up under this light as parallel line patterns, holograms as random swirl patterns. If P2000 marks are still showing after several passes with the PerfectFinish, you've either got too little pad pressure, too low a speed or the wrong pad — a common slip-up is switching to too soft a pad too early, one that doesn't level the marks enough.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the PerfectFinish earns its keep — paint correction, spot repair and respray\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/strong\u003e is hard to do without across several pro jobs. Paint residue and runs after a respray: fresh paint sometimes throws runs, sags and orange-peel that you take off mechanically by sanding and polishing. Wet-sanding with P2000 levels the surface, and the PerfectFinish brings the gloss to its finished level — a standard workflow in body and paint shops.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDeep single scratches and stone-chip follow-up: after a spot repair (sanding out and partial respray) you have to buff the repaired patch and bring it up to the gloss level of the surrounding panel. The PerfectFinish is the right tool for that transition zone: it clears the spot-repair sanding marks and lays down a gloss that blends seamlessly into the surrounding paint. On small repair patches you can also work the PerfectFinish by hand with an applicator when the repair spot is too small for the machine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGeneral paint correction on badly knocked-about cars: on cars with deep swirl marks, heavy holograms or mechanical damage you need a multi-stage process — a coarse correction stage for the main work, then the PerfectFinish for the hand-off to deep gloss. In this context the PerfectFinish replaces the separate sanding-and-finish combo once the previous stage has already brought things to P1500–P2000 level. For this broad use the 5-litre size is especially handy for shops with high polishing volume.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePerfectFinish vs. NP 03-06 — which finish polish for which job\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe most common question when buying a finish polish from the SONAX PROFILINE range: when PerfectFinish, when \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eNP 03-06\u003c\/a\u003e? The answer is in the prep before it: the PerfectFinish \"4\/6\" is built for situations where the surface was sanded before polishing (P1500–P2000 wet-sanding) and heavier sanding marks are sitting there. The NP 03-06, on the other hand, is the finer finish polish for the last step after a correction polish — when there are no sanding marks, just light polishing marks and holograms from the previous polishing stage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePut plainly: if a car comes in for polishing after a respray or after wet-sanding, the PerfectFinish is the first polishing step. If a car comes in for finishing after a normal cutty correction stage (polishing with no prior sanding), the NP 03-06 is the right step. For detailers who want to cover both scenarios we'd say keep both polishes on hand — the car and its prep decide which one comes out. In a two-stage combo (PerfectFinish after sanding, then NP 03-06 as the last finish) you can pull a standout result on paint that needs maximum gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor beginners who only want to buy one finish polish: the NP 03-06 is the safer all-rounder for cars with no prior sanding. The PerfectFinish is a must on cars with prior wet-sanding — on cars with no sanding marks you can run it too, but it takes more passes than the NP 03-06 to land a hologram-free result. So the PerfectFinish earns its place on sanding-mark know-how, not on pure gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying SONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish — sizes and getting your money's worth\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml, 1 litre and 5 litre, plus 2-pack and 3-pack sets. The 250 ml size suits beginners and occasional users, and works for sizing up the polish before a bigger order. The 1 litre is the most economical standard size for regular detailers and smaller prep shops — a litre runs to about 30–50 full car polishes. The 5 litre is aimed at body shops, paint shops and detailing shops with high polishing volume that use the polish daily and need the lowest price per litre.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor shops that run wet-sanding as a regular part of the service (paint correction, respray buffing, spot repair), the PerfectFinish is a must-have part of the polishing kit. Paired with the NP 03-06 for the final high-gloss finish, the Prepare for the panel-wipe step and a sealant, the PerfectFinish covers the full post-sanding workflow. That workflow is a pro standard in body shops and high-end detailing shops.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBottom line, the SONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish is the product for every situation where you need to clear sanding marks up to P2000 and bring up a deep gloss. If you regularly run wet-sand prep jobs, buff out spot repairs or bring resprays up to gloss, you need the PerfectFinish as a fixed part of your kit — it closes the gap between sandpaper and high-gloss finish polish precisely and reliably.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53506852782415,"sku":"D1-SNX-2241410","price":20.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53506852815183,"sku":"D1-SNX-2243000","price":56.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":53506852847951,"sku":"D1-SNX-2245000","price":172.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53506852880719,"sku":"D1-SNX-2241410_2","price":36.76,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53506852913487,"sku":"D1-SNX-2241410_3","price":55.14,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53506852946255,"sku":"D1-SNX-2243000_2","price":99.9,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3 x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53506852979023,"sku":"D1-SNX-2243000_3","price":146.79,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur.png?v=1730639593"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-polymernetshield-lackversiegelung","title":"PROFILINE PolymerNetShield Paint Sealant (6 Months)","description":"\u003ch2\u003ePaint sealant with polymer technology — the SONAX PROFILINE PolymerNetShield\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE PolymerNetShield do? This polymer-based spray paint sealant protects freshly washed and polished vehicles from dirt, UV and weathering for up to 6 months — you just spray it on, no long dwell time, no polisher.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA professional paint sealant doesn't have to be a big job: the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PolymerNetShield\u003c\/strong\u003e shows that serious paint protection is possible without spending hours on it. You spray the polymer sealant straight onto wet or dry paint after the wash, it spreads evenly across the surface and lays down a durable protective film that holds for up to 6 months. The result: deep gloss, strong water beading and noticeably easier upkeep — with barely any working time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePolymer protective film that lasts 6 months.\u003c\/strong\u003e The polymer formula lays a tough protective film over the paint that shrugs off water, dirt and UV. Compared to traditional waxes the polymer protection lasts far longer and handles heat far better — it survives several washes and doesn't need re-applying after every shower. For cars that go through the wash regularly, the polymer sealant is the far more practical pick.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSimple spray-on application, no polishing.\u003c\/strong\u003e Unlike ceramic coatings or paste waxes, the polymer sealant needs no special pads, no polisher and no long dwell times. You spray it straight onto freshly washed paint — wet or dry — and either spread it with a microfibre cloth or rinse it off evenly during the final rinse — ideal as a regular sealant top-up in your care routine.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDeep gloss and colour pop on every paint shade.\u003c\/strong\u003e The polymer formula makes the paint colour come alive and pushes the depth of gloss, especially on dark and metallic finishes. On freshly polished or ceramic-coated cars the sealant film makes a real difference as a finishing step — extra colour pop and mirror shine.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Lay the PolymerNetShield down right after the wash on still-wet paint — that's when it spreads most evenly. Work in sections (bonnet, roof, sides) and wipe each one with a clean microfibre cloth or rinse it off with clean water. Keep it off hot surfaces and out of direct sun, because polymer sealants dry faster at high temperatures and can leave streaks. For maximum durability at the next wash, use the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-reload-shampoo-versiegelungsshampoo\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Reload Shampoo\u003c\/a\u003e — the caring sealant shampoo actively maintains and rebuilds the polymer film.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePolymer technology: how the PolymerNetShield seals the paint\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolymer paint sealants work on a different principle than traditional carnauba waxes or ceramic coatings. Polymers are synthetic macromolecules that bond electrostatically to the paint surface and stretch a three-dimensional protective grid — the namesake \"NetShield\" — across the paint. This network grips far stronger and more evenly than melted-on wax, because it anchors into the micro-pores and tiny irregularities of the clear coat instead of just sitting on top.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe spray formula of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PolymerNetShield\u003c\/strong\u003e tunes this technology for easy application without special gear. After you apply it, the polymer chains link to the paint surface and form a water-repellent, UV-resistant layer as they dry off. That layer is thin enough not to change the look of the paint, and stable enough to fend off the usual hits from rain, dust, dirt and sun for several months without breaking down.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCompared to carnauba wax, the polymer protection handles heat and the car wash far better: where waxes melt at high temperatures and lose protection after every automatic wash, the polymer matrix stays stable through temperature swings. That makes polymer technology especially appealing for owners who run their car through the wash regularly and still want lasting protection without re-waxing every time. The polymer layer's ability to hold on even under moisture and mechanical stress is a key technical edge over conventional care waxes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAnother important part of polymer technology is the built-in UV protection. Ultraviolet light is one of the main drivers of paint oxidation — the process where clear coats go dull, colours fade and pigments bleach out. The polymer layer acts as a light-absorbing barrier and cuts down the direct UV contact with the clear coat. Over several months this can make a visible difference to the state of the paint — cars with regular polymer sealant look noticeably fresher years down the line than unprotected cars of the same age.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eApplying the PolymerNetShield correctly — step by step to the best result\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eApplying the polymer sealant is far simpler than ceramic coatings or paste waxes, but it still pays to work carefully for the best results. Step 1: wash the car and, if needed, decon it first — pull off tar or fallout particles if there's heavier contamination. The paint has to be clean before the sealant goes on — dirt trapped under the sealant means an uneven finish and shorter durability.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eStep 2: spray the product onto wet or dry paint — section by section, not the whole car at once. On wet surfaces, spray and rinse off evenly, or spread it with a microfibre cloth and lightly buff. On dry surfaces, rub the sealant in evenly with one microfibre cloth and buff with a second clean one. Don't work in full sun or on hot paint — at too high a temperature the polymer solution dries unevenly and leaves streaks that only come off with another cleaning step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eStep 3: once it's fully dry (ideally 1–2 hours after application) check the car for even coverage. On dark paint the coverage shows up especially well — the sealed area shows clearly stronger colour pop and water beading. Keep it away from heavy rain or washing for the first 24 hours — the polymer layer needs a little time to fully cure and build optimal adhesion. On hard-driven cars it's worth refreshing every 6 months or after 15–20 washes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor pros and detailing businesses there's also a proven efficiency trick: work the product straight into the final rinse during the wash. Add a small amount to the last wash-water bucket, wipe the car down with it and rinse with clean water — that lays down a fresh polymer layer with every wash, no extra effort. This method works especially well with regular car care on a 4-week cycle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePaint sealant for beginners and pros — where each one fits\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PolymerNetShield\u003c\/strong\u003e is for owners and detailers who want regular paint protection with minimal effort. It suits owners with no experience of pro ceramic coatings who are looking for a longer-lasting alternative to standard care products for the first time — the simple spray application with no special tools makes it an easy way in. For cars that go through the wash regularly, the polymer sealant is ideal: it survives several wash cycles and only needs reapplying every 6 months.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIt also makes a lot of sense on freshly polished cars as the final sealing step after the polish — a polish with no sealant afterwards leaves the fresh clear coat unprotected and prone to fresh contamination and UV damage. The polymer sealant protects the polishing result and stretches the life of the gloss noticeably. On cars that already wear a ceramic coating, you can lay the product on as a caring layer over the ceramic base — it boosts the protection and gives the ceramic surface fresh pop.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe polymer spray sealant is less suited to heavily soiled work vans or cars in areas with extreme pollution, where a tougher ceramic coating works out more economical long-term. Don't use it on matte paint either — the gloss-boosting polymers change the matte finish and can create unwanted shine. In seasonal car care the polymer sealant works brilliantly as a spring and autumn top-up, to protect the paint against whatever each season throws at it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePolymer paint sealant compared — when ceramic, when polymer?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePaint and protection products in detailing differ fundamentally in technology, durability and effort. The polymer spray sealant positions itself as an accessible, regularly renewable protection solution, while ceramic coatings like the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-one-paint-keramikversiegelung\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE CeramicCoating \"CC\" One\u003c\/a\u003e are built for multi-year protection with professional prep.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCeramic coatings typically offer 2–5 years of durability and much higher hardness — they stand up better to chemicals, heat and mechanical stress. The downside: ceramic coatings need intensive paint prep (polish, decon), specific application conditions and professional know-how to lay down. A mistake during ceramic application can lead to permanent hazing. The PolymerNetShield, by contrast, is forgiving: apply it under slightly less-than-ideal conditions and you can fix it without trouble or simply renew it at the next care cycle. For detailers prepping cars for customers with a ceramic coating, the polymer spray sealant works as a maintenance product between ceramic refresh cycles.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-ceramic-spraycoating-spruehversiegelung-keramik\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Ceramic SprayCoating\u003c\/a\u003e offers an alternative middle ground between polymer and ceramic properties for more demanding users who want more protection than a pure polymer sealant but want to avoid the effort of a full ceramic coating. The choice between polymer, ceramic spray and full ceramic coating comes down to how much protection you need, your budget and the prep time you have.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the SONAX PROFILINE PolymerNetShield — recommendation and care set\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe polymer sealant is the right call for anyone after long-lasting paint protection without the professional effort. Available in 340 ml (single bottle) and as a 2-pack and 3-pack for regular users and detailing businesses sealing several cars in one care cycle. The 3-pack gives the best price per millilitre and is ideal for detailing businesses or owners with several cars — one litre of polymer sealant covers several full applications depending on vehicle size.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs the ideal combination for regular care cycles we recommend the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-reload-shampoo-versiegelungsshampoo\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Reload Shampoo\u003c\/a\u003e as a care shampoo between sealing cycles — the Reload Shampoo carries active care polymers that rebuild the existing polymer protection with every wash and stretch overall durability noticeably. Cars you want to polish before sealing get a SONAX PROFILINE polish as the prep step first — then the polymer sealant locks in the freshly polished result for the long haul.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBottom line, the PolymerNetShield is the answer for anyone who wants professional paint protection with simple handling and predictable results. Six months of durability, deep gloss and fuss-free application make it the foundation of an efficient paint-care programme — whether for a private car or as a base sealant in a professional detailing business with a rolling roster of customer cars.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"340 ml","offer_id":53519388770639,"sku":"D1-SNX-2233000","price":23.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 340ml Set","offer_id":53519388803407,"sku":"D1-SNX-2233000_2","price":42.26,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 340ml Set","offer_id":53519388836175,"sku":"D1-SNX-2233000_3","price":63.39,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-polymernetshield-lackversiegelung_340ml.png?v=1730641143"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-cut-finish-einstufen-politur","title":"PROFILINE Cut+Finish \"5\/5\" One-Step Polish (up to P1500)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRemove sanding marks and get high gloss in one step with SONAX Cut+Finish\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat can SONAX Cut+Finish do? A one-step polish with maximum cut (5\/5) and maximum gloss (5\/5) — it pulls out sanding marks up to P1500 and lays down a high-gloss finish in a single pass, silicone-free and low-dust.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn professional paint correction there's one situation that keeps coming back: the paint has been wet-sanded — whether to fix a defect, after a spot-repair respray, or to knock down orange peel — and now the sanding marks have to go. Normally that means two steps: a cutting compound to take down the marks, then a finishing polish for the gloss. \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX Cut+Finish\u003c\/strong\u003e rolls both steps into one product. With a cut rating of 5\/5 and a gloss rating of 5\/5, it removes sanding marks from paper up to P1500 grit and leaves a high-gloss, hologram-free surface in a single pass. For workshops and detailers who need to get from sanding to a sale-ready result fast, that's a serious time-saver.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMaximum cut at maximum gloss.\u003c\/strong\u003e A 5\/5 for cut and a 5\/5 for finish is unique in the SONAX PROFILINE range — no other product in the line hits the top mark in both categories. The special abrasive blend breaks down progressively as you polish: it starts aggressive to take down the sanding marks, then ends with a fine break-down that builds the gloss. That behaviour is exactly why a single pass does the job where other products need two separate steps.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSilicone-free and workshop-ready.\u003c\/strong\u003e In a bodyshop, being silicone-free isn't optional, it's mandatory. Silicone-bearing polishes can cause craters and fish-eyes on a respray — a problem that only shows up after the paint goes on and then writes off the whole job. So Cut+Finish is deliberately formulated silicone-free and can be used right next to the spray booth with no contamination risk.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLow-dust working with a long open time.\u003c\/strong\u003e The polish stays wet and workable through the whole pass without dusting or drying out. That long open time gives you the freedom to extend the pass when the paint calls for it — with no worry about polish dust settling into shut-lines and trim gaps. The wipe-off afterwards comes away in one go, no re-cleaning needed.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Run Cut+Finish on a rotary with a medium-hard to hard foam pad (orange or white in the SONAX colour system). Start at 1200 to 1500 rpm and step up gradually to a maximum of 1800 rpm if you need it. Drop three or four pea-sized dots onto the pad, spread the polish at low speed and work in rows with about 50 percent overlap. Polish each section until the polish goes clear — that's the moment the abrasives have fully broken down and the gloss comes up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCut 5\/5 and gloss 5\/5 — how Cut+Finish pulls off both in one step\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe secret of \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX Cut+Finish\u003c\/strong\u003e is in the abrasive technology: the abrasive particles in the formula are built to break down progressively under pressure and heat. At the start of the pass the particles are big enough to take down the coarse sanding marks from P1500 paper — a job normally reserved for a dedicated cutting compound. As the pass goes on, the particles break into finer and finer fragments, until they're small enough to polish the surface to a high gloss without leaving fresh micro-scratches behind.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat progressive break-down is the reason the polish needs a full pass to show what it can do. Stop too early — say after thirty seconds instead of two minutes per section — and you stay stuck in the cutting stage: you get the coarse marks out, but no gloss. The pass is only done once the polish goes clear on the paint and the typical shine shows up. Reading that point takes a little experience, but after the first two or three panels you'll have the feel for it down.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne common misconception: some users think a 5\/5 polish is more aggressive than a pure cutting compound like the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur\"\u003eSONAX CutMax (6\/4)\u003c\/a\u003e. It's the other way around — CutMax has more cut at 6\/4 and can take down coarser defects, such as sanding marks from P1000 paper. Cut+Finish starts at P1500 and reaches the same gloss result you'd otherwise only get with an extra finishing step. If you need to sand coarser, you need CutMax as the first step — Cut+Finish is then the fast one-step solution for lighter to medium sanding work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing a one-step polish properly — machine type, pad choice and technique\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCut+Finish\u003c\/strong\u003e is built primarily for rotary polishers. Here's why: a rotary, with its pure rotating action, builds more heat and friction than a dual-action machine — exactly the energy the progressive abrasive break-down needs to run the full spectrum from cut to high gloss. It works on a dual-action machine too, just with reduced cut: the eccentric action builds less heat, so the particles break down slower and the pass takes longer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003epad choice\u003c\/strong\u003e drives the result more than anything. On a hard pad (white or orange) Cut+Finish gives you its full cut — ideal for working a panel after wet-sanding. On a medium-hard pad the cut is more moderate, enough for refreshing weathered paint without sanding first. On a soft finishing pad the polish loses too much cut and no longer reaches the performance it was built for — for pure finish polishing there are better-suited products like the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PerfectFinish (4\/6)\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the application: drop three or four pea-sized dots of polish onto the pad, spread them at low speed over the panel and then bring it up to working speed. Work in rows with about fifty percent overlap across the whole section until the polish goes clear. A typical section — say half a bonnet — takes two to three minutes on a rotary. Wipe the polish residue off with a clean microfibre cloth and check the result under an LED lamp: if there are still sanding marks visible, repeat the pass with a bit more pressure or a higher speed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen you polish large areas — bonnet, roof, side panels — getting the pressure right is the key. Hold the machine so the pad sits evenly on the surface and let the weight of the machine do the work. Extra pressure from above does raise the cut, but it also builds more heat and can cause holograms on sensitive paint — exactly what Cut+Finish is meant to avoid. If you still see defects after one pass, a second pass at the same pressure beats a single pass with too much pressure.\n\nAfter polishing, it's worth degreasing with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e to strip the last of the polish residue. Under the Prepare control spray the real result shows up — without polishing oils and fillers that can visually mask defects. That step matters especially if a ceramic coating or paint protection film is going on afterwards.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eRemoving sanding marks after wet-sanding — the ideal jobs for Cut+Finish\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe main job for \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX Cut+Finish\u003c\/strong\u003e is the follow-up after wet-sanding with P1200 to P1500 paper. Day-to-day you'll run into that in a few scenarios:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn a \u003cstrong\u003espot-repair follow-up\u003c\/strong\u003e in the bodyshop, blend-ins and touch-up areas get wet-sanded first to level the paint and knock down orange peel. Cut+Finish takes the sanding marks out in one pass and brings the repaired area up to the gloss level of the surrounding original paint — without a second polishing step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn a \u003cstrong\u003enew-car prep\u003c\/strong\u003e, plenty of vehicles come from the factory with light orange peel and transport scratches. A careful wet-sand with P1500 levels the surface, and Cut+Finish brings the gloss back. Here the silicone-free formula plays an important role: should the new car need a respray inside the warranty period, the silicone-free polish causes no problems with the repaint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn a \u003cstrong\u003eclassic-car restoration\u003c\/strong\u003e or the recovery of badly weathered paint, Cut+Finish is enough on its own in many cases, as long as the weathering doesn't run too deep. On original stove-baked paint, which is often softer than modern water-based finishes, Cut+Finish offers enough cut to take down the oxidised layer and enough finish to bring the gloss underneath back out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother scenario that comes up a lot day-to-day: \u003cstrong\u003escratch removal without sanding first.\u003c\/strong\u003e Not every scratch needs the sandpaper. Surface scratches that sit only in the clearcoat and disappear when the surface is wet can be polished out directly with Cut+Finish. The 5\/5 cut is enough to take down the damaged clearcoat layer far enough for the scratch to disappear — and the 5\/5 gloss makes sure the spot doesn't end up looking duller than the surrounding paint afterwards. For this job a medium-hard pad beats the hard pad, so you keep the cut more controlled.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhere Cut+Finish hits its limits: on sanding marks from P1000 and coarser it doesn't have the cut to take them out fully in one pass. Here CutMax (6\/4) is the better choice as a first step, followed by a finish with PerfectFinish or the NP 03-06. Cut+Finish is no replacement for a dedicated cutting compound on heavy defect removal — it's the one-step solution for the P1200 to P1500 range, where it plays its strength in full. On extremely hard ceramic clearcoats too, like the ones some German premium makers use, Cut+Finish can need more passes than on softer Japanese or Korean paint systems — the abrasives break down slower on the hard substrate, and the polishing process takes correspondingly longer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eOne-step polish comparison — Cut+Finish vs. CutMax vs. PerfectFinish\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the SONAX PROFILINE range, Cut+Finish, CutMax and PerfectFinish form a logical gradient that covers different needs:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCutMax (6\/4)\u003c\/strong\u003e is the pure cutting compound — maximum cut (6\/5), moderate gloss (4\/5). It comes out when coarse defects like P1000 sanding marks, deep scratches or heavy weathering have to be taken down. After CutMax a finishing step is nearly always needed, because the gloss result alone isn't enough.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePerfectFinish (4\/6)\u003c\/strong\u003e is the counterpart: moderate cut (4\/5), maximum gloss (6\/5). It's built for the finishing step after a cutting compound and creates the last bit of high gloss needed for concours results and showroom quality.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSONAX Cut+Finish (5\/5)\u003c\/strong\u003e sits right in the middle and is the all-rounder: it manages the cut of a medium cutting compound and the gloss of a good finishing polish in a single pass. The upside is obvious — time saved, fewer pad changes, less polish residue. The downside: if you have to push to the extremes — heaviest defect removal or that absolute last bit of high gloss — you're better served by the two-step approach of CutMax and PerfectFinish. For an estimated seventy percent of the day-to-day polishing work in workshop and detailing, Cut+Finish is plenty as the only polish you need.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAgainst polishes from other makers, Cut+Finish positions itself as the workshop-focused solution: the silicone-free formula, the low-dust working and the long open time are properties that make the difference in daily workshop use. Hobby detailers who polish once a year notice these upsides less — for them what counts above all is the end result. In a workshop polishing ten to fifteen vehicles a week, though, these upsides add up to a tangible efficiency gain: less cleanup thanks to no dust, no contamination risk thanks to being silicone-free, less wasted product thanks to the controlled consistency.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying a one-step polish — bottle sizes and recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCut+Finish\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml and 1000 ml. For getting started or the occasional job on your own car, the 250 ml bottle is enough — that polishes a whole vehicle and leaves you a reserve for touch-ups. For workshops and professional detailers polishing every day, the 1000 ml bottle is the more economical pick: the price per litre drops noticeably and you reorder less often.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the optimal workflow we recommend the combination: Cut+Finish as the main polish, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e for result checking and degreasing, and \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-polymernetshield-lackversiegelung\"\u003eSONAX PolymerNetShield\u003c\/a\u003e as the final sealant. This trio covers the whole process from defect correction to long-term protection — in three steps instead of the five or six a multi-stage process with separate cutting and finishing polishes would need.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWith several vehicles a day a further upside of Cut+Finish shows up: you only need one product and one set of pads, instead of switching between cutting and finishing polish. That cuts not just the setup time but also the risk of mix-ups — in a workshop where several people polish, a simple one-product system is less error-prone than a three-stage process with different polishes and pad combinations.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA practical note on storage: Cut+Finish can separate slightly when it stands for a while — the abrasives settle at the bottom. Shake the bottle well before every use until the consistency is evenly creamy. Store the product frost-free and sealed, and it keeps its full performance over the whole shelf life. Frozen polish loses its homogeneous consistency and won't work evenly anymore even after it thaws.\u003c\/p\u003e\n","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53519485403471,"sku":"D1-SNX-2251410","price":20.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53519485436239,"sku":"D1-SNX-2253000","price":61.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53519485501775,"sku":"D1-SNX-2251410_2","price":41.78,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53519485534543,"sku":"D1-SNX-2251410_3","price":62.67,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53519485567311,"sku":"D1-SNX-2253000_2","price":123.78,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3 x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53519485600079,"sku":"D1-SNX-2253000_3","price":185.67,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-cut-finish-einstufen-politur.png?v=1730642087"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-felgenreiniger-red-max-felgenreiniger","title":"PROFILINE FelgenReiniger Red Max wheel cleaner","description":"\u003ch2\u003ePull off brake dust and mineral build-up the pro way — SONAX PROFILINE FelgenReiniger Red Max\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE FelgenReiniger Red Max do? This strong acidic pro wheel cleaner dissolves brake dust, limescale and baked-on mineral build-up from alloy and steel wheels — even on stubborn, long-term grime and without heavy scrubbing.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn professional detailing shops and reconditioning outfits that clean heavily soiled wheels day in, day out, standard wheel cleaners hit their limit fast: baked-on brake dust made of iron particles, mineral limescale from hard water and polymerised road grime sit deep in the pores of the aluminium surface and won't come off fully with neutral or mild alkaline cleaners. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FelgenReiniger Red Max\u003c\/strong\u003e is the acidic maximum-strength formula for exactly this job: a powerful, acidic-pH blend built specifically for heavy daily pro use in large containers (5 litre, 25 litre, 200 litre) that reliably cuts through stubborn wheel contamination.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMaximum acidic cleaning power for heavy-duty grime.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Red Max is the strongest option in the PROFILINE wheel cleaner range: with an acidic pH it dissolves mineral deposits (limescale, oxides) chemically through an acid-base reaction, while the powerful surfactant blend loosens brake dust and oil-grime mixtures and lifts them off the wheel surface. The result is a deep cleaning action that keeps mechanical scrubbing to a minimum and noticeably shortens the working time per vehicle.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBuilt for heavy daily pro use in bulk containers.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Red Max comes in pro containers only — 5 litre, 25 litre and 200 litre — and is aimed at detailing shops, wash bays and fleet care outfits that clean lots of vehicles a day and need an economical, concentrated cleaner. Buying it in bulk means consistent product quality at a low price per litre and fewer stock top-ups.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEffective against brake dust, limescale and road grime on aluminium and steel.\u003c\/strong\u003e Through braking, alloy wheels pick up iron particles from brake discs and pads that bake on and can't be removed without acidic chemistry. Limescale from hard water builds up especially on vehicles that get washed regularly but never fully dried. The Red Max targets both types of contamination and leaves a clean, even wheel surface.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Always lay the Red Max down on cool wheels out of direct sun — on hot metal the dwell time drops sharply and the product can dry out before it works. Pre-rinse the wheel, spray or wipe the cleaner on, let it dwell for 2–5 minutes — don't let it dry — then rinse thoroughly. For heavily baked-on residue, back the dwell step up with a soft wheel brush to mechanically free the loosened residue from recesses and hubs. On unanodised aluminium surfaces, keep an eye on the dwell time — too long a contact can dull the aluminium. After the acidic clean we recommend a rinse step with clean water and, if needed, a finishing treatment with the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-felgenreiniger-felgenreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FelgenReiniger\u003c\/a\u003e as a maintenance product for regular use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAcid chemistry in a wheel cleaner — how the Red Max dissolves mineral build-up and brake dust\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe working principle of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FelgenReiniger Red Max\u003c\/strong\u003e is based on a combined acidic and surfactant-active formula: the acidic component attacks mineral compounds by breaking down the crystalline structure of limescale and oxide deposits — calcium and magnesium carbonate (limescale) react with the acid and turn into water-soluble salts that rinse off easily. Aluminium oxide deposits (corrosion products on alloy wheels) are likewise loosened by the acid reaction.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIron particles from brake dust are, chemically speaking, iron oxide (rust) or metallic iron that has baked into the surface structure of the wheel. Acids dissolve iron compounds through a different reaction: metallic iron and iron oxides react with strong acids, releasing iron salts that are water-soluble and get carried off during rinsing. The combined action of acid and surfactants makes sure the greasy phase of the brake dust residue (brake caliper oil, road grime) is loosened and lifted off the surface at the same time — a purely acidic formula without surfactants would only dissolve the mineral component and leave the organic dirt behind.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \"Red Max\" name points to the maximum concentration within the PROFILINE wheel cleaner line: compared to the regular \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-felgenreiniger-felgenreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FelgenReiniger\u003c\/a\u003e (positioned as a milder maintenance solution), the Red Max is built for situations where normal cleaners are out of their depth — heavily soiled wheels after long cleaning intervals, vehicles with mineral-rich water residue, or commercial tyre service outfits cleaning lots of wheels a day.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe formulation is dialled in for use on aluminium and steel wheels. Aluminium handles acids well in a controlled concentration and with limited dwell time — too long a dwell can strip the natural oxide protection layer of the aluminium too far, leading to dulling or an uneven surface. This effect is stronger on smooth, unpainted wheels than on powder-coated or painted wheels, which are protected by the coating. For pro use that means: keep an eye on the dwell time, don't let it dry, rinse off fully.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the FelgenReiniger Red Max properly — dosing, dwell time and safety\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUsing the acidic pro wheel cleaner takes a bit of prep and care to get the best results and avoid material damage. Step 1 — prep: move the vehicle to an area where the wheels aren't in direct sunlight. Pre-rinse the wheels with clean water to get rid of loose dirt and loose particles that would otherwise act like scratching abrasives during the cleaning process. Check the wheel temperature: the wheels have to be cool (under 40 °C), which is a regular problem on freshly driven vehicles — hot wheels let the cleaner dry out too fast.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eStep 2 — application: spray the Red Max evenly onto all wheel surfaces with a spray bottle — face, spokes, hub centre and barrel. With 5-litre containers a separate spray bottle filled from the container is the way to go, to keep dosing controlled. The dwell time is typically 2–5 minutes, depending on how dirty the wheel is. During the dwell the cleaner should stay visibly wet — if it dries, re-wet it right away, since dried-on acidic cleaner is harder to rinse and can attack the wheel surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eStep 3 — mechanical help and rinsing: for heavily baked-on brake dust or hardened limescale, use a soft wheel brush to mechanically free the loosened residue in recesses, around bolt holes and between spokes. Then rinse thoroughly with clean water — fully removing all acid residue matters, since even small amounts of acid left dwelling on aluminium can trigger corrosion or dulling. With strongly acidic waste water, follow the local waste water regulations — professional wash bays have neutralisation systems for acidic effluent.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePersonal protective equipment: when working with concentrated acidic wheel cleaner, protective gloves and, for intensive use, safety goggles are a good idea. That goes especially for the 25-litre and 200-litre containers, where you're handling larger quantities. For automatic cleaning machines and water systems, check compatibility with the material of the system before use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the Red Max is used — wheel types and levels of grime\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FelgenReiniger Red Max\u003c\/strong\u003e suits a broad range of wheel types and grime scenarios. Alloy wheels (cast and forged), whether painted, polished or powder-coated, respond well to the acidic clean — but on polished or untreated aluminium wheels (bare aluminium) the dwell time should be capped at 3 minutes max, so you don't risk dulling the polished surfaces. Powder-coated and painted wheels handle the acidic formula well, since the protective layer isolates the aluminium from direct acid contact.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSteel wheels (winter wheels, commercial vehicle wheels) can be cleaned with the Red Max too — here the acidic formula is less critical, since steel is less reactive to acids than aluminium. On steel wheels with rust on the inner face, the Red Max loosens the surface rust, which becomes visible (orange residue when rinsing). For the outer face of chrome wheels we recommend keeping the dwell time to 1–2 minutes and rinsing especially thoroughly, since chrome can go dull under long acid contact.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn commercial use the Red Max is especially efficient for wash bays, tyre service outfits and fleet care businesses that clean lots of vehicles a day. The bulk availability (25 litre and 200 litre) lets it slot fully into existing cleaning workflows. A common case is cleaning van fleets and truck wheels, which get especially heavily contaminated with brake dust from their heavy brake systems and have long cleaning intervals. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-felgenbeast-felgenreiniger\"\u003eSONAX FelgenBeast\u003c\/a\u003e offers a colour-indicating formula as a complementary option, changing colour when iron particles react — for outfits that value a visual readout of the cleaning action.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eRed Max in the product comparison — acidic cleaning vs. universal wheel cleaners\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX wheel cleaner range has different products for different requirement profiles. The regular \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-felgenreiniger-felgenreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FelgenReiniger\u003c\/a\u003e is designed as a milder, broadly usable maintenance solution for regular use on normal wheel grime — lower pH, gentler on sensitive wheel surfaces, suitable as a weekly cleaner. The Red Max, on the other hand, is positioned for intensive use on heavy grime or after long cleaning intervals: more cleaning power, shorter working time on heavy brake dust.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCompared to non-acidic, purely alkaline wheel cleaners, the Red Max shows superior performance on mineral deposits (limescale, oxides) — alkaline cleaners are good for organic grime (oils, greases, silicones) but regularly fail on limescale and baked-on iron-oxide brake dust. Conversely, acidic cleaners are less effective against oil and grease grime, which a surfactant-based alkaline formula handles more efficiently. The Red Max combines acid and surfactant technology to tackle both types of grime at once — that makes it an all-rounder for heavily soiled wheels carrying both mineral and organic residue.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgainst DIY solutions (diluted citric acid, household sanitary cleaners), the Red Max as a professional product has a clear edge: the formulation is optimised for vehicle wheels, contains the right surfactants for brake-dust removal, and the concentration is set so it works effectively without damaging wheel material at a short dwell time. Household sanitary cleaners often contain acids that are too aggressive or the wrong surfactants for wheel use and can do permanent damage to wheel coatings or aluminium material when used wrong.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy the SONAX PROFILINE FelgenReiniger Red Max — containers and usage recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FelgenReiniger Red Max\u003c\/strong\u003e comes only in professional bulk containers: 5 litre for smaller outfits and frequent single users, 25 litre for mid-size detailing shops and wash bays, plus 200 litre for industrial customers and large fleet care operations. The price scaling by container size is significant — the 200-litre container offers a much lower price per litre than the 5-litre one and makes the Red Max especially economical for high-volume outfits.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor small to mid-size detailing shops doing 5–20 vehicles a day, the 5-litre container is the ideal entry point: you can use it straight as a working volume and the demand is easy to gauge before deciding on the 25-litre container. Per set of wheels you typically need 20–50 ml depending on the level of grime and the wheel size — so the 5-litre container is good for 100–250 vehicle jobs, which keeps stock manageable even for smaller outfits.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTo sum up, the Red Max is the right product for any wheel cleaning job where mild wheel cleaners fall short: heavily baked-on brake dust after long cleaning intervals, hard-limescale mineral build-up, and commercial cleaning demands with high throughput. For outfits looking for a full wheel care concept, we recommend pairing the Red Max for the intensive deep clean with the regular PROFILINE FelgenReiniger or the SONAX FelgenBeast for ongoing maintenance — a two-step split that optimises both cleaning quality and economics.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":53519620669775,"sku":"D1-SNX-2315050","price":60.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"25 liters","offer_id":53519620735311,"sku":"D1-SNX-2317050","price":314.16,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"200 liters","offer_id":53519620800847,"sku":"D1-SNX-2319050","price":1951.6,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-felgenreiniger-red-max-felgenreiniger_5-liter.png?v=1730643342"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter","title":"PROFILINE Prepare Cleaner \u0026 Inspection Spray (Degreaser)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eDegrease and inspect your paint before sealing — SONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE Prepare do? This cleaner and inspection spray degreases paint surfaces with zero residue before you lay down sealants and ceramic coatings — and at the same time it makes leftover polishing oils and silicone residue show up thanks to the inspection effect.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eEvery proper sealant, every ceramic coating and every protective-film job starts with one step you can't skip: getting the surface fully degreased. Oils, silicones, polishing residue and release agents are invisible contaminants that wreck the chemical bond of a sealant — a surface that isn't degreased gives you patchy bonding, shorter durability and visible flaws. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/strong\u003e is the dedicated degreaser and inspection spray for this make-or-break step: fast-acting, residue-free, and at the same time usable as an inspection spray that makes any leftover contamination visible through how the light refracts off it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eResidue-free degreasing before sealant and coating.\u003c\/strong\u003e Polishing oils, silicones and other release agents are hydrophobic substances that cling to the paint if you don't pull them off on purpose. The Prepare loosens these contaminants and lifts them off the paint as you wipe — without leaving residue of its own that could mess with the sealant going on next. A cleanly degreased surface is the one condition that lets polymer or ceramic sealants reach their full bond and durability.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe inspection effect makes contamination visible.\u003c\/strong\u003e On top of cleaning, the Prepare spray has an important inspection job: spray it onto the surface and any spots with oil residue or polishing oil show a telltale running of the spray film. Spots with no contamination, on the other hand, wet out evenly. That visual cue lets you go back and clean those exact spots before the sealant goes on — a quality-control move no serious detailer leaves out.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eAs a prep spray and panel wipe in your detailing workflow.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Prepare works both as a surface degreaser before coating and as a panel wipe after paint correction (polishing) — to fully strip polishing-oil residue before sealing. So it's not just a sealing-stage product; it slots into the full reconditioning workflow (polish → panel wipe → coating) as an integral step.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Always use the Prepare right before you lay down the sealant or coating — not hours earlier, since dust and ambient contamination can settle straight back onto the cleaned surface. Spray it onto a clean, lint-free microfibre cloth (don't spray it straight onto the paint, to stop it running uncontrolled), wipe the panel you're about to seal, then flip to the dry side of the cloth right away to take it off. Work in a garage or an enclosed room with no draught to avoid fresh contamination. Straight after the Prepare, lay down the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-polymernetshield-lackversiegelung\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PolymerNetShield\u003c\/a\u003e or a ceramic coating.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eDegreaser and inspection spray — how the Prepare gets surfaces ready for coatings\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe degreaser-inspection spray works off fast-evaporating solvents that loosen grease, oils and silicone residue on the paint and lift them off with the wipe cloth. Unlike water-based cleaners, these solvents leave no moisture film behind once they flash off — the evaporation is complete and residue-free, which is the ideal base for the coating going on right after.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe real value sits in the dual job: while the spray cleans, the visual inspection effect shows you where contamination is still hiding. That effect comes down to the different surface tension of contaminated versus clean paint: on degreased paint the spray spreads out evenly as a fine film, on contaminated paint it pulls together and shows telltale craters or beads. This matters most when the panel you're coating wasn't fully oil-free after polishing — even small amounts of polishing oil can permanently hurt a ceramic coating's bond in that spot.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn professional reconditioning, the panel-wipe step with a degreaser like the Prepare is a quality standard no serious detailer skips: ceramic coatings like the \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-hybridcoating-cc-one-keramikversiegelung\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HybridCoating \"CC One\"\u003c\/a\u003e bond chemically to the clearcoat — a grease layer that blocks that bonding zone cuts the bond quality and can lead to peeling or patchy protection months down the line. The few minutes a careful degreasing step takes pay off in clearly better durability and a more even coating.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the Prepare right — the panel-wipe workflow step by step\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUsing the panel-wipe spray is simple, but how cleanly you do it decides the final coating result. Prep: the car has to be fully washed and dried before the degreasing step — the Prepare is no cleaner for dirt or dust, only for oily and silicone residue on an already washed, dry surface. Water and dirt left on the surface block the degreasing effect and leave streaks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eApplication: the microfibre cloth for the Prepare should be new or freshly washed — a cloth that has already soaked up polishing oil hands it straight back to the paint as you wipe and undoes the whole degreasing effect. Spray the Prepare onto the cloth (not onto the paint), so the amount of solvent stays controlled and nothing dwells uncontrolled on sensitive paint areas. Wipe across the panel with light to medium pressure — the inspection effect shows up right away: even wetting signals a clean surface, patchy spread flags up oil residue. Go back over it until the wetting is even.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eRemoval: right after wiping with the wet side of the cloth, take it off with the dry side or a second clean cloth before the solvent flashes off fully. That way the loosened grease and oils come off the paint instead of getting rubbed back onto the surface. Lay down your chosen sealant straight after — no pause, since the degreased paint is now at its most ready to take the coating chemistry. On big cars work in sections: Prepare, then sealant right after, section by section.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere you use it — when degreasing before sealing is a must\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe degreaser spray is a must in several spots in the detailing workflow. The most common case is the panel wipe after paint correction: every polish frees up polishing oil that works as a lubricant and abrasive carrier between pad and paint. After polishing, that oil film sits on the paint — an even, fine, but bond-killing layer for sealants. The Prepare strips this film fully and gets the freshly polished clearcoat ready for sealing right away.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe second common use is prep for protective films (PPF — Paint Protection Film): films bond with adhesive layers on the paint and need an absolutely oil- and silicone-free surface for the best bond and edge sealing. Even small silicone spots under the film can lead to air bubbles, incomplete bonding and later peeling — a flawless degreasing step with the Prepare is therefore a particular pro standard on PPF jobs. Degreasing also matters when re-sealing cars that were treated with wax or polymer products before: old wax and polymer residue on the paint can noticeably hurt a ceramic coating's bond in those spots.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Prepare also earns its keep for quality control after polishing, whatever sealant comes next: the inspection effect shows whether the polish was carried out evenly across the whole panel, or whether areas with polishing residue point to spots that haven't been worked yet. So the Prepare doubles as a quality-control tool that flags gaps in the polishing work and heads off flaws in the final sealant before they get locked in.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe Prepare compared — degreasers and IPA mixes for paint prep\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn professional detailing there are several products used as degreaser and panel wipe. Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) in diluted form (typically 10–20% in water) is a classic panel wipe that's cheap and widely available — the degreasing works well, but the inspection job is missing. If you degrease with IPA, you have to trust other cues to judge whether the degreasing step is complete. The Prepare gives you a clear edge here: the visual inspection effect gives you instant feedback on the quality of the degreasing step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNext to all-purpose degreasers or solvent-heavy cleaners, the Prepare positions itself as a gentler, more paint-friendly product — not every solvent goes onto sensitive clearcoat, fresh multi-layer paintwork or coated surfaces without trouble. The Prepare is formulated specifically for car paint and safe on all common clearcoat grades. On fresh factory resprays or repair paint do a quick test patch to make sure it's compatible — especially on very freshly applied clearcoat that hasn't fully cured yet.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCompared with cross-brand degreasers, the PROFILINE Prepare has the edge of system compatibility: it's matched to the PROFILINE sealant line and leaves no residue that would clash with the PROFILINE coating products. For detailers running a fully matched product system, that's an important quality factor — systematic compatibility cuts risk and makes results more repeatable. The \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish \"4\/6\"\u003c\/a\u003e as the finish polish before, and the Prepare as the panel wipe after, together give you a perfect pre-coating workflow.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the SONAX PROFILINE Prepare — pack size and recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 400 ml (single bottle) as well as a 2-pack and a 3-pack. The 400 ml bottle covers plenty of full-car degreases at sensible dosing — since you spray onto the cloth and not the paint, the amount you use is easy to control. For detailers who coat cars regularly and run the panel wipe as a fixed workflow step, the 3-pack is the most economical option.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Prepare is especially worth it for any detailer and reconditioning business laying down professional ceramic coatings who won't compromise on surface prep. For enthusiasts coating their own car with a polymer or ceramic sealant, the Prepare is your guarantee that the sealant bonds as well and as durably as it can. A common mistake when coating your own car is skipping the degreasing step — seal straight after washing and you risk a poor bond from polishing-oil or wax residue you can't see on the paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBottom line, the Prepare is the link between paint correction and coating — a step that's easy to overlook, but one that decides the quality and longevity of the whole coating result. Build this step firmly into your detailing workflow and you'll be rewarded with clearly better and longer-lasting sealing results that mark the difference between a professional finish and one that only looks good on the surface.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"400 ml","offer_id":53519725297999,"sku":"D1-SNX-2373000","price":13.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 400ml Set","offer_id":53519725330767,"sku":"D1-SNX-2373000_2","price":27.78,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 400ml Set","offer_id":53519725363535,"sku":"D1-SNX-2373000_3","price":41.67,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter_400ml.png?v=1730644408"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-coatingapplicator-applikationspads","title":"PROFILINE CoatingApplicator Applicator Pads (Evolon®)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eLay ceramic coatings down evenly and scratch-free with the SONAX CoatingApplicator\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat makes the SONAX CoatingApplicator special? An applicator pad with an Evolon® fabric face and a foam core inside — it lays ceramic coatings down evenly, scratch-free and sparingly, with no streaks and no wasted product.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen you apply a ceramic coating, you're not just paying for the coating itself — you're paying for all the prep: the polish, the degrease, the controlled conditions. So it stings when the result gets ruined by a cheap applicator pad: uneven film thickness, micro-scratches in the freshly polished paint, product wasted through uncontrolled release. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CoatingApplicator\u003c\/strong\u003e fixes exactly that. Its Evolon® fabric face, made from extremely fine polyamide and polyester fibres, lays every SONAX CeramicCoating down evenly and scratch-free — from paint coating through film coating to plastic coating. The foam core inside holds the coating and releases it in a controlled way, so a few drops are enough to coat a whole body panel.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eScratch-free Evolon® face.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Evolon® fabric is built from fibres finer than a human hair — about ten times finer than ordinary microfibre. That ultra-smooth surface keeps micro-scratches off even delicate clear coats and freshly polished panels. When you're applying a coating, that's the whole game: any scratch made during application gets locked in under the ceramic layer, and after that there's no fixing it.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eControlled product release through the foam core.\u003c\/strong\u003e The foam core inside works as a reservoir — it takes up the liquid coating and releases it evenly across the whole working face. No drips, no flooding, no dry spots at the edge of the pad. That even release is the reason pro detailers don't reach for just any foam pad but for dedicated coating applicators: the film thickness of the coating is what mainly drives durability and looks.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCompact format for precise work.\u003c\/strong\u003e At 85 × 60 mm the CoatingApplicator sits securely in your hand and reaches tight spots too — swage lines, seams, the transitions between body panels. When you're coating plastic trim, headlights or window frames, a compact pad works better than large applicators that sit unevenly on edges and corners.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Always put the coating on the light Evolon® side of the pad — not on the dark foam side. Drop two or three drops onto the pad, spread them with a light wipe over a clean area, then work in a cross pattern: horizontal first, then vertical. That gets you an even film thickness with no directional streaks. Swap the pad every two or three parts at the latest — a saturated pad gives off too much product and leaves streaks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eEvolon® fabric — why the material makes the difference in coating application\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eEvolon® is a brand name from the Freudenberg group for a special spunbond fabric made from continuous fibres. Unlike ordinary microfibre, which is woven or knitted, Evolon® fibres are formed by splitting a bicomponent filament — the result is fibres under a micrometre in diameter, noticeably finer and more uniform than woven microfibre. For coating application that has two practical upshots. First, the pad glides over the surface almost friction-free and causes no micro-scratches, not even on soft Japanese clear coats or freshly polished panels. Second, the fabric draws the coating up by capillary action and releases it in a controlled way again — much like a quality brush picks up paint without dripping.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eCoatingApplicator\u003c\/strong\u003e pairs that Evolon® fabric with a foam core inside that acts as an extra product reservoir. In practice that means: you put a few drops of coating on the pad, and the foam core spreads the product evenly across the whole contact face. Without that foam core the coating would stay concentrated at the spot where you dropped it and run out unevenly thin as you wipe — a classic problem with plain foam applicators that have no fabric face.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA common misconception: some people think a soft microfibre cloth can do the same job as a dedicated coating applicator. That works for spray sealants, which get spread over a large area and wiped off. But with real ceramic coatings — SiO₂- or Si-carbon-based products that cross-link chemically on the surface — even film thickness is what makes or breaks the result. A microfibre cloth has an irregular surface with long fibre loops that soak the coating up unpredictably and lay it on too thick in places, too thin in others. The Evolon® pad, with its flat, even face, is the technically superior tool for this specific job.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCoating application step by step — how to get the most out of the pad\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe prep starts not at the pad but at the surface: before you pick up the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CoatingApplicator\u003c\/strong\u003e, the paint or film has to be washed, polished if needed, and degreased with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e. Any film of grease, any polishing residue under the coating hurts adhesion and shortens durability. Prepare strips those residues away cleanly and doubles as a control spray — under the control spray the last defects show up, the ones you want to fix before you coat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTake a fresh pad out of the pack and hold it with the light Evolon® side up. Drop two or three drops of coating in the middle of the fabric face — for the SONAX CeramicCoatings that's enough for an area of about 40 × 40 centimetres. Spread the product first with light strokes over the surface to wet the pad evenly, then apply in a cross pattern: horizontal first, then vertical. That technique makes sure the coating goes on gap-free and at an even thickness.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWork in small sections — half a panel per pass is a good rule of thumb. After applying, you wipe excess coating off with a clean Coating Towel before it flashes off. On paint the wipe-off should happen within one to two minutes, on film faster. When you notice the pad releasing less evenly or the drag increasing as you wipe, swap the pad. A saturated or part-dried pad leaves streaks and spreads the product unevenly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe ambient conditions matter a lot during application. Ideal is a temperature between 15 and 25 degrees Celsius at a relative humidity of 40 to 60 per cent. Too cold and the coating's cross-linking slows down; too warm and it dries out on the pad too fast — both hurt the result. Work in a closed garage or workshop where you can, not under direct sun. Draughts are a problem too: they speed up the flash-off and can carry dust particles onto the freshly coated surface, where they then get locked in under the ceramic layer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA pro trick for especially even results: use an LED inspection lamp during application. Under the directed light, unevenly coated spots show up straight away — as matte patches on the otherwise evenly glossy layer. That lets you fix problem areas before the coating cures and the fix becomes impossible.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eImportant: the \u003cstrong\u003eCoatingApplicator pads\u003c\/strong\u003e are single-use. After use the coating cures inside the pad and the Evolon® fibres lose their even structure. Reusing a used pad would cause exactly the micro-scratches the pad prevents when fresh. The six pads in the set are enough for a full vehicle coating — on a partial job you'll have pads left over for the next time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhich coatings is the applicator suited to — scope and limits\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CoatingApplicator\u003c\/strong\u003e is designed for every SONAX CeramicCoating and works across the whole range: \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-one-paint-keramikversiegelung\"\u003eCC One for paint\u003c\/a\u003e, CC Evo for the two-step coating, CC Pro for professional use, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-vinyl-ppf-folienversiegelung\"\u003eCC Vinyl+PPF for film\u003c\/a\u003e, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-plastic-rubber-kunststoffversiegelung\"\u003eCC Plastic+Rubber for plastic\u003c\/a\u003e and CC HeadlightCoating for headlights. The Evolon® face is material-compatible with every substrate — clear coat, film, hard plastic, polycarbonate.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhere the pad hits its limits: for spray sealants or wax products the CoatingApplicator isn't the right call. Spray sealants get applied over a large area and wiped off — a microfibre cloth is more efficient for that. Wax products have a much thicker consistency than ceramic coatings and would overload the foam core, so the controlled release stops working. The CoatingApplicator is a specialist: tuned for the thin, fast-curing ceramic coatings where precision and evenness come before everything.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou can apply glass coatings with the pad too, though for glass many detailers prefer an even more compact applicator or a folded suede cloth, to better control the higher pressure on the hard glass surface. On paint, film and plastic — the three main use cases — the CoatingApplicator is the first choice in the SONAX system though.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA special case is matte film and matte paint: here the Evolon® material really shows its strength. Matte surfaces are extremely sensitive to scratches and friction — any damage to the matte microstructure leaves an unwanted shiny patch that can't be polished out. The ultra-fine Evolon® fabric glides over matte surfaces without changing the structure, and the coating goes on thin enough to keep the matte character fully intact. If you want to coat a matte film or a matte paint, do not under any circumstances reach for an ordinary foam pad — the risk of visible application marks is too high.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCoating applicator comparison — Evolon® vs. suede vs. foam\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn the market you'll find three main types of coating applicator: Evolon®-based pads, suede pads (faux suede) and plain foam applicators.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSuede pads\u003c\/strong\u003e are the classic choice for a lot of detailers and often come bundled with coatings from other makers. They have a velvety, smooth face that spreads coatings well. The downside: suede material soaks the coating up heavily and releases it less controllably — you need more product per area. With expensive coatings that extra use adds up noticeably. Suede pads can also leave fine streaks on soft paint under high pressure, the kind that only show up once the coating has cured.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePlain foam applicators\u003c\/strong\u003e with no fabric face are the cheapest option. They work for spray sealants and thick waxes but aren't ideal for ceramic coatings: the open-pore foam structure releases the thin coating uncontrollably — sometimes too much, sometimes too little. The result is spots with double the film thickness next to spots that are barely coated. On matte film or sensitive surfaces the coarse foam structure can also leave visible patterns behind. That's why in professional detailing shops you almost never see plain foam applicators used for coating application — there they only come out for polishing work or laying on waxes, where the demands on evenness are far lower.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eEvolon® pads\u003c\/strong\u003e bring the best of both worlds together: the ultra-fine fabric face glides streak-free like a good suede pad, while the foam core inside releases the coating in a controlled, sparing way. The lower product use offsets the higher price per pad — per coated vehicle you'll reckon on two to four pads fewer than with ordinary suede applicators, because you reload less product and swap less often. Over a year that means a measurable saving on coating use for a detailing shop coating three or four vehicles a week — and with a better end result on top. So the price per pad soon evens out once you look at the total cost of the coating job and not just the unit price of the applicator.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the CoatingApplicator — set contents and recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CoatingApplicator\u003c\/strong\u003e set holds six applicator pads in the 85 × 60 mm size — enough for a full vehicle coating plus a reserve. For shops that coat daily, a stock of two or three sets makes sense, so you never have to reorder mid-job. The pads are individually wrapped in film and so stay clean and contamination-free until you use them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the best result chain you pair the CoatingApplicator with the matching SONAX CeramicCoating of your choice and a SONAX Coating Towel for the wipe-off. The Coating Towels are built specifically for ceramic coating: extremely short-pile, so no fibres get locked into the coating, and soft enough not to damage the freshly applied layer as you wipe. This interplay of applicator, coating and wipe-off towel is the system SONAX intended for professional use — and the one that gets private detailers the best results in practice too.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor \u003cstrong\u003eprofessional use\u003c\/strong\u003e it pays to always keep at least one set in reserve. In the workflow of a vehicle detail, nothing is more annoying than running out on the last pad and having to break off the coating. Pros often work with a rotation system too: while one pad is working a section, a fresh pad is ready to start the next section seamlessly. That keeps the workflow steady, and the open time of the coating — the window before it flashes off — gets used to the full.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne last word on storage: keep unused pads dry and dust-free in their original packaging. Contaminated pads — through dust, polishing residue or fingerprints on the fabric side, say — can cause micro-scratches and shouldn't be used for coating application any more. When in doubt, grab a fresh pad: on a ceramic coating meant to last twelve to eighteen months, the pad is the cheapest element in the whole workflow — and at the same time the element that decides the quality of the result. If you spend hours polishing and degreasing during prep, the last step is no place to skimp on the applicator.\u003c\/p\u003e\n","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"6 pieces \/ 85 x 60 mm","offer_id":53519908405583,"sku":"D1-SNX-2377410","price":15.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-coatingapplicator-applikationspads_6-stueck.png?v=1730645209"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-ultimatecut-schleif-politur","title":"PROFILINE UltimateCut \"6+\/3\" Sanding and Polishing Compound (up to P1000)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eProfessionally remove deep scratches and P1000 sanding marks — SONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does SONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut do? The strongest cut compound in the PROFILINE polishing range removes deep scratches, heavy swirl marks, and sanding marks down to P1000 grit — for massive paint correction before finish polishing.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDeep individual scratches, extensive swirl marks after years of neglect, paint runs after repainting, or sanding marks from P800–P1000 sandpaper: These types of damage are too severe for normal corrective polishes. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut\u003c\/strong\u003e is the answer to these extreme demands: the strongest abrasive polish in the PROFILINE range with a \"6+\/3\" rating — maximum abrasiveness for maximum corrective performance, developed for professional use on heavily damaged paints where milder products would be overwhelmed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMaximum abrasive power for the strongest paint correction.\u003c\/strong\u003e With a \"6+\/3\" rating, UltimateCut is the most abrasive product in the SONAX PROFILINE polishing line. Its coarse abrasive particles can completely level sanding marks from P1000 sandpaper in just a few machine passes — a task for which milder polishes like PerfectFinish or OS polishes would require significantly more passes or fail entirely. The high abrasive power significantly reduces processing time for heavily damaged paints.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDesigned for rotary polishers and fast dual-action polishers.\u003c\/strong\u003e UltimateCut is developed for high-performance machine use — with rotary polishers (DA polishers) and fast dual-action polishers with large throws. Hand application is less effective with this abrasive power; the mechanical energy of the machine is necessary to fully activate the strong abrasive particles and achieve an even corrective effect. High-performance use is its intended profile.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCombinable with the multi-stage PROFILINE polishing process.\u003c\/strong\u003e UltimateCut is designed as the first step in a multi-stage polishing process: After the UltimateCut step (maximum correction), a medium correction stage typically follows (e.g., FS 05-04), and then a finish stage (PerfectFinish or NP 03-06). This staged process ensures that any remaining polishing marks from the aggressive first step are completely removed by subsequent stages before the surface is sealed.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePractical tip from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Only use UltimateCut where the depth of damage truly requires it — too much abrasive power on thin paint layers can remove unnecessary material and endanger the paint. Before using UltimateCut, perform paint thickness measurements to ensure sufficient material for multi-stage processing. Start with a hard, abrasive pad (lambswool pad or hard foam pad) on a rotary polisher at medium speed (3–4). After the UltimateCut step, check the surface for any remaining polishing marks and proceed with \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/a\u003e as the next stage. For the final high-gloss finish, then use \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/a\u003e. Change pads between stages — abrasive particles from different stages should not be mixed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAbrasive technology of UltimateCut — what \"6+\/3\" and \"up to P1000\" mean in the polishing process\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe designations \"6+\/3\" and \"up to P1000\" in the product specification for \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut\u003c\/strong\u003e provide important clues about its position and application profile. \"6+\/3\" describes the abrasive rating in the SONAX polishing product hierarchy: Higher numbers indicate more aggressive abrasion. UltimateCut, with \"6+\/3,\" is at the upper end of this scale — the first three digits describe the cutting performance in use; the format is a specific Sonax-internal classification method.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \"up to P1000\" specification is the most practically relevant: It indicates that UltimateCut is capable of completely leveling sanding marks from P1000 sandpaper. P1000 is a medium-coarse grit (particle size approx. 18 micrometers), typically used as the first sanding grit in wet sanding to remove paint runs, orange peel after repainting, or deep scratches. Sanding marks of this depth are too deep for fine corrective polishes (NP 03-06, PerfectFinish) — they require the abrasive power of UltimateCut to be brought to a level that subsequent stages can further process.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe abrasive particles in UltimateCut have a controlled particle size, which enables strong corrective performance without creating uncontrollably deep scratches. Modern compound polishes often use abrasive particles that break down into smaller particles through polishing — this \"diminishing abrasive\" effect means that the polish is very aggressive at the beginning (coarse particles) but becomes milder towards the end of the polishing pass (broken down, smaller particles). This reduces the depth of residual polishing marks and facilitates further processing in the next stage. The UltimateCut formula uses this principle to leave a surface after the correction step that can be further treated with a medium-abrasive polish or directly with PerfectFinish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe lubricating properties of the UltimateCut formula play a crucial secondary role: A cut compound must not only be abrasive but also provide sufficient lubrication for the pad so that the mechanical energy of the machine is controlled and converted into abrasion, not heat generation. Formulas that are too dry cut well initially but overheat quickly and can create dry-run marks on the paint if there is insufficient lubrication. UltimateCut is formulated with a balance of abrasive power and lubrication that is suitable for high-performance use over longer polishing passes. On large vehicles (SUVs, vans, heavy sedans), this balance is particularly important, as the entire polishing job takes significantly longer than on a compact vehicle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAn important aspect when using high-cut compounds like UltimateCut is heat input: High abrasive power during machine use generates significant heat at the contact point between the pad and the paint. Overheated paint can burn (orange-brown discoloration), soften, or develop cracks due to thermal stress. Therefore: use a rotary polisher at moderate speed, sufficient product on the pad (lubricating effect reduces heat), and regularly check the paint temperature between passes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eApplying UltimateCut correctly — machine, pad, and multi-stage process\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe application of the cut compound begins with machine selection: For maximum cutting performance when treating deep scratches and P1000 sanding marks, the rotary polisher (Single Action, SA) is the first choice — it delivers more torque and removal power than a dual-action polisher. For users who only have a dual-action polisher, we recommend a hard foam pad or a hybrid wool pad and several intensive passes — the result is acceptable, but slower than with a rotary machine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePad selection: For UltimateCut, hard or medium-hard abrasive pads (lambswool pads, hybrid wool pads, or hard foam pads) are suitable. Soft finishing pads significantly reduce abrasive performance and should not be used for UltimateCut. Before use, clean the pad with a pad washer or cloth to remove old polish residues — particles from a previous polishing stage still in the pad can cause scratches during UltimateCut application.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eApplication sequence: Apply a small amount of UltimateCut to the pad, spread it at low speed, then work with medium to high speed in intensive overlapping passes over the surface. The polish dries relatively quickly — at room temperature and normal humidity, work in sections. After the UltimateCut step: completely remove polish residues with a microfiber cloth, check the surface under a correction light for any remaining sanding marks. If P1000 marks are still visible, repeat the UltimateCut step. If not, proceed to the next polishing stage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAreas of application for UltimateCut — when maximum corrective power is needed\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eUltimateCut\u003c\/strong\u003e is used in situations where milder polishes are insufficient. Wet sanding after repainting: After painting work in a workshop or body shop, fresh paint often exhibits orange peel, paint runs, or inclusions. These are mechanically leveled by wet sanding with P800–P1000. The deep sanding marks created are a classic task for UltimateCut as the first polishing step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHeavily damaged old paintwork: Vehicles that have never been polished for years and show severe extensive swirl marks, deep individual scratches from car washes, or oxidation marks require maximum corrective performance to be brought to a presentable gloss level. UltimateCut is the powerful first step that brings the level of damage to a point where corrective polishes can further refine it. Often, for heavily damaged paintwork, the combination of UltimateCut + FS 05-04 + PerfectFinish + NP 03-06 is necessary.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSpot repair and color transition areas: For spot painting, the repaired area must be polished out and brought to the gloss level of the surrounding area. Depending on the grit of sandpaper used, UltimateCut may be necessary as the first polishing step. In transition and blending areas, a gentler approach is needed to avoid removing too much material from the surrounding paint area, which is already in good condition — here, UltimateCut should be used precisely on the repair spot, not on the transition area.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eVehicles with very thick clear coat layers (factory paints from the early 2000s or certain classic car repaints) can tolerate intensive multiple treatments with UltimateCut without entering risky paint thickness areas. Modern vehicles with thinner clear coat layers (especially from Asian and some German manufacturers with special paints) require more careful dosing of abrasive energy — one or two machine passes, then paint thickness measurement, before proceeding further. This controlled approach is not a sign of over-caution, but rather a professional standard for sustainable paint correction that does not compromise the vehicle for future detailing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUltimateCut in the polishing pyramid — position and combination strategies\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE polishing line offers a complete abrasive hierarchy for every degree of damage. At the top of the abrasive power is \u003cstrong\u003eUltimateCut\u003c\/strong\u003e as a cut compound, followed by \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-fs-05-04-schleif-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FS 05-04\u003c\/a\u003e as a medium-abrasive correction stage. The finishing stages are \u003ca href=\"\/en\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/a\u003e (after wet sanding) and NP 03-06 (finest high-gloss finish). This polishing pyramid allows for the step-by-step treatment of any degree of damage to a flawless high-gloss finish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor detailers and detailing businesses that use the complete PROFILINE polishing system, a clear decision logic emerges: Scratch depth determines the entry point into the pyramid. Damage deeper than P1000 → UltimateCut as a start. Damage between P1500 and P2000 → PerfectFinish as a start. Only fine swirl marks → NP 03-06 or OS 02-06 as a single stage. This systematic approach based on the degree of damage is a professional standard that saves time and prevents over-processing of the paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCompared to third-party cut compounds, UltimateCut as a PROFILINE product offers the advantage of system compatibility: It is coordinated with the subsequent PROFILINE polishing stages and leaves a surface after the correction step that can be optimally processed with these products. The use of cut compounds from different manufacturers in combination with PROFILINE finish polishes is possible, but the coordination of particle sizes is then not guaranteed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying SONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut — containers and recommended use\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut\u003c\/strong\u003e is available in 250 ml, 1 liter, and 5 liter sizes, as well as 2-pack and 3-pack sets. The 250 ml container is suitable for beginners and occasional users, the 1-liter container for regular professional use, and the 5-liter container for body shops and high-throughput polishing operations. Approximately 20–50 ml are needed per complete vehicle paint correction with UltimateCut, depending on the paint condition and vehicle size — the 1-liter container is therefore sufficient for 20–50 complete detailing jobs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUltimateCut should be in the toolkit of every body shop and detailer who offers paint correction after wet sanding or heavy swirl removal as a service. It is not an everyday product for regular maintenance detailing, but rather a specialized tool for cases where truly maximum corrective performance is needed. The investment in UltimateCut pays off through significantly reduced processing times for difficult paintwork — which directly translates into the economic efficiency of paint correction services.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn summary, SONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut is the strongest corrective tool in the PROFILINE polishing range for all situations where milder polishes are insufficient. Those who regularly polish out new paint jobs, continue after P1000 wet sanding, or correct heavily damaged old paintwork will find the power and efficiency necessary for these demanding tasks in UltimateCut.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53519971909967,"sku":"D1-SNX-2391410","price":22.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53519971942735,"sku":"D1-SNX-2393000","price":66.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":53519971975503,"sku":"D1-SNX-2395000","price":217.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53519972008271,"sku":"D1-SNX-2391410_2","price":45.78,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53519972041039,"sku":"D1-SNX-2391410_3","price":68.67,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53519972073807,"sku":"D1-SNX-2393000_2","price":133.78,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3 x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53519972106575,"sku":"D1-SNX-2393000_3","price":200.67,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-ultimatecut-schleif-politur.png?v=1730646033"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-plastic-rubber-kunststoffversiegelung","title":"PROFILINE CeramicCoating \"CC\" Plastic+Rubber plastic coating","description":"\u003ch2\u003eBring faded unpainted plastic and tyres back to life for good with SONAX CeramicCoating CC Plastic+Rubber\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX CeramicCoating CC Plastic+Rubber do? A ceramic long-term coating on a Si-carbon base for unpainted plastic parts and rubber — it brings the colour back to faded surfaces and protects against UV, weathering and dirt for up to 24 months.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFaded plastic trim, bumpers gone grey and dull wheel-arch liners are the most common visual flaw on otherwise well-kept cars — even when the paint is flawless. Ordinary plastic dressings mask the problem for a few days, then wash straight off at the next clean. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CeramicCoating CC Plastic+Rubber\u003c\/strong\u003e takes a fundamentally different route: instead of a temporary dressing, it lays down a ceramic protective layer on a silicon-carbon base that bonds chemically with the plastic, brings back the original colour and protects the surface against UV, moisture and dirt for up to 24 months.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eVisible colour revival on faded plastic.\u003c\/strong\u003e The coating sinks into the porous surface of weathered plastic and restores the original deep black — not as a surface film, but as a chemically bonded layer. On badly faded parts the before-and-after difference jumps out at first glance. The revival lasts far longer than oil-based dressings, because the Si-carbon layer doesn't wash away.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e24 months of protection against UV and weathering.\u003c\/strong\u003e The ceramic layer forms a barrier against UV light — the main culprit behind fading plastic. At the same time the surface strongly repels water and dirt, which makes cleaning easier and stops grime from clinging. The up-to-24-month durability is realistic on cars washed regularly with a pH-neutral shampoo.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eA flexible coating — good for tyres too.\u003c\/strong\u003e Unlike rigid ceramic coatings for paint, the Plastic+Rubber formula is deliberately flexible. That matters for rubber parts and tyres, which flex as you drive. The coating moves with them without cracking or flaking — something most plastic coatings can't do, and exactly what qualifies this one for tyre care.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Before you start, mask off the neighbouring paint with painter's tape. The coating belongs on unpainted plastic, but on clear coat it can leave ugly streaks that are a pain to remove. Work in small sections of 20 cm at most and, after three to five minutes of dwell time, wipe down straight away with a clean microfibre cloth. That's how you avoid excess and get an even result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePlastic coating with Si-carbon technology — why ceramic works on plastic\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CeramicCoating CC Plastic+Rubber\u003c\/strong\u003e coating uses the same Si-carbon base technology SONAX developed for its paint coatings — but in an adapted formula tuned to the particular nature of unpainted plastic and rubber. Plastic parts on the exterior of a car are typically made of polypropylene (PP) or thermoplastic elastomers (TPE), both porous and UV-sensitive. The coating turns that very porosity to its advantage: it works into the surface structure and builds a silicon-carbon matrix there that protects the plastic from the inside out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe key difference from classic silicone-oil dressings: silicone oils sit on the surface as a film and give a short-lived shine, but wash off at the next clean or in the rain. The Si-carbon coating, by contrast, forms a chemical bond that stands up to alkaline cleaners and mechanical stress alike. That's why SONAX explicitly recommends pH-neutral shampoos after coating, such as SONAX GlanzShampoo or ActiFoam — not because the coating is delicate, but because alkaline cleaners cut its lifespan short for no reason.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne common misunderstanding: the coating doesn't make plastic \"glossy\" in the high-shine paint sense. It restores the factory satin sheen that new plastic parts have — a rich, deep tone without a greasy oil film. If you want a loud wet-look on your plastic, you're better off with a plastic dressing. But if you want to lock in the original condition for the long haul, the CeramicCoating CC Plastic+Rubber is the right call.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe flexibility of the formula deserves a special mention: conventional ceramic coatings for paint are hard and rigid once cured — no problem on a solid base like clear coat. Plastic parts, and tyres especially, flex on every drive, with temperature swings and under load. A rigid coating would crack and flake here within a few weeks. So SONAX deliberately built the Si-carbon formula for Plastic+Rubber to stay elastic: the cross-link structure allows micro-movement without the protective layer cracking. That's the technical reason a separate coating for plastic is needed, and why you shouldn't just lay your paint coating onto the trim.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHow to apply plastic coating properly — prep, application and curing\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eApplying the \u003cstrong\u003eplastic coating\u003c\/strong\u003e correctly is what decides the durability and the look. The process takes more care than a simple plastic dressing, but in return it delivers results that last 20 to 30 times longer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePrep\u003c\/strong\u003e starts with a thorough car wash. After that, the plastic parts you're treating have to be degreased with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e — this step isn't optional. Old silicone residue from previous plastic dressings stops the coating from bonding properly. Wipe every surface with a clean microfibre cloth and Prepare until the cloth shows no more residue. The surface has to be absolutely clean, dry and grease-free.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor \u003cstrong\u003eapplication\u003c\/strong\u003e, use the foam applicator pads supplied. Put a few drops of the coating on the soft side of the pad and spread it thin and even across the plastic surface in small sections. Work methodically — say the left trim first, then the right, then the bumper. After three to five minutes of dwell time, wipe off any excess product with a clean, dry microfibre cloth. Don't wait too long: once the coating dries on, it's hard to get off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCuring\u003c\/strong\u003e needs at least six hours in a dry environment — twelve hours is better for the chemical reaction to finish. During that time the car mustn't get wet, and the treated surfaces mustn't be touched. So plan the job so the car can sit in a garage or hall overnight. Once fully cured, the coating is car-wash-proof and develops its full water and dirt repellency. A good sign of a successful cure: spray water on the treated surface and it should bead off in clean drops rather than form a film. You can use this beading effect as a quality check after the curing time — if there's no beading, the coating may have gone on too thin, or the prep wasn't good enough.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe set includes four applicator pads — enough for a whole car, plastic parts and tyres included. On big SUVs or cars with a lot of plastic add-ons, a second set can make sense. The 50 ml of coating fluid goes a very long way — with correct, thin application you'll usually have some left over for a second pass or a touch-up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFaded trim and tyre care — ideal use cases\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CeramicCoating CC Plastic+Rubber\u003c\/strong\u003e does its best work on two surfaces: badly faded plastic trim and tyres.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn \u003cstrong\u003etrim and bumpers\u003c\/strong\u003e the effect is most dramatic when the plastic has already faded noticeably. The coating brings back the rich black and locks it in for up to two years. On older cars or used cars that have stood outside for a long time, a plastic coating can take years off the car's overall look. In a detailing business this is a popular upsell: the plastic revival is visible to the naked eye and instantly obvious to the customer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor \u003cstrong\u003etyres\u003c\/strong\u003e, the coating offers an interesting alternative to ordinary tyre dressings. Instead of reapplying after every wash, the ceramic layer holds for several months. The tyre gets a subtle satin sheen without the typical wet-look of cheap tyre dressings. You do have to be honest here, though: on tyres the durability is shorter than on plastic trim, because the mechanical load from road contact and flexing is higher. Count on three to six months rather than 24. Still far more than any spray dressing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe coating also does well on wheel-arch liners, unpainted mirror caps, plastic door handles and wiper arms. It isn't suited to already-painted plastic parts (those belong to the paint workflow) or to rubber seals around the doors — there, plasticiser-rich seal dressings are the better choice, because seals need to stay flexible and the coating adds nothing over a good rubber dressing here.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne thing many people underrate: the coating's effect is cumulative. Lay down a second layer after 18 to 24 months and you boost the UV protection and deepen the colour revival once more. On cars whose plastic has already aged and gone porous, the first layer can't seal the full depth of the surface. The second layer closes the remaining pores and gives an even richer, more even black. In professional detailing it's even worth applying two layers straight away on badly weathered parts, with six hours of curing between them — the result clearly beats a single thick coat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePlastic coating compared — ceramic coating vs. silicone-oil dressing vs. plastic dressing\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn plastic care there are three basic approaches: ceramic coatings like the CC Plastic+Rubber, silicone-oil dressings and water-based plastic dressings.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSilicone-oil dressings\u003c\/strong\u003e like the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-gummipfleger-gummipflege-reifenpflege\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GummiPfleger\u003c\/a\u003e are the fastest, cheapest option. Apply, let it dwell, done. The downside: the effect lasts two weeks at most and the dressing partly washes off at every clean. For customers who top up their plastic at every wash, that's fine. For detailing businesses that have to deliver a lasting result, it isn't.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater-based dressings\u003c\/strong\u003e give a richer shine than silicone oils and last a bit longer — typically three to six weeks. They're the go-to in the show-and-shine world, where maximum visual impact is what counts. The durability stays limited, though.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CeramicCoating CC Plastic+Rubber\u003c\/strong\u003e plays in a different league: 24 months instead of 24 days. The price per application is higher, but spread across the lifespan the coating is the most economical solution. For the home user who'd rather treat their plastic twice a year than at every wash, the coating is the most convenient option. For the detailing business it's the most professional — because the customer comes back twelve months later and the trim is still black.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother difference that shows up day-to-day: how dirt clings. Silicone-oil dressings tend to pull dust and pollen in like a magnet — the oil film acts like flypaper. Surfaces coated with Si-carbon technology, by contrast, are anti-stick: dirt clings far worse and gets washed away at the next clean, or even by rain. In practice that means the plastic parts stay much cleaner between washes — an effect that jumps out straight away on light-coloured cars with black plastic add-ons.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor cars washed daily — rental cars, company cars or taxis — the long-term angle of the coating really matters. Here an ordinary plastic dressing would literally get washed off every day. The ceramic coating, on the other hand, stands up to the mechanical stress of frequent washing and still holds for six to twelve months even under those extreme conditions. For fleet managers who have to guarantee a consistent look without daily upkeep, that's a serious advantage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying plastic coating — who the CC Plastic+Rubber is worth it for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CeramicCoating CC Plastic+Rubber\u003c\/strong\u003e is aimed at detailing pros and demanding home users who want to take their plastic care up a level. It makes the most sense on cars with large unpainted plastic areas — SUVs, off-roaders, commercial vehicles and older saloons with black bumpers get the most out of it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the \u003cstrong\u003eprofessional detailing business\u003c\/strong\u003e the coating is an excellent companion to paint protection. If you seal the paint with the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-one-paint-keramikversiegelung\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE CeramicCoating CC One\u003c\/a\u003e, don't leave the plastic out — faded trim next to freshly coated paint stands out all the more. The CC Plastic+Rubber rounds out the whole-car protection and delivers a consistent result across every surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor \u003cstrong\u003ehome users\u003c\/strong\u003e, the coating pays off from the second year of use: instead of applying a plastic dressing every two weeks, you treat the parts once and you're set for 24 months. The set with 50 ml and four applicator pads is sized for a whole car. Plan the first application for a day with stable weather and access to a garage — the twelve hours of curing without moisture are the single most important condition for a long-lasting result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne more practical note on care after coating: in the first few weeks, keep insect removers and alkaline pre-cleaners off the coated plastic. For routine washing, use pH-neutral shampoos like the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-actifoam-energy-reinigungsschaum\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE ActiFoam Energy\u003c\/a\u003e — it's pH-neutral and won't attack the ceramic layer. For stubborn dirt on the plastic, a soft microfibre cloth with warm water is enough. The coating's hydrophobic nature means most grime just runs off during a normal wash — you'll notice the coated parts need far less attention at wash time than they used to. And that, in the end, is the coating's biggest day-to-day win: less upkeep for a better result.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"50ml + 4x applicator pads","offer_id":53520119333199,"sku":"D1-SNX-2410000","price":44.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-plastic-rubber-kunststoffversiegelung_50ml.png?v=1730647085"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-ex-04-06-hochglanz-politur","title":"PROFILINE EX \"04-06\" High-Gloss Polish (Finish)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eHologram-free high-gloss finish with the SONAX EX 04-06 polish for dual-action machines\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat can the SONAX EX 04-06 do? A finishing polish with cut level 4 and gloss level 6 — built specifically for dual-action machines, it pulls out light paint defects and lays down a hologram-free high-gloss finish in a single pass, silicone-free and low-dust.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDual-action machines are the go-to for a lot of detailers because they're safer to handle than rotaries — less heat build-up, less risk of holograms, less chance of burning through the clear coat. The catch: not every polish is built for the dual-action motion. Plenty of polishes that work brilliantly on the rotary only deliver a fraction of their power on a DA, because the lower heat slows the abrasive breakdown. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 04-06\u003c\/strong\u003e was developed specifically for this machine type: its abrasive blend breaks down reliably even at the lower friction energy of a dual-action machine, and with a cut of 4\/5 and a gloss of 6\/5 it gets you a result on the DA that's almost identical to a two-step process of cutting and finishing polish on the rotary. If you work with a dual-action machine and want to correct light to medium paint defects, the EX 04-06 is the obvious pick.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBuilt for the dual-action motion.\u003c\/strong\u003e The formulation of the EX 04-06 is tuned to the specific kinematics of dual-action machines. The abrasive particles break down at lower temperature and lower pressure than with classic rotary polishes — meaning you get the full power on the DA without having to lean in. That behaviour makes the EX 04-06 especially beginner-friendly: even without years of polishing experience, moderate pressure and a mid-range speed get you a professional result.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHologram-free high gloss.\u003c\/strong\u003e The gloss level of 6\/5 — the top mark in the SONAX system — means the polish leaves a finish that's free of holograms, swirls and buffer marks. On dark paint, where every defect shows up straight away, this is the point that matters. The EX 04-06 produces a result on black or dark-blue paint that stays flawless even under direct sunlight and LED inspection light.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSilicone-free and bodyshop-safe.\u003c\/strong\u003e Like all SONAX PROFILINE polishes, the EX 04-06 is silicone-free. In bodyshops that polish and paint side by side, that's a must — silicone residue on neighbouring vehicles or shop surfaces can cause craters during a respray. Being silicone-free also makes the EX 04-06 a first choice for prep ahead of a ceramic coating, where an absolutely silicone-free surface gives the best bonding.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Run the EX 04-06 with a medium foam pad (orange in the SONAX colour system) at speed 4 to 5 on the dual-action machine. Drop three pea-sized dabs onto the pad, spread them at low speed and then work with moderate pressure in slow, overlapping passes. The key to a perfect result: slow machine movement. Move the machine about two to three centimetres per second across the surface — noticeably slower than most beginners do it by instinct. That's the only way the abrasives get enough contact time to fully cut out the defects and bring up the high gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFinishing polish for dual-action machines — why the EX range is formulated differently from rotary polishes\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 04-06\u003c\/strong\u003e belongs to the EX range, which SONAX developed specifically for dual-action machines. The technical background: a dual-action machine moves the pad on a circular orbit with a simultaneous rotation — this double motion generates less friction energy per unit of area than the pure rotation of a rotary machine. Polishes built for the rotary need that higher energy to break their abrasives down fully. On a dual-action machine they only break down partway — the result is coarse leftover particles that leave micro-marring and holograms instead of bringing up gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe EX range solves this with an adapted particle size and binder matrix. The abrasives are smaller and break down at lower energy input — perfect for the dual-action motion. The flip side: on a rotary the abrasive breaks down too fast, and the polish loses its cut before the defects are fully removed. So the EX 04-06 is no replacement for rotary polishes like the CutMax or Cut+Finish — it's their counterpart for a different class of machine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDay-to-day, the difference shows up most on hard European clear coats, which are tougher to work with the dual-action machine than soft Japanese paints. On these clears the EX 04-06 gives enough working time and cut to keep performing consistently even after several polishing passes — something cheaper DA polishes often can't manage, because their formulation is spent after the first pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne practical angle: plenty of detailers own both a dual-action and a rotary machine and switch depending on the panel. On big, flat areas like the bonnet and roof the rotary is more efficient, while on edges, body lines and curved sections the dual-action machine gives you more safety margin. In that mixed workflow the EX 04-06 is the finishing product for all the dual-action sections — while a polish like the Cut+Finish or PerfectFinish handles the rotary sections. If you want to stick with a single machine and prefer the dual-action, the EX range gives you a complete system that asks for no compromise on performance.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHow to use a dual-action polish properly — speed, pressure and machine movement\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eUsing the \u003cstrong\u003eEX 04-06\u003c\/strong\u003e on the dual-action machine follows a clear scheme: a medium to soft polishing pad, a mid-range speed (step 4 to 5 on most machines), moderate pressure and slow machine movement. That combination is the key to a hologram-free result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDrop three pea-sized dabs of polish onto the pad and spread them at the lowest speed across the panel. Then step up to working speed and polish in slow, overlapping passes across the whole section. Slow here means: two to three centimetres per second. Most beginners move the machine too fast — the pad glides over the surface without enough time to cut the defects out. A slower movement increases the contact time per unit of area and uses the abrasive fully.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003epressure\u003c\/strong\u003e should be moderate — just enough that the pad sits evenly on the surface. Unlike the rotary, where more pressure means more cut, the dual-action machine reacts to excess pressure in reverse: the dual-action motion gets choked, the pad spins slower, and the cut drops instead of climbing. If you notice the machine bogging down under pressure, you're leaning in too hard — back off and let the machine do the work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA common mistake: too much polish on the pad. Three pea-sized dabs are enough for a section of about fifty by fifty centimetres — more product dilutes the cut and stretches the working time without improving the result. If the polish is still sitting milky-thick on the surface after the pass, you've either laid on too much or moved the machine too fast. Cut the amount on the next section and move the machine slower — the result picks up straight away.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn temperature: the dual-action machine generates less heat than a rotary, but on dark paint in summer sun the surface temperature can still get problematic. Work in a shaded spot or garage and check the temperature now and then with the back of your hand. Ideal ambient temperatures are between fifteen and twenty-five degrees Celsius at moderate humidity, to keep working conditions optimal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter the polishing pass, wipe the residue off with a clean, soft microfibre cloth and check the result under an LED inspection lamp. On dark paint it's worth an extra check under direct sunlight — some holograms and swirls only show up under natural light, because the LED lamp hits at a different angle. Once you're happy with the result, comes the degreasing with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e — only then do you see the actual result without polishing oils.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCorrecting light to medium paint defects — the ideal use cases\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 04-06\u003c\/strong\u003e isn't built for heavy defect correction — for that there's the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ex-05-05-schleif-politur-heavy-cut\"\u003eEX 05-05 with cut 5\/5\u003c\/a\u003e. The strength of the EX 04-06 sits in a different area: correcting light to medium defects in a single pass while producing the best possible finish at the same time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe most common use case is the \u003cstrong\u003esingle-stage polish on near-new paint\u003c\/strong\u003e. Vehicles one to three years old typically show wash marring, light swirls and a general dullness in the clear coat. The EX 04-06 removes these surface defects in one pass and leaves a high gloss that sits above factory-new level. For detailers who regularly work on lease returns or young used cars, that's the typical job.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother scenario: \u003cstrong\u003efinishing after a cutting stage\u003c\/strong\u003e. When the paint has first been worked with a cutting polish (the EX 05-05, say, or the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur\"\u003eCutMax\u003c\/a\u003e), the EX 04-06 removes the leftover micro-marring and holograms in the second step and brings the paint to a high gloss. This two-step process — cutting polish plus finishing polish — is the gold standard in professional paint correction and gets you the best results on demanding dark paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe EX 04-06 is also ideal for \u003cstrong\u003eprep ahead of a coating\u003c\/strong\u003e. Before a ceramic coating or paint protection film goes on, the paint has to be in the best possible condition — any defect locked in under the coating stays visible for its entire service life. The EX 04-06 gives you exactly the surface a coating needs: defect-free, hologram-free and free of silicone residue.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne scenario that often gets underrated: \u003cstrong\u003eworking on vehicles with part-wrapped sections\u003c\/strong\u003e. When a vehicle has both painted and wrapped panels, the polish must not get onto the film — polishing residue can settle into the film texture and is hard to get out of there. The controlled way the dual-action machine works, combined with the EX 04-06, minimises the risk of splatter and lets you work precisely right up to the film edge. For these situations the dual-action machine clearly beats the rotary, because it slings off less product.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eDual-action polish comparison — EX 04-06 vs. EX 05-05 vs. NP 03-06\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE range offers three finishing polishes to choose from, differing in cut and gloss:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eEX 05-05\u003c\/strong\u003e is the more aggressive sibling: cut 5\/5, gloss 5\/5. It comes in when the defects are too deep for the EX 04-06 — things like P1500 sanding marks, heavier weathering or scratches that go beyond the typical wash marring. The gloss level of 5\/5 is good, but not at the level of the EX 04-06 — for the highest finishing standards, a pass with the EX 04-06 follows the EX 05-05.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eNP 03-06\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e is the gentlest option: cut 3\/5, gloss 6\/5. It's meant for paint that barely shows any defects and just needs that final polishing touch — after a thorough cutting stage, say, or on new cars that only need a light refresh. The lower cut also makes it the safest pick on extremely thin clear coats or historic paint, where every bit of material removal should be kept to a minimum.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eEX 04-06\u003c\/strong\u003e is the all-rounder between these extremes: enough cut for typical everyday defects, maximum gloss for a professional finish. For most single-stage polishes on the dual-action machine it's the best choice — versatile enough for day-to-day work, strong enough on the finishing side for demanding dark paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy the EX 04-06 — bottle sizes and workflow recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 04-06\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml and 1000 ml. The 250 ml bottle is enough for several complete vehicle polishes — product use on the dual-action machine is moderate, because the polish works efficiently and needs few reloads. The 1000 ml bottle is the standard size for shops and keen private users who polish regularly. With the value combo you save on top of buying single — especially for detailers who run the EX 04-06 as their standard finishing polish, the stock pack pays off fast.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the optimal workflow on the dual-action machine we recommend: on light defects, the EX 04-06 as a single-step solution on a medium pad. On medium defects, first the EX 05-05 on a hard pad, then the EX 04-06 on a soft pad for the finish. After that, degrease with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e and, if needed, seal with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-polymernetshield-lackversiegelung\"\u003ePolymerNetShield\u003c\/a\u003e or a CeramicCoating of your choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA note on storage: the EX 04-06 tends to separate slightly when left standing for a while. Shake the bottle thoroughly before every use, until the consistency is evenly creamy. Store the product frost-free and sealed — frozen polish loses its abrasive structure and won't go on evenly after that, and should be thrown away.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor beginners stuck between the EX 04-06 and a rotary polish, the recommendation is clear: if you've got no machine-polishing experience yet, start with the dual-action machine and the EX 04-06. The combination is far more forgiving than a rotary with an aggressive cutting polish. You can learn the technique calmly, without fear of burn-throughs or holograms. The result might not quite reach what an experienced polisher gets on the rotary — but it'll be solid, safe and more than enough for the vast majority of needs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53520265773391,"sku":"D1-SNX-2421410","price":15.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53520265806159,"sku":"D1-SNX-2423000","price":36.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53520265871695,"sku":"D1-SNX-2421410_2","price":28.12,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53520265904463,"sku":"D1-SNX-2421410_3","price":42.18,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520265937231,"sku":"D1-SNX-2423000_2","price":64.97,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520265969999,"sku":"D1-SNX-2423000_3","price":95.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-ex-04-06-hochglanz-politur.png?v=1730648016"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-ex-05-05-schleif-politur-heavy-cut","title":"PROFILINE EX \"05-05\" Cutting Compound (Heavy-Cut)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRemove deep scratches on the dual-action polisher with the SONAX EX 05-05 cutting compound\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat can the SONAX EX 05-05 do? A heavy-cut cutting compound for dual-action polishers with a cut rating of 5\/5 and a gloss rating of 5\/5 — it removes deep scratches, sanding marks up to P1500 and heavy weathering, and with the HybridwollPad it gets you results on a rotary level.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor a long time, dual-action polishers were seen as the safe but weak tool — fine for finishing work, but no good for serious defect correction. Deep scratches, sanding marks and heavy weathering were the domain of the rotary, because only it built enough friction energy for the material removal you need. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 05-05\u003c\/strong\u003e breaks with that limitation. Paired with a HybridwollPad, this cutting compound gets you results on the dual-action that used to be reserved for the rotary: sanding marks up to P1500 disappear in a single pass, deep scratches and etching are pulled out reliably, and the 5\/5 gloss rating leaves a finish that often needs no extra polishing step. For detailers who want to — or have to — work the dual-action only, because the rotary is too risky on certain paints, the EX 05-05 is the cutting compound of choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHeavy-cut on the dual-action.\u003c\/strong\u003e With a cut rating of 5\/5, the EX 05-05 is the most aggressive polish in the SONAX EX line-up. Its abrasive blend is built so it still generates enough cut even at the lower friction energy of dual-action motion, enough to remove deep scratches and sanding marks up to P1500. Paired with the HybridwollPad — a pad that combines foam and lambswool fibres — cutting power climbs noticeably again, because the wool fibres add friction that pure foam pads simply can't deliver.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHigh gloss at the same time.\u003c\/strong\u003e The 5\/5 gloss rating shows the EX 05-05 doesn't just cut, it polishes too. The abrasives break down progressively over the polishing pass — from coarse to fine — and leave a surface that on many paints is already the end result you wanted. When the finish demands the very best, a short pass with the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ex-04-06-hochglanz-politur\"\u003eEX 04-06\u003c\/a\u003e follows, but for everyday needs the EX 05-05 often does the job as a one-step solution.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSilicone-free and low-dust.\u003c\/strong\u003e The formula is free of silicones and, thanks to its optimised consistency, works almost dust-free. In paint shops the silicone-free build eliminates the contamination risk, and the low-dust working saves time on the clean-up. Especially with heavy defect correction that takes several passes and a lot of polishing work, the low-dust formula makes a real difference in comfort and in how clean your work area stays.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e For maximum cut on the dual-action, pair the EX 05-05 with the SONAX HybridwollPad and work at speed 5 to 6 (depending on the machine). Apply moderate pressure and guide the machine across the surface at two to three centimetres per second — clearly slower than when you're finish-polishing. The trick: let the machine do the work and use the weight of the tool as your natural down-pressure. Don't force the machine into the surface — that stalls the dual-action motion and reduces the cut instead of raising it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCutting compound for the dual-action — how the EX 05-05 gets rotary results on a DA\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe key to the performance of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 05-05\u003c\/strong\u003e lies in the match between abrasive and pad. The abrasive particles are sized to work best at the specific friction energy of a dual-action polisher: big enough for effective cut, small enough for controlled particle break-down. On a rotary these particles would break too fast and lose their cutting power — so the EX 05-05 isn't a universal polish, it's a specialist for the dual-action motion.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe HybridwollPad amplifies this effect: the lambswool fibres create extra micro-friction on the surface that boosts material removal, while the foam core keeps the heat in check. The result: a cut on the dual-action that gets close to the level of a rotary with a medium-hard foam pad — without the rotary's risks (holograms, hot spots, burning through on edges).\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe EX 05-05 plus HybridwollPad combo does have its limits, though: sanding marks of P1000 and coarser can't be fully removed in a single pass on the dual-action, even with this aggressive pairing. Here the rotary with a polish like the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur\"\u003eCutMax\u003c\/a\u003e stays on top. The EX 05-05 covers the range from P1500 down to light P1200 marks — and in that range it gives you a result on the dual-action that makes switching to the rotary unnecessary.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor anyone who rarely uses their dual-action for heavy-cut, an important note: the performance of the EX 05-05 depends a lot on the quality of the dual-action. Cheap entry-level DAs with a short throw (8 mm) and a weak motor hit their limits fast on heavy defects. Machines with a long throw (15 to 21 mm) like the common pro models deliver far more friction energy and tap the EX 05-05's potential better. If you're planning to do heavy-cut work on the dual-action regularly, the investment in a long-throw machine pays off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the EX 05-05 the right way — pad choice, speed and technique\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eEX 05-05\u003c\/strong\u003e shows its full strength paired with the HybridwollPad. For less aggressive jobs — say on near-new paint with only light scratches — a hard foam pad (orange) works too, giving slightly less cut at slightly higher gloss. On a soft finishing pad the compound loses too much cutting power — for pure finish-polishing the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ex-04-06-hochglanz-politur\"\u003eEX 04-06\u003c\/a\u003e is the better call.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePut three to four pea-sized dots on the pad and spread the compound over the panel at a low speed. Step up to speed 5 to 6 and work in slow, overlapping passes across the section. A typical section — about half a fender — takes three to four minutes on the dual-action. By the end of the pass the compound should sit clear and thin on the surface — the sign that the abrasives have fully broken down.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003emachine handling\u003c\/strong\u003e on the EX 05-05 differs from a finishing polish: with heavy-cut you can apply a bit more pressure than when finish-polishing, but only ever enough that the dual-action motion doesn't come to a stop. The moment you feel the machine stalling or vibrating, take the pressure off straight away. A stalling pad creates localised heat that can cause thermal damage on sensitive paints — showing up as light discolouration or dullness that even re-polishing can no longer fully correct.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen you work on \u003cstrong\u003eedges and raised lines\u003c\/strong\u003e, take extra care: the clearcoat there is often only half as thick as on the flats. Drop the pressure clearly in these areas and rather run one extra pass with little pressure than a single pass with too much cut. A coating thickness gauge before you start gives you certainty about the room you've got to work with.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter the pass, wipe the residue off with a clean microfibre cloth and check under LED light. If defects are still visible, repeat the pass on the same section. With the EX 05-05, two to three passes per panel on hard European paints are nothing unusual — on softer Japanese or Korean paints a single pass is often enough. Match your expectations to the paint type and plan in enough time, instead of giving up after one pass when the result isn't right yet.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDegrease the polished surface afterwards with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e to see the true result. Polishing oils can visually mask leftover defects — under Prepare it becomes clear whether all the scratches have really gone or whether another pass is needed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHeavy-cut on the dual-action — typical use cases\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe main field for the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 05-05\u003c\/strong\u003e is defect correction on paints that are too sensitive for the rotary, or where you prefer the safety of the dual-action. Day-to-day, that comes down to a few scenarios:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen you're \u003cstrong\u003edetailing dark paints\u003c\/strong\u003e (black, dark blue, dark grey), the dual-action is the safer call, because it throws fewer holograms than the rotary. On these demanding colours the EX 05-05 delivers enough cut to remove scratches and swirls, and the 5\/5 gloss rating keeps the rework to a minimum. On black paint a short finishing pass with the EX 04-06 often makes sense, to pull out that last bit of deep gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn \u003cstrong\u003ecars with a thin clearcoat layer\u003c\/strong\u003e — measured with a coating thickness gauge — the dual-action gives you more control over material removal. The EX 05-05 removes defects efficiently, but more controlled than a rotary polish, because the dual-action motion takes off less per unit of time. That gives you the chance to check progress after every pass and stop in time, before the clearcoat gets too thin.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor \u003cstrong\u003escratch removal in hard-to-reach spots\u003c\/strong\u003e — door-handle recesses, swage lines, transitions between panels — the compact dual-action with a small pad (75 mm or 125 mm) is a better fit than the big rotary. The EX 05-05 works on all common pad sizes and adapts flexibly to the panel geometry.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne more scenario that pro detailers value: \u003cstrong\u003ecorrecting transport damage and car-wash scratches\u003c\/strong\u003e on new vehicles. Plenty of new cars arrive at the dealer with fine to medium scratches — caused by film removal, transport securing or careless cleaning out on the lot. The EX 05-05 removes these defects on the safe dual-action, without putting the thin factory paint at risk. Combined with a final ceramic coating, the car ends up better protected than it was in delivery condition.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCutting compound comparison — EX 05-05 vs. CutMax vs. Cut+Finish\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe three key cutting compounds in the SONAX PROFILINE range cover different machine types and demands:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur\"\u003eCutMax (6\/4)\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e is the cutting compound for the rotary — maximum cut (6\/5), moderate gloss (4\/5), optimised for the high friction energy of the rotary. It's the first choice for heavy defects from P1000 up on the rotary.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-cut-finish-einstufen-politur\"\u003eCut+Finish (5\/5)\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e is the one-step solution for the rotary — same cut value as the EX 05-05, but with a high-gloss finish at the same time. It covers the range from P1500 up and combines cutting and finishing in a single pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eEX 05-05 (5\/5)\u003c\/strong\u003e is the counterpart to the Cut+Finish for the dual-action: same performance values, but a formula optimised for the kinematics of the DA. If you own a dual-action and want to do heavy defect correction, you reach for the EX 05-05. If you've got a rotary, you take the Cut+Finish or CutMax. A universal polish that works equally well on both machine types doesn't exist — the physical demands of the two motions are too different. That's why SONAX deliberately developed separate product lines for rotary and dual-action with the PROFILINE range, rather than offering compromise products that don't show their full strength on either machine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the EX 05-05 — sizes and recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 05-05\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml and 1000 ml. For the occasional job detailing your own car, the 250 ml bottle is enough — a full defect correction uses between 50 and 100 ml depending on the size of the car and how bad the defects are. The 1000 ml bottle is the more economical option for detailing businesses and keen enthusiasts.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the optimal workflow for the dual-action, the EX 05-05 is the first step (heavy-cut), followed by the EX 04-06 as the finishing step and \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e for degreasing and checking the result. This two-step process on the dual-action gets you results that come close to a three-step process on the rotary — at clearly lower risk of holograms and burn-through.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnyone with both EX-series polishes on the shelf — the EX 05-05 for heavy-cut and the EX 04-06 for finish — is set up for every dual-action job. The two products complement each other perfectly: the EX 05-05 removes the heavy defects, the EX 04-06 pulls out the last bit of gloss. Together they replace a three-product system (cutting paste, cutting compound, finishing polish) of the kind that's standard with the rotary — fewer products, fewer pad changes, fewer things to get wrong.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor economical use: the product consumption of the EX 05-05 on heavy-cut work runs a bit higher than on a finishing polish, because you need more passes per panel. For a full defect correction on the dual-action, count on around 80 to 120 ml per car — depending on the size of the car and how bad the defects are. The 250 ml bottle does two to three cars that way, the 1000 ml bottle eight to twelve.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne tip for pad care: the HybridwollPad should be cleaned thoroughly after every car — polish residue in the wool fibres hardens and reduces cutting power on the next job. Rinse the pad out under warm water after the work and let it dry fully before you use it again. You can tell a worn-out HybridwollPad by the wool fibres being flattened and no longer springing back — that's when it's time for a new pad. Rather invest in a fresh pad than in an extra polishing pass: the cut of a new pad is noticeably higher than that of a worn one, and the result more even. Professional outfits change the HybridwollPad after five to eight cars at the latest — beyond that the wool structure is so compacted that the cut drops off noticeably and you're no longer getting the full efficiency out of the EX 05-05.\u003c\/p\u003e\n","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53520446619983,"sku":"D1-SNX-2451410","price":17.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53520446652751,"sku":"D1-SNX-2453000","price":39.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53520446685519,"sku":"D1-SNX-2451410_2","price":35.78,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53520446718287,"sku":"D1-SNX-2451410_3","price":53.67,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520446751055,"sku":"D1-SNX-2453000_2","price":79.78,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3 x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520446783823,"sku":"D1-SNX-2453000_3","price":119.67,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-ex-05-05-schleif-politur-heavy-cut.png?v=1730649133"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur","title":"PROFILINE CutMax \"6\/4\" cutting compound (down to P1000)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRemove deep scratches and sanding marks with the SONAX CutMax cutting compound\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX CutMax do? A cutting compound with maximum cut (6\/4) that pulls out sanding marks from P1000 grit, deep scratches and paint overspray — low-dust thanks to Low Dust Technology, dialled in for rotary machines.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen the paint is hammered badly enough that a normal polish just won't cut it anymore, the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CutMax\u003c\/strong\u003e steps in. With a cut rating of 6 on the SONAX scale, it's the most aggressive polish in the PROFILINE range — built for jobs where you need maximum material removal: deep scratches, P1000 sanding marks, orange peel, paint fog and badly weathered paintwork. Despite that heavy cut, the CutMax works almost dust-free thanks to Low Dust Technology and leaves a gloss level of 4\/5, which in most cases only needs a quick finishing step after it. For body shops and pro detailers, the CutMax is the tool of choice when efficiency on defect removal beats everything else.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMaximum cut for heavy defects.\u003c\/strong\u003e The abrasive blend in the CutMax is built for fast, deep cutting. It pulls out sanding marks from P1000 in a single pass — a range lighter polishes simply can't reach. Baked-on bug splatter, deep scratches and years of neglected weathering get cut away just as effectively. That cut saves real time in the bay, because you need fewer passes than with milder products.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLow Dust Technology for clean work.\u003c\/strong\u003e With a lot of polishes, heavy cut also means heavy dust — a problem that settles into panel gaps, seals and across the whole workspace and needs serious cleanup. The CutMax solves that with its dedicated Low Dust formula: the compound stays on the pad and on the surface through the whole process instead of dusting off. That saves you the cleanup and keeps polishing dust out of freshly painted areas — a critical point in body shops.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eGood gloss despite the heavy cut.\u003c\/strong\u003e A gloss level of 4\/5 is remarkable for a cutting compound this aggressive. Plenty of competing products with a comparable cut leave a dull, hazy finish that absolutely needs a finishing step. The CutMax gets much closer to the end result — on a lot of paints a quick pass with a finishing polish like the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PerfectFinish\u003c\/a\u003e is all it takes to hit showroom gloss.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Run the CutMax on the rotary with a hard foam pad (white) or a lambswool pad for maximum cut. Start at 1000 rpm to spread the compound out, then take it up to 1500–1800 rpm for the actual cutting. Work in rows with 50 percent overlap and lay down even, moderate pressure — the abrasives need friction, not heavy pressure. After each pass, check with an LED light whether the defects are fully gone before you move to the finishing step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCut 6\/4 — how the CutMax can take heavy paint defects out in one pass\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CutMax\u003c\/strong\u003e hits its high cut through a mix of specially sized abrasive particles and a formula that keeps the cut steady across the whole pass. Unlike basic cutting compounds, whose cut drops off noticeably after the first thirty seconds because the abrasives break down too fast, the CutMax holds its cutting power through the entire work cycle. In practice that means: one pass of two to three minutes per section is enough to fully remove even deep sanding marks — instead of the three or four passes you'd need with a weaker polish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe gloss level of 4\/5 shows the CutMax isn't a pure cutting paste but a cutting compound with controlled particle breakdown. The abrasives start out aggressive and break down into finer particles over the pass, which already take care of part of the finish. The result is a surface that's noticeably smoother and glossier than after a pure cutting paste — but not yet at the level of a dedicated finishing polish. For shops that need to get to a presentable result fast after wet sanding, that in-between stage is often already enough when concours quality isn't on the table.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne important difference to the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-cut-finish-einstufen-politur\"\u003eSONAX Cut+Finish (5\/5)\u003c\/a\u003e: the CutMax has the higher cut and comes in where the Cut+Finish doesn't pull enough material anymore — so with P1000 sanding marks, deep scratches and heavy weathering. The Cut+Finish is the one-step solution from P1500, the CutMax is the heavy hammer for everything below that. In a lot of shops both products sit side by side: the Cut+Finish for most of the day-to-day work, the CutMax for the heavy cases.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing a cutting compound right — machine, pad and technique for maximum cut\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CutMax\u003c\/strong\u003e shows its full potential on the rotary machine. The pure rotation builds more friction and heat than a dual-action machine — exactly the energy a cutting compound at this level needs to deliver maximum cut. It works on a dual-action machine too, but with a clearly reduced cut: you need more passes and more time for the same result. If you regularly tackle heavy correction, the rotary is the right investment.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003epad choice\u003c\/strong\u003e heavily shapes the result. For maximum cut, go for a hard foam pad (white in the SONAX colour system) or a lambswool pad. The lambswool pad gives the highest cut of all pad types but also leaves the roughest surface — ideal for the first pass on heavy defects, followed by a foam pad for the refinement. A medium pad reduces the cut and suits paints that need less correction, or sensitive areas like edges and creases, where too aggressive a cut could burn through the clear coat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor application, put three to four pea-sized dots on the pad and spread the compound across the panel at low speed. Then take it up to working speed and polish in rows with fifty percent overlap. Work in sections of around forty by forty centimetres — small enough to stay in control, big enough to make efficient progress. Listen to the machine: a steady hum tells you the pad is working cleanly on the surface. A rattle or vibration points to too much pressure or a clogged pad.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter the cutting pass, wipe the compound residue off with a clean microfibre cloth and check the result under an LED light. If the defects are fully gone, the finishing step follows. If marks are still showing, repeat the pass — better a second controlled pass than a single one with too much pressure that can cause holograms or heat spots.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA common beginner mistake working with the CutMax: too much product on the pad. A cutting compound needs less product than a finishing polish, because the cut comes from the abrasives, not from the volume of paste. Three to four small dots are enough for a section of forty by forty centimetres. Too much product thins out the cutting action, drags out the pass and makes wiping harder. In pro shops, experienced polishers sometimes work with even less product — they make up for the smaller amount with precise machine control that gets the most out of the abrasive that's there.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne important note on \u003cstrong\u003eheat control\u003c\/strong\u003e: the rotary builds serious heat when you work with a cutting compound. On dark paints the surface temperature can climb past seventy degrees in a few seconds — a temperature that can damage the clear coat. Check the temperature regularly by running the back of your hand over the surface. When it gets uncomfortably warm, let the section cool briefly before you carry on. On edges, creases and raised lines the heat build-up is especially critical, because the paint layer there is thinner than on flat panels.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCorrecting heavy paint defects — the ideal use cases for the CutMax\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe main job for the \u003cstrong\u003eCutMax\u003c\/strong\u003e is defect correction after wet sanding with P1000 to P1200 grit. In the body shop that's the most common use: after a blend-in or spot repair, the transition between new and old paint gets wet sanded, and the CutMax then takes the sanding marks out in a single pass. The compound being silicone-free is key here — in a shop environment where paint goes on every day, there can be no silicone risk.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn \u003cstrong\u003ereconditioning badly neglected vehicles\u003c\/strong\u003e the CutMax shows its strength too. Paints that have been exposed to sun, bird droppings, tree sap and industrial fallout for years build up an oxidised layer that lighter polishes can't get through. The CutMax cuts that layer away efficiently and exposes the undamaged paint underneath. The result is often striking: colours that looked dull and faded show the full depth and brilliance of the original paint again after correction.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn \u003cstrong\u003enew-car reconditioning\u003c\/strong\u003e the CutMax comes into play too, when the factory paint shows heavy orange peel. A wet sand with P1000 levels the surface, and the CutMax brings the gloss back. This job takes experience, because the clear coat on new vehicles is often thinner than on older paint systems — a paint thickness reading before sanding is a must, so you don't break through the clear coat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn \u003cstrong\u003epartial PPF wraps\u003c\/strong\u003e on front ends the CutMax sometimes comes in indirectly: the paint under the film gets polished before the wrap to clear up any defects that would show through the clear film. The CutMax removes scratches and swirls fast and effectively, and the finishing polish after it leaves a flawlessly smooth base for the film to bond to.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhere the CutMax hits its limits: on scratches that reach down into the base coat or the primer, no polish helps — here you need to respray the affected spot. The CutMax also can't replace clear coat that's already peeling over a large area. In cases like that it's better to be honest with the customer about the limits of polishing than to promise a result you can't reach. Honest communication builds the customer's trust over the long run far more than a cosmetic compromise that shows again after a few weeks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCutting compound comparison — CutMax vs. UltimateCut vs. EX 05-05\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the SONAX PROFILINE range there are three products in play for heavy defect removal: CutMax, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ultimatecut-schleif-politur\"\u003eUltimateCut\u003c\/a\u003e and \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ex-05-05-schleif-politur-heavy-cut\"\u003eEX 05-05\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eUltimateCut (6+\/3)\u003c\/strong\u003e has the highest cut in the whole range — even higher than the CutMax. It's reserved for the most extreme cases: the worst weathering, P800 sanding marks, massive orange peel. The gloss level of 3\/5 shows that after the UltimateCut a finishing step is definitely needed — often even a two-step finish. The UltimateCut is the tool for specialists, not for daily use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eEX 05-05 (5\/5)\u003c\/strong\u003e sits on the other side of the spectrum: the same cut and same gloss as the Cut+Finish, but with a different formula that works better on certain paint systems. It's the alternative for anyone who doesn't get the result they want with the Cut+Finish — for example on particularly hard ceramic clear coats, where the EX series has traditionally been strong.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eCutMax (6\/4)\u003c\/strong\u003e sits between these extremes: more cut than the EX 05-05, but a clearly better gloss than the UltimateCut. For the bulk of heavy defect-correction work — wet sanding from P1000, deep scratches, heavy weathering — the CutMax is the optimal choice, because it gets the defect removal done in one step and keeps the finishing step after it short.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the CutMax — bottle sizes and workflow recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CutMax\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml, 1000 ml and 5 litres. The 250 ml bottle is enough for several complete vehicle corrections and is the ideal entry point for private users and smaller outfits. The 1000 ml bottle is the standard size for shops with regular polishing demand. The 5-litre container is aimed at high-throughput businesses — the per-litre price is lowest here, and the wide opening makes it easier to dispense with a dosing bottle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the best polishing workflow we recommend the combination: CutMax as the cutting compound on the rotary, followed by the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PerfectFinish\u003c\/a\u003e as the finishing step on the dual-action machine, and finally \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e for degreasing and result check. This three-step combo covers the whole defect-correction process — from heavy cutting to a finish that's ready to seal. Anyone who wants to lay down a long-term sealant afterwards already has the perfect base with Prepare.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn shelf life and storage: like all cutting compounds, the CutMax can separate slightly if it sits for a while. Shake the bottle thoroughly before every use until the consistency is homogeneous and creamy again. Store the product frost-free and sealed — frozen compound loses its abrasive structure and is useless after that. Stored properly, the CutMax keeps its full performance over the whole shelf life.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA closing practical note on the \u003cstrong\u003ecost-effective use\u003c\/strong\u003e in the shop: the CutMax has a higher per-litre price than consumer polishes from the DIY store, but the product consumption per vehicle is much lower. The concentrated formula means you get by with three to four dots per section — a 250 ml bottle lasts for several complete vehicle corrections. Measured by result per euro spent, the CutMax is therefore more economical than cheaper alternatives that need double or triple the product and still take more passes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53520611148111,"sku":"D1-SNX-2461410","price":19.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53520611180879,"sku":"D1-SNX-2463000","price":58.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":53520611213647,"sku":"D1-SNX-2465000","price":229.43,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53520611246415,"sku":"D1-SNX-2461410_2","price":39.78,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53520611279183,"sku":"D1-SNX-2461410_3","price":59.67,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520611311951,"sku":"D1-SNX-2463000_2","price":117.78,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520611344719,"sku":"D1-SNX-2463000_3","price":176.67,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur.png?v=1730650207"}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/collections\/sonax-kaufen.png?v=1718093175","url":"https:\/\/detailing1.pl\/en\/collections\/sonax.oembed?page=2","provider":"Detailing1","version":"1.0","type":"link"}